Captain Spanner

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  1. Try for the worms along Hawks Nest beach. You should be able to catch bream, whiting, flathead, salmon, tailor off Hawks Nest Beach and similar off Jimmy's but obviously its a rough beach vs a bay at Hawks Nest. You can also get squid at Jimmy's if the ribbon weed is within casting distance. Method for beach worms is simple in theory but i am very bad at extracting them. Any stinky fish in an onion bag or stocking works. Take or use a tough hand bait like squid or pipi to get the worm to bite to bring it up a bit more before grabbing. Some guys use the stocking as the hand bait too.
  2. I've never let one off but i have heard if you ever do need to let one off out in the wind and waves you will probably wish you had a pair of welding gloves in the flare bag and maybe not be wearing anything too flammable and plasticy while you are holding it and it's burning and throwing sparks all over you.
  3. Just a tip for anyone salting their own fillets for the first time in the fridge. Make sure your tray/bowl/dish is at least a couple of inches deep. It is very easy to underestimate the amount of fluid that comes out of the fillets. If your dish is too shallow then the fish juice can fill up the tray and can overflow, spilling into the rest of the fridge and the veggie crisper.
  4. Look up the schematic and write down the part numbers. Then call them or email them and you can get a quote or order straight away. Very easy. They post it out very quickly too.
  5. If you haven't done it much before then you probably wont know the wall very well and where all the snags are, even if you do you will still lose alot of gear. Take alot of leader and alot of lures. If there has been quite a bit of rain (dirty water and bait getting flushed out of the river) or the surf is big with lots of foam then you could give hard bodies (bibbed minnows) a go. Typically 150mm-200mm length. Otherwise you will probably have more consistent luck with plastics, typically 1/2 oz to 2oz heads depending on how fast it is running and the size of the paddle tail. Try plastics from 5"to 8". Start with paddletails but have some jerk shad patterns too. As you are trying to work the lure near the base of the wall you will get alot of snags. As such, you will need a leader knot you can tie quickly (i use type of albright). FGs and PRs are great but they take a long time to tie, especially when you might be tying one every second cast until you figure out where the snags are. An hour either side of the tide change will be the easiest to fish and be mindful that the water will not necessarily slow/stop/change direction when you think it should by reading the tide chart. It often appears to change up to a couple of hours after the tide chart depending on the river and the tide at the time. Also be careful of brown snakes in the walls, especially if it is warm. We saw one swim from one wall to the other at Forster in January.
  6. I'm sure you've heard more tips than anyone with your experience in the boating world but i"ll throw in my two cents. I've always been prone to getting sea sick but rarely actually get sick these days unless it is pretty rough and or we get a catergory 5 tangle in the wash zone and i have to sort it out. I have it at least 45 minutes before ill be in the rough water (i'm fine in the river and bay and in mild conditions inshore). Other tips are eat a normal breaky (dry eg toast with honey or similar) is better if you need everything going for you) but I still drink coffee) and try to go to the toilet before you get on the boat, it puts your guts in much better standing for the day. Keep snacking on salty stuff, drink ginger beer etc, do not look down if possible, always look out at the horizon, put your phone in the glove box and let someone else read the sounder and do untangling jobs. If you are woozy drifting or anchor, go for a little drive, let the sick person drive if capable.
  7. I think so too. They also call them Bar Cod. Often targeted in 150-200m depth on the mid north coast but get much bigger.
  8. I would not have two spools 4lb apart for the same reel in this case. It's just circumstance that i have two outfits close together. I use the outfit for snapper fishing mainly, often in 60m of water over gravel. So i went down a bit in line just to if it would help sink rate of plastics etc. plus i don't really need 20lb of stopping power in that situation. I would run 20lb braid and 10lb or 12lb braid if i had two spools for the one reel for your application. I do have a second spool for that reel now, i just haven't put line on it yet. It obviously depends what braid you are talking about too. I use Sunline Momentum 4X4 pretty much from 10-20lb on these reels (2500-4000) (It's not as buoyant as other braids, better for plastics and squidding). It's out of production now and i' m converting to J-Braid 8-strand.
  9. I have a combo that is a 4000 stradic CI4 on a Crucis Travel Rod 7'11" four piece. 4-7kg that could do everything that you have said and fit the budget including line. If you go towards the higher end of your budget you could get a second spool off shimano and put a different braid, or half braid/half mono or mono straight through. Then you could run a 10 lb braid spool (longer casting distance with lighter weights) and 20lb braid spool off the same outfit. This essentially gives you two outfits for the space of one when travelling. It should come with it's own rod bag and tube but you can make them easy out of PVC or just use the bag. Mine fits diagonally in my big suitcase (just) I used to run 20lb braid and now run 16lb I have another 20lb outfit on a heavier rod. I fish it as a snapper rod or light rod for kings. It will easily cast a range of weights and has balls to fight fish, easy bottom bash (bait) 4oz leads if you need to. Like all rods that are slightly cheaper, just make sure you wash the guides properly so prevent corrosion. I think there are two models of these rods around that have different guides so make sure you get the ones you want.
