kingfishbig

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About kingfishbig

  • Rank
    FLATHEAD
  • Birthday 05/12/1970

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    Male
  • Location
    Sydney

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  1. I like overheads in the Surf and your right there aren't many choices of rods. I have 2 Daiwa Sensor surf reds which are a bit over 11' . One is the old model which has been replaced by a slightly heavier version. The heavier one will throw around 3 -4 oz of lead and a whole pilchard quite well. There is a Crucius Synergy overhead rod which is more economically priced. Unless you are after sharks I don't think you really need a heavier rod than these. For reels I have an ABU 6500C Chrome Rocket reel, a Daiwa 7HT turbo mag and an ABU 7200C.
  2. Looks like the Yellowfin 5800 - is that right? How does it go towing (what do you tow it with)? PS: I noticed it's the 6200 on closer inspection. Let us know how it performs after more offshore trips (I am considering getting the 5800).
  3. Yes, if he is thinning it with water then that would be a hint.
  4. Polyester fiberglass resin is not very waterproof. You can get epoxy fiberglass resin but it is not compatible with most chopped strand. I think Evadure is the go. You can paint over it as well for extra protection and better appearance. Ship Shape marine paint is good for this. I think it is made by Norglass.
  5. Yes but I am not sure there will be a performance difference. The old 200 hp still has the 2 stroke advantages of torque and light weight. The main difference will be with fuel consumption, noise etc, which is not what he was asking about..
  6. "As Zoran has pointed out the current 150hp can push his boat along at 43km/hr at 3500rpm which is pretty good if you ask me". I was referring to that statement and pointing out his current motor is actually a 200 hp. Also I am not sure what the relevance of it's age in making comparisons.
  7. His current motor is actually a 200 hp. I am not sure if the age is relevant either. Even an old 2 stroke will have more useable torque than a current 4 stroke and be lighter too (albeit using a lot more fuel). Remember too that older boats weren't designed with 4 strokes in mind and that's why the Etecs are often favoured for re-powers.
  8. If the wires are pinched and cut as you say then isn't that the likely source of the problem? Why did you use an old plug rather than just reconnecting the one already on the trailer? That way you are just changing one thing at a time (makes it easier to identify the fault). Also how old is the trailer? It is common for the wiring to corrode after 10 years or so and you are better off replacing the lot in that case (if there is no obvious source of the problem) - or do what I did and get a removable light board.
  9. In the original post he was contemplating what back cruncher described, ie going from a 200 hp 2s to a 150 hp 4s. So it is a very valid point. Ie a big drop in hp coupled with the lower torque of a 4s (and extra weight) may lead to disappointing performance..
  10. Yes, I was thinking along those lines, but it is a long time since I have worked on the brakes myself. I had another look at the trailer this afternoon and after a bit of a think. I gave the couple a taps with a big sledge hammer I conveniently had lying around and it does move a bit. It apparently has a spring inside to give a dampening effect. The spring would seem to be quite a powerful one (coupling is rated to 2000 kg) so perhaps it is normal not to be moved by hand or a light hammer.
  11. I haven't done it for a while Fab1 but if my memory serves me it is quite fiddly getting the calipers back on with the brake pads if you remove them completely. So if you are not changing the bearings or pads it will be a lot easier to clean and lube the slides in situ if it's possible (I think I will give it a go). Likewise not having to move the boat and jacking it up.
  12. Disk mechanical override or in other words rotor and caliper and cable.
  13. Yes I'll try what you suggested to free up the coupling, then see if the brakes still drag. The arms seem fine on the calipers, but aren't the calipers meant to move also? Ie there is a sliding arrangement through the use of sleeves around the two bolts. It looks like they may have frozen up on one side. Do you think I might be able to re lubricate them without taking the wheel or calipers off?
  14. Perhaps Raiders could help me with this. My trailer brakes are dragging (one side). I have a mechanical override system. I realise there could be a number of causes but I noticed that the override coupling is not sliding so this would be the first place to start. I can't free it up though, I have tried force (hammering the end) but it won't budge. There is a large nut on boat end - has anyone tried undoing that? Or any other suggestions?
  15. The Shakespeare Ugly stick has been around since the 1970's and are a very tough rod. The have a fiberglass tip and graphite/ mix lower down. Others have copied the idea eg Silstar.