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About AP3

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  1. I do it all myself. Youtube is your friend for all things engine related. I'm a huge fan of Dangar Marine.
  2. AP3

    Oil leak.

    Does sound like it flooded then, and fuel/oil mixed with carbon buildup and ran out of the exhaust. If it floods again, just give it full throttle, and it should start. If you have remotes, you might have to take the cowl off and move the throttle manually to full.
  3. AP3

    Oil leak.

    Is it a 2 stroke, and is it leaking from the exhaust? Could be partially unburnt oil leaking out of the carb, in which case I'd say it's normal. Is the engine running OK otherwise? Does it still do it if you pull the fuel hose and let the engine run dry?
  4. Thanks for the advice all! @zmk1962 This was at a constant throttle. I tried to capture it at the transition point, when it goes from puttering to smooth. At this point it alternates between the two. It doesn't surge in revs, just putters at low revs, and runs smooth at higher revs. @ Hateanchors It might well be that this is normal for a 2 stroke. My last motor was a 4 stroke so it's new to me. At higher revs it is indeed very smooth! So far on this engine I've changed and gapped the plugs, pulled the carb off for a good clean, and replaced the idle jet for good measure, changed the impeller, cleaned up all the earth connection I could find (inc. the battery, which is new), changed the gear oil, set the air mix and idle speed, although I might raise the idle a little. I haven't checked compression, as I haven't got a compression tester yet. I'll pull the plugs and see what they look like anyway Cheers, Andy
  5. Hi Again Everyone! I have another quick question for you guys. Is it normal for a 2 stroke to putter at lower revs, and then smooth out at higher revs? An example of what I mean here: Between 2-3 seconds you can hear it smooth out, then go back to puttering. Cheers, Andy
  6. Hi Frank, I would love to take up your kind offer. Do the photos I've provided give you enough information on the correct length etc? I'm in no rush, as I have options available in the meanwhile, so happy to wait for your mate to come over to the UK. Cheers! Andy
  7. Cheers Zoran, I think I understand now. With a correctly measured drag link, I would have equidistant travel port to starboard, but still a reduced lock. Have I got it right? Cheers, Andy
  8. I fear you're right. I checked the angle at port and starboard, and I have a lot more starboard lock that I do port lock. Attached are a couple of photos showing the distance between the steering bracket and steering cable, with the drag link disconnected, and the motor and cable turned lock to lock.
  9. Hi Zoran, still trying to get my head around it, but I think I've disproven myself. I made a quick sketch to a made up scale, and it seems that the drag link being longer wouldn't result in different origin points on the steering cable, as they intersect at the same points. Does this look right to you? Your engineering mind is far better than mine! Would the current setup actually give me unbalanced steering travel port to starboard? Cheers, Andy
  10. Frank, Zoran, you're both stars! One thing is bothering me though. If the drag link was made long enough to push the motor to full port lock with the cable fully retracted, wouldn't this mean that there would be less travel towards starboard lock, due to the longer drag link keeping the motor further away from starboard, as the steering cable has fixed length/travel? If what I have in my mind's eye is correct, I'd need more length in the steering cable, to account for the extra distance for the motor bracket to move in either direction. (Fully willing to consider that I've got all this totally wrong!) The great thing to know though, is that I have 4 options to play with (2 holes in the bracket, with the bracket flipping in 2 directions) to try and find the right balance of lock-to-lock vs. steering effort! Cheers, Andy
  11. Hi Frank, Well that level of generosity is something I've never come across over here, so how could I turn you down! Ok, I swapped the bracket over to the otherside. This is it before: This is it after: I have to say the steering effort is significantly improved with the bracket moved forward. I have my cap in my hand, and Stephen Hawking yelling at me from beyond the grave about paying more attention on physics lessons. Anyway, you can see the reduced lock in both directions in the second video. If my physics are right (just shoot me now), then a longer drag link should remedy this. Here's the current drank link along with a tape measure: https://imgur.com/wwYHO0j I guess the best way to measure the right length is to disconnect the drag link, move the outboard to full lock, and measure between the 2 holes (steering cable and steering bracket)? Cheers, Andy
  12. Hi Frank, Please believe me that I'm taking in as much information as I can, and have looked at all the options. Looking at other outboards, the bracket is usually the other way around, but is also mounted a lot closer to the cowling. On this motor, because it has a forward carry handle, they chose to put the bracket the other way around attached to it. If I moved the bracket forward of the handle, in theory I'd have more leverage on the motor, but the drag link is too short, and a longer drag link might be subject to extra force required from the cable. I made a (very bad and simplistic) drawing of what I mean (attached). The geometry of it just doesn't look right to me?! Green would be the existing drag link, and red the forward position. I'm not sure what you mean by an adjustable steering rack? I have a rotary helm, and no space for a rack. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean. Thanks for your continuing help! Cheers, Andy
  13. Frank, I admit I didn't. I took a look at the motor at either lock, and determined that at full starboard lock, the drag link would be to long, and at full port lock, it would be to short. The good news is that I just reamed out the tilt tube with sandpaper stuck to an old bit of steering cable, attached to a drill, using loads of WD40, and got loads of gunk out. After spraying through with carb cleaner, I sprayed in white lithium grease, then cleaned and re-greased the cable, and it's a lot better! Still somewhat harder to turn as you approach full lock either way, but it's a one arm job to steer now, so I'm going to call it fixed! I'm still jealous of hydraulic steering though....maybe one day. Thank you all for your advice and assistance. Really great bunch of people here! Cheers, Andy
  14. From the 93 models onwards it's on the outside, as they don't have the handle: https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/BP_AP_AssemblyDetail.asp?ID=6395 But it seems definitely on the inside for a 90 model: https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/BP_AP_AssemblyDetail.asp?ID=6394 I might try again with some sandpaper taped to and old section of steering cable, and into a drill. Looks like it works well on youtube anyway!
  15. I'm wondering if it should be a snug fit though, of have play. It seems a bit excessive, and the cable end moves at an angle instead of almost straight. Could be normal I suppose, of my tilt tube is worn out.