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Everything posted by SquidMarks

  1. they are split between sydney, the central coast and jervis bay so it will take me a while to get a photo of all of em together but i will persevere! My father has the 651c5 for those sharking sessions...
  2. looks like the 50 A5E is a keeper then for when i decide to dip my toes into the dark art of blackfishing (or bream fishing using the alvey!). PS: Im a big fan of alveys, own (and use) a 700c5, 650a5, 650c5, 2 x 6500bcvrr, 600a, 550a5 and a 650grbc. (though i must admit, the grbc feels a bit like you are winding up an air raid siren, but once that inertia is overcome, the line starts laying on thick and fast!)
  3. on a side note, are these rare at all? i have one at home and have never gotten around to using it (have not seriously tried fishing for blackfish yet).
  4. Give me red rock cod any day....... there is a reason why they are known as 'poor mans lobster'
  5. I have managed to catch a legal snapper on a squid jig, almost caught a fairy penguin too! (little bugger came up with the jig in his mouth but managed to spit it before he hooked himself).
  6. Love how that video just shamelessly shows the shortcomings in safety back in the day. shooting off glass fibres and the dust mask is protecting his forehead! Poor bugga probably ended up with silicosis... They sure make boat building look easy though...
  7. Thanks savit, thats a great start, still looking for pictures of tube and squirt worms.
  8. Though i can always stock up on beach worms, i never really tried going for blood, squirt or tube worms. I have pumped some really fat red worms with hairly 'legs' from an estuary before but i had no idea what they were (broke easily into a lot of pieces). Can anyone help with a photo of a blood, tube and squirt worm (google results show too many different kinds of worms for each of those so i dont know what im looking at). Also, a photo of their respective holes and areas found would be much appreciated! (hopefully this becomes a 'worm' sticky once the info is here!) Thanks!
  9. SquidMarks


    Chris, I do a fair bit of worming at your mentioned beaches. Its good that you caught the bug and want to give it a go, but can i suggest you wait till summertime? It takes a fair while to get your first worm (is a bit like riding a bike), and nothing saps your morale faster than watching worms continually slip through your fingers while you are freezing cold. Having said that, i worm year round when im up there and im happy to show you the next time im there. I use my fingers and my technique is a bit different so i wont go into too much detail as i know all different information can confuse (and frustrate) a newcomer to worming. I actually find it a lot easier to catch worms with fingers than with pliers (plus i believe that with pliers, any escaped worms have a smashed up head which essentially means that any worms you may have missed might be dead soon!). Good luck with it! I might be up there i a few weeks if you are still keen!
  10. That you dabbling in the nudist area eh Rick?!? 😄 Seen any big 'beach worms' round there!!!??? 🤣 All jokes aside, there are big worms there! Agree on the big bream at Hargreaves, especially this time of year. Funny thing is most folks are going for salmon when in fact there are quality fish there if you change up the bait and rig.
  11. I have had success with Reds out of the hacking, i hope you dont mind but i wont divulge where im fishing! Having said that, im fairly confident that all those reefs would hold snapper. The points which will determine your success IMO: 1. Time - first light till sunrise and sunset till last light being the prime time (i never caught a decent Sydney red in the middle of the day). 2. Date -these winter months going into early spring are best! (July in particular fires for me out of the Hacking). 3.Position - target the deeper edges of the reefs (nothing but reef fish like wrasses and sergeant bakers on the top of those reefs). I prefer to hit areas where reef meets sand. i pretty much use a 3/8 oz jighead with a 3/0 hook for 20-30m and a 1/4 oz jighead with a 3/0 hook for 12-20m (you can tell i fish the 12-30m zones). 4 (most important) - Read ANY/ALL posts on snapper fishing (and their reports) by scratchie and rickmarlin. (Scratchie brilliantly covers tactics and lure types as well in addition to the things i have mentioned above. Rickmarlins squid catching fishing reports (for snapper bait) opened my eyes to the importance of fresh bait for snapper, as well as scratchies fishing reports which always seem to start out with a trip to the LBG).... The Hacking reefs can feel really barren when you are not in the right place at the right time! Good luck!
  12. You should see me burly up the dogs when im waving the stink around while beach worming! Geez thats always fun! They come around, have a sniff and a lick of the stink bag, tread all over the spot where i just saw a worm and decide to try runaway with my staked stink bag while im getting the worm. Some sit next to me as if hoping i would give them some, and others just look at me longingly for a piece of pilly. Its all part of the fun, the owners usually rush over and try get the dog away from the stink bag, i usually give the dogs a few pats and everyone is on their merry way. The dog is an animal, not a remote control toy, it has instincts and will do what opportunistic animals do. (reminds me of a time when one pooch decided to go into my worming bucket and eat a few beach worms, was very funny watching the owners face as this dog is running around with a metre of worm still sticking out of its mouth and she is trying to get it to drop the worm!) Most dog owners are apologetic, me, i tell em not to worry, it is an animal after all.
  13. I get their usefulness, i think they are the bees knees when they work (especially in game fishing when you need to reverse on fish). The problem is, you just dont see that on a 5m ally boat (stacer 5 m boats have scuppers with unsealed decks) . THE FOLLOWING is what i have a problem with.. the thought of a days fishing in winter with my feet permanently submerged in an inch of water all day. Does not sound like a fun day to me.
  14. Fair enough, thought the deck was not sealed because i have seen the scuppers on the stacer boats with unsealed decks. Maybe a weak ss spring to hold the ball in place (stops allowing the leaves etc to jam up. That or creating a semi permanent seal (like bungs). seems like they are not of much use on the water and would just be used in washing down.
