DerekD

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About DerekD

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  1. Hi Cage, Think about what you are trying ACTUALLY trying to achieve with the swivels or knots and then fish accordingly. I buy duolock clips and matching rated swivels and combine them. I fish hardbodies and soft plastics and the following is my logic with both my bream gear (4lb) and snapper gear (15lb). On bream gear at times I use slices (5/10gm Halco twisty) and squid jigs. In this case I will use a swivel arrangement at the working end of the leader to reduce twist in the line caused by the Twistys and to allow me to quickly swap out squid jigs when working an area. If using plastics I find the arrangement a little too clunky so just tie straight to the jig head. On the snapper rod I will again use the swivel when fishing hard bodies, slices and squid jigs as it allows me to change out lures quickly without losing leader. As soon as I go plastics I don't bother with the clips and just tie straight to the lure again as it is clunky and secondly it is another item which can go wrong. My thinking on loop knots changed recently. I use them on the fly rod and a few other lures but in general I'm starting to think they are a complication which doesn't often add an advantage. When the tow point of the lure starts to put heavy pressure on the loop knot you end up with a kink or bend at that point at which time I think the loop knot will no longer act as a loop knot. I will continue to use it on some of the really light lures which won't put enough pressure on the loop to affect the line but for the other lures I will just stick with my go to uni knot. My feeling with the loop knot on the heavier lures is that it has very little impact on the action of the lure. BTW I will not use a swivel or clip arrangement between mainline and leader. I will only use them directly to the lure. For some of the lures I use a fast retrieve is required and a swivel passing through the runners is a great way to damage them if you don't spot the swivel in time. The lure complete with swivel is easier to spot. Regards, Derek
  2. There is a PLOT afoot!

    Hi Neil, As the Henry Lawson story is so old it can be found on the internet if you type in "Loaded dog pdf". In fact I found the following one which includes illustrations. https://cpb-ap-southeast-2-juc1ugur1qwqqqo4.stackpathdns.com/global2.vic.edu.au/dist/2/9930/files/2014/10/The-Loaded-Dog-1yuln5m.pdf File is about 30MB so will take about half a minute or so to download but much quicker than a trip to the library. Happy reading. Derek
  3. There is a PLOT afoot!

    Grenades, gelignite - I can see part 2 of Henry Lawson's humorous short story "The Loaded Dog" coming out in the near future. If any Fishraiders haven't read it then worth picking it up. BTW how does catch and release work with grenades or gelignite?? Do you have to give them mouth to mouth or are they only a bit punch drunk and end up swimming round in circles for a while?
  4. New kayak just added to my collection

    Hi D.F., Congrats on the new kayak. I believe there is an expression along the lines of you can't get too much of a good thing.... I see another few kayaks in your future. Now the engineer in me wants to know what the metal bar bolted to the side of the kayak is for - my first guess is a motor mount. Can you please clarify? Regards, Derek
  5. can you use a spin reel on a baitcaster rod

    Hi Flattiefisher, Early on I was going to reply to this topic with a "you could" and then follow up about size of the eye of bottom guide and the spine (preferred direction of bend bend) in the blank but then Berleyguts beat me to it and covered everything I was going to say with an excellent and detailed response. I have since been following this topic with interest but the one question which I haven't seen is "why do you want to know"? Have you inherited a baitcaster rod? Did you want something to do multiple jobs? Regards, Derek
  6. Cork handles on rods - any maintenance needed?

    Bait??? What is that??? My rod handles have gone all sparkly from the glitter scales which comes off the soft plastics and onto my hands and onto the cork. Very pretty!! I overheard two guys talking in a fishing shop "I wonder what fish ate before people invented soft plastics". That comment still puts a smile on my face.
  7. Cork handles on rods - any maintenance needed?

