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About Daviddf

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    Taylors Hill

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  1. Thanks for the replies. I’ve purchased everything I need. Ace-2 drag grease, space age grease, inox grease and turns out Ballistol is ok for high friction points. Grease is mostly all that’s needed.
  2. Thanks for your response. I have seen inox mx5 stocked at a few stores but I never thought to use a different oil. It may work, but I’m thinking to find an alternative spray grease if I can’t get my hands on shimanos grease. cheers.
  3. Getting mighty frustrated with conflicting pieces of advice from Shimano regarding the suitability of Ballistol for internal use as a lubricant in my shimano reel. All I want to do is take care of my reels as best as possible without taking them apart and voiding warranty. So I am limited to applying product externally and through the service port. Not a lot of products are readily available in Australia and the ones that are mostly require direct internal access or must be designed for fishing reels. Alan Hawk claims only spray grease should be applied through the service port. Logic forces me to agree with him. A quick clean of my daiwa line roller assembly indicated that Ballistol does dissolve grease. Shimano claims it doesn’t. !!!! I don’t think it is wise to drop Ballistol in the service port knowing that it will dissolve the grease off the gears. Further, should water get inside the reel, Ballistol will emulsify, leaving the gears with no lube or any protection from salt water. Hence the need for a quality grease, not only for lubrication but also for corrosion resistance. I will almost certainly need to send my reel in to get re-greased and serviced if Ballistol strips the grease... which defeats the purpose of trying to maintain the reel myself. The only product I can find - shimano grease spray - which is said to be ideal for use through the service port is apparently... not sold by Shimano Australia... really. The only option I see is to pay through the nose to import shimano grease spray from overseas. Daiwa also states on their website that oils will strip grease and advises against it. So what am I supposed to do? why can’t there be consensus? I want to trust shimano, i do. I love them as a company. But I’m worried about ruining my reel and forcing myself into a costly downtime. I would appreciate it if someone could help clear up this matter. Cheers.
  4. Hi, I have just purchased the new series - Penn Prevail II 12ft 15-37kg surf rod... By memory the butt section from the base to the start of the reel section seems a bit shorter on these new models compared to the older model. I am wondering if someone can please measure their 12ft Prevail 1 so i can compare it with the new series if not too much trouble. Cheers
  5. Thanks for the replies fellas. i love the prevail series and own the 10ft 15kg model which arrived from dinga in immaculate condition, unlike the two 12ft prevails that i had to send back from two other different places. it stung having to do that as it was what i originally wanted and still adore. I like to take some degree of pride in the rods i buy and own. I always take care of the rods and clean them to a sparkle after every trip, and it really aggravates me uncontrollably to see my rods scratched, blemished and looking heavily used when they are supposed to be new. It kind of put me off and seeing them in that condition diminished my excitement for fishing if you get what i mean? To me, rods are not just a tool or utility. They have proven to mean something a bit more special to me and i don't know why believe it or not. So i thought, heck, if i have to buy a german-made rod just to ensure i get a rod with a finished build quality that makes me feel good owning, then so be it - hence the issue of comparing the 10ft DAM with the 12ft prevail. Unfortunately i can't find the prevails locally or i'd inspect it to taste before buying. But i can't keep going on and on like this; it'll start costing me on return shipping. But you guys are right, it's not just about casting distance. I think i'll be happier with the prevail as an overall more suitable package. So, as it stands after ruling out the 10ft DAM, it's either risk not being completely happy with buying another prevail 12ft or buy the Sportex SU4211 Magnus Surf Turbo 4.20m 150-250g 15-20kg - which is even longer. These, apparently, are my options. One costs $180 and the other $470. Of course i'm fighting the inevitable: dude! you're going to scratch it eventually anyway! Thanks again for the replies
  6. Hi, just a question regarding casting distance when surf fishing. I understand there are many variables involved with casting that affect distance, and how these variables factor in to the ultimate accuracy of the answer regarding my question. And yet i must get closer to the truth. Is there any way of knowing by observing the specs alone, which rod will cast the same weight further? (again with the variables). Penn prevail 12ft 12-20kg spinning vs german manufactured D.A.M Monster Big Fish 10ft 12-18kg spinning. Both have max cast weight of 200gram (inaccurate too i'm guessing). The DAM has a Reinforced High-Modulus Japanese TORAY Nano TC30 and TC36 carbon blank. I had the chance to use the Penn the other night and it's a fantastic rod, very solid and well made, but i prefer to hold the rod instead of using a spike, and the penn was a tad to the heavy side, which is why i'm thinking of the 10ft DAM. the price for the DAM is basically double... how much of that $360 price tag translates to actual performance, i don't know... Cheers.
