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      NEW LIKE BUTTON   12/27/2017

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About DerekD

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  1. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    Wasn't me. I have a bright blue Hobie revolution with fish finder which gives me something to look at besides the fantastic view when the fish aren't biting. I was going to go to the Western wedding cake and Sow and Pigs but the wind came up so I dropped the baits down at Garden island to start with and then tried some other spots afterwards. I used the rig I was telling you about and it was the heavy rod in the holder which hooked the king. A bit of stuffing around as I tried to get the snapper rod into the rod holder. I had a whole dead squid on the big rod and just the head on the snapper rod. I'm still trying to crack the 1m king.
  2. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    Hi Mike, Sounds like I did slightly better than you with 11 squid (from three different locations) and a 63cm king (4th for 2018 and not legal so had to go back) from the kayak on Saturday but was unsuccessful on Sunday from the shore at a couple of different locations with squid under a float. Alright your flathead was longer than my king. I don't think the 30lb leader was an issue. I picked the one up from the kayak on 80lb. Sometimes kings aren't in the mood and sometimes they will climb over each other to get to what is on offer. I watched a video last night where a guy hooks up by dropping just a hook into a school of kings. I'll have to do a more detailed reply when I have some time (lunchtime at work won't be long enough) but I think you are worrying more about one lure over another than technique and the thought process behind it. You did a really nice write up on flathead techniques and while I might have a different viewpoint on a couple of things you have said I was seriously impressed at how much thought you put into it based on your learning experiences. Regards, Derek
  3. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    In that case try for some squid - tomorrow is as good as any day. Don't spend three straight hours chasing them but in say 15 minute bursts. If you cover the area properly and don't hook up a squid then they are either not there or not playing. Watch the jig as it gets in close as they may follow in that case pause the jig to let them grab it - if and when they do then give the rod tip a short sharp flick to set the jig. If you can shift areas then do so and try it again. If you can't then try something else for the next 45 minutes before trying for squid again. If you catch a squid then strip it. You could use the head 2 to 3m under a float or small balloon (I use water bombs $3 for 100) but keep it away from the structure you are fishing from to avoid the pickers. Once the head is gone you can use other strips from the squid. I usually do this on a sleeper rod but I have to keep one eye on it at all times. Alternative is to put the strip on a light gauge hook without a sinker, cast out and count it down through the water column. When you think it is close to the bottom lift the rod to get it back in the strike zone then count down again. If the squid is small you can send it out whole pinned near the tip of the hood. They can sometimes retain an air bubble as so remain floating on the surface in which case I might use a very light running ball sinker to get them going the right direction. If you get a yellowtail then I prefer no sinker and then send them away from you by pinning them near the tail with a light gauge 4/0 or 5/0 hook. The drag of the line can get them heading away from you. You can also use the yellowtail under a float. Probably back hook them.
  4. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    Straight under the kayak. Just think of the kayak as one big fishing float.
  5. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    A running sinker above swivel will also do and that is what I use for the 50/80lb outfit with a heavy snapper lead as a poor mans down rigger. I use the same rig for yellowtail but please note if you troll too quickly a bait can twist which is where the swivel helps a little. Easiest way to pin the yellowtail is across the nose. I will also bridle rig them with rubber bands which is a little more bump resistant. You will have to Google it but this is how it looks (not my photo). When I am fishing from shore and I want them to head out I pin them closer to the tail. I am looking forward to hearing your fishing report after the weekend. Regards, Derek
