rod1448

MEMBERS
  • Content Count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About rod1448

  • Rank
    MACKEREL
  • Birthday 02/05/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hunter Valley

Recent Profile Visitors

316 profile views
  1. That looks great. I will use a slide, just wasn't sure if it would vibrate and not give a clear reading but if yours worked a treat that's good enough for me. Cheers
  2. Hi all, I was after some advise for transducer placement on a moored boat. I have recently purchased an old Riviera 27 Flybridge and will be placing my Lowrance Elite9 Ti2 on it with the Active Imaging 3in1 transducer. Now has anyone placed this transducer on a slide so that it will come out of the water when not in use? Cons and pro to this method or should I just bite the bullet and get a new through hull transducer. Would these through hull transducer's work or would I require a double transducer if its through hull. Any help would be appreciated as trying to keep cost down for the moment. Next year I will probably upgrade to a better unit and tranny. Cheers Rod
  3. Yes, I do agree with you. It is a catch 22 with these more comfortable vests but not always as safe. Cheers Rod
  4. Hi, Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've always been told and also read it in the instructions to never partially inflate an inflatable life vest as the cannister with the compressed air has the correct amount of air to fully inflate the jacket, hence if the jacket is already half inflated when you pull the cord to release the compressed cannister air it may burst the air bladder in the jacket due to the rapid over inflation. The manual valve is for topping up in the water if required. I guess if you partially inflate it then you must remember if you go overboard to manually finish blowing it up in the water and not use the compressed air cannister. Cheers Rod
  5. Hi, I have a number of these manual inflating jackets of different brands and the date on the air cannister is the manufacturing date, not the expiry date. I don't really know if they have an expiry date, I would think at least 10 years. You should also find a date of manufacture on the jacket itself and it should be simmilar to the cannister date. Cheers Rod
  6. Hi, Thanks for all the info, much appreciated. I currently have a 20ft half cabin SeaRay with a 4.3lt inboard so I have quickly become aware of all the extra costs involved but I guess if it is to do with boating it's not going to be cheap. I was not aware of the heat exchanger in fresh water engines but I guess it is necessary as they don't have fresh running air through them like in cars. I'm also a great believer that if something requires repairing it needs to be done now and not later as you are correct they will only get worse hence more required from your back pocket. Thanks for the offer, you never now I might take you up on it one day after I sell my current boat and closer to buying a larger one. Your Searay looks great on the Pic. Cheers Rod
  7. So 6 weeks makes her very dirty. You must have to take her out for a bit at least fortnightly or so. Ultrasonic antifouling sounds like a great idea as well. Cheers
  8. Cool thanks, that sounds alright for swing mooring the slipping and antifoul doesn't, but I guess it needs to be done. How often do you antifoul, yearly? Do you know how much is slipping on it's own? Cheers Rod
  9. Hi Ben, Yes I have, but not sure yet if I will be swing mooring or not due to the high fees. What are the fees like at Brooklyn? and have you any prices on antifouling? What made you pick a Riv? Just that I have not decided on make yet. Cheers Rod
  10. Thanks, that's what worries me with an older boat. I know it can still happen with a newer boat but chances are higher with the older ones. I will have to get it surveyed and inspected by a good reliable mechanic. Cheers
  11. Great, thanks for all your help. Cheers Rod
  12. Thanks heaps for all your help. I will have to look at some Mariners, probably both 31 and 34 footers as I don't know the difference besides size, and obviously some smaller ones as well. I have also heard that Berties are good as well. BTW how long did it take to sail from I'm assuming Brisbane Waters to Darling Harbour and how much fuel did she use. I mainly boat in Botany Bay and Sydney Harbor as she is on a trailer and easy to move about but when I get a larger boat she will be moored in Botany Bay and I would still like to take her to Sydney Harbour. In Google Earth I measured from Broken Bay heads to Watson Bay Heads about 32km and from Botany Bay heads about 21km. So if I know how long it took you in your 31 footer it would give me an idea. Thanks.
  13. Hi David, Thanks for your help. That makes sense, how much did the marine survey cost? Is it a requirement for insurance? Good idea anyway. Twin motors would make her very maneuverable, and how is she with fuel? In your opinion when you look at a boat, how many engine running hours would you consider to many in diesel and petrol motors. I'm not sure how to relate it to car mileage because when you look at a boat say with 500hrs which seems like a lot to me and average it's speed to say 18 knots that means it has traveled just under 17,000km which for a car is nothing. But then boat motors rev a lot higher than car engines when cruising. How far out wide do you take her? Does she handle it well? Not a bad innings 16 boats in 20 years, so I guess I'm speaking to the right bloke. Well I have a bit of food for thought now.
  14. Hi David, Thanks for your reply. The reason for newer than 12yrs is that I have heard a few stories about fibreglass rot and then also the engine should be more reliable, emphasis on the should. I guess I would need to look around as you say, I will probably get a lot more boat for the money. Can I ask what your boat is? It actually looks great in the picture. Yes the diesel would be a lot better but looking around in boatpoint there doesn't seem to be many about. But I do agree it would be better specially for an older boat. I don't know much about shaft drives, so they are more reliable? Why is that, I'm assuming the gear box is in the boat with the motor? With a shaft drive, is that when you have a rudder for steering? How hard is it then to steer when docking etc. as you would need some water speed to turn. Do you then require bow thrusters etc. for ease of maneuverability when docking in tight areas? Thanks for your help. Cheers Rod