Fab1 Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Hi guys,its been around 6 months that I did my bearings and put up the post. What you didn't know is I wanted to see what the results after 6 months use would be without pumping grease into the bearing buddies would be and share some tips along the way. I wanted to know,Did water get in to the bearings?after dunking for that period of time. As always I have chocked the opposing trailer wheel,jacked the trailer up and placed it on a safety stand as I'll remove the wheel and hub as an assembly. The next thing I like to do is crawl underneath the trailer and have a good look at the inside of the wheel and seal.If the wheel has grease splattered all over the place and the grease seal is cracked/split and pouring out grease all over the place with emulsified grease everywhere the bearings will have been subjected to water ingress(more on that later).Not to bad. I now remove the electrical tape holding my bearing buddie cover and cover removing the bearing buddie itself with gentle taps with a rubber mallet as I spin the wheel striking the buddie evenly around its circumference. Here I've prepared a bucket with a shopping bag to sit my wheel on for cleanup after removalMore on that later. Know its time to remove the split pin,castellated nut,washer and outer bearing along with the wheel assembly.Im using multi grips here for the lot. The stub axle after the wheel assembly has been removed. Here I have the wheel sitting on my bucket.I stuff rag into the hub and then using the handle of a screwdriver and hammer I tap the bearing and stainless ring out directly into the shopping bag removing the bulk of the old grease from the hub along with it from the hub.no mess no fuss I use a recycled bottle a parts brush and some mesh to clean and drain my bearings in solvent The hub,wheel and stub axle after a clean I inspect 5 things on the stub axle. Those are the thread,the bearings running surface,the seals running surface and the rear bearings shoulder where it meets the rear seal for cracking. I'm looking for bluing of the stub axle which indicates the bearings got overheated at some stage,scores,gouges,pitting etc. My stub axle passed the test other than very minor pitting on the seal running surface that was rectified with light emery paper. To those guys towing heavy rigs this is where your stub axle can crack but on the underside at the 6 o,clock position. Cleaning up minor pitting to stub axle using emery cloth. Inspecting the races and bearings for pitting,bluing indicating water ingress and overheating.The races and bearing rollers want to be perfectly smooth like mine and they can be re-used. Grease seal has been cleaned,checked for damage and can be re-used if in good condition also. I have learnt from this exercise that if you change your bearings correctly using good quality grease with bearing buddies allowing the bearings to cool for a few minutes prior to launching after along trip that you don't need to pump grease into the buddies after the initial fill. Hopefully some of you found this helpful and interesting. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsswordfisherman Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Even I found that interesting Fab! Thanks for the effort you put in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sydney south Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Very good post for those looking at doing their own maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooker435 Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Love it Fabian, thanks for sharing really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.. Regards, Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullatt Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I don't get as involved on these forums as many others, but may I say .............Fab, you are an absolute gem. Your advice/tips/help to one and all is indeed a credit to you my friend.You are indeed a very caring individual. Well done mate. Keep those tips coming.........love ém! regards Dave (Mullatt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 Even I found that interesting Fab! Thanks for the effort you put in No problem Donna, I'm glad you found it as interesting as I did. Very good post for those looking at doing their own maintenance.That's why I post,to help those interested in learning something useful with the pleasure and satisfaction of Diy. Love it Fabian, thanks for sharing really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.. Regards, Nathan No worries mate. I don't get as involved on these forums as many others, but may I say .............Fab, you are an absolute gem. Your advice/tips/help to one and all is indeed a credit to you my friend.You are indeed a very caring individual. Well done mate. Keep those tips coming.........love ém! regards Dave (Mullatt) Your kind words are much appreciated Dave.If we all helped each other out a little more than we do the world would be a better place.When I do something I think is worth posting I will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigma Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Great stuff Fab. Like Mullatt, I don't post much but found this very interesting and especially helpful as I'm about to service my own bearings. I don't think my trailers has "bearing buddies" and to be honest I don't even know what they're used for. Are they a must? It appears you know your trailers, and I would like to ask a question. I have a 1999/2000 model Dunbier Quintrex trailer. I was thinking of changing the wheels to something fancier like you have in the pics. How do I find out what stud pattern (like 5x100 or 5x 110 etc...) I have in case I was to find an odd car wheel on ebay or gumtree. Really appreciate the effort that you have put in for this....keep them coming Cheers Dave (Sigma) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) Here's some info that may help. Axle length is measured from tip to tip of bare Axle Specifications 39mm Round Axles - 750kg maximum operating weight. Runs LM (Holden) bearings. 40mm Square Axles - 1000kg maximum operating weight. Runs LM (Holden) bearings. 