    I don't think so. I have had my Raider Finesse bream for about 10 years and my Raider Snapper for about 8 years. Both are fished weekly and are still in pretty good condition but they have darkened with frequent use. The cork seems pretty robust and It may be that the natural oils in the hand add to the protection. The only two things I would warn people about when buying Raider rods are: 1. Careful of the cork when screwing the seat down (you have already worked this out). 2. There can be some slippage between the two halves which becomes noticeable during frequent casting. My snapper rod does it the others don't (I own about 7 plus Raiders including the travel ones). Make sure you lock them in place pretty well. In the case of my Snapper rod I rubbed some wax on the tip of the lower half to assist with the friction lock and then I redo the wax when it starts playing up again.
  8. Rod to match with Stradic 1000 for bream

    Hi Aardvarking, I'd suggest another approach to your initial issue. Contact the people at Shimano in Taren point and then get an extra spool or two for your Stradic. You can set up one spool for ultralight and the second for your normal fishing. No leader change required. Years ago I took it to the extreme. I bought a Shimano Symetre 1500 back in the good days when it came with a spare spool. Even better was that the body for the 1500 was the same as the 2500 and the spool capacity (and handle shape) was where the difference was. I liked the reel so much that I bought another two at a really good price. I now have a glut of spools with different line ratings. The extra bodies live in the cupboard till I need to service the primary unit then one comes out. I have had to retire one but I should still get plenty of fishing with the remaining Symetres. I store the spools in baby socks to stop them banging against each other. As for the second part of your email now that you have a reel looking for a home I'd suggest looking at the Shimano Bream Finesse (I am totally biased). They do a 1-3kg as well as the 2-4kg in various lengths and well within your budget. I find them to be a very responsive rod. Regards, Derek
  9. should i get it?

    Hi Again, Before you jump in and buy I'd suggest you ask for a few recommendations based on your budget and how you think you will be fishing it. It will help you ask the right questions when the right kayak comes up. Just a few things to think about: Budget Layout (how many rod holders and where - I like my foredeck clear so I can move the rod around when fighting fish) Long (faster) or short (easier to transport) Weight (you will have to carry it or wheel it between car and water) How well it tracks (some need a rudder but a rudder can be a hindrance in shallow water) Paddle or Peddle (keeps my hands free for fishing) Freeboard (high less likely to get wet but more affected by wind) Ease of installing accessories (one mate bought a kayak with no practical access to internal storage) Capacity - your weight plus gear Seat arrangement - you will be likely sitting for hours so you want to be comfortable. Colour - I fish Sydney harbour with a lot of boat traffic so I really want to be seen - mine is bright blue but I've crossed paths with an old fart on a sailing boat that whinges I am difficult to see and should get a flag. Seriously?? If he can't spot a 4m bright blue kayak with me in a bright yellow vest and blue cap then what is a pissy little 300x300mm orange flag going to do (sorry, had to vent there). Just a little more pre-thought will make the purchase of a kayak all the more enjoyable. A friend of mine bought one recently and has realised how magical it is heading out on the water in the early morning. BTW - if you don't have a boat licence then I highly recommend having a read of the boating rules (no need to do the actual test) so you at least understand what rights you have on the water and the required safety gear. Derek
  10. should i get it?

    If you have somewhere to store it, do you have transport for it and if you are keen to get out fishing frequently then it is a definite yes. The question will be how much will you want to spend? There are $350 to $450 kayaks out there which will get you on the water or you can do like I did and buy a Hobie or similar with peddle drive. If you sell the former you will only lose a few hundred dollars if that. The latter hold their value pretty well. I've had mine since 2010 and it gets me on the harbour up to Balmain or down to Manly and the heads. I've taken it out on the Narrabeen lakes, Pittwater, Botany bay, Cooks river and even Glenbawn dam up in the Hunter valley. Easy to launch as I just need some beach or pontoon access. From a fishing perspective it is easy to change location without having to pack up gear, it doesn't disturb the fish (sat in a school of feeding fish last weekend on Sydney harbour for half an hour without them sounding), you can fish some pretty shallow locations. See all those schools feeding from the shore - my mates and I can get to them (but not as quickly as a power boat). You get some exercise at the same time as fishing. No annual registration fees. Should I keep going?
  11. braid(again)

