2sheds

Hi Xuanhong2..... Tinkicka raises some valid points in that any repairs may ultimately fail however from what I can see it is the male portion of the ferrule which has cracked not the female. You have nothing to lose by attempting a repair because to purchase a replacement for the damaged section will likely cost as much as a totally new rod. I am assuming the warranty period has expired. I would simply glue a short length of dowel inside the damaged ferrule using a good quality epoxy. Take care not to force fit the dowel otherwise it will cause the crack to widen and then not allow the male ferrule to fit into the female ferrule after your repair is complete. You could fashion the dowel from cutting up an old no-good fishing rod. Don't make the dowel too long or it won't allow the rod to bend as designed. Good luck with it, the repair could last 10 minutes or ten years. My 2c......Twosheds

Hi Guiness.... there are self storage units at Taylors Beach (Trades Court and Shearwater Dr) and Salamander Bay (George Rd) that do cater for caravan and boat storage but I think it is mainly longer term by the month rentals however it couldn't hurt to ring and ask about shorter term. These are about a 15 minute drive from Shoal Bay. There is also another caravan and boat storage business at Bobs Farm which you will drive past on your way into the Bay but its a fair way from Shoal Bay. Can't think of any other options at this time. Have you tried asking the staff at the Ramada reception??, I'm sure you will not be the first person with this issue and they may offer another solution. Regards... Twosheds

Hey slothy... I swim under that jetty nearly every day. Don't you be throwing shark baits in the water and enticing them in close. Regards...2sheds

Hi GF Looks like mealybug or scale, neither of which is a fungus but a little type of insect thingy that feeds by sucking sap from the plant. Both are easily controlled with those RTU (ready to use) spray bottles from a nursery or bunnings. Look for Eco-oil or Yates Spray Gun or something similar with a spray oil in it. They are pretty safe and work by coating the insect with oil and they basically suffocate. They will need to be applied a few times a week or so apart to kill all the little blighters. Once they are all dead you can wipe them off your plant with some dampened cotton wool. Hope this helps 2sheds

If you do re register the trailer in NSW don't forget the $42 (or thereabouts) for the new rego plate because it has been unregistered for more than 3 months. Regards Twosheds

Blood and guts on the carpet - thoroughly wet carpet with garden hose on jet to loosen the gunk. Dissolve a generous amount of napisan in a bucket of warm water and tip over the carpet. Scrub with a stiff brush (I use a timber decking brush) then leave for an hour or so to allow the napisan to soak in. Another quick scrub with the brush then hose off with the jet. This dissolves all the embedded fish guts and blood and gets rid of that fishy smell. I use the cheaper generic version of napisan and also level the boat using the jockey wheel so the napisan solution stays spread evenly through the carpet and doesn't run to the rear of the cockpit while soaking. I use Mr Sheen spray for vinyl and clears. Hope this helps Twosheds

Hi Squidboy This is a common problem with this type of Humminbird mount. The mount is designed to kick up if the transducer hits an object to prevent damage to the transducer. Unfortunately just normal cruising speed in a small chop offshore was enough to cause mine to kick up. I was constantly pushing it back down into position. And after it kicks up the first time the plastic tabs in the mount seem to weaken and even less force is required for it to kick up again until eventually the tabs break. I was replacing mounts every 4-5 months which became a bit exxy. This is compounded by the need for the transducer to be mounted fully in the water flow (ie deep - exactly as the instructions show) for the sounder to work at speed which does expose it to a fair force from the water. My solution was to drill a small hole through the mount parallel to the stainless steel bolt which is shown in your photos. (Sorry I don't have any photos of mine to post). Through this hole I poked a small cable tie. The cable tie was then looped behind where the mount attaches to the transom and tightened up. I did file a small groove in the back of the mount to enable the cable tie to pass between the mount and the transom. Been going for 3 years now without a problem. Just another small hint. When the transducer is mounted correctly in the water flow it will send up quite a spray of water onto the side of the outboard. No spray and it is not deep enough. I had to mount an aluminium spray deflector on the transom above the transducer as I was worried about the volume of water hitting the outboard. Available from online boating suppliers for about $25 or thereabouts. Mine will hold the bottom at 20 knots plus in a smallish chop offshore. Hope this helps Regards Twosheds