45mm Square Axles - 1400kg maximum operating weight. Runs SL (Ford) bearings. ________________________________________________________________________________ Bearings Bearings are used to match the type of axle you have NOT the type of stud pattern you have. Eg. If you have Ford wheels, but your axle is Holden, then you need hubs with a Ford stud pattern and Holden bearings. LM (Holden bearings) suit 39mm Round & 40 mm Square Axles · Outer (small) bearings # LM 11910 - Cup # LM 11949 - Bearing · Inner (large) bearings # LM 67010 - Cup # LM 67048 - Bearing SL "Slimline" (Ford bearings) suit 45mm Square Axles · Outer (small) bearings # L 12710 - Cup # L 12749 - Bearing · Inner (large) bearings # L 68110 - Cup # L 68149 - Bearing The best way to work out what bearings you need is to measure the flat part of your axle stub where the bearings sit. ________________________________________________________________________________ Stud Patterns / PCD (for all hubs / hubdrums / hubdiscs) Stud patterns are worked out using the PCD measurement. This is the distance from one side of the stud circle to the other (see picture below). Many wheels from different makes and models have the same PCD, ie. even though a stud pattern is referred to as 'Ford', it also matches Mitsubishi, Mazda, Toyota etc. Ford - 1/2" UNF studs - 5 Studs - PCD 114.3mm - 68mm from stud to stud Holden HT / Early Holden - 7/16" UNF studs - 5 Studs - PCD 108mm - 65mm from stud to stud Holden HQ - 7/16" UNF studs - 5 Studs - PCD 120.6mm - 72mm from stud to stud Commodore - 7/16" UNF studs - 5 Studs - PCD 120mm - 72mm from stud to stud Gemini - 7/16" UNF studs - 4 Studs - PCD 100mm - not available in braked kits Toyota - 7/16" UNF studs - 4 Studs - PCD 114.3mm - not available in braked kits Mini - 7/16" UNF studs - 4 Studs - PCD 101.6mm - 5 1/2" hub - not available in braked kits Landcruiser 80 series - 1/2" UNF studs - 6 Studs - PCD 139.7mm - 70mm between studs Landcruiser 100 series - 9/16" UNF studs - 5 Studs - PCD ________________________________________________________________________________ Chrome Mag & Lug Nuts Available sizes: Lug Nuts - 1/2", 7/16", 12 x 1.25mm Mag Nuts - 1/2", 7/16", 12 x 1.25mm, 12mm x 1.5mm ________________________________________________________________________________ Why use bearing buddies with your hubs? Because water enters your grease & bearings under normal conditions, and without bearing buddies, air pockets are created within the hub, and get hot and expand. As you drive down the boat ramp, the bearings enter the cold water. The air and grease inside the hubs shrinks and sucks in water. The problem with this is that the water then contaminates the grease, turning it into a hard, gritty, muddy muck. This will DESTROY your bearings. And no one wants to be stuck on the side of the road, in the middle of nowhere, wishing they had Bearing Buddies. When using bearing buddies, drive to the boat ramp, pump grease into the bearing buddies until it expels grease out the rear seal. It is spring loaded so it keeps a positive pressure and is solid with grease inside your hub, which in turn helps to stop water entering. Bearings will still need maintenance, but just not as often, the savings you get back from bearing buddies, in grease and labour, will pay for itself in one sevice. Cheers. Edited June 20, 2016 by Fab1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigma Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Wow Fab...thanks so much for the info. Once again, thanks a million for your help.....really, really appreciate it mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Zod Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Fab what I forgot to ask in the other post, did any water get into the bearings after six months prior to you cleaning them. Great post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 Fab what I forgot to ask in the other post, did any water get into the bearings after six months prior to you cleaning them. Great post. Not a drop mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankS Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Fed1. Over the 20 odd years that I have been involved in Fishing forums I have read countless numbers of posters making posts about wheel bearing maitenence and such. May I say, never have I seen a better illustration and detailed report as what you have now put up. Your detail and photos are next to none and you have covered all the points that need to be coverer without writing a novel about it. You have even helped a old veteran such as myself, and I will bookmark your post for future reference. Thanks. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Fed1. Over the 20 odd years that I have been involved in Fishing forums I have read countless numbers of posters making posts about wheel bearing maitenence and such. May I say, never have I seen a better illustration and detailed report as what you have now put up. Your detail and photos are next to none and you have covered all the points that need to be coverer without writing a novel about it. You have even helped a old veteran such as myself, and I will bookmark your post for future reference. Thanks. Frank Thanks for your kind words Frank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Butt Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Terrific post mate thanks for all the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyy Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thanks, that's awesome ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Incredible Hull Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Just wanted to point out, if you have a braked trailer you will need to undo the wheel bolts and remove the wheel, to access the nuts to undo the brake caliper in order to remove the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big Neil Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Fabian, you're a genius. The way you describe the process, with appropriate photos to accompany...even idiots like me can follow. Cheers, BN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fab1 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 9 hours ago, Martyy said: Thanks, that's awesome ! Glad to help. 8 hours ago, The Incredible Hull said: Just wanted to point out, if you have a braked trailer you will need to undo the wheel bolts and remove the wheel, to access the nuts to undo the brake caliper in order to remove the hub. Yes,correct.And don't forget to service your calipers. 7 hours ago, big Neil said: Fabian, you're a genius. The way you describe the process, with appropriate photos to accompany...even idiots like me can follow. Cheers, BN I'm far from a genius and certainly no Einstein.Im glad the photos are helpful as it's not quite the same as video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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