• Announcements

    • mrsswordfisherman

      NEW LIKE BUTTON   12/27/2017

      All posts now have a few reaction buttons Go ahead and like, hahaha, sad, confused etc on posts please ensure you keep posting and NOT just liking Enjoy!!

Captain Spanner

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Captain Spanner

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

425 profile views
  1. Livebait tank with livebait tank

    A few questions. Does your livebait tank pump water in and overflow water out or is it just a tank with an aerator and you change the water. How big is the tank? Is it overcrowded? Does the water get warm in the sun? I have had squid eat yakkas and slimies in the tank and also had yakkas and slimies kill squid in the tank but they normally play nice. Like Omally says, Is your live bait tank large enough to put a fence (some type of barrier) in it to seperate the squid and fish? The water should be able to flow through/around/under/over it. So any mesh or board or anything might do. Keep in mind the fish will still need enough room so swim around.
  2. Does anyone know why Travacalm original is sold out everywhere?

    I don't know the story with the Travacalm, I haven't used them for years. We now use ETs Sea sickness pills. They are now done by Nile Compounding who do post them. I think if you have a read you will find they are similar, we just prefer the ETs.
  3. Nice one, It sounds like there was quite a bit going on in your gutter. Do you have any more trips planned this week?
  4. Great fish. It looks like you have started to figure out the beach. Did you get many other bites/fish/rays last night?
  5. Scumbag in Botany Bay

    They do have a tendency to get pinched. We generally stay in the area of ours and check and move them every hour or two. Another thing that does happen occasionally that people dont always think of is that they drift with the current in areas of strong tidal flow, especially if the water is deeper than you think and the rope isn't long enough. In areas like Towra they do get pinched and ropes and floats do get run over and traps lost but if you don't have a long enough rope the float can also have enough buoyancy to drag the trap and once the water is deep enough that the trap isnt sitting in the bottom it takes off pretty quickly
  6. Keeping crabs fresh for Christmas Day

    Im not an authority on this sorry, I've never kept them in a slurry for that long but i imagine it would want to be straight sea water and not diluted with melted freshwater ice. Do we have any pro guys on here that can shed some light? You could probably go a crab depth of sea water in the bottom and bombard it with frozen bottles to keep the temp down. I just get worried that the water will eventually get into the meat if it is soaking in it.
  7. Keeping crabs fresh for Christmas Day

    If you are going to eat them cooked cold anyway then i would cook them straight away, let them cool/let steam and drips out, then wrap them in in glad wrap so air/water can't get at them. Eskies stay alot colder than the fridge which is regulated at about 4 degrees. This is what i would do because i have good eskies and a freezer with uncountable bottles. I would put them in a good esky that is in a cool, permanently shady spot and lock it if people are going to want to keep opening the lid and look at them. I would fill the bottom half of the esky with frozen bottles (at least a couple of hours before the crabs are going in), put the crabs in, fill the rest of the esky with frozen bottles and close the lid. I know that my esky can go the distance for 3 days with this type of application so its ok. If you are going to use ice you want to have the crabs on some type of bridge, frozen bottles, upside down dish rack etc. to keep them out of the water when the ice has melted. I know some guys leave the bung of the esky out so the water can drip out and keep topping the esky up with bags of ice each day so that way the crabs are buried in the ice and there is much less risk of them ending up in water. Once again they should be up off the floor of the esky.
  8. Fitting A Portable Fuel Tank As A Spare

    Personally i would not want to be undoing those bits at sea to reconnect another fuel tank to drive home. Unless you can get an easier connection fitted so you are only swapping a clip but i'm not sure how that works with fuel flow in your motor. I would be more inclined to take more jerry cans or use your portable tank as a jerry. If you do not want to pick it up and pour it look at getting a good jiggle siphon to get it from the spare tank to the main tank. It is likely that when you go mucking around with those hose connections you will get some spillage and possibly some issues re-priming the line to get started. I would also be very surprised if the conditions (sea and location) that you needed to perform that fuel tank conversion in were convenient.
  9. Eagle rays

    If we are fishing for mulloway i don't use true circles, i use gamakatsu octopus circles. People will argue that they are no better than standard octopus hooks but i disagree. They do get more gut hooks than a true circle but definitely less than an normal octopus hook. True circle hooks i use Owner Inline Circles or Mutu Circles but not for Mulloway. If you are specifically targeting the rays then you could argue you need a heavier gauge hook because they can crush them with their mouth but i have only seen it a handful of times and they crushed it shut, not open. A lighter gauge hook like the Octopus Circles will penetrate easier and are very strong for their gauge. You just need to make sure you only just put the circle hook through the tip of the bait and allow the ray time to swallow the bait. Then just gradually wind on the pressure.
  10. Eagle rays

    The crushed barb will make it easier to get out if you can grab it but it still wont prevent it from getting stuck down his throat to begin with. The circle hook will hopefully have a better chance of setting in the hard part of the opening of his mouth and not catching in his throat. If you are in Bunbury and there are Mulloway where you are fishing then i would specifically target Mulloway and you will catch just as many Rays but at least you'll be ready for the Mulloway and be learning as you go. You will already be spending the hours on the beach.
  11. Downrigger weights

    Easier to wind up, less strain on everything, less painful to drop on your foot. Smaller visual impact and probably noise if you think any of that stuff matters.
  12. Eagle rays