  10. As mentioned above, you do not want a timber spike/butt if you don't need it and are always holding the rod, also if you are bait fishing off the beach then 12' will keep the line out of the shorebreak better than 10'. You could look at a few things to solve your issues. The Prevails are a well built rod and nice to use but can get heavy to hold. The Shimano Aerowave Graphite in heavy (13' three piece, marked at 8-15kg) should do most things the 12' 12-20kg Prevail does but may feel lighter in the hand and is slightly cheaper. It casts those weights easily and also handles a big load well. Regardless of the rod you choose you might want to look at some type of belt to rest the rod butt in both waiting for a bite and fighting fish. I have a 40mm PVC pressure cap (two holes drilled in the rim) tied with VB cord to a webbed belt (plastic clip buckle from bunnings). The VB cord ties onto one hip, goes through the drilled hole on each side of the rim of the PVC pressure cap and then up to the other hip. The length of your rod butt and how your reel is seated will determine how far you have the cap hang down but mine is about between my knees. You would need a 50mm PVC pressure cap for a Prevail because the rubber butt cap is too big for a 40mm cap. You can fight fish with the rod in it too. If you load the rod in the right way you can sort of "sit" you weight on the butt of the rod to exert pressure against the fish. I always use this belt and have made some for my mates, they really do take alot of weight off your arms waiting for bites.
  11. If the question is which lures give you the best chance of catching a kingfish in the hacking for your 7 Y/O daughter in your tinny I would say have three rods rigged. Rod number one. A 6" sluggo (probably white or similar) rigged on an offset worm hook like they are designed for. Probably run a small cone sinker right down on the hook or no sinker at all. Rod number two. A deep diver in the 8-15cm size range that dives a couple of metres and can have a good action fast or slow. Rod three. A chrome lure like a Raider or Sniper in the 10-40 gram range depending on the size of any visible bait that is around. If you cant see any bait start with a 10 or 15 gram. If you can handle trolling three then that is great. Otherwise just troll two. Have the sluggo right out the back and have the diver closest to the boat. You would have the chromie somewhere in between if you have three. Make sure you have a swivel on or above the chromie. A speed of 3-4 knots should see these guys generally get along depending on the diver. If you get a strike leave the sluggo out to sink down but itself, another fish will often grab it. Troll around the points, drop offs and moored boats in the bays. The drop and moorings around Lilli Pill baths would be a reasonable place to start. The moorings around Yowie Bay also will have fish from time to time. I think generally the kings do hot laps of these places looking for baitfish and squid and if you cross their path with the right size lure then you're in with a shot. An alternative method would be slow trolling a livie on one rod and a fresh or live squid or fresh squid strip on the other rod. Squid with sinker 1.5-2m above the bait, and livie unweighted. Try this around the same locations as mentioned above. These methods should put you in with a shot at bycatch of tailor, salmon, frigates and in season also bonito and mac tuna. If you troll the chromies on spin reels with mono be prepared for twisted line and tangles.
  12. I guess it depends how much time you have available to stray from your path to work. I dont fish the harbour/parra river much at all but i would imagine Rhodes is a bit far up for squid. Maybe bream, Flathead, Jewies? I would imagine you wouldn't want to fish around Brooklyn and then try to drive to work in traffic, that would negate leaving early.
  13. Over the years i have had a number of reels go to shimano for warranty things and have sent many reels to them for service/repair. I have never had anything but great experiences with their service and customer service and it is extremely unlikely i will buy any other brand reel again (except Alvey but that's not the same). I have always been honest with them and never been refused warranty or even questioned over anything. I have TLDs and little aerocasts and that are 25 years old and stradics that are 15 years old that are still great. Sometimes i send them in for a service and sometimes i look up the schematic, write down the part numbers and then ring them up and they post them out, they often put them in the mail that afternoon. The last time i got reel serviced there (March) i dropped them in at about lunchtime and they rang me at 11am the next day and told me they were ready for pickup.
  14. I think this (line stretch) is also part of it. I think when we all use to fish mono right through, a big part of the big strike to set the hook is to max out the stretch in the line as quickly as possible to apply the pressure to drive the hook in. This is not as necessary with braid as the distance the line stretches before it hits the limit and tranfers to the hook is signigicanlty less as you only have about 2-4m of flurocarbon stretching and not 15m to possibly 100m of line (beach and boat fishing).