  6. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    Hi Mike, In terms of a day plan it sounds good - any day on the water fishing is good. Don't have it set in concrete and keep your eyes open as you may see some schools around. The 10gm slice is an awesome go to for pelagics and suggest you change the trebles out for a single to make unhooking easier. While I don't consider myself to be a kingfish guru I do get my fair share and that has come from trying various techniques and thinking about what has worked and hasn't. I haven't had much luck with the teaser skirts from the kayak but I also haven't bothered using them all too often. I've never hooked one on a grub either so you'd have to ask other people. I like trolling a yo-zuri crystal minnow in the deep diver when I am heading from one location to another. Several years ago I worked out how to do a sub-surface walk the dog retrieve and when combined with pauses it has paid off pretty well. As a result I do well hooking kings on 3" and 4" berkley power minnows on the bream gear and 6" and 9" slapstix on the snapper gear (with the proviso that they have to be around in numbers). Keep trying different things as you will learn more that way. There has been a distinct lack of surface activity in the harbour. Not to say you can't find schools but you have to work pretty hard to do so unlike past years I have seen (when they have been over the whole harbour and feeding for hours at a time). I think squid baits are a higher percentage option and it is what I plan to do when I head out on the kayak this Saturday. If I do see a school I will be chasing it though. I am against the weightless rig from a boat but that is a personal peeve rather than anything related to how well it might fish. I head out with a mate who likes to fish weightless and you wouldn't believe how many times he has wrapped the other lines in the water as the wind or current comes into play. A heavy sinker will keep it down and away from other lines. I want the fish to be able to take the hook without feeling a great deal of resistance which is why I won't use a paternoster rig. Run your line down to a leader of say 1.5m. I loop the leader line a few times through my sinker to achieve a friction lock and then have a further metre of line below that to the hook. The hook then swings freely underneath the sinker and at the level you want to fish. 9lb mono will be fine. Most flathead or trevally won't care. Please note that if you really want to catch a king concentrate on that for the whole session and ideally have fresh squid (or the yellowtail). If you are happy with a day on the water then your original plan is fine. Did you read my link for preparing the squid into baits. Catching kings on lure will likely come later - unless you find some surface schools. They will fight all the way and give you a fair amount of runs. They should also run again when they see the kayak. If you can then get them into clear water. Regards, Derek
  7. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    Hi Again, Weightless baits is a very effective way of getting the kings from the shore but I find it to be a pain from the kayak as unless you are tied off somewhere you end up drifting (current or wind) which means it is difficult to keep the baits down. I usually head out with three rods. A 2-4kg bream rod for light flicking for surface fish and chasing squid. A 5-8kg snapper rod with 15lb braid, 30lb leader and a duolock snap (quick lure changes) for trolling, chasing squid, and bait fishing for kings (I have a pre-rigger swivel, heavy ball sinker and hook setup which I can snap on to the duolock snap). A 50/80lb outfit to which I have 80lb leader, a snapper lead then a swivel, then more line to the hook which I can leave in the back rod holder. The reason I like fishing 4 to 6m off the bottom is that it puts it in a location where they can see the bait as they cruise through. When you can, spend some time learning to catch squid. Of the 17 kings (17 greater Sydney kings was my 2017 goal which I achieved with 3 days to spare - 18 kings is my 2018 goal - see a theme (3 so far this year)) I landed last year 8 were with lure and 9 were with squid. For the record 7 were shore based, 5 from the kayak and 5 from a boat. Put the time in and you'll have your first kingfish pretty soon. In addition to fishing the moorings also fish along the shoreline as they will often follow it on their laps. I've seen 1m plus kings climbing over each other in less than 1m of water to get to the baitfish (didn't have my rod handy) so they don't mind going into the shallows. I've done a few long posts for other people but key points for catching squid are. My go to jig is a 2.2 or 2.5 in a bright colour (usually pink or orange) with some white. Squid have good eyes, can swim quickly but can be hesitant in taking a jig. Check the sink rate of your jig (3 seconds per meter is pretty usual). Fish as close to the bottom as you can without snagging up - if over weed I count down. If over sand I let it hit bottom. Use an aggressive double or triple flick to get it off the bottom and get their attention then have a 3 or 4 second pause in which to get back to the bottom and give them a chance to grab it. If during the flick you feel weight then use a soft hand to retrieve and avoid pulling the jig. They move around so cover ground to find them. If you hook a southern calamari there will often be a 2nd and even 3rd one in the same area of a similar size. Arrow squid seem to travel in larger schools and I have landed up to 9. When they get in close careful landing them. It is one of the funniest things you will see if your mate gets inked. Less funny if it happens to you. I have a technique for landing them without getting inked but I'm sure you'll work something out. Here are some links to previous squidding techniques posts I've done: This one discusses squid preparation for bait. One of these days may have to combine my posts into one and see if it can be pinned. There are a few more I have done over the years which you can find if you search my posts. Regards, Derek
  8. Fishing goal this summer

