552Evo

Maybe talk to a boat trailer supplier and get wider rollers. this is what is my setup looks like. But definitely get the cracks checked and possibly before repairs grind back the cracks to get a good look at the fibreglass underneath to confirm if the cracks are superficial.

Jebro, in your original post you said you disconnected cables on the positive side,, I don't know which ones, but when you are testing the isolator I'd be disconnecting the smaller red and black you said goes to the centre console. Because they appear to bypass the isolator. It's very possible with these smaller cables that supply the centre console, that they are powering accessories that allow the reading on your multimeter to happen.

Hi Jebro, where does the other smaller black negative cable go ? That might be the issue ?

I had good service and experience with Club M. First time was when my new boat with trailer needed a tow after 1 of the 4 wheels disembarked from the trailer as I was towing it on a 100klm/h busy freeway - not good. I got my free tow that time. No cost no claim all done over the phone. Second most recent time is I unintentionally motored over Big submerged rocks and bent prop and prop shaft. Again all sorted without drama over the phone minus excess to me. I now gleefully await to see how much my premium increases - I know it will. Overall I can’t complain and I got what it’s used for.

I don't know if one brand is any better electro/mechanically than the other but I do know Motorguide interfaces with mercury motors and lowrance,simrad fish finders. So that would be essential for spot lock or anchor lock features I guess minn Kota would interface with a different brand ,,,

Fair enough

Good point re side scan, I have a separate ducer for that for the Simrad.

Hi doza48, my guess would be the transducer on the back of your boat in the picture would be something like a big standard HST WSBL or something similar to that - given that it’s hooked up on o the little Lowrance head unit. That sort of transducer would be compatible with every brand sounder/head unit available that I can think off, if it’s navico that means Lowrance, Simrad, Raymarine etc etc. I wouldn’t worry too much about that transducer at the moment, just get the head unit first and work from there. For all we know the reason it’s not working too well could be the position of the transducer. I’ve got a Simrad setup with the same sort of transducer and it works fine. I know there is better transducers that would give awesome results for the $$$$ but I’m happy to use the system as is. So id upgrade the head unit and work from there assuming that you should then get a decent picture and work on the transducer position then. Ill attach a pic of the basic results from my setup with a similar transducer. About the maps not working, do you know for sure the copy you have is ok , ie the card functions ok. Can you explain further why it’s not working, how do you know it’s not working or is the card being read by the head unit in the slot ? I know on my unit I can view the name of the card inserted in each card slot. Jamie

No worries anthman, the basic ide of both diagrams are the same, the diagram I used incorporates a manual changeover switch like you mentioned earlier. The other 2 small gauge wires in my diagram are optional. At 140 Amps (your VSR capacity) you could even go bigger than 4 gauge, like 2 gauge but I imagine that would be overkill for a 40 hp motor. Do you know what gauge cable your existing battery is wired up with to the motor ?

Does your VSR have a model number or description that says how many amps it’s rated at ? That would guide you to the cable gauge required between the he VSR and each battery. Example also is a “start Isolation” wire and a “no current/storage” sensing wire - see the attached image that suggests 16gauge As far as from each battery to the isolator switch id be using at least what’s already rigged up to your first/original battery or bigger. 6gauge minimum or better 4gauge. Without seeing how much room you’ve got and terminal size limitations basically/within reason the bigger the cable gauge the better for reason of the cranking ability of the outboard.

Congrats rebel and well done. Enjoy the boat and motor and catching fish. Cheers jamie

G’day Rebel, first up I’m no expert. From what I’ve read, seen pro’s talk and experienced modern four strokes are as good if not better than 2 strokes now. Equal or lighter in weight. No need to purchase and mix and store oil. No oil smell. On the “unsure” aspects, im not sure how service costs compare - coz with a new motor you have to get it serviced by an authorised dealer to maintain the warranty, and I’m not sure about holeshot power, but I’ve got a Four Stroke and it has no problem getting my boat up on the plane, but I’ve got a 6m fibreglass boat with a bigger hp 150 motor than a 60. My way of thinking is I’m not fussed about any % of holeshot either way, as long as it gets up quick, which mine does anyway. I’d look seriously at a Four Stroke. Jamie

