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Captain Spanner

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Everything posted by Captain Spanner

  1. I have this app too. It's pretty expensive for the paid one but has good animation and good for big picture stuff for offshore like MetEye. It's pretty hectic to get used to as it has alot of info in it.
  2. In line with what i said, keep in mind that if you have strong wind/swell the day/night before you are heading out and it is predicted to drop late that night or in the morning, even if the wind stops it is likely that the sea will still have a wind hangover and be sloppy for a while after the wind stops as the chop continues to travel for some time and distance
  3. My opinions/summary Willy Weather = Closest to what the average conditions of the day will probably be close to the coast. Seabreeze = Closest to what the worst conditions (strongest winds) will be over the coarse of the day close to the coast. Met Eye = Best for offshore to look at the the forecast a few days leading into and the prediction for a few days afterwards to figure out how lumpy it might be coming from wind outside your location. Also does two swells to give a better understanding of how lumpy it might be. You really need to look at all of these sites quite frequently and before and after you go out so you can develop an understanding in your head of what wind strengths/directions and swell height/period/direction will have on the sea surface conditions. If you are heading offshore you can throw the currents into the mix too. A strong north to south current pushing into a short sharp southerly wind/swell will stand up worse than less current or current going with the wind. Similar story for when the swells and winds are going in opposite directions. A good example of this is pretty much any north coast coastal river bar in a north east wind on a run out tide vs a run in.
  4. Assuming you are using squid, squid strips and strip flesh baits i would try the gamakatsu octopus circles. They are close to what you are using but i think they set themselves a little bit better than the standard octopus. I snell them on so the direction of line pull is parallel to the shank. Live baits i still use a single gamakatsu Octopus hook. Just remember to not be tempted to strike with the circles. If you do need to set the hook just wind the reel with the rod flat or at up to 45 degrees until the rod fully loads up, especially if fishing braid.
  5. Hi mate, I know this is an old thread. Did you end up going with that outfit? The 200B on the Kaiten? How did it end up for your application? I'm looking at a similar application but was thinking 15-20lb braid and maybe the Erito Rod (0.8-1.5PE 120g Jig) any comments? It will also end up as a kids bottom bash outfit for flathead, so possibly 180g sinkers on a bad day but not very often and not jigging them. Thanks
  6. You might have been unlucky and sucked up some loose braid/balloon/plastic/weed that has burnt out the motor. Also, if your pickup for the pump sucks air at any stage and gets an air gap in it then it will be running dry and can burn out relatively quickly, especially a cheap one. This can happen if your intake comes out of the water or is subject to bubbles and turbulence when you are driving from spot to spot and are on the plane and leave the pump running. This happens to us. I have to turn the pump off before i drive any speed over a few knots and turn it on when i slow down. Otherwise my pump sucks are and i have to re-prime the line by pouring/forcing water down the line from the bait tank end of the hose. Some pumps are designed to cut-out when they sense they are running dry and then wont turn on for quite a while afterwards, i guess until they cool down. I have had this happen several times and replaced the pump because i thought it was dead, but when i tested it (a few days later when i had bought the new pump) it worked fine. I find Rule pumps to be the best alround for reliability. I had a pump for about 6 years that i used heaps, i had to replace it and sucked a piece of balloon into the new pump first trip and killed it. I replaced that pump and sucked a piece of braid (not mine) first trip and cooked that one. Third time lucky ran for many years without incident.
  7. I haven't noticed alot of issues with releasing other fish like bream, rays, salmon, etc that you catch as bycatch affecting the jewies, just fish from their own school or similar large fish. Similarly I wouldn't advise releasing bream, trevally etc if you are fishing for bream and trevally, i think the tournament guys will often keep the unwanted bream/fish in a seperate live well until they have finished fishing a spot and let them go when they leave the spot.
  8. I have noticed that with Jewies. If you lose or release one i think they take of scared and the school spooks and follows them. It's a bit hard in the boat because you're anchored up and don't want to move, but off the beach we run 100m up the beach to the next gutter to release them. Guys drifting and lure fishing often drive away from where they are catching them to release the fish. They spook very easily.
