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About DerekD

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  1. Short answer is I believe there is negligible signal loss with a through the hull mount if properly installed. I actually bought two Humminbird units at the time. One for my boat and the other for the kayak. The transducer and mounting bracket for both units was the same but I spent more on one of the head units (larger screen and GPS). I switch the larger head unit between the vessels for saltwater and have the smaller unit set up for freshwater (less water density and on a river I don't need GPS). Where I am heading with this is on the boat the transducer is out the back and immersed in the water. On the kayak the same model transducer is through the hull. I use the same head unit on both so I have eliminated most other variables. It still amazes me the detail I can see and I have reduced the sensitivity so as to eliminate the really small stuff the unit picks up. On the kayak I can see down 36m comfortably (deepest part of Sydney harbour is about 46m just off pier 2) when I am near Clifton gardens. The deepest part of middle harbour that I know of is about 35m. When the kayak goes over waves the unit is sensitive enough to pick up a 10cm rise and fall by the kayak. I suspect that the down imaging (more detail but less sensitive than CHIRP sonar) is better (only slightly) when fully immersed. My reason for thinking this that I seem to see more detail of the mooring lines when head over them with the boat than with the kayak but I have never had the chance to look at the same object side by side. The details I get from down imaging is impressive. On the sonar I can see there is an object down there but on the down imaging I can see the cabin and curve of the roof of say the Middle harbour wreck.
  2. Firstly I wouldn't use the scupper holes. Like me I think you will have to use the through the hull mounting system. Working on the basis that I didn't want to drill any holes in my Hobie this was the shopping list I came up with when installing my Fishfinder. Anything you already have you should just tick off. I used the mast hole for a Ram ball on which my Fishfinder sits. I had to put a second ball on my mast pole for out of use storage. Cables coming up underneath the hatch. The mounting bracket is in its operational position. I just have to clip the head unit in place. Mounting bracket in its stored position. I've included where I got some of the equipment as I believe that it shouldn't be a conflict of interest with the site sponsors. 1x Fishfinder 1x Ram Fishfinder Mounting kit to suit mounting bracket holes - Hobie agent at Mona Vale should have these. I went to Whitworths for the shorter fastening bolts and domed nuts. 1x Ram ball mast mount to match mounting kit. I think it will be the smaller 25mm ball – Hobie agent 1x tube of Goop – Hobie agent 1x foam transducer pocket (Polyethylene foam should be the stuff) – Hobie agent or electronics packaging 1x Battery holder for rear hatch (Hobie now do fit for purpose but I prefer my option as it is sealed from water) – Hobie agent 1x U-bolt Ram ball (for storing mounting kit in kayak when not in use) – agent for Ram located in North Sydney 1x fuse holder and rated fuse (see fishfinder manual) – Jay car 1x extension power cables to reach battery – Jay car 1x Heat shrink tube to protect joins of Fishfinder power cable to extension power cable Some cable ties for cleaning up loose cables Some time to install it all. I placed the transducer between the mast pole and the mirage well. I didn't want it behind the well as I didn't want to disturb the signal with water coming off the drive fins. I made a pool with the foam and locked it in place with Goop. I then warmed up the remaining Goop and carefully poured it into the pocket and then worked the transducer into place trying to rock out any air bubbles. Battery storage in the rear hatch as it is not usable under normal operation. Water will get in the kayak so make sure any joins have been soldered and sealed in heatshrink. Don't forget the fuse. I wouldn't want a 12V battery shorting out. Regards, Derek
