fisherman666

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Everything posted by fisherman666

  1. My advice would be don't drive it til is fixed Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
  2. Great information! Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
  3. I still think you should just chuck in the std 12 mm cheap ply. Doesn't affect the boat structurally at all. If you are concerned about the rot, just use manageable size floor pieces and pull the floor out between trips. Takes me 2 mins to pull out my floor (4.5 m tinny CC). Last a very long time if you do that Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
  4. I didn't rate my LEDs on the roof bar anyway. Too much reflection off the bull bar, bonnet and uhf antenna Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
  5. It's in ADR 13/00. Can't have em up there sorry mate. Driving Lights have to be at the FRONT of the vehicle. And it doesn't matter how nice you are to the copper or how many excuses you have up your sleeve. If they have bothered to turn on the red and blue and stop you then they will just issue the defect. I know coz they got me. Never gave me a chance to say a word. I've taken them off. Thinking of fitting em on the bow of the boat Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
  6. This is the internal bracing I was thinking of.
  7. Hi all, I have recently bought an older Stacer 4.5m CC with 50hp 2 stroke. An oldy but a goody. 1.9 m beam and fairly deep hull. It passed it's first water test last week with flying colours but any second hand motor is always a bit of an unknown right. [Correction, any motor can die at any time if Murphy is with you]. This motor is a 1997 Force "By Mercury marine" Taking it to the NT next month (moving there permanently for work) and I am gonna get me a barra of course. Maybe even a million dollar fish. That would be nice Some of the fishing I'll be doing will be remote river work, long kays, and no marine rescue etc. So I plan to fit my trusty suzuki 8 to make me feel warm and fuzzy. Safety with the snapping handbags is a big factor here too. I have an old aux bracket which is made of hot dipped gal steel. I plan to rebuild it by fitting new gal bolts and a good clean and paint. Maybe new springs if I can find some. SS bolts through the transom though of course. First question Is it a no-no to have the gal against the transom? Galvanic corrosion right? What would you insulate with? A chopping board? Ply? How thick? Second question How do I brace the inside of the transom? I was thinking to do it like in this photo I found on google (photo of f/glass boat). Have two ally angles vertically inside right up against the transom. Should I have it welded in there top and bottom OR will just the aux bracket bolts (4 of) do the job to spread the load? Or should I angle back to the fuel tank holding frame on the floor? I want this setup to be trailerable. I could do this on the starboard side (preferred) but not port side as my in-use fuel tank goes port side. Third question I want to fit the engine to starboard side. Is this OK? I know I am making life hard for myself as the anchor light will need to be moved and also the finder/transducer is starboard. Minor issues though as the it will clear the transducer and I can always move the light. I just imagine it would be hard to turn right with the motor port side. Just picture me hanging outside of the boat over the crocs. I want to avoid any part of me outside of the boat of course. Fourth question Is this set up OK to be trailerable. I will fit a spring to the lowering handle of the aux bracket. This way it can't drop down whilst trailering. I am good with the tools and have access to a good workshop just want to get it right first time. There is just so much to consider to get this right first time. Any good advice out there?
  8. I think using braid would be counter productive. Bust offs are part of the game and it takes you more time to get a bait back in the water. 20lb mono straight through mate. braid floats when you want it to sink.
  9. I love a successful rock fishing report! What baits did the damage?
  10. Very funny seasponge. I'm glad I posted this as general interest. I suspected others had seen similar before. Interesting about the notch back.
  11. Thought I'd show this weird bream I caught today. Funny looking jaws and a dent in the top of the head. Never seen one like it! It's survival of the fittest for a fish so I figured he managed to look after himself all these years to get to legal size. Otherwise looks healthy enough so on the plate he goes. Caught near Lower Portland on local prawn.
  12. Good squid. Still on my to-do list!
  13. G'day there, I'd like to give my 2 cents but it's not a good 2 cents. It is well established that you should never lay a weld transverse on the upper or lower surfaces of a draw bar beam. This is where the most flex is present. (Longitudinally is considered ok but personally I don't like that the manufacturer has welded the 2 chain links on the top of the a-frame especially considering they're not even being used). There has been many a box, boat, camper trailer been DIYd by the home welder and cracked under severe operating conditions such as corrugated roads. This is why your winch post and jockey wheel are bolted on. Now of course you haven't welded your trailer but what you have done is create a number of stress raisers in the worst possible place being on the top of the a-frame. This pictured I just googled, but it shows the stress concentration around a hole. The red being the direction cracks would begin. I'm not saying your trailer is definitely going to crack at the holes as you may not drive rough roads and it depends on lots of factors such as how much strength is left, weight of the boat. There may be bucket loads of strength left. I'm not an engineer but I do work with them and knowing what I know as a non destructive testing technician (crack detection) I would not have done this personally. I would have mounted angle brackets either using square u bolts or drilled and tapped into the vertical sides of the draw bar. In theory you can 'repair' ie reduce your stress concentration by fitting interference bushes into the holes. Other than the location of your holes I love what you have done here. Makes it much easier to recover the boat safely and with dry shoes
  14. I enjoyed reading this report Sam bros. Makes me want to stop using excuses and get out there!
  15. Nice fish there mate. Have yet to catch a black drummer
  16. Well done on the flathead. Nice little reel that one.
  17. I threw my last salmon head back in the surf...should of brought it home for him.
  18. I like your report and good result on the fishing too! Salmon gut as bait hey...do your hands still stink?