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Tinkicka

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  1. Hi, I’ve been making my own leaders for fly fishing for over a decade. I have been using mono and have stored the spools in foil ziplock bags (the same as you buy coffee beans in) for all that time. The mono is just like the day it was manufactured. I can’t see why this wouldn’t work with FC. You need to measure the size of the spool and then buy the appropriate bags from eBay…. Hope this helps. Tinkicka
  2. I've been building rods for a few years so this answer comes from a bit of experience. IMHO rod blank manufacturers should take a bit of the blame for this because they don't put a warning in with the blank that says DO NOT PUT PIECES TOGETHER UNTIL FERRULES HAVE BEEN WRAPPED. The person who mentored me in the early days of my rod building journey drummed this into my head from day one. He had seen a number of expensive rod blanks crack at unwrapped ferrules, even before thinking about how to build the rod. Looking at your pictures, you have a full thickness crack, not a hairline crack and it is quite long. Now that you have a crack in the blank, it represents a weak spot and will always be a weak spot, as long at it remains in the blank. You can repair cracks, about 10mm is the longest that you would want to consider. It will take some time and requires a bit of skill. The problem is that with any repair, the crack remains and will continue to grow, initially at a microscopic level, every time you put the rod together and use it. The process used to manufacture CF rod blanks results in the ferrule being the place where the most stress is concentrated when the rod is loaded and used. That stress looks for the path of least resistance (the crack) and it will eventually result in the rod failing, most likely when you have a PB fish hooked and it is fighting like mad. The second way to deal with the crack is to cut blank to remove the section containing the crack. You will have to cut longer than the crack to ensure that you get rid of it. This results in two problems. The first is that because this is a female ferrule, you will have to resize the interior dimension to accept the male section that slots into it. This is normally done at the factory during manufacturing to ensure that all pieces in the blank fit together snugly. You can do this but is fiddly and requires a few specialised tools. The second problem is that by removing a section of the blank you will change the action of the rod. It is unlikely to be a problem given the diameter of your blank, but in something like a fly rod, the change can be noticeable. Removing a section is also a bit fiddly and requires some care so as not to introduce any further cracks. Some blank manufacturers offer replacement sections, you would have to make contact with them to see if they do with this blank. Some fly rod manufacturers will take a complete rod back (not just the broken section) and craft a new section to suit the rod ( you may have to pay $$ for this depending upon their warranty) and they then return the rod to you to reattach the necessary hardware to use it again. Having had a look at your pictures again, it appears that this is quite a long full thickness crack and a repair would not be viable for the reasons above. Your best course of action from here would be to contact the manufacturer and see if a new section is available. It's not a simple answer unfortunately. Tinkicka
  3. If you read the article, it states that the female part of the ferrule is the section that wears and allows the male part to sit further into it. If you remove part of the male ferrule so that the two wrap bands sit flush (so that the raw section of the CF rod is removed) then any wear in the female ferrule, through normal use as stated in the article, can only result in a loose fit because the male part cannot move further into the female ferrule because of the restriction caused by the wrap band. If you measure the dimensions of the male ferrule, they will show a very slight taper, with the thin section at the end. It has been designed and manufactured that way to allow for normal wear and tear. I had extensive communication with two manufacturers when I first came across this when building rods. They provided the link to the article. Tinkicka
  4. Hi, normal process for quite a few rod manufacturers now. https://tforods.ca/blogs/news/blank-over-ferrule-technology I build quite a few rods, mainly fly rods and this is common. Be careful if you remove anything from the 'male' end as with wear and tear in normal use, you will end up with a loose joint and then the problems really begin. Tinkicka
  5. Hi, A friend in the electronics game sent me this URL when I purchased my boat. They seem to think it would work. https://www.unols.org/sites/default/files/SessionIV_Rowe_HOT GLUE.pdf Seems to seal OK on the trials I have conducted. Given that it appears to be from Woods Hole (they do some deep exploration in oceans) it would appear to be sound practice. I would like to hear other people's (more experienced) thoughts??? Tinkicka (Brett)
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