Outboard towing position

[Raymondo]

Afternoon all,

Picked up my boat this morning after a re power. Honda BF100. Fibreglass hull.

In your opinion, what is the best way to lock outboard in place whilst in transit ?

Outboard must be moderately tilted to allow road clearance. A transom saver device is not an option due to hull overhang from trailer. In the past I have used a block of wood.

Is there a better option?

Does it need to be locked?

Can the tilt ram handle transit by itself with out damage?

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[Guest Guest123456789]

I use tie down straps as recommended by the dealer. Similar to the straps I use to secure the boat to the trailer. Works a treat. My outboard has 'shallow water mode' which tilts it up slightly to give the prop sufficient clearance on the road but not too angled as to put too much load through the transom.

[Guest Guest123456789]

Here is a pic if that helps, it's just wrapped around the outboard and fastened to the trailer.

[JonD]

I've towed my boat from Narooma to the NT (15000km round trip) with my engine trimmed up and using the flip down locks on the engine. This was on a yamaha f70 4 stroke. I asked two seperate dealers if I should use the aftermarket plastic wedges that hold a he engine at less of an angle and both told me they had never had an engine back with any problem from using the built in lock. I've just returned from a trip to the Daintree ( far north QLD) with the engine up it the same position.

If I was towing with a bigger heavier outboard I would invest in one of the adjustable supports that transfer some of the weight to the trailer ( page 78 of the whitworths catalog Deluxe outboard motor support $43.95)

Jon

[oz_brett]

Hi Raymondo

First of al can I say Congrats on the new motor, you will develop a love for your Honda like not possible with other motors!

I have the BF150 & from new I was always told the lock up position was all you needed but to me that wasn't enough My boat being alloy I got a bracket welded to the transom to support a motor support bar (I think what you called it"transom saver")

With your situation having a glass boat I would be considering a similar technique but modifying the transom saver to rest into the bung holes using a block of rubber so that there is an even pressure against the transom. As this would not be locked in to place you would have to strap the leg of the motor down so that it didn't bounce & release the transom saver.

Cheers;

Brett

[kingfishbig]

It depends on the brand. Some can be towed using the built in lock but with some makes such as Suzuki the lock isn't strong enough. I'd check the manual and with the dealer. I wouldn't tow just using the hydraulic rams.

[haynze]

Im pretty new to boating and have only taken my boat out half a dozen times. I have always travelled with the locks down with my Suzuki 50hp 4ST. I have an aluminium boat and I leave it in that position when the boat is in the driveway also. It is only a few minutes to the boat ramp for me so never really gave it any thought but after reading this I had no idea about travelling with it down. Will be watching this post closely lol.

[Raymondo]

Thanks a million guys/gals for the help. Not sure what ill do.

For now the timber block with slight ram pressure on it will do the trick, its even what the dealer recommended.

Hats off to you JonD, 15000 k return trip, that's epic. One day

Edited August 25, 2016 by Raymondo

[Ric001]

The issue is not so much the motor supporting its own weight as removing the pressure off the fibreglass transom. I've seen some transom savers that adjust to hull overhang, it just depends on how much.

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[recurve]

I brought a SuzukiDF115 and put it on a Surtees 5.5. When you raise the motor the bait board stops it going all the way up so I can't engage the locks. Dealer said it did not need them. Have always towed with engine up and a flag. Don't think any risk of failure or damage on plate boats as have a beefy bracket as part of the boat.

My dealer is pretty knowledgeable and has a very good rep. He reckons no worries.

So far no issue. I was told years ago that the locks are for mechanics when they dis-engage the hydraulics and not for travelling or stowing.

[Raymondo]

Hey Recurve, yea the locks on the outboard cradle are for service use only. I don't like the idea of relying solely on the hydraulic ram. I've personally witnessed rams failing.

I'll have to look into the transom supports Ric001 has mentioned.

Thanks again guys.

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[tackleberry]

Hi Raymondo

First of al can I say Congrats on the new motor, you will develop a love for your Honda like not possible with other motors!

I have the BF150 & from new I was always told the lock up position was all you needed but to me that wasn't enough My boat being alloy I got a bracket welded to the transom to support a motor support bar (I think what you called it"transom saver")

With your situation having a glass boat I would be considering a similar technique but modifying the transom saver to rest into the bung holes using a block of rubber so that there is an even pressure against the transom. As this would not be locked in to place you would have to strap the leg of the motor down so that it didn't bounce & release the transom saver.

