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campr

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campr last won the day on April 18 2020

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MORWONG (7/19)

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  1. Sorry I didn't get back to you Maccapacca. Yes 16lb mono would be ok as a leader. I use 16lb flurocarbon for flatties and 8lb fluro for bream and whiting. I prefer 8 or 12lb but use 16lb as sometimes have extended fight times in comps as I fish 1kg pretest main line. Ron
  2. Your casting distance will be severely cut back using 16lb mono. Braid of about 8lb would be better however this will make your rigging much more complex as you will need about a rod length of mono (or fluro) leader attached via an FG knot. All part of the learning curve like I've been following for about 70 years. Ron
  3. I would be a bit wary using something thick like body deadoner as you could have new electrolysis under it and not know until you have a hole in the hull. I think that stuff is tar based and dont know if it would react with the aluminum. Good luck. Ron
  4. Time and tides definately afect prime feeding times for some species however if given the opportunity to feed by encountering a prime bait they will eat it regardless of t and t. The main thing is if you like fishing and have the opportunity, go for it. Ron
  5. I fish 1kg pretest line during ANSA comps and have cught flathead to 5.6kg and jew to 3.2kg this way. Naturally drag settings are critical for this. I have a pvc piipe set in the ground to hold the rod and used to set the drag to 1/3 of breaking strain with scales by walking away at a fairly brisk pace. With time and experience you can do this by feel just pulling line from the drag by hand. Ron
  6. Looks like electrolysis. It would be worthwhile to remove damaged material back to solid metal preferably with sanding disk and stainless wire brush. Vaccume all resulting dust out and wash before painting with an aluminium specific primer. The most important thing is to find the source of the electrolysis. Check the bottom for foriign objects like sinkers, hooks, coins, swivels etc. If you don't find anything check all around the hull especially the fixings like rivets, bolts etc to make sure they aren't made from reactive metals like braas or steel. Good luck. Ron
  7. Some of the old ANSA freshwater comps used to provide a tip truck at the weigh in location to throw your carp into. Amazing how many we got out of the system. They weren't wasted either but went to be processed as fertiliser. The so call carp virus caused the carp to produce mostly male offsprings so there were less females to breed. Also known as the Motherless Carp project, however I believe they are wary of releasing it in case it affects our natives. Ron
  8. Further to my comments above. All the rigging methods you mentioned will work depending on your location. Sinker rig works if bottom structure is clean like sand which Ive used for mulloway. Floats work in rocky or weedy areas as long as current isn't too strong. Unweighted squid will work well and sink down ok if current not too strong but you have to tend the rod at all times and retrieve and recast as it nears the bottom. Horses for coarses. Ron
  9. If not competition fishing you can put a personal rule to this. Usually if the fish is secured like safely netted or in boat and can't escape without your help, its landed. If you have a fish next to your craft and remove hook to release while still in the water, its caught. Just to complicate matters, I believe that in gamefishing rules you only have to grab the leader to make a capture. As a general rule, covered in panco crumbs and fryed is definately caught. Ron
  10. Most common way is a snooded 2 hook rig with top hook through top point of hood taking the weight of the bait and 2nd hook in head or water jet tube. Some use a treble for 2nd hooh wwith just 1 tang in bait. Are you talking live or dead squid? Ron
  11. Drive on doable as is. Not much different to setup on my trailer with a 5.6m quinnie. I managed ok with your setup but recently added another post and extended v to help direct on to the rear roller. I often fish by myself so also added a boat catch to the front. I had a spring loaded set of v rollers on my previous rig and realy liked it but couldnt fit to this trailer, however it looks like they could be fitted to yours. Lastly make sure your rollers roll well. I made my own stainless steel axles from rod the same diameter as roller axles and recommend this to everyone regarless of whether you drive on or winch. Ron
  12. Another side to this. Crushing barbs is common up north when fishing remote areas as it negates the risk of hooking yourself far from medical help. I have done this twice in my life. The last time earlier this year with a 4/0 hook buried all the way into my calf. Not fun when out at sea by myself. Ron
  13. campr

    Utes

    I doubt there would be a lot of difference between a single and twin cab. I had a commodore wagon which towed my 5.6 meter Quinnie no problem but on long trips was using up to 17 litres per 100ks. Now have a diesel Colorado 7 and nearly forget the boats there it does it so easily. Ron
  14. Looks to me like the lower numbers on the leg still has decimal point for 7.5. Looks like a fair bit of electrolysis going on as well. Ron
  15. I think you will find a reasonable outfit from a genuine tackle store as there is plenty of specials around at the moment. Get the best you can afford as nothing discourages newbies more than trying to fish with a crappy outfit. The biggest mistake beginners make is to put too heaavy a line on the reel which causes tangles and greatly reduces your casting distance. Ideal starting outfit is 6ft 6in to 7ft 2in 3-4kg rod with 2000 to 2500 reel with at least 3 bearings matched with 3to4kg line. Good luck and good fishing. Ron
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