  15. sounds like fun...... For you blokes with scuppers, wouldnt you be better off just permanently sealing those bloody things if you need to clean em every month? If you are more likely to get water in through them leading to a dangerous situation then i would be sealing them, you can always empty your boat out through the bungs when stray water comes in, its not like the deck is sealed or anything anyways...
  16. I have had 2 of the original stradic Ci4 4000's and two shimano original rarenium ci4 2500 for over 5 years, fish them hard and never had an issue like that! I have replaced the roller bearings on them a few times each but i cant figure out for the life of me how salt water managed to get in the anti revese bearings for you. (it has to get in under the spool, through the gap between the shaft and pinion gear mechanism and then into the anti reverse bearings). Are you sure a mate of yours didn't accidentally dunk the reel?
  17. any chance of a couple more photos of the area affected? Im beginning to suspect that the guide feet leading into the binding have not been given enough epoxy resulting in a cavity where water can reach the underside of the guide, pool and rust away.... This can happen on either side of the guide feet where the binding has to rise to meet the foot as its wound around the rod blank, leaving a gap between the binding and the blank. The other posibility is a lack of epoxy applied to the inside ends of the guide feet, allowing water to enter under the epoxy/feet, pooling and rusting away. That or the manufacturer used a metal file/grinder when grinding down the guide ends leaving microscopic iron filings (or impregnating the stainless guides with the filings) and the result is the rust you see.. I must say i have built a few rods and i dont have this issue (but i do use a high viscosity epoxy which requires more coats but allows for better penetration into cavities, i take the time to ensure that epoxy wicks into the cavity between the guides and binding on my first coat. I also keep guides away from steel files and bench grinders which are not suitable for stainless. EDIT: The epoxy should not discolour like that on its own, any discolouration in the epoxy would be uniform throughout and the discolouration would lead to yellowing rather than that characteristic rusted effect. Im guessing it has picked up the discolouration due to some oxidation occurring somewhere...
  18. agree 100% my fav fish to sashimi if looked after from point of capture to table.
  19. Hi guys, Im in a bit of a situation trying to help out my father in law with a trim issue on his 2016 90HP 4 stroke Mercury outboard. The problem is that the motor loses trim when you go higher than 10 knots or so (it trims itsself down, im guessing due to the thrust from the prop applying pressure to the hydraulic pump). You can trim up at 10 knots or so but as soon as you stop trimming up, the boat begins dropping trim fast. The trim level does not drop at low speeds. There is no hydraulic leak anywhere that we can find, likewise, we have purged the trim mechanism a few times to ensure there is no air in the system. We tried a soap spray over the ram and associated hydraulic trim components and this did not show any air leak (not that this would happen, but when you start running out of ideas you begin trying everything!). We have tried leaving the motor trimmed up on dry land overnight to see if it would drop overnight ( like a small leak may) but the motor did not drop overnight at all. We have even taken the motor to a dealer to have it looked at and he thinks that there is nothing wrong with the trim/tilt mechanism, thats how its supposed to work!? I am having a hard time accepting that the trim on an outboard is meant to drop when travelling at more than 10 knots or so. Does anyone have any suggestions we may have missed?
  20. Hi Guys, Just wanted to revive this post to see how the reef are doing? has anyone tried them out yet?
  21. I tackled a spongy ply floor replacement a few years back (end of 2015). replaced the floor with marine grade aluminium with regupol stuck on top. Its still going strong and is as good as the day i finished the job! The regupol is super grippy (is that a word?). Love hosing down the inside of my boat without fear of the old floor (marine ply with carpet) rotting away. here is a link to the last page in my post showing the job. https://www.fishraider.com.au/topic/79115-aluminium-boat-floor-thickness/?page=3
  22. I would say that is true about 60-70% of the time. The worms are there on the steep and coarse beaches, its a matter of worming on a really low tide. When i take my worms from these coarse and shelly beaches and go fishing at say Budgewoi Beach/jewfish point, the sand that the worms are in looks dark yellow and grainy/shelly compared to the sand at the above mentioned beach. You are also more easily fooled into thinking there are no worms at the shelly and grainy step beaches as the worms poke their heads out for a fraction of a sec when burleying (as opposed to very flat beaches where the worm is waving his head around like an idiot looking for that morsel that just drifted past). Coupled with the extra false positives from all the shells, rocks and grit making V's in the receding waves and it becomes easy to overlook or pass up a good worming beach. Just to prove a point that they can be found in all sorts of areas, I also worm at a beach in Sydney INSIDE an estuary (not an ocean beach) where the waves rarely reach more that half a meter, and most of the time its a piddly 30cm wave lapping the beach. It is here that monster thick beach worms are found (not the long slimy ones). They are accessible on the lowest tides and in only a 30-50 meter stretch along this particular beach which is much larger. Go before or after this 50 meter stretch and you would swear that there is nothing there. The beach looks uniform throughout and im not sure why they can only be found in that small stretch, my best guess is that the tidal current must bring more food to this particular part of the beach. This spot is my go to worm beach when targeting Jew and i need a few XXL worms to do the job. Most of my spots have been found blindly waving a burley bag in all sorts of places, you should do the same. When you find a new reservoir of worms you notice just how abundant they should actually be (compared to some of the pillaged beaches along our coast). I have added an old pic of the calibre of worms found at this beach (and this isnt the biggest, those i cant pull out for the life of me!!!).
  23. The wharf at the ramp holds em. Burley up and grab a few using size 10-12 hooks with either no sinker or the smallest split shot on 2kg mono. Best time is dawn, during the day they seem to scatter a bit and are hard to get. Use a tiny bit of peeled prawn or a tiny piece of a filleted pillie. The trick is to make your bait look and behave in the water column exactly the same as the other thousands of pieces of burley floating around. Good luck!