  3. Hello, I own a 2010 Hobie Revolution 13 and have installed a Humminbird on it years ago. I helped another two friends install fishfinder on their kayaks (another Revo and an Outback) so I have had some experience. You state Hobie Mirage but not which model or year. The newer ones have a pocket designed for the Lowrance transducer but mine didn't so I put together a through the hull arrangement in front of the drive well. The bad thing with the Humminbird is that the connections are permanently connected to the mounting bracket so I had to work out how to stow that when not in use. I use the rear hatch for the battery compartment and with a 7.2AH SLA 12V battery I can get a comfortable 10 hours plus use. On the whole I feel having the Fishfinder hasn't dramatically improved my catch rate as the majority of the time we are sight chasing the schools. I can use it for finding structure and baitfish. Mine has a GPS too which makes it easier than taking lines from local structure to find specific fishing spots. Unless you get a free or cheap second hand unit if you intend to use it as much as you say you will then worth spending a little more money on the unit as you will likely be using it for years to come. One of the other gentleman on this site has set up his kayak with the Lowrance Hook 4 and I think he has CHIRP sonar, down imaging and GPS for a RRP of $390. I believe he was pretty happy with it. Don't try and save yourself $100 just to find you spend more money upgrading. I have a shopping list for the all the gear I picked up for my installation which I'll post as soon as I can. Regards, Derek
  4. Hi All, I've been fishing for over 40 years and in all that time I have never understood the reason for the switch which changes the spinning reel from a single direction wind to being able to wind either direction. As an engineer I can usually work out why a piece of equipment has been designed a certain way but that didn't help me in this case. The best I could come up with was maybe to allow line to be pulled off as a fish moves off but flicking the bail arm or backing off the drag are better ways of achieving this. Within reason I have hated that switch as it is another thing which can go wrong and it is a potential point of ingress for contaminants. I was glad when I started hearing about manufacturers getting rid of that switch. I decided to see if I could finally work out why the bloody thing was there. Fortunately living in this wonderful age of the internet my research was made a lot easier. I have finally found a reason which makes some sense (although I still think is a stupid system). Turns out there is a method of fighting a fish referred to as back reeling and there were some people out there who were big advocates of it. When the fish was on the line and pulling away from you could slowly back reel and let line out and then pull line back in when the run had stopped. Some of these people didn't trust the drag back then so this was the alternate method they used. Apparently there were even reels out there without a drag. There are multiple reasons I think it is stupid method including potential over runs, how well it would work with the fast and powerful runs from fish such as a kingfish (think bruised knuckles), lack of consistency with your fighting pressure but it is an reason which I can accept. A bit of midweek fishing trivia and if anyone can add a bit more about it then I would love to hear it. Regards, Derek
  5. Hi Foghorn, I've had two of the slightly heavier Revolution 13s on the roof of my Mazda 323. In my case I had one sitting flat and upside down on one side of the roof racks and I have an angled cradle for the second kayak. I've travelled at 110km/h with a single kayak and 80km/h with the two on the roof and I haven't had a problem yet. In the car manual you should find the maximum load rating for roof racks.
  6. Hi MCF. Have seen this many a time and I have an easy solution. As you have noticed the leader wraps on the mainline but what you probably haven't worked out yet is that the mono or fluorocarbon doesn't wrap on itself too often. My solution is to have the sinker a bit more than halfway down the leader. So if your leader is 1m long from mainline to hook my sinker would sit say 40cm from the hook. I loop my leader 3 or 4 times through the sinker locking it in to place with friction. If you insist on using a running sinker you may have to rig a leader to a swivel and then sinker and remaining rig.
  7. I fished Crystal Fireline for years as it was the best braid for the price I could find when starting out on soft plastics. I found the issue with it was that it is a fused braid rather than woven braid so over time (depending on how often you fish it) the line will start to fluff up and weaken. At this point if you don't trim it back or end over end it you may start losing fish. One of the guys in the fishing shop put it on the test bed and found that the 4lb would break at 10lb. For $5 it is a really good buy though - really test your leader knot every time you have to re-tie it.
