rozza_b

I have a 2wd workmate hilux that i tow my 4.9m quintrex with it all the time, its the only car i have to do it. Yep have had to re-think my fishing plans a few times when i have got to ramps when they are very average but majority of times im completely fine, be prepared to do a bit of winching evey now and then and recommend using a wheel chock for a bit of security but orherwise youll be fine. My local ramp is terrible for weed etc but i have always managed to make it work, always check the ramp before you launch just to be sure if your worried.

Hi All, Im headed to Fiji in November staying at the international for a family trip and hoping to sneak in some fishing while im over there. Im going to put a spin rod in my bag for some shore fishing, any advice on what lures i should take ? Also after any recommendations on charters for a 1/2 day or day trip while im over there (obviously pms only as per site rules) Cheers

i used just your regular outdoor primer and paint to seal up the standard (not marine) ply I put in the floor of my boat, has lasted will so far but i am planning on re-doing it all as im not particularly happy with the carpet joints. I glued the carpet down with fake grass glue which has been ok and was relatively cheap

Frank, Does this stuff add much weight to the boat or is it more light like paint ?

Umm my guess for a full drive on set up that is custom made to suit the boat maybe $8k-9k, ali trailers sure arent cheap these days

took me and my mate 2 full days to build my trailer in his workshop, with all the parts and materials on hand, i also done all the drilling on hangers etc before we started building. cost me just under $4k in parts and materials, cost price through my mates business that is

I had a tilt trailer for my boat, used it maybe once or twice in 6 years...have a full custom drive on ally trailer now that i made with a mate, comes on and off far easier then my previous trailer and could not justify the need for a tilt, just my opinion though. As for bolt on cross members wish they would do it for all gal trailers would make a trailer last way longer and could just replace the rusted cross members as needed, to make it as strong as welded might require a bit more strengthening around the bolt holes but still seems like a great idea, was planning on doing it to mine before i just decided to replace the whole thing.

i think when i do my floor again which shouldn't be far off i'm going to use thermolite, end up paying more but it will never need to be replaced and requires no sealing or anything and provides a perfect surface to glue to and its lighter then ply of the same size, its worth a look

If you want to get replacement o-rings go to a hydraulics place or a bearing shop, repco etc wont be much use to you generally for that kind of thing

should be able to re-use if the corrosion isnt bad and hasnt chewed the hole out, just make sure you use plenty of tef-gel on them when putting back in after painting

That doesn't seem overly hot for a motor from memory plus if the temp was to high you would get warnings through the forward control module so i wouldn't be hugely concerned, cant help you on what temps you should be getting though, i imagine the temp you would be getting would be off the block.

Honestly that seems expensive to get a bit of welding done and some basic fabrication, i got my whole live bait tank fabricated and installed into the back of my boat for under $500, what are they actually making up ?

As already mentioned your going to install a pickup to make it work while on the move. I cant see from your setup but where does the overflow for the tank go ? i wouldnt ever be putting it back into the bilge, your creating a potential for the bilge to be flooded if something goes wrong, imagine if for some reason you end up filling the whole of your bilge while underway, my overflow goes straight back out the back of the boat. The other thing i think worth mentioning is your switch panel, i know it might be convenient to have there in the back of the boat but i can see it possibly being an issue. if something goes a miss. If you get a bunch of water in the boat and that thing leaks you've potentially compromised your entire electrical system. Personally i wouldn't be putting any switches or terminations down low i know it might be a bit more of a pain to run everything back to you dash but at least then all the switches are up high and not exposed to water in anyway. Plus there a possibility you might kick that box or damage it making it definitely not water tight, just a bit of food for thought.

i can tell you right now there is a massive difference between 91 & 98 ron, try running 91 in any performance car and you will see the difference instantly. Personally i run 98 in my boat, the one time i ran a tank of 91 it played up like no tomorrow, was harder to start & didn't feel as punchy so just went back to 98, have had heaps of people tell me i cant run it in my boat as it will do damage to the motor but not one single person has been able to provide me with an answer as to why it shouldn't be used, i would be lucky to use $15 of fuel most trips so for the extra cost doesn't bother me for a bit of peice of mind, each to their own though. In regards to stabilizers have considered using them due to the amount of time it takes to get through my 60l tank but haven't got round to it yet and still to see any issues from fuel.

Interesting topic, def raises some thoughts around if I should have a braked trailer or not. What I found even more interesting is that it seems aluminium trailers for my boat (4.8m CC Quintrex) are over the 250kg mark when my current trailer has a label saying 180kg