Volitan

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Volitan last won the day on July 15 2018

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About Volitan

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    Central Coast, NSW

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  1. I understand what you are trying to ask but really your question is so general and so vague it’s very difficult for anyone to give you a meaningful answer. Fishing is like that, there are so many different ways to go about it. We don’t even know whether you are talking about boat fishing or land based, so any answer is just going to be a scattergun. You would be better off narrowing your question down to a specific location and a specific approach (eg, you might ask how do I approach surf fishing off a Sydney beach at nighttime).Then you will find the people on this forum only too happy to help. cheers V.
  2. Volitan

    African Pompano caught in Sydney Harbour. (Pennant Fish)

    Pennant Fish ( Alectis ciliaris) Diamond Trevally (Alectis indica) Closely related and hard to tell apart. The best distinguishing feature for juveniles is the ventral fins which have elongated filaments in the diamond trevally, but not the pennant fish. Also, juvenile pennant fish photos do indeed show a black spot at base of dorsal fin, but that is not mentioned in my books. I’m not sure why but I’m guessing it’s because it’s not always present - or perhaps because scientists generally don’t like to use colour as a distinguishing feature. So its a pennant fish. Also called African pompano and many other names which you’d expect for a fish that occurs worldwide. On whether it’s rare or not, the official range of both species is to Wollongong. Apparently juveniles ride the East Australia current down the coast in late summer and are resident in estuaries in the Sydney area, but die off as the water cools. So not rare, but not common either.
  3. Volitan

    Big eye Redfish in Sydney Harbour

    I’m not sure what a bigeye redfish is. If you mean Red Bigeye then if you scroll down in this forum and look for a post by Lukelee then there is a photo of one caught under the Roseville Bridge.
  4. Volitan

    Roseville Bridge Night and Afternoon

    https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0008/668258/collecting-animals-and-plants-from-rock-platforms-and-sand-flats-around-sydney-english.pdf Scroll down to read about the Sydney Harbour Intertidal protected area. Also http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0009/329319/sydney-harbour-northern-beaches-rec-fishing-guide.pdf note the taking of shellfish of any type is prohibited in Sydney Harbour - not just in the IPA but anywhere inside the heads. Other types of bait you can collect in Sydney harbour but only in waters deeper then 10 meters below the mean low water mark (ie not intertidal). I think bait weed is not included, but haven’t looked that up so don’t rely on it.
  5. Volitan

    Jewies off the jetty

    Can’t help thinking that deformity comes from being caught in a gill net when younger.
  6. Volitan

    Silver drummer

    I know a spot where there are reportedly a lot of silver drummer on a consistent basis. I’ve never targeted these fish before but would like to give them a go. I’ve googled fishing for them and it is a bit daunting. Has anyone here had any experience with them ? Any advice ? cheers
  7. Volitan

    Unknown Fish Lost

    Wobbegong?
  8. Just a simple thing but so convenient. Carries up to 4 rods and 2 beach spikes, then folds out to keep them handy and out of the sand. cheers v
  9. Volitan

    The DIY SP jighead experiment

    I’m sure they will catch you fish. However I can tell you what has worked for me with tying my own saltwater flies, and fly/jig and fly/popper combos. Firstly, a great big outsize eye on the jig head. Predatory fish zoom in on the eye. Flouro colours. Flies with a lot of flouro work very well because flies are easily overlooked by fish. Fish eyesight is tuned to work in low light, so they are particularly responsive to flouro (giving out more visible light then is taken in). Fluorescent chartreuse and flouro pink seem to be what works for me. Lots of movement. You need feathers etc that flex and pulse in a lifelike way. Ditch the foam on the side, replace it with twitchy soft feathers backed up with some stiffer flouro flash. I reckon that as soon as fish see feathers pulse, it confirms to them that the fly/jig is alive because everything living in the water needs to pulse somehow to get along. When you think about a clouser, it’s just a fly/jig with the weight coming from lead wire wrapped along the body. cheers V.
  10. Volitan

    Jervis bay fish ID (Sand Whiting)