Cheers;

Brett

i will definitely second this and i only have a fuel injected BF40

[takethebait]

Im pretty new to boating and have only taken my boat out half a dozen times. I have always travelled with the locks down with my Suzuki 50hp 4ST. I have an aluminium boat and I leave it in that position when the boat is in the driveway also. It is only a few minutes to the boat ramp for me so never really gave it any thought but after reading this I had no idea about travelling with it down. Will be watching this post closely lol.

Haynze, I've got the same motor and I used to do the same - towing with the locks down cause that's what Dad always did with his boat. But in the manual it states very clearly that the locks should never be used while towing. Like kingfishbig said, with some makes such as Suzuki the lock isn't strong enough.

So now I've just been towing mine as low down as possible, but I'm going to pick up a motor support for any long trips.

[Foghorn]

Get an outboard support stay, clips into trailer and onto outboard, spring loaded, adjustable, great bit of gear.

[Mullatt]

100% what Foghorn said...I have a BF30 and use this bracket! Its brilliant

[jeffb5.8]

I have a 2015 Etec 115hp and I'm pretty sure I was told to tow with the locks on.

[takethebait]

I bought the same bracket this afternoon Mullatt. I figured since I didn't catch any fish this morning, I should spend more money on the boat!

[Mullatt]

I bought the same bracket this afternoon Mullatt. I figured since I didn't catch any fish this morning, I should spend more money on the boat!

Ha ha, I think we all tend to that a bit mate..........I reckon it makes us feel better after a not so good day on the water eh!

[dan88j]

I've got a Suzuki df115 on the back of a 575c bar crusher, I just put a block of timber in there and out slight pressure from the ram. Plumbers orange flag on the prop and away we go!

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[TheCount]

+1 for the 10x2 block of wood and pinch it down.

Great shock absorption and it floats - you know what I mean

TC.

[will_l]

I've towed my boat from Narooma to the NT (15000km round trip) with my engine trimmed up and using the flip down locks on the engine. This was on a yamaha f70 4 stroke. I asked two seperate dealers if I should use the aftermarket plastic wedges that hold a he engine at less of an angle and both told me they had never had an engine back with any problem from using the built in lock. I've just returned from a trip to the Daintree ( far north QLD) with the engine up it the same position.

If I was towing with a bigger heavier outboard I would invest in one of the adjustable supports that transfer some of the weight to the trailer ( page 78 of the whitworths catalog Deluxe outboard motor support $43.95)

Jon

+1, for my yamaha 70 2 stroke i just use the flip down locks. Seems to work fine (even on an old fiberglass transom)

[VViCKiD]

Use an old boat roller. U wedge it where the hydraulic axle that adjusts ur trim is. Yamaha sell something very similar for a ridiculous price

[Raymondo]

Thanks for all the opinions guys/gals. I've upgraded the timber block to the same timber block wrapped in a carpet off cut (marine carpet, it's the deluxe model) Works a treat.

Would prefer a transom saver device but overhang on trailer wont allow it. Anyhow thanks again for your input.

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[zmk1962]

Catching up on old posts as I have been away for a while.  I have a 200HP and a 15HP Aux on the back of a fibreglass hull - so my experience may be different to that of an alloy hull.  I hear a lot about transom savers - but my understanding of physics says that the forces that are exerted on transom by the weight of the motor on a road trip are MINISCULE compared to the forces that would be exerted on the transom by the motor powering the craft through a swell.... any harsh bumps on the road are cushioned by spring of the trailer ... on the water, there is no cushioning - the power from the motor on the transom punches the craft through swell, you go from no load to maximum load if you porpoise between waves... the strain on the transom is at greatest when on the water and under way.  

So if you are powered with motors within the limits of your hull specifications then weight should not be an issue.  My main concern when towing is making sure I have the motors clear of the bitumen ... and when underway on water in having the 15hp Aux up out of the water. 

In the past I used the little trim down lock on the Aux, but that broke in a particularly bumpy ride on the water coming back from Browns. So I designed and welded up a "H frame" s/steel support for the Aux which I can operate from the stern (see pictures attached) and I use this when on the water and when towing.  For the 200HP when towing I made up a chock from a piece of leftover 50mm aluminum tube. The chock has notches that slot into steal rods pushed through tilt trim holes - I use R clips on string (so they can't be lost) to keep the rods in place. Its the same concept as the block of wood but it can't fall out on the road.  Anyway, sharing as the above set up has worked for me for 12+ years.

Cheers Zoran

Edited October 29, 2016 by zmk1962

[SeaHuffKing]

Use a trailer roller over the ram, if you look online under "Mywedge" you will see what i mean, pity they are not available here, Yamaha make one so they must know something (but at an expensive price). Dont use a transom saver bracket as if the boat moves at all on the trailer, the weight shift all transfers to the motor leg.