Thanks rozza_b, yeah I love it, I just wish the weather would settle so I can get out in it. I've chalked up enough brownie points over the last 2 months so I'm keen. I just got myself an epirb so I'm keen to head out a bit further now and get stuck into some deeper water fishing outside the bay - where I've usually fished. Hope you get out soon and hook up, good luck and cheers. Jamie

Hmm, another official video from Merc direct, no mention of warm water or warm engine ? Makes it look a pretty simple task without muffs mentioned at all. Ive got it’s 3rd service due soon so I’ll follow it all up then as well. Thanks ? https://youtu.be/OjPrlPbuVnI

Thanks Jon I'll double check that out re how much of a flush the Merc gets. Ha ha but no the warm water is reserved for the shower. That's a bit fancy having hot running water outside ?

Hi all, I've been a sticky beak ( not saying much) for too long. Anyway this is my Evolution Axis 552. Had it 2 years now and love it I just love everything about Centre Consoles. This one is 6.2M LOA with a Merc 150 to push it along. Heaps of storage and plenty of walk around fishing space. Spent most of the past 2 years fishing the bay but I've ventured outside a few times now and I'm definitely hooked offshore. Been through The Port Phillip Heads (The Rip) a few times in 6+M swell and the boat handles very well. Great thread, I can stare at boats all day. cheers Jamie

I thought I'd mention it just because nobody else did, I've got a Merc four stroke and I don't even start it to flush it out. It's got a hose connection built into it, so I connect the hose when I unpack (insert beer here) and the motor galleries get flushed both sides of the thermostat. I like the idea my neighbors like it even better

Nice. Good luck on your maiden voyage. May you catch big kings.

Hi seasponge, if this is any help, basically the end result is that your bow loop that you connect your winch hook to has to line up at the correct height in relation to the winch roller. On my boat the bow loop sits just below the roller above the winch, about 50mm below the roller from memory. That way the winch is pulling the bow hoop down onto the winch roller. The rest of the rollers should make the boat sit even and level at the lowest adjustment which should make Launching and retrieving easier. Thats my opinion,,, Get a few opinions to satisfy yourself. Jamie

Sorry for the late reply (2 weeks later) yes thanks Berleyguts, I've tried that with my jockey wheel at full extension and the front wheels are well and truly still gripped onto the ground. So with a ratchet wheel I'm guessing it will be the same situation. Its a great upper body work out heaving the BMT in and out and sideways I'll give it that. Its just it actually is dangerous doing it solo if it's wet or the ground is dewey early in the morning. I've slipped once in an early morning and came within a whisker of smashing my face on the drawer bar, because all the upper body force to lug the BMT and slippery concrete don't mix.

I've got a similar issue trying to manoeuvre my 6.2M fibreglass BMT into an alcove in besides my garage. The trailer is dual axle, so trying to perform on the spot turns is impossible because one axle pivots and the other axle drags. Ive thought about ratchet and electric jockey wheels but I reckon they would lose traction given the amount of drive required in my situation. But I'm happy to be convinced otherwise. They may well work in your situation. I've also thought about a method to use a pair of low slung 4 wheeled car trolleys on one axle/pair of wheels. ( But the hassle of inserting them and removing them would not make it worthwhile for me.) Maybe that's what others have described above, I don't know what the proper name for them is. Maybe it's easier to upgrade the house ha ha ha ( not funny I know )

I'd go with John McEnroe on that one ??

Isn't that style of transducer designed so it pivots (if it hits debris) from the stainless screw and rubber washer area ? So it wouldn't matter if the L bracket is secure, the transducer head would still pivot up ?

So as per the instructions, the L shaped bracket ( pivot arm ) is meant to be secured in place, that would prevent the kick up you experienced.

Thanks Luke, My boats a Centre Console so I've got a switch panel on the dash/helm where I grab power and have a dedicated switch for the "deck lights" it's even got a little name tag on the switch. Re blue light : because my deck is white I guess any colour light will be reflected well as you see in the photos but put it this way, I am going to mount a small overhead white led light on my TTop so I can tie up rigs at night. It's not enough light to play with fishing line at night for me ha ha. From memory the kit I got comes with a remote that you might be able to turn on and off with as well as change colours or have a light show so it may negate the need for a switch but I didn't want to have a lost remote in the future that's why I hard wired the strip to a switch and left out the remote.