  7. Thanks for the replies, lads. I wonder how much weight that small round float will hold up? Hopefully the float i have in mind isn't unnecessarily large, as it would probably start to impede my cast distance too much. I am using a 10ft rod at the moment but have a 12ft in mind for use. Cheers.
  8. that's the point of connecting the separate line, its to be used in conjunction with a sinker on the bottom as normal. the line with the float can't drift away, it can only float to the top. The usual floating rigs with hook on the bottom don't utilise 4oz sinkers designed for the surf - hence the design showed in the picture i attached. Cheers.
  9. Hi Fishos, I've been doing a fair bit of surf fishing lately off the great ocean road with some pretty good results chasing Salmon. But many times i've had my hook snagged and other times i've had my bait nibbled by pesky crabs (i caught one by accident). This fact along with the consideration of the angle of the line in the water leads to be to believe that my droppers are far too close to the bottom. Ive been looking at other rig ideas and i found one that seems to offer a solution. The idea behind it is to use a float attached to the end of my dropper leader where the hooks are attached on a separate line from that where the sinker is attached. Using a 3-way swivel, i have my mainline attached to the top of the swivel, the line with the sinker on the bottom of the swivel and on the right side of the swivel i have my separate line with the hooks and float at the end. This should allow the hooks to be elevated and presented towards the middle of the water with the aid of the float, and not limited by the angle of the main line held from the rod on the beach. I am wondering if anyone has tried this arrangement before and if anyone would like to offer their opinions. Cheers.
  10. thanks for your replies lads, it is much appreciated. I think i'll go for the 30lb for the time being, if not for any other reason than to keep my mind at ease. If J Braid Grand is as good as the reviews attest, i think i will be happy Tight lines.
  11. thanks guys. i guess i was trying to approach it from a numbers perspective based on what i think i have learned from doing some reading online. obviously there is far more to it than that but eager to learn, and very much appreciate the advice you guys have to give. i was basing the drag calculation on that general 1/3 rule for setting drags. I am planning on fishing a bit of both, lures and bait. I hope that in the heat of the moment i will retain the mindfulness to use my gear correctly, particularly with heavier line. To be honest i'd rather lose the fish than have busted up gear. maybe 30-40lb would be the better option for me if i be careful with where and how i cast my lines. What kind of drag would i be looking to set for 50lb? 3-4kg? Cheers
  12. Thnx for the replies. To be honest i don't really have a target fish, but wanted a setup that is capable of landing big fish. Will be fishing off surf, pier and rocks at places like portland. My concern is potentially snapping the rod, which i am reading is a possibility. I don't know how much drag is enough with 50lb. I'd like to be able to fight big fish without worry of doing damage to my gear. Im thinking that with 50lb / 22kg braid, i should set my drag to about 7kg, and at this setting i won't run the risk of snapping the rod as it's rated for 15kg. But likewise what is the point of using 50lb if i can't take it anywhere near its limit? not taking into consideration the other benefits of using thicker braid etc. So i figure by using 30lb braid i can fight fish as hard as i want and not worry about the drag setting being as high as 3/4, as the line will always break first. thin line in a pain to cast. finger always slips! cheers.
  13. Hi guys, My rod is a 10ft penn 10-15kg heavy action surf spin rod and my reel is a Shimano Thunnus Ci4 12000F baitrunner. The max drag on the reel is 12kg. I recently got my hands on some J Braid Grand 50lb braid. I am wondering if 50lb is too much with this setup? or if i should swap it for 40lb or 30lb? Thanks. David