    A one hundred and fifteen kilogram plus jewfish and a two metre long kingfish. Geshy I am seriously impressed at how high you set the bar.
  9. How to fish Sydney harbor moorings for kingfish

    Hi Mike - the angler and not 89 (I'll call you later). When you say fishing the moorings are you talking about from a boat or from a kayak? I do both and there are only some minor adjustments I make for each scenario. What is your squid catching ability like? To catch kings I prefer fresh squid over yakkas purely for the reason if you have live yellowtail down you have to be careful with line management so they don't wrap up two or three of your lines. My boat is set up so the rod holders are more or less on the corners of the boat and at 45° to the water. This means I can have 4 baits down and keep each as far away from the others as I can which keeps them from tangling as the boat swings. I like about 10 to 14m of water and keep my baits about 4m from the bottom (drop bait to bottom and drop rod tip to water level and wind in slack, lift rod approximately 2m above water then quickly wind down to water level, repeat the 2m lift to get the 4m from the bottom). I like heavier sinkers but have at least 1m of line below the sinker to the hook which allows the hook and bait to move more naturally through the water. I wouldn't use a paternoster rig. Remember to back the drag off as when a king takes the bait the rod will load up till something gives. I use 5/0 or 6/0 Gamakatsu circle hooks with either a strip of squid (2 to 3cm wide and 5 to 8cm long) or the squid head with the hook exposed. I'll tie off on a mooring and ideally have at least several metres of line between me and the buoy to give the kings less chance to wrap me on the mooring. Fishing from shore over the years I noticed kings doing laps of between 10 and 30 minutes. If I don't get a hook up in 45 minutes a location change is in order. With the bigger rods in the holders my fishing mate and I will fish the bream rods to keep busy and for the fun of it. I don't know how many times over the years we have had big fresh baits down and the kings take the small piece of squid on the light rods. Gets a bit hectic and don't panic as you can still land them. From the kayak I have one bait on a really heavy sinker (big snapper lead) in the rod holder and the other forwards of me to ensure bait separation. I try for 4 to 6m off the bottom depending on the water depth. I have a fish finder on mine and it allows me to maintain a particular depth as I cruise very slowly along the shore in the harbour. I know of some people that fish from a boat and they drive from one harbour marker to another and drop a live bait down. If it doesn't get hit within a few minutes they will shift to the next location till they find the kings. More to follow. Derek
  10. Transporting 2 kayaks

    Hi Rah, I drive a small Mazda 323 and have had two Hobie Revolutions (73cm wide) comfortably on top a few times. The trick in my case is that I have the Thule roof racks with the slot in the top to fit accessories. The accessory which allows me to achieve it is the Rhino kayak adjustable J cradle. The first kayak sits upside down and as close to the edge of the roof racks as I can safely get it and still put the tie-downs on. The second kayak sits the right way up but at a slope in the cradle. There is enough room on my roof racks to ensure they are not touching. The padded cradles and curvature of the kayak sides stops them from slipping once I have tightened the straps. They are extremely similar to the cradles shown in the photo but the ones I use are adjustable. The advantage of the J style carrier shown below is that it should fit on your existing roof racks as it clamps around the bars. The advantage with the in the accessory slot ones I have is that I can mount them pretty close to the ends of the cross bars. Now a couple of things to think about. I am tall and still struggle to reach the straps unless I plan ahead and put the straps where I can reach them easily before putting the 2nd kayak on. The overall height of your vehicle will increase dramatically. I have a walkway near my garage but can only put the 2nd kayak on after I have driven underneath the walkway. Regards, Derek
  11. Spinning Reel and Rod - Buying

    Hi Savit. I'm still not quite seeing it (I can be a bit slow at times ). If it is straight mono it should still break at the terminal knot (say fishing hook, or sinker or swivel) which means the fish shouldn't have 20m or similar trailing it. For a 2lb increase in line strength I wouldn't bother with a 12lb leader on a 10lb line class. Since both the nylon and fluorocarbon are likely to be clear/opaque there is not really an appreciable advantage switching from one to the other. I would use a 12lb fluoro leader with say a 6 or 8lb mainline (braid or mono). Regards, Derek
  12. Spinning Reel and Rod - Buying

    You mention you are using 10lb mainline with a 12lb fluoro leader - my personal opinion (others may disagree) is that this arrangement doesn't give you any major benefits. For such a slight rating difference I'd be running your mainline all the way to the terminal tackle. As a general rule my leader is between 1.5x to 2.0x of my mainline. So for 10lb mainline I'd be running 15 to 20lb leader. My mainline is generally braid but I'd use the same philosophy for your setup. Remember that joiner knots are a weak point so you've just dropped the strength of your line for no major gains in abrasion resistance. Just something to think about.
  13. Spinning Reel and Rod - Buying

