kingfishbig

Dragging trailer brakes

11 posts in this topic

Perhaps Raiders could help me with this. My trailer brakes are dragging (one side). I have a mechanical override system. I realise there could be a number of causes but I noticed that the override coupling is not sliding so this would be the first place to start. I can't free it up though, I have tried force (hammering the end) but it won't budge. There is a large nut on boat end - has anyone tried undoing that? Or any other suggestions?

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Suggest u disconnect the cable then check the caliper for movement , ie move the arm where the cable connects too .

this will determine if it's the caliper or something else.  if the caliper , perhaps some WD40 , if that does not free it up then the caliper will need to come off.

In respect to the coupling there should be two grease nipples.  Give it a good grease & with the cable still removed hook the trailer on & drive around the block a few times applying the brakes many times , this should free it up  

 

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Yes I'll try what you suggested to free up the coupling, then see if the brakes still drag. The arms seem fine on the calipers, but aren't the calipers meant to move also? Ie there is a sliding arrangement through the use of sleeves around the two bolts. It looks like they may have frozen up on one side. Do you think I might be able to re lubricate them without taking the wheel or calipers off?

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are they drum brakes or rotor and caliper

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Disk mechanical override or in other words rotor and caliper and cable.

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There's a famous saying in my language that translates loosely to....the lazy man always does the work twice.Pull the lot apart,clean,lube the caliper slides with silicon grease and adjust the cable correctly.Spend the half hour and do it right from the get go.

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I haven't done it for a while Fab1 but if my memory serves me it is quite fiddly getting the calipers back on with the brake pads if you remove them completely. So if you are not changing the bearings or pads it will be a lot easier to clean and lube the slides in situ if it's possible (I think I will give it a go). Likewise not having to move the boat and jacking it up.

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1 hour ago, kingfishbig said:

I haven't done it for a while Fab1 but if my memory serves me it is quite fiddly getting the calipers back on with the brake pads if you remove them completely. So if you are not changing the bearings or pads it will be a lot easier to clean and lube the slides in situ if it's possible (I think I will give it a go). Likewise not having to move the boat and jacking it up.

You need to seperate the caliper halves to lube the slides properly. throw up some photos,I would like to see how bad they look if you don't mind.

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Having just gone through the brake pad change on my trailer

You can undo the two bolts (One at a time) and the slides should be able to slid out without removing the caliper.

Remove one slide clean and lube and then do the other, I notice my caliper still don't move much but it is a slight movement, more one side of the caliper than both sides equally.

If the tow neck isn't moving then grease and drive around the block, could try some heat to free it up if its rusty.

 

A few photos might help too.

Edited by jeffb5.8

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47 minutes ago, jeffb5.8 said:

Having just gone through the brake pad change on my trailer

You can undo the two bolts (One at a time) and the slides should be able to slid out without removing the caliper.

Remove one slide clean and lube and then do the other, I notice my caliper still don't move much but it is a slight movement, more one side of the caliper than both sides equally.

If the tow neck isn't moving then grease and drive around the block, could try some heat to free it up if its rusty.

 

A few photos might help too.

Yes, I was thinking along those lines, but it is a long time since I have worked on the brakes myself. I had another look at the trailer this afternoon and after a bit of a think. I gave the couple a taps with a big sledge hammer I conveniently had lying around and it does move a bit. It apparently has a spring inside to give a dampening effect.  The  spring would seem to be quite a powerful one (coupling is rated to 2000 kg) so perhaps it is normal not to be moved by hand or a light hammer.

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the spring in them is rated that's why they are called override brakes..when a certain amount of force is exerted on the coupling whilst braking the brakes start to engage....sometimes its easier to launch boat and pull brakes apart and clean without boat in the road..rick

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