1530dean

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About 1530dean

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    MACKEREL

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    Normanhurst, NSW

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  1. Hi All, Earlier this year I removed the automixing from my 40hp 2 stroke Tohatsu and have been very happy with the trouble free performance to date. One of the issues that made me remove the automixing was the bogging down and poor idle and excessive oil fowling the spark plugs. Regarding the aperture range of the original oil mixing setup the manual states and I quote "The gasoline/oil mixing ratio varies automatically between 50:1 (2% oil) and 120:1 (0.8% oil) according to throttle opening." Now that I am pre-mixing my fuel and in order to avoid the same bogging down and idle issues I have been mixing my fuel at around 75:1 or 80:1. I must add that I never take the engine up to WOT and at max would take it to 3/4 throttle only. Also I must add that in the manual it states "engines to be operated with automixing system disabled require 50:1 gasoline/oil mixture (2% oil)." Since the aperture setting at idle is set for 120:1 and only at WOT does it require 50:1 what risks if any are there at mixing at 75:1 or 80:1..? I would be curious to know if anyone else is mixing at these slightly higher ratios..? Thanks Dean
  2. Hi All, I would like to let everyone know the issues I have had with my Mercury 40hp lightning xr 2 stroke outboard and why I have decided to remove the Automixing VRO and to premix instead. I have been having to deal with a bogging down issue with the engine almost since the day I bought the boat late last year. On my last trip out about 2 weeks ago it died as if it had run out of petrol and was very difficult to start and appeared to be flooded. When I did manage to get it started it would only let me idle back to the boat ramp and would always bog down when I put on the throttle. This issue would never show itself on the ramp only in the water. After purchasing the boat I made sure to give it a service, I replaced the lower unit oil and impeller, thoroughly cleaned all three carbies and replaced petrol pump gaskets and manifold o'rings, replaced the fuel line and bulb, cleaned the tank and checked the in line fuel filter and the siphon filter from the tank all ok. The compression is good on all 3 cylinders (app 105psi on all cylinders), all the voltages checked out according to the manual for this engine which is actually a Tohatsu. I even went through and completed the adjustment of the timing and synchronisation so it is as per the manual. Whenever I checked the spark plugs they would always appear very oily so I assumed the engine must be getting too much oil. Last weekend I replaced the spark plugs set the jets to 2 1/2 turns and the engine would start easy but as I revved it would begin to sputter and cough and would just about die at idle unless i gave it another rev. At idle it would surge and would behave like it was chocking and blowing a lot of smoke. As a last resort I decided to bypass the oil injection and feed the fuel straight from the output of the fuel filter into the carburetors and wow what a difference..! Looking at how the whole oil injection mechanism is working it turns out that it is not possible to meter the fuel oil ratio accurately since there is such a long delay in the fuel line from the point at which it is mixed to the carburetors. Increasing the throttle suddenly and then decreasing the throttle only serves to exacerbate the problem. In my opinion the engineers that designed the Automixing mechanism solution in hindsight should be metering the oil to the carburetors the same way the fuel is being metered via the the intake manifold vacuum. My feeling is that the Automixing solution the engineers have provided was developed as an after thought and would strongly recommend anyone with this mechanical mixing set up to consider converting their engines. I would look forward to any of your comments, if you have had to deal with these same issues then at least checking your spark plugs should reveal the same issues I have been dealing with also.
  3. 1530dean

    Steering Torque

    Hi Guys, Back on the subject of reducing the steering torque on my 4 meter tinnie. Assuming the prop fin is set correctly can anyone tell me if lowering the engine should reduce the steering torque or increase it..? There is this article on the net pasted below which happens to state that raising the engine should improve the steering torque but from my understanding it should make it worse due to there being less prop fin action..?
  4. Thanks for the advice Nolem ...much appreciated
  5. Thanks Everyone for your valuable comments. I will try adjusting the trim tab first and see where this takes me. If I cant get it right will consider to swap the engine out for a 30HP or change over the steering from mechanical to hydraulic probably the latter will be much easier. Cheers
  6. Hi Jeffb, I was just looking at this youtube video below it reckons if the boat is steering to the right then I should be moving the trim tab more to the right. If this is the case then I guess I should be moving it more to 4 o'clock instead of 7 o'clock is that right..?
  7. Hi guys Thanks for the advice. Looks like it could be the fin...! I just checked the position and if you are looking from the top of the engine down it is pointing at 5 o'clock. I gather this is what is making the boat steer to the right under power. Now the question is should I set the position back to 6 o'clock before adjusting any further what are your thoughts..?
  8. Hi Everyone, I own a 4 meter Seacraft Commander 400 Aluminium boat same as the Youtube link below. The person I purchased it from replaced the engine with a larger heavier 40Hp engine however the boat is only rated to 30Hp max. The problem I am having is that whenever I increase the power it begins to turn to the right so I have to counter steer to keep it in a straight line. The boat is in very good condition and the steering works well out of the water so it is just when it is in the water and when I try to turn up the power that I get into trouble My feeling is that I should be replacing the steering with a hydraulic but before I spend the bucks and not to mention the time I would be keen to get some feedback first..?
  9. 1530dean

    Bow Anchoring

    Hi Rick This makes it much easier. Your advice is really appreciated ...thanks..!
  10. 1530dean

    Bow Anchoring

    Hi everyone, I am in the throws of trading up to a bigger boat. I just sold my Stacer 3.4meter tinnie and am looking to buy up to 4.5meter boat. Most of the older Quintrex and Savage hulls older than 1990 with their full wind screen look like they cant be easily anchored off the bow. Am I missing somthing or is there some trick to anchoring these boats from the bow perhaps..?