    Personally i wouldn't target them but i understand why you want to. If you are intending on releasing them then you should use a single circle hook to make removal easier as the rays will suck the hooks down their throat like a vaccum cleaner. I would suggest you keep the ray in the water and use a dehooker like the shark guys use so you do not have the get too close to the ray and muck around with pliers. The dehookers are basically a stick with a strong metal "S" shaped (blunt) hook on the end. You pull the line taught with one hand and push slide the dehooker down the leader until it engages in the gape of the hook. Then give a short sharp push to try to dislodge the hook. If it is too difficult or he has swallowed the hook just cut it off as close to his mouth as is safe and possible. Be careful of his tail at all times. And obviously do not gaff them at all as you are releasing them. If you use a heavier leader it will be easier to handle the ray to get the hooks out. I would fish at least 20lb line but preferably more like 50 braid and alot of it (at least 300m). Off the beach you will easily get spooled on a big one. Keep in mind that these guys have soft flesh and when the line is under alot of tension it can cut them as it gets pulled across their face or wing or back, especially on the leader or when the line flips them over during the fight. We catch them quite alot fishing for jewies and you often get spooled. I like to use 50lb leader for jewies off breakwalls and beaches with rocks so i fish with 65lb braid so that when a ray or shark has my whole spool (300m) out on me and i grab the spool i have a much better chance of it snapping at the other end and not losing all of my braid (both annoying as you have to have a spare spool or reel with you and expensive to replace).
  13. Slimies & Yakkas vs. Sweep etc

    I think yakkas and slimies are probably more popular because they are readily accessible and handle heavy current and being slow trolled. It is also about maximising your chances on what you think the fish would prefer. Fish will eat fish but they often prefer certain types. I would pick a slimy, over a small yakka over a large yakka or sweep or mado out of habit. I would try whatever you can get and whatever is around. Kingies are often following schools of sweep and mados around the bait grounds, probably because they feed on them.
  14. Exactly what is meant by ‘fresh’ bait anyway

    I wouldn't be buying any squid to use as bait that has come into contact with freshwater, including the ice slurry you are talking about as it is extremely unlikely the slurry is made from saltwater. I would suggest finding a good bait shop that sells frozen hawkesbury prawns by in the 1kg bags or bigger. Keep in mind alot of the "fresh" prawns and bait at the bait shop and fish shop is often "already thawed" bait and has been frozen. Drop the frozen 1kg bag on the bench or floor to loosen them up and take out what you want on the day and seal it back up. You may want to keep them in an airtight container as prawns often spike holes in their bag. You can do similar with IQF pilchards. Salted pilchards also keep happily in the fridge, but do smell if not packed carefully. So keep them in the vegetable crisper so as not to contaminate the real food in the fridge.
  15. Newbie - Reel Question

    It is highly likely that your drag will have a clicker in it permanently unless it has broken. It will be click no matter how tight or loose the drag is. The clicker will most likely be a tiny metal flap on a spring on the underside of the spool, there is a spiky cog on the base of the spool shaft that the little metal flap will click over and make a "ting, ting, ting" noise. The volume will depend on the reel. I would strongly suggest that you are watching your rod to see if the tip bounces indicating bites. Unless you have something else you need to be doing you are better off holding the rod. If you are trying to fish the method of light drag for the fish to swallow the bait then the idea is minimal resistance on the bait. If you are leaving you rod unattended in the holder you should definitely have the drag backed down so you don't lose your rod (unless you have a serious rod holder). You should still watch your rod because if you get a bite and don't see it you might be waiting for nothing with no bait. Do not strike just because you have had or are getting a bite. Often with livies and big baits the fish grab the bait, swim a little bit and re-grip or turn it around to swallow it. So i would wait until the fish has steady momentum or is accelerating before attempting to set the hook. You can carefully pick the rod up and point the tip at the fish to minimise resistance. When you decide to set the hook i would not strike back aggressively, i would have the rod lowered and either quickly do the drag up the 2.5 turns or grab the spool. Either of these tricks will cause the rod to load up with pressure as the belly is pulled out of the line. As the rod loads up, smoothly raise the rod to increase the pressure on the fish and the hooks should find their way into something solid. If you are on the beach you can walk backwards instead of having to wind. Then you can adjust the drag quickly, remembering that if you let go of the spool it may start spinning quickly and release pressure (bad). One bonus of this method is you are less likely to rip the bait out of the fishes mouth and spook it or rip the bait off the hooks if you don't hook up. Fishing for jewies these days i use a skinny squid strip and two octopus circle hooks with plenty of hook point exposure. I have the drag set to fighting even if it is in the holder (on the beach this is a picket driven in with a mallet). Small livies same deal. Big livies i would hold the rod and have a baitrunner reel or would have the drag in fighting tension and the bail arm open and hold the line lightly with my finger, to let it go when he grabs it. Then flip the bail arm shut to strike. For kingies i would have one livebait hook through the nose of the livie and use the free spool method or a squid strip with the drag in fighting mode. Most importantly, be prepared for many many trips without a decent bite, let alone catching a fish. We don't get a decent bite or fish on a lot more trips than we do. I had about 20 trips to wanda beach before my first jewie down there and almost another 30 before the second fish. I probably had almost 150 hours fishing specifically for jewfish out of the boat before i caught my first one and that fish was because someone came out on my boat and taught me how to. Even fishing for bream and flathead most people do not catch keepers all the time.