552Evo

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About 552Evo

  • Rank
    MACKEREL
  • Birthday 04/18/1970

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria
  1. Hi seasponge, if this is any help, basically the end result is that your bow loop that you connect your winch hook to has to line up at the correct height in relation to the winch roller. On my boat the bow loop sits just below the roller above the winch, about 50mm below the roller from memory. That way the winch is pulling the bow hoop down onto the winch roller. The rest of the rollers should make the boat sit even and level at the lowest adjustment which should make Launching and retrieving easier. Thats my opinion,,, Get a few opinions to satisfy yourself. Jamie
  2. Sorry for the late reply (2 weeks later) yes thanks Berleyguts, I've tried that with my jockey wheel at full extension and the front wheels are well and truly still gripped onto the ground. So with a ratchet wheel I'm guessing it will be the same situation. Its a great upper body work out heaving the BMT in and out and sideways I'll give it that. Its just it actually is dangerous doing it solo if it's wet or the ground is dewey early in the morning. I've slipped once in an early morning and came within a whisker of smashing my face on the drawer bar, because all the upper body force to lug the BMT and slippery concrete don't mix.
  3. I've got a similar issue trying to manoeuvre my 6.2M fibreglass BMT into an alcove in besides my garage. The trailer is dual axle, so trying to perform on the spot turns is impossible because one axle pivots and the other axle drags. Ive thought about ratchet and electric jockey wheels but I reckon they would lose traction given the amount of drive required in my situation. But I'm happy to be convinced otherwise. They may well work in your situation. I've also thought about a method to use a pair of low slung 4 wheeled car trolleys on one axle/pair of wheels. ( But the hassle of inserting them and removing them would not make it worthwhile for me.) Maybe that's what others have described above, I don't know what the proper name for them is. Maybe it's easier to upgrade the house ha ha ha ( not funny I know )
  4. I'd go with John McEnroe on that one 🤣😂
  5. Isn't that style of transducer designed so it pivots (if it hits debris) from the stainless screw and rubber washer area ? So it wouldn't matter if the L bracket is secure, the transducer head would still pivot up ?
  6. So as per the instructions, the L shaped bracket ( pivot arm ) is meant to be secured in place, that would prevent the kick up you experienced.
  7. Thanks Luke, My boats a Centre Console so I've got a switch panel on the dash/helm where I grab power and have a dedicated switch for the "deck lights" it's even got a little name tag on the switch. Re blue light : because my deck is white I guess any colour light will be reflected well as you see in the photos but put it this way, I am going to mount a small overhead white led light on my TTop so I can tie up rigs at night. It's not enough light to play with fishing line at night for me ha ha. From memory the kit I got comes with a remote that you might be able to turn on and off with as well as change colours or have a light show so it may negate the need for a switch but I didn't want to have a lost remote in the future that's why I hard wired the strip to a switch and left out the remote.
  8. You know looking at the 3rd photo, is that hole in the L shaped bracket threaded ? If it is, I'm guessing that would allow fine adjustments of the transducer angle.
  9. I got mine from eBay. Not expensive but I got 2 rolls of the led strip about 5m long each. It has adhesive backing but my boat is fibreglass so I installed each length under each gunnel and dobbed silicone about each 0.5m to keep it in place. The strip is fully enclosed in some sort of clear soft rubbery material and I soldered the joins and then heat shrunk them as well The LED's I got change colour with a remote but I just leave them on blue, that suits my boat. Sorry about the odd angle of the photos it has changed the rotation after I uploaded?
  10. Most likely something (some sort of lock screw thingy) that uses the hole has fallen off. can you get a good look at the slots where the side tabs fit into ? They could be full of crud salt sand etc.
  11. Oh got it. Are the lugs part of the plastic L shaped part ? Maybe the lugs are worn ? There looks like a hole for a screw in the vertical face of the L shaped bracket in your second image, is the a screw missing or could you use that hole to screw the bracket in place ? Then you would still have the safety lift/bump action from the rubber washers.
  12. G'day Berleyguts, I've got a transducer that's similar to yours. Are the rubber washers ok ? Maybe just undo the stainless locknut and screw seen in the photo so you can pull the rubber washers out to have a better look.
  13. That's the info I would use. Nick, I had a quick look at the link you put up, is that where you purchased it from becacause I can't see any reference to a ducer being included ? Im guessing you will end up with something like a generic HSTWBL style ducer, then the instructions above from mob0103 would be a good start.
  14. G'day Nick, if you search Google that should give you an idea of the rough place to install it. The basic idea is to have it not too close to the motor, and away from any messy wash from anything under the hull. But my main bit of advice would be to install either an adjustable mount (if available for your tranny) or before mounting the tranny, in the rough area pre install a wide mounting plate first to screw the tranny to on the hull. That way if you find the first position is not working then you can reposition it on the plate without making more holes in the transom. What sort of transducer do you have and I'll try find a diagram. Jamie
  15. Like this :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk