Fab1

Maintaining your boats cables and grease points

35 posts in this topic

1 hour ago, rickmarlin62 said:

im with you Fabian and try to do all my own maintenance..i begrudge paying $60/$75 per hr or more when I can do it myself..my boat was stolen by my ex and I bought it back a few months ago..in the time it was sitting the steering froze so I just fixed that basically same as your post I then bought second hand trailer and reconfigured all rollers to suit and balanced trailer and boat  the trailer guy wanted to charge me $550 to do this..i replace spark plugs pull carbies apart and clean them..ive had boats all my life and wouldn't be able to afford one if I had to pay for any or all work to be done by so called proffesionals..so like you and many others il keep doing everything I can do myself..a big thank you for all the effort you put into these posts..congrats..rick

There is a huge satisfaction doing things yourself isn't there mate?Im glad you found my post helpful.

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10 minutes ago, JonD said:

Why are you saying you'll  this and you'll that? So I'm about to have my very first mechanical failure in 42 years of owning boats yes had my first at 12 and I'm now 52 and never had a single breakdown or problem from any boat or  engine or trailer because I have them maintained.

Only ever replaced one steering cable which was on a 12 yr old Haines signature 540f, this was done as soon as I purchsed the boat but I dare say my mechanics procedure would of also fixed it, just felt new was better than trying to fix up something I had no history on.

Each to their own but to make out I will have an issue that my manufacturer is going to laugh at me about is completely laughable in itself.

Just add my last service ( filters oil and gearbox oil ) on my Yam f 70 4 stroke was $150, the one before which included impellor was $200.

You need to lighten up Jon.Rick was just stating the obvious.Having someone work on your boat costs a lot of money to some people including him,myself and many others.There is no better satisfaction in the world than doing something yourself and saving a fortune in the process over the years that I'm sure rick will agree with.

Not once did any one say your going to have a failure,in fact because you put so many hrs on your boat you keep everything moving and less likely to seize up.

Who cares how much your service was I could of done it for a fraction of that but so what you do what you can.

  I never intended to have a crack at you or your mechanic,I just said oiling the cable is only helping the cable.If you don't clean and lube the tilt tube water will get in and eventually cause rust and the old grease if used originally can cake in there causing issues.The same goes for the bushes inside the swivel hub of the motor.

I leave you with this thought and is part of the reason I've always done things myself where possible.

When you have your car,boat ,mower etc etc serviced can you be 100%sure that the work and parts that where done/fitted where one in fact done and two done to a  quality standard?I can.

Sadly there's thousands of people that get taken for a ride every day it's not funny.

Anyway,again I apologise if this has upset you but I will say it again oiling the cable will only help  the cable from Seizing/freezing it will do jack for the tilt tube,bushings etc.

Cheers.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Fab1 said:
4 hours ago, JonD said:

 

Go and try to make a warranty claim on a rusty cable or tilt tube and you'll find your answer.They will laugh at you and say it is neglect on your part.You'll also find that usually the same people that neglect the steering on their boat or do minimal maintenance are the ones that sooner or later will be asking for help with seized steering.The same goes for wheel bearings etc.

Sorry but this was aimed at me and there seems to be a fair few times where you, you'll are quoted in a reply to me.

I simply stated in a reasonable manner how my mechanic does a similar thing in less than 5 mins ( not an hour at $65 or $75 per hour) simply 5 mins at a cost of around $6- $7 when you break down the quoted rates. I was then informed on how it was a job not done properly. Also how my engine is likely seize while still under warrantee doesn't say much for new engines.

I apologise for having an opinion, I certainly don't mind standing down from this forum if having an opinion that differs from someone else is a problem but I don't remember rubbishing the thougher job that was done anyway.

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48 minutes ago, JonD said:

Sorry but this was aimed at me and there seems to be a fair few times where you, you'll are quoted in a reply to me.

I simply stated in a reasonable manner how my mechanic does a similar thing in less than 5 mins ( not an hour at $65 or $75 per hour) simply 5 mins at a cost of around $6- $7 when you break down the quoted rates. I was then informed on how it was a job not done properly. Also how my engine is likely seize while still under warrantee doesn't say much for new engines.

I apologise for having an opinion, I certainly don't mind standing down from this forum if having an opinion that differs from someone else is a problem but I don't remember rubbishing the thougher job that was done anyway.

Jon,your taking it all out of context mate.What your mechanic is doing for you is working.Keep doing what you have always done.I didn't say anything about $75hr etc that was Jon stating that he wasn't prepared to pay that.Never apologise for having an opinion mate as that's how we all learn.

I don't know everything and I make it a habit to try to learn something new every day.

If you thought I targeted you I sincerely apologise mate as that wasn't my intention.

I just wanted anyone reading out discussion that simply oiling the cable is not doing a full service on a cable operated steering system for someone that would be giving it a go for the first time.

We'll leave it there and I hope you continue to post on this fantastic site of ours and look forward to your posts.

Again,I didn't mean to offend you or upset you in any way.

Take care.

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10 hours ago, Fab1 said:

Jon,your taking it all out of context mate.What your mechanic is doing for you is working.Keep doing what you have always done.I didn't say anything about $75hr etc that was Jon stating that he wasn't prepared to pay that.Never apologise for having an opinion mate as that's how we all learn.

I don't know everything and I make it a habit to try to learn something new every day.

If you thought I targeted you I sincerely apologise mate as that wasn't my intention.

I just wanted anyone reading out discussion that simply oiling the cable is not doing a full service on a cable operated steering system for someone that would be giving it a go for the first time.

We'll leave it there and I hope you continue to post on this fantastic site of ours and look forward to your posts.

Again,I didn't mean to offend you or upset you in any way.

Take care.

Thanks Fabian. You put an awful lot of time in here helping others with the informative posts you add. It is much appreciated by members and guests.

If others use mechanics to do their work then well and good. Jon perhaps you might use the info here to go back and have a discussion with your man that does your work even? Everything we learn is useful I reckon although this stuff is way out of my league.

Lets move on and thanks everyone for their input

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Cheers guys and girls. I admit I took offence partly because the mechanic is also a friend, who only tends to do comercial outboards ( people who make their livings from having reliable outboards). His reputation and fairness in price has made him an extremely hard man to have on your side. The mechanical side of things is just to keep his hand in the business as he also owns a comercial urchin business. 

Fab1 the job you have done is most certainly first class, the fact the cable location on your boat looks relatively easy to remove also adds to the ease you can do it yourself. Having had a 6 month old throtle cable failure on my current centre console, the difficulty removing it convinced me not to try and replace any cables through the extremely tight series of bends and sealed underfloor channels. This is something anyone should consider before kinking or damaging other wiring, fuel lines, transducer cables, pumps etc that often all get pushed into the same channel.

All the best Jon

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8 hours ago, mrsswordfisherman said:

Thanks Fabian. You put an awful lot of time in here helping others with the informative posts you add. It is much appreciated by members and guests.

If others use mechanics to do their work then well and good. Jon perhaps you might use the info here to go back and have a discussion with your man that does your work even? Everything we learn is useful I reckon although this stuff is way out of my league.

Lets move on and thanks everyone for their input

Thanks Donna.

7 hours ago, JonD said:

Cheers guys and girls. I admit I took offence partly because the mechanic is also a friend, who only tends to do comercial outboards ( people who make their livings from having reliable outboards). His reputation and fairness in price has made him an extremely hard man to have on your side. The mechanical side of things is just to keep his hand in the business as he also owns a comercial urchin business. 

Fab1 the job you have done is most certainly first class, the fact the cable location on your boat looks relatively easy to remove also adds to the ease you can do it yourself. Having had a 6 month old throtle cable failure on my current centre console, the difficulty removing it convinced me not to try and replace any cables through the extremely tight series of bends and sealed underfloor channels. This is something anyone should consider before kinking or damaging other wiring, fuel lines, transducer cables, pumps etc that often all get pushed into the same channel.

All the best Jon

Some very valid points mate.Yes my cable is one of the easier ones to do but the harder ones have been put there some how.

Personally I really enjoy tackling those real hard jobs the most.

In regards to your mechanic from what you say,I would bend over backwards to keep him as good ones like him that do a good job and are reasonably priced are few and far between.

Take care. 

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On 15/05/2017 at 8:20 AM, Fab1 said:

All the best mate.Let us know how you go.

No good! But I wouldn't have even known where to start if it wasn't for this post! 

The trouble I have is that my boat has a well and after manufacturing they have dropped the motor down one hole. This now doesn't allow enough play to remove the cable. The whole motor needs to be removed, so off to the mechanics she goes! $$$$ ouch! 

IMG_0382.JPGIMG_0383.JPG

Time for some much needed love anyway! She's been a great boat to me and deserves some attention! 

Should be ready for snapper season! :) 

Cheers scratchie!!! 

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3 hours ago, Scratchie said:

No good! But I wouldn't have even known where to start if it wasn't for this post! 

The trouble I have is that my boat has a well and after manufacturing they have dropped the motor down one hole. This now doesn't allow enough play to remove the cable. The whole motor needs to be removed, so off to the mechanics she goes! $$$$ ouch! 

IMG_0382.JPGIMG_0383.JPG

Time for some much needed love anyway! She's been a great boat to me and deserves some attention! 

Should be ready for snapper season! :) 

Cheers scratchie!!! 

Fair enough,Other than enlarging that access hole for removal the only other two options really are an engine hoist or chain block.

 I'd choose the enlarged hole method and fitting a rubber bellow afterwards for easy future maintenance if needed.

Hope all goes well mate.

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1 hour ago, Fab1 said:

Fair enough,Other than enlarging that access hole for removal the only other two options really are an engine hoist or chain block.

 I'd choose the enlarged hole method and fitting a rubber bellow afterwards for easy future maintenance if needed.

Hope all goes well mate.

It's all good FAB! Ive learnt a lot from all this! I'm now motivated to get the show on the road! Thanks for all your input!

 Cheers scratchie!!! 

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