Hateanchors

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About Hateanchors

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  1. Hateanchors

    Fitting New Live Bait Tank Pump

    I suppose everyone’s set up is different, but the point is it should be fine to leave the pump on while underway as long as water is getting to it. There is no need to turn it off.
  2. Hateanchors

    Fitting New Live Bait Tank Pump

    My pick up pushes water up to the pump but it only trickles out into the bait tank because it has to go through the stationary pump which slows it down. I have to have the pump on to get a proper flow. There wouldn’t be anything wrong with having the pump on while underway as long as it is being fed water from a pick up.
  3. Hateanchors

    Terez rod, rust?

    From my experience this is somewhat “normal” and unavoidable for a rod. I think the rusty looking spots are not the actual guide rusting away, but more like metal/ rust residues on the underside of the epoxy. They are separate to the guide metal. You can see that in your picture close up.
  4. Hateanchors

    Feedback on bait / bilge pumps

    I have used Rule 500 size for years now and they last a long time if you take care of them. Did yours fail for any reason that you know of? I see them fail a lot when stuff gets caught inside the impeller and the motor burns out. It’s possible that something can get caught temporarily without you knowing, making the motor work extra hard and severely reduce its life. For this reason I recommend fitting the optional metal screen and check and clean it after every trip. Have the pump properly fused and don’t run them dry or when underway unless it’s being fed water so it doesn’t overheat.
  5. Hateanchors

    Fitting New Live Bait Tank Pump

    5 years isn’t too bad for one of those. I think the Rules have a 5 year warranty. It’s better not to run them dry or while underway unless it’s being fed water. I also like to give mine and the bilge pump a quick flush with fresh water while running after every trip. I had a Rule rust and seize once. Its fine to join into the existing wires as long as the new pump is the same size or smaller. If it is bigger you will probably need thicker wires. I don’t know your pump location but try to make the wire join in a spot where it won’t ever get submerged in water.
  6. Hateanchors

    Minn Kota Powerdrive to Ipilot conversion

    The 54 would be better but I suppose the 40 will hold position using ipilot with the same difficulty or ease as when you have been doing it manually. So if it’s been satisfactory then it won’t be any different with ipilot. I done mine a long time ago. When the ipilot kit first came along. 9 years ago or something. If your planning on wanting more power as well then you should consider whether just getting a whole new unit is a better option rather than upgrading things and still having an ‘old’ unit in the end.
  7. Hateanchors

    Minn Kota Powerdrive to Ipilot conversion

    I remember having the same issue. I couldn’t find anyone that had done it or any confirmation if it would work properly or not, but from what I saw between the 2 versions I figured it should work. I have a 4.9m runabout. 54lb Minn Kota. I don’t use it offshore but it would be ok if the current and wind are low.
  8. Hateanchors

    Minn Kota Powerdrive to Ipilot conversion

    Hi mate. I have a V1 and I did this exact conversion when the ipilot just came out. Back then Minn Kota couldn’t tell me if it will work or not but I took the risk. It’s been working perfectly ever since and I recommend it if you want to save money from buying a whole new Ipilot unit. I had to change the board to a V2 and then fit the kit like you said. A few things I recommend after owning this for so long is to solder every electrical joint on the whole unit including the board. You have to cut some of the original plastic and then seal with sealant but it’s worth it to avoid loose wire problems that make the unit do silly things on its own or just not work and ruining your fishing day. Good luck.
  9. Hateanchors

    Sienna Reel problem

    As I said earlier yting, Shimano reels have had this issue for a very long time. Even old model Stella’s like mine. The problem is because they use 2 pieces for the bail arm which then have to have a join. Because the metal is so thin, this join is prone to having exposed sharp edges. Some come from the factory with a some what ok join and some not so good. Better reels have a full one piece bail arm and no join. These parts are pressed together and the only fix I know of is putting something over the top. Super glue won’t do much good. Epoxy or what I used stuff called JB Weld.
  10. Hateanchors

    2 stroke puttering below certain revs?

    That guide in not right. The lean one is on the right and optimal is on the left. Also, plugs are just a guide IMO. There are many instances where plug colour doesn’t tell the full story. Andy, the engine in the video sounds to me exactly the same the whole time. It looks like it’s running at low revs and roughish, which is normal for an old school 2 stroke. It should run smooth and clear once you increase revs. If it doesn’t there is an issue.
  11. Hateanchors

    Sienna Reel problem

    I think I know what you are talking about. It’s where the bail wire meets the roller. Shimano reels have had this problem for years and you probably got one of the worse ones. Newer and the higher priced reels have a one piece design, eliminating the join. I would take it back for sure and explain the problem and demand a refund or fix. If it’s sharp and cutting the line then it should be clear to see the fault and there is nothing for them to argue about. I have an old Stella with a similar 2 piece design. I never had the line get caught there but just to be sure I mixed up some 2 part epoxy type metal and stuck a small amount around the join. Its been good for years of use. I can get a picture if your interested.
  12. Hateanchors

    New steering cable and helm stiff?!

    Ok I’ll leave you guys oto solve this problem 😣 I’m off this one. I still think he has an issue somewhere else and this bracket changing is creating other issues and covering up the original problem.
  13. Hateanchors

    New steering cable and helm stiff?!

    This has softened the steering but now there is a new problem. I’m no expert but to me the reduced lock is there to stay if you leave the bracket in the forward position. Changing the drag link to the correct length wont give you more lock, it will just even each side. Looking at the second video, I would not be satisfied with that amount of lock to lock that you now have.
  14. Hateanchors

    Tailor Hookup Rate Help

    Definitely try changing the treble to a single. Make sure it’s not too small either. You want it significantly bigger than one of the hooks on the treble. I use a single for metals on tailor and the hook ups per strike I reckon are the same but the landing rate and ease of hook removal are definitely better. I think the reason they stay pinned better is because a treble has 3 small hooks which only grab a small amount each, a lot of the time with only one. A single has one large hook that grabs a much bigger chunk when it goes in.
  15. Hateanchors

    New steering cable and helm stiff?!

    As I read it, the only thing he has changed is the cable and the rotory helm. It was smooth before this. A few other ideas to check. Andy, check the end of the steering cable where it goes in and out of the motor tube is not rubbing against the inside of the motor tube or something else when it’s connected. Check the new rotory helm and new cable are compatible with their gears or however they interact with each other. Is it still stiff when everything is connected and you try to turn the steering by pulling the motor? Is there any kind of tension or pressure on the cable end when connecting up the drag link? Disconnect things one by one until you find the culprit. The helm rotor, lay the cable straight across the boat and try and turn the motor etc. My guess is still one of the new parts has a fault with it. Edit, check the drag link/ cable end connection is not binding.