    Hi Redfish, Short answer is shorten your leader so the knot does not pass through any of the guides. Now for the longer response: How long a leader are you using? When I started fishing with braid over a decade ago the general consensus was two rod lengths of leader. Being an engineer and having a tendency to overthink things I spent a lot of time working out what and why something worked or didn't work. My leaders on most of my gear are sized so that the joiner knot does not pass through the guides coming or going - that is, I usually have 60cm to 1m of leader. The reasons I use a leader rather than tying the braid to the terminal tackle: shock absorbtion (mono has more stretch than braid) - the rod tip also helps with this, lb for lb (not diameter for diameter) I believe fluoro or mono has better chafe resistance than braid when changing lures frequently I waste line and leader is cheaper than braid None of the three reasons above really justify two rod lengths of leader. The other reason for not using two rod lengths of leader is that I fish some snaggy areas and unless using the FG knot if I snag up it will usually break at the joiner knot. I can cope with losing say 1m of fluoro but it seems stupid to lose 4m (two rod lengths) of fluoro every time I get properly snagged. My usual rule with leader is that it is 50% or 100% more than my main line. 10 lb main = 15lb or 20lb leader. Two exceptions to this might be if you are fishing for easily spooked fish or as one of the other Raiders mentioned recently if you are chasing really big fish which you may not be able to stop you want the line to break near the terminal tackle so you don't lose 300m of braid. I met a guy once who was of the two rod lengths persuasion and the knot used to jam up in the bail arm so he took a file to the bail arm for more clearance. I cringed. Regards, Derek
  12. Light Spinning Rod's - What's your choice?

    Shimano Raider bream finesse 2-4kg 7 foot 6 inches 2 piece 3-12 gram lure weight. Slightly stiffer and a little more responsive than the Catana 702. It is also the rod I'd choose if you told me I could only fish with one rod for the rest of my life (big call but I've been using it for over a decade). I also own a Wicked Weasel. I think it is a great blank but it has been relegated to kayak duties as I find the butt a little too long to comfortably work with my style of plastics fishing from the shore. I flick through the wrist with the rod tip close to the water and the longer butt strikes up against my forearm. If you keep an eye out you can find them for $100 on special but usually around the $120. Just be a little careful with the cork when you screw the reel seat down.
  13. After some Leatherjacket tips

    Hi Neil, I've heard them referred to as Sydney Piranhas. There is a video floating around on Youtube showing a school of Chinaman leatherjacket destroying an octopus at Jervis bay. Google leatherjacket and octopus to find it. Or here is the link: A bit of an eye opener. D.
  14. 6kg braid

    When you say light jig head - how light? The problem is likely that you are fishing too light for the gear and the line isn't going back on the with sufficient tension. To put this into context, 6kg or 13lbs is usually what I use to chase kingfish on my snapper gear and at an absolute minimum I'd probably go down to 10gram (say a Halco twisty) lures with my preference being 15gram or heavier. When fishing plastics the lightest jig head I use is generally 3/8oz plus the weight of the plastic. The hardbodies, due to their drag in the water will give you some resistance which you probably are not getting from the light plastics. When retrieving line if it doesn't wrap on the spool with sufficient tension when you next cast, as a loop comes off, it can grab and take with it one of the adjacent loops resulting in the birds nest you are talking about. On my bream gear I have 4lb braid and went through a period of trying the ultra light lures 1/32 or 1/16 and found I would frequently get a birds nest. These days the lightest jighead I use on that gear is 1/8oz or 3.5gm and rarely have this issue.
  15. After some Leatherjacket tips

    BTW - if using prawns then peel them and use small segments. Leatherjackets are very good at sucking out the meat and leaving the skin if you use a whole prawn. I like using small enough pieces so they can get them into their mouths in one shot.