  8. Some luck involved but I've landed enough on light gear (4lb PowerPro with 6 to 10lb leader depending on where I am fishing) to know it can be done. As they are peeling off line gradually tighten (a few clicks at a time) the drag to slow them down without panicking them - lift then wind to get line back and the runs should get shorter each time. You can feel them settling in for a run and when this happens you can change angle of rod a few times to throw off their rhythm. If they are heading towards structure you can flick the bail arm and free spool till they swim away from structure. It feels wrong but works often enough. Danger point is when you get them close to where you are. When they see the boat they will usually run again - I back the drag off a few clicks before this point to reduce the chance of breaking the line. If you are on the shore or a wharf identify potential bust off points beforehand so you can keep them away as best you can. When they are close I take a few winds on to get the rod tip close to the water which means I can quickly put some pressure on by lifting the rod. Keep them off balance by turning their nose by pulling sideways with the rod. Don't let them get the momentum up for a straight run. If you are not on stupidly light gear then see if you can get enough of their head out of the water so they can't get as much oxygen through their gills. Ideally you want them exhausted before you get close to structure. Shore based landing 1 in 2 or 1 in 3 of every king hooked is about the norm for the group I fish with (this includes pulled hooks and bust offs).
  9. PM sent.
  10. BTW don't forget to loosen the wing nut inside the pump at the end of the day so the rubber washers don't compress permanently over time. Good habit to flush the sand out too. I hold mine under water at the beach before finishing at the end of the day and operate it for the full stroke a few times. Water will suck into the internals through the air breather hole in the handle and then I lift it out of the water then flush the sand out through the same hole. I find this method easier then removing the washers and flushing.
  11. As far as brands go Alvey or Wilson would be my first choice. I've had my Wilson for over 30 years now. If I haven't used mine for a while then I can get blisters during some big sessions. These days you will see some with neoprene on the handle which will protect from blisters. If you don't like bending down then consider an extra long pump. It shouldn't affect you for a long time but please note that the material for the washers is slightly different and there appears to be a minute difference in diameter. I can't use Alvey washers in my Wilson as it does not retain a vacuum. Wilson were kind enough to send me a replacement washer from Queensland last time I had to replace it.
  12. Hi Mike, I enjoy reading your reports just as much as the actual fishing sessions we have had together. I'm a little upset to have missed this session but really happy to see that your effort in learning the various techniques has been paying off. To achieve a king like that in what has been the worst season I've seen for over a decade is a really excellent result. I'm seriously hoping the kings will turn up in numbers inside the harbour in late October as they did last year and then it should be way shorter till your next king. Regards, Derek
  13. Hi, Apart from the obvious (travelling) what are you looking for out of this rod? How compact does it need to be? What line rating are you thinking? What sort of fishing (bait/lure/both) do you have in mind? I've handled a few telescoping rods over the years but never been impressed enough to consider buying one. I find they often have less guides than I like (I look for 1 per foot of length plus 1 more. For example, 7 foot rod = 8 guides or more) which results in a poor bend in the rod when they load up and the guides have a tendency to get a little twisted if you don't lock the sections up properly. You can catch fish on them and they are compact but I didn't enjoy using them. Also found them to be a little heavier than my normal gear. I have a number of 2 piece rods which I keep in after market travel cases and which fit nicely in the boot of my car. I also own several traveller rods from the Shimano Raider series (1 Bream, 1 Snapper & 1 Barra) and a 4 piece 7 weight fly rod from Composite Developments which all came with a travel case and are all small enough to fit in a suitcase. As they are all graphite and well designed they are a pleasure to fish with. The Raider travellers have cost me between $120 and $140 depending on how nice the salesperson was on the day. Regards, Derek
  14. There were now "No fishing" signs on both of the pontoons near the rowing club. We used to use the one which didn't have a sign.
  15. If you are not fishing off a boat I wouldn't bother. Back in the 80s (and probably way before then) it was very popular for people to use floats and ganged hooks off the South side of the island (most often for tailor). The problem is that the weed and rock structure goes a fair way out underneath the water level. In short unless you are using a float it is likely you will get snagged up and lose a lot of tackle. I have wondered why people stopped fishing off the island but I suspect some of the rules may have changed since then. I believe there were some no fishing signs along some sections of the beach but the last time I looked it wasn't particularly clear cut.