    Hi Armpits, Allowing for my tendency to use more words than less there is still a bit of information to consider relating to the choice of fishing line. The way I see it is there a predominantly three types of fishing lines used (going to exclude fly lines in the following explanation) for most fishing these days. They each have their niche and I think that someone who claims one particular type is far superior to another might be a little blinkered in their thinking. Monofilament or Mono has been around for the longest and is usually made from nylon and is generally least expensive. It has a good abrasion resistance. It can stretch between 10% and 25% and has good shock strength/absorbtion which is a huge asset when you have an angry marlin shaking its head on the other end of the line. Most overhead game fishing reels I have seen run mono. It has a relatively slow sink rate. Easy knot tying. On the downside it often has a larger diameter for breaking strain. It is not particular sensitive to bites and I find it way too spongy to be enjoyable when fishing lures. It is also affected by UV and often has memory which can result in birds nests. Fluorocarbon looks similar to mono but it is denser so sinks faster, has a refractory index similar to water so it is supposed to be more difficult to see. It has an excellent abrasion resistance and less stretch than mono which can make it easier to feel bites and set the hook. It is not supposed to be affected by UV light. It is usually way more expensive per meter than mono. In due course you will come across the discussion about how much Fluoro leader to use with two rod lengths being often quoted. My preference is a maximum of 80cm to 1m. Firstly, regardless of which leader knot it is (FG, Uni to uni, surgeons) I can feel it running the guides. Secondly, if you snag up then unless you are using the FG knot it is likely to break at the main line to leader knot and I don't particular feel like losing 4m of Fluoro each time. There are times when you will use longer fluoro and this is often by the bream anglers working the sand flats and they will often run fluoro all the way through. Braids (dyneema, Spectra, PE, etc., can be fused or plaited). Very popular due to their low stretch (supposedly 1%) and high sensitivity (I can feel a fish biting the bait over 100m away). Small diameter compared to breaking strain. They are more expensive but they have better UV resistance. I have some braid on a few of my rods which I have been fishing 5 years or longer. People talk about them having less abrasion resistance but my personal experience is that based on line rating they are not as good as mono but based on diameter they have better resistance than mono. I have all three lines somewhere within my outfits. It all comes down to what I am doing with them. I predominantly use braid but will pull out the mono if I am fishing for blackfish or on my overhead 15kg trolling outfit. Do some further research to learn about top-shotting fishing line.
  14. Spinning Reel and Rod - Buying

    Hi Howard, You are right, it is weak (hanging my head in shame). Have you got the series two? Bought mine years ago as a replacement for the Daiwa Spellbinder a fishing mate accidently damaged - I still talk to him but it was a close one. At the time I was writing the response I didn't want to go down to the car to get the numbers off it so I did it from memory. Derek
  15. Spinning Reel and Rod - Buying

    The rod will easily handle a rat king and even a better specimen but it depends on how you fight it and what structure there is in the area. Kings generally fight to the end and you can lose them just when you think you have them beat. Just picked up my third shore based king for 2018 (all three were about 60 -63cm) this afternoon on similar gear with a 15lb braid. Fought like a bigger fish and since I had the time on the wharf I was fishing from I annoyed it at times (flicked the rod) to let it do its runs out in the harbour and not near the structure I was on. Several weeks ago my friend had a similar king on the same wharf pretty well beat but wasn't as experienced with close to structure fishing and he lost it as it dove under an oyster encrusted pylon. The group I fish with land 1 in 2 or 1 in 3 hooked from that wharf and that includes pulled hooks as well as bust offs from structure. The other two kings I hooked and landed were both of the rocks. I used my 7'6" Raider snapper for all three kings. The other people had longer rods which might have been an advantage in close but my rod was so much better for imparting the action I wanted to the lures I was fishing. The line came back chaffed for the second king but I had enough presence of mind at the time to shift the rod around to change the angle of the line relative to the structure. Let the drag do its job and you shouldn't lose too many unless they get close to structure. What pound mono or braid did you get? Learn the lift then wind technique to fight a fish and practice it on every fish you catch so it becomes second nature. Fighting with your own drag is a waste of time (trying to wind the fish in like the reel is a winch). Don't high stick the rod.