  9. The Led Lenser SEO7R has a RED LED function. It's a few button presses to get into and out of that mode but that's no problem if that's the one you're mainly using. I avoid using the lights where possible but sometimes it's unavoidable or just easier to use it and readjust your eyes.
  10. I would look at the LED Lenser range. I have a SEO7R. It is perfect for what i use it for. Beach and Boat Fishing. It's light weight, rainproof, easy to use (different modes and adjustable beam), rechargable with the option of putting in AAA batteries if you run out while you're out and don't have a charger. I also have a Petzl NEO that is slightly heavier but more comfortable with the head strap arrangement. I use the petzl Neo if im wearing it constantly without taking it off. I use the Led Lenser if i'm using it occasionally and putting it in my pocket in between. A few things to think about in detail and what your priorities really are. What is your application and what are your prioities? Beach/Boat fishing, walking to fishing spots etc? If so then brighter/stronger isn't always better/necessary. The SEO7R is good for this application. Figure out how important weight/comfort are, the SEO7R is very light. Do you really need 300m range? Are you spotlighting/hunting/searching with it? If not then the power might be a hinderance, especially for your mates or for close range work. If you do need the range maybe look at the Led Lenser H14R.2. It's a bit heavier but has a full head harness. It is more than your budget (about $220) I have a friend that uses one hunting and likes it. If your budget is 3.5 times what you stated you can look at the Led Lenser XEO19R. It has 300m range and all the gadgets. I have not seen one in real life.
  11. I got bit by a live one a couple of years ago on the breakwall at Port Mac. It was about 6kg and i stuck my hand inside it's mouth to try to quickly grab and remove the hook inside it's mouth because i was in a hurry to get my hook back and cast a new bait while the school was there and didn't want to have to get my pliers out of the bag . The fish wash about 6kg. Lots of blood and a bit sore. I have been bitten by dead fish on more than a few occasions over the years.
  12. I've got a Daiwa Gen Black Instant Noodle that is a nice light rod for that type of thing
  13. I'm sorry to hear about your experience with shimano, I have had nothing but outstanding after sales service from shimano the entire time i have fished and will not buy any other brand reel (except my handful of Alveys for their specific purposes). With regards to your reel, I would suggest trying to undo the screw that holds the line roller in and try to re-seat the bail arm in that collar to get it as flush as possible and see if you can close the gap as you re-tighten the screw. You could also look at adding the epoxy as described.
  14. Looks good, I like DIY. I would consider just making the dacron a bit longer and attaching it straight to the sinker loop to leave out the snap and swivel. If you want to continue with the DIY jig then you could snell some tinsel or feathers to the throat of the snapper lead so it looks like a bucktail jig or add reflective or lumo stickers. If you're getting snagged maybe consider having the hook a couple of inches above the sinker.
  15. Out of interest, does that mean you can't drive a boat over 15m with a general boat license? Even private one? So the guys that own the larger game boats would in theory have coxswains tickets?
  16. This could easily be the case, ours has the same problem so we stop/slow down periodically to refresh the water in the tank. You can install pickups to gather the water as you drive but be mindful of how you do this so as not to create a situation that might break part of the pump or rip a hole in the back of you boat to let water in if you run over something. I would say the tank was overcrowded in this case even if the pump was working.
  17. That one on the left is easier to get the rod in and out when you have a fish on. They also make them adjustable (adjust both vertical and horizontal angle). You still get a port and starboard one. I use them all the time for anchored or drifting. Just be mindful of how much drag you have on, I wouldn't have a kingy outfit locked up for example. The weld from the rack to the post is what bends. If you do get a fixed one you can gently bend the weld but i would get an adjust able set. i owned fixed ones for years before the adjustable ones came out. Some of the big marine suppliers stock them. Just be careful putting lighter outfits in there, how they sit. Those holders are designed to hold your rods parallel to the water. I do not ever drive with rods in them.
