zmk1962

Bear, I would definitely have the impeller replaced or make sure the dealer did this as part of their service. Also make sure the lower leg oil was replaced. My honest opinion is that, while it is most ideal that outboards are used frequently - they are actually quite robust - as long as the basics were covered when they were used (ie they were flushed out when in salt, did not have water in fuel etc). If this motor had 200-300hrs use and then was laid up - I'd be really concerned - especially if it was laid up out in the sun and weather where the rubber components are likely to perish. But even then, thinking to my 1999 model black Merc that has only ever lived outside and has baked in 45+C weather - I have never had to replace cracked fuel lines or tubes, and I'm still running original lower hub seals etc. So looking at a motor that had only done 17hrs and then sat in a garage?? Honestly, if the basics that @Stanton44 has highlighted have been taken care of, I'd ask for the thermostats to be changed - check for salt build up -it should be negligible if only 17hrs use, I'd have the compression checked out, then if she kicks over and fires up - when settled into an idle make sure there are no knocking sounds (no bearing issues)... if all that checks out then I'd say she is pretty good. If you can get someone to test the alternator/charging circuit ...then that will give you piece of mind that the electricals have not perished... all the better. In my experience outboards are generally pretty robust - and sitting undercover is a bonus. I guess the negatives are stacked up against the dealer - Brooker out of business, popular belief that idle outboards can be trouble etc etc. I smell some bargaining power in your favour if you like the rig. Cheers Zoran

I'm not sure how @blindmullet does it, but I have used whippy rods and handlines as a youth (low funds = improvisation) to catch both mud crabs and blue swimmers. Grab a nylon stocking, put some sausage mince (like a third to half a fat sausage) in to the stocking and tie it so you have a ball of bait at the bottom then cut the stocking so you have 20-30cm dangly strands - the more the better. Hook the ball of bait onto a flathead rig (running sinker to long shank hook) and lob it out onto the crab grounds. Leave a bit of slack line and watch the line being taken - give them plenty of time - let the crab tangle itself in the stocking. If your using a whippy rod, keep an eye on the tip, you'll get a nice bend when the crab picks up the bait and starts to move off with it. Do a test lift - if you feel weight chances are they are tangled - if not drop back down. Reeling in - best to do a quick smooth motion to get them up off the bottom and keep them off the bottom - if they are tangled its a pretty easy landing, if not, but they are hanging on remember they rarely let go until near the surface - so keep a scoop net near by. On rare occasions I have even had them hooked through the little mandible near their mouth - go figure! BTW, it gets interesting when a ray or eel goes for the bait stocking or not....hahaha ...the memories of youth! Cheers Zoran

Yup... I took a conduit flange and glued a stub of conduit into it (so it protruded about 20mm out of the flange). Then using a bandsaw I split the flange and stub of conduit down the middle. Placed the two halves around my light pole, slid it up into place and used a s/s hose clamp to tighten it into place. Imagine this upside down with a 20mm tail of conduit out of the bottom for the hose clamp. The flat top gave me plenty of surface area to bolt a plastic sheet (which I cut from stiff waterproof plastic flashing). Experimented with different sizes / shapes until the shadow was where I wanted it. Cheers Zoran

When you talk about the effect of turns on your prop you are probably thinking about ventilation- sucking in air into the prop. That is different to cavitation. Prop cavitation occurs when very low pressure is created at the front of the prop blades - where water enters the blades. This low pressure makes gas bubbles “boil” out of the water reducing grip and thrust. Some reasons cavitation can occur are if the prop blade angle is to sharp for the revs (overpitched) or if the motor is mounted too high and not getting enough water flow to the front of the prop. Ventilation and cavitation are often confused but they are two different phenomena- both damaging. https://uk.boats.com/how-to/propeller-cavitation-propeller-ventilation/ Cheers Zoran

Awesome..glad you braved the weather Rick. I wanted to but ended up being stuck lopping the neighbours tree overhang. Jealous. Cheers Z

I had the same problem on my 16ft savage and on my Haines 635L. On the Haines it was particularly bad as the cabin superstructure (the foredeck) is white so the reflecting glare from the light on the white fibreglass was absolutely blinding at night. In both cases, until I permanently relocated the light up high on a rocket launcher, I found the following to be an adequate solution. I cut and fitted a flat sheet of plastic under the light so that it cast a shadow across my windscreen / and cabin foredeck. The light was still visible 360deg, but it could not shine directly below as the flat plastic bib cast a shadow over the screen and foredeck. Give it a go, Cheers Z

Hey @MerryFisher hope you postback with the outcome of your conversations with the dealer and solas. I for one am really interested in how this is resolved. Your hull looks like an awesome layout and it would be a shame not to have it performing optimally. BTW maybe this topic should be renamed to “Improving Hole Shot”. A Solas prop is just one approach. Best of Luck. Zoran

Yup. The extra bolts are locknut permanent mounts. I’ve seen a few boats with a wood or plastic spacer above the stern to accommodate a higher mount. Hope that extra height gives you the clearance you need. Cheers Z

Hi @Fab1, Personally I have not seen anyone pulled over between dusk and dawn - infact I see very few MSB boats around during night shift. BUT that does not mean the rulers and rule books would not come out if there was an accident, insurance claim etc. where all these types of things would be investigated as they come under the skippers duty of care or lack of. I have also seen on occasion boats with NO lights - which scares the living crap out of me. I remembered the Boating Handbook specified the rules and they were different depending on boat length. So I looked it up over my coffee this morning -- page 60 of the NSW Handbook: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/maritime/licence/boating-handbook.pdf Here it is for vessels under 12m: You need to achieve this light configuration: For vessels under 12m, you can use an all round white light 360deg if you can mount it 1m above the side lights and its unobstructed. OR .... You can achieve the 360deg un-interrupted white light arc by having a 225 arc and a 135deg stern light. this allows a break in the white light arc where your body or other obstructions will not interfere with it. Cheers Zoran

Hey Mattyau, I was just thinking about this over dinner - it looks like your motor may be mounted a bit low - if you could raise it a bit then it would allow the handle to hang more vertically - maybe enough to get the tilt you're after. You can google your specific motor, but generally the anti-ventilation plate (cavitation plate) should ideally be about 1in (2.54cm) below the hull. From the pictures it looks like yours is much lower - can you lift it an inch or two? Do you have sufficient stern height left at the motor well? Also, rather then remove the entire hatch, can you just cut out the corner that is impinging on the handle? Cheers Z

Hi Mattyau, I know you are talking to dealers, but ultimately it is a factory warranty. I suggest you send an email to Honda (usually the technical department) explaining your specific problem and that in your case the handle is really not required for a fixed mount situation. Specifically ask them to confirm in writing that the warranty will not be impacted if the handle is removed as you are getting conflicting replies from dealers. They should help you here. I'll leave ally boat owners to help out with your other installation questions as I'm more experienced with glass boats. Cheers Z

Yeah but was the NO to the topic or to being a mod??? 😂

Great write up and great result ! Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to many more reports with results like that. Cheers Zoran

BAHAHA.... Sam Sam Sam.... I reckon that would be a great topic for YOU to kick off as a separate thread... and I'm sure Donna would let you start it only if you volunteered be a moderator to handle the extra posts and vigorous discussion !!! 😂 Cheers Z

I can see lots of family fun there - well done and congrats. Look forward to the reports (when the weather clears!). Cheers Zoran