    Looking at the book Sea Fishes of Southern Australia. The main diagnostic is the rear margin of the first dorsal fin. Concave in sand whiting, convex in trumpeter and eastern school whiting. Also mentioned is the ‘dusky blotch at the base of the pectoral fin’. Present in sand and trumpeter whiting, absent in school whiting. Also mentioned are the diagonal bars along the back of the school whiting - which darken after death. So its diagnostics are in line with a sand whiting.
  11. Volitan

    DIY breaking strain tester

    So I made my testing device today, and I’m pretty happy with it. At least I made a prototype - I usually make a prototype of things before making the real thing just to get the bugs ironed out. This morning I bought a large, long-travel tension spring, which I reasoned would have more reliable performance then a small spring. then welded up a few levers and brackets. Done. Simple and ugly but robust. then took my old diving weights down to the friendly local postmaster to get them weighed to use for static testing. then tested the device with the weights in static mode. Results were actually pretty awful between 0 and 2 kilos, then ok, then a strange blip of inaccuracy around 10-11 kilo. Then ok up to 15kg which is where I stopped. So I figured the inaccuracy below 2kg was inherent and redesigned the device so that it actually kicked in at 2kg and marked that as 0kg on the scale. Then spent the rest of the afternoon refining it to remove any variation or play. Springs are strange, finicky little things to work with. The result is pretty good - I don’t know how to express the accuracy mathematically, but 30mm on my scale represents one kilo, and the accuracy is within 0.5mm everywhere except around the 11 kg mark where it jumps up to 2mm, then down to 1 mm but in the other direction, then back to about 0.5 mm at the 13kg mark. I think that’s just a characteristic of the spring. These measures don’t change no matter how many times I retest it so I suppose that’s conditional success. i could be using the wrong term here, really it’s repeatability or reliability that I’m looking for not accuracy. when I get access to a better workshop later in the week I’ll refine it a bit, replace the metal to metal joints with bearings, build the bollards (for wrapping line around) and put a slider on the scale so it preserves the maximum value after a test. Cheers
  12. Volitan

    DIY breaking strain tester

    Hi Derek. Your suggestion is a good one, and I was going to do something similar but using sand not water. In the end I figured building a spring focused device would offer shorter intervals between tests. Probably your method would be a little more accurate because it eliminates the vagaries of the spring which really come to the fore when you start working with them. Besides, I just like making things. i also note your suggestion of using large dowels for securing the ends without knots. That’s a good suggestion and I understand they are called ‘bollards’ in the testing industry. Like giant stainless steel cotton reels, apparently. cheers
  13. Volitan

    DIY breaking strain tester

    See my comments below about the finnickyness of springs, but multiply it by several times because you’re dealing with a small, very high tensile spring of short travel.
  14. Volitan

    DIY breaking strain tester

    Actually, pretesting counts for very little. the pretest is for a smooth pull on unknotted line. The question is how are lines degraded by being knotted, by being repetitively flexed, by being subjected to shock loads rather then smooth loads etc etc. Another issue I have is how do you buy ‘quality line’. What constitutes an assurance of quality - is it the price, the hyperactivity of the marketing efforts, the fact that people who are prominent in the sport swear by it? If you can’t measure it how do you know it has the features of a ‘quality line’. And what constitutes quality anyway when standards tests are so divorced from real world experience. On use of scales. Researching this a bit, I think the ‘scale pull test’ was long ago invalidated as a way of reliably measuring either knot strength or line test. It serves now only as an annoyance to people in the industry doing it properly. Nothing wrong with using the scales as a source of a reliable spring, but a little bit of extra work and money should allow me to build something that eliminates the major issues. I’m not after scientific accuracy. cheers v.
  15. Volitan

    DIY breaking strain tester

    With respect Kingie Chaser, that’s missing the point of the exercise. The point of this post is not about the here and now. It’s not about the line that I’m currently using, or the knots I’m currently tieing. The point is to raise the whole scenario of line selection and usage above the typical approach of intuition and anecdote and put it on a measured and objective basis. i realise this approach isn’t the way most people like to approach fishing, but too me it’s obvious if you buy some line and tie some knots in it then how can you be certain you are getting the best out of it unless you have an accurate and repeatable way of measuring it. ‘I reckon’ just doesn’t fly with me.