  18. There are a few huge black rays that live around there. Probably one of those.
  19. Jackets can be anywhere and you only need one in the water to bite the line. Puffer fish and toad fish can do the same thing and there is a chance if you were drifting or wining in that a little tailor has had a snip at your leader knot or even something that has got caught around your line like a little bit of weed or debris. Especially if the line is moving or twitching in the case of the jig head, slug and squid jig. You're other possibility is there is a tiny fracture on one of your guides that is causing damage to your braid or the braid has rubbed on something sharp at some stage in its life and is giving up under the slightest pressure.
  20. Frank, Just to exhaust all suggestions no matter how simple, have you checked if the motor is slightly in gear or is something a little stuck in the throttle lever or gear box? so the motor thinks it is in gear so it won't try to kick? I had this happen many years ago. I was trying everything and so I clunked the gear stick in and and out of gear forward/neutral and reverse a couple of times and it went. Most key start motors will have a safety system like automatic cars that wont let it try to start if it is in gear. The other one as mentioned by others was, is the killswitch (safety killswitch on the little cord) misbehaving or not engaging properly? You might be able to check if the motor is actually in gear by trying to spin the propellor with your hands. It should spin freely in neutral but wont if it is in gear. This will only tell you if the motor is actually in gear, not if the switches are just confused and they think it is in gear.
  21. I think if you are interested in it, will use it at least semi regularly and have the cash to spare then it is worth it. I have one and think it is great when i am actually able to get out. You really need to look at it several times a week whether you are going fishing or not just to keep track of what the water is doing where and compare that to what reports are coming in. Also don't assume you are going to be able to get clear scans everyday you want one. More often than not cloud cover is an issue and i end up looking at the Multi Resolution Blend image which is a blend of a few scans over past days. You will also want to learn to understand what and how Altimetry works and how that relates to the currents.
  22. Burley with chicken pellets and fish scraps. Don't only use bait jigs for the livies. Have one guy use a bait jig, firstly with no bait (avoids unwanted fish like sweep and mados), then try a fleck of prawn or pilchard on every second hook. Have another guy with a hand line or light bream rod with a small long shank hook (anywhere from a size 6 - size 1) with a small split shot about 30cm above it. If you dont have split shots you can use a small ball sinker held up with a little bit of rubber band. Use a small piece of prawn or fish flesh (better) on the single hook and flick it out the back of the burly cloud (5-10m from the back of the boat) and let it waft down naturally. Often the rubbish fish and yakkas will hold hard under the boat and burley and the slimies will be out the back. If you dont put a bait out there you might think there are no slimies. If you troll metal lures, small squid skirts or diving lures along the back of the wash from the south head of the harbour down along in front of the lighthouse towards Ulladulla Bommie you will be a chance at an Australian Salmon, Tailor, Bonito, Kingfish. Be careful of shallow rocks/reefs and occasional breaking waves in all of this area. There are alot of bommies that break occasionally and are very shallow. Don't be afraid to have a livie out anywhere you are fishing with a chance of a king or Mako.
  23. Take some pilchards, prawns and squid. But pull up around the floats off the back of the bommie out the front of the harbour and try to get some slimies and yakkas. Find a current line around the 20-30m mark for flathead or around the 50-60m mark out the front for snapper. Just drift with paternoster rigs. Put a different bait on each hook. That's probably the simplest option.
  24. It depends on your priorities. If you want thin for breaking strain, Siglon is good but test your knots each time you tie a new one and it is not as abrasion resistant as other thicker lines if you are around structure alot. It also gets sad from the sun and salt over time if you don't look after it. I used to get bulk spools of it in 6 and 8lb and use it or bait fishing for bream and the like in the bays and rivers. Schneider (this is thick but tough) or Tortue if you are your line on the rocks or snags. Maxim UltraGreen is a very good alrounder when you take into account price, quality, thinness, abrasion, knot strength. Don't let the light green colour of these lines put you off, clear lines look a little white anyway.
  25. As mentioned by everyone above, guide it with your left thumb. It becomes second nature very quickly. We used to bottom bash with TLDs years ago and you get used to it, and that was with braid. These days i have to concentrate not to guide the line with my thumb when i am using a reel with a level wind. If your reel if filled to the max capacity wise it is critical to wind it on evenly so as not to hit the top. If you keep bulking it and hitting the top then strip some line off (50m) and see how you go.
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