Blade

Replaced the regulator rectifier, redid all of the connections. Took the boat out on the weekend, was reading just above 14v at the batteries.

Will keep an eye on the connections to see if they show signs of excess heat. 

I re did the tests on the regulator rectifier 

When trying to forward bias the diodes across both circuits I go a 0 reading so it seems like the rectifier is not allowing anything to pass through.

When I touched took the reading from the yellow wire (would normally be connected to the stator receiving AC current) to the earth of the regulator rectifier I got a 2.9v reading, this makes me think that there is a short (It just seems odd that the unit would allow AC current to pass through the earth) This only occurred on one of the circuits i.e the 2nd yellow wire to earth did not allow any voltage to pass.

I also did an OHM test and the reading was not stable it started high and dropped steadily

It seems to me that the regulator rectifier is the issue, or am I doing something wrong?

Did a battery check on both batteries and they are both in good condition. 

15 minutes ago, noelm said:

You don't want fuses in that location! But, you are correct, simply having bad connections will heat up wire/joins, but unlikely for them all to be bad, certainly possible. My advice is repair manual and testing, either that or guess and throw parts at it, you might get lucky before your wallets empty......

The empty wallet is what I am trying to avoid, it's an old motor so I can expect things to break every now and then but this is easier to diagnose on the mechanical side of things vs the electrical. 

Based on what I can see in the service manual and online the rectifier is within the allowed limits. 

The tests I did with the stator still installed but disconnected all seem to be in spec too.

Noted all tests were done with the batteries disconnected so there is no way there is interference from the batteries. 

This leaves me to think it could be either a bad battery/ batteries which places extra load on the system as it is trying to charge a bad battery. 

Or 

It is a bad connection. 

I will take the batteries to be tested, if they come back good then I will re run the tests on the stator and rectifier to be 100% sure. 

I have been doing some further reading based on what I have seen online there are two more potential causes. 

1. Bad battery/ batteries 

2. Bad connections 

The last time I checked the connections they seemed okay all I did then was add some dielectric grease nothing else looked to be an issue. 

I will take the batteries for testing. 

Thanks @JonD I have been told that previously as a result I always ensure the key is in the off position before I switch the batteries on, so I am confident that the burnt wires are as a result of something else. 

Hello Raiders, 

I am seeking some advise from relating to some electrical diagnosis.

Problem statement:

Motor is a 2001 3 cyl 90hp 2 stroke Mercury

When I did a visual inspection under the cowling I noticed that three wires have been getting hot to the point that the connectors melted.  X2 yellow and X1 Red wire had burnt the others showed no sign of heat.

Potential causes:

Based on an online search the most likely issues are either the regulator rectifier or the stator. 

I have done a diode test on the regulator rectifier voltage flowed in the correct direction with an OHM reading of 000.2 OHMS

The Grey wire to red wire registered a higher output.

I then did a test on the stator results were (note the multimeter has 000.2 OHMS reading when the probes are touched as such this must be deducted from the below readings)

Yellow to yellow = 000.4 OHMS

White and green to Green = 0.668 KILOOHMS

I checked the AC voltage output (yellow wires) with the motor running, the readings were bouncing around 23-24v the voltmeter then flashed overload. 

Advise needed:

The thing that has me concerned is the AC voltage check on the stator with the voltmeter registering a fault, and the higher reading on the grey to red wire reading on the rectifier.

I have tried to look online to see if these readings are in range, but the documents are too technical for me, I am hoping that there is a raider that can advise me on this.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Raiders,

I am looking for feedback from any Raiders who have the Lowrance HDS Live and are using it for offshore fishing in water ranging from 50m to 150m.

If you can let me know what transducer you are running, share any screenshots you may have and any issues you have had.

Thanks in advance 

Blade.

Hi Raiders, 

Weather permitting I will be going to Broughton Island for a 2 day fishing trip mid Dec. 

I am staying on the island and will have my boat. 

I am targeting kings and snapper, as a bonus if the water is warm and blue and conditions allow maybe getting to the FAD for a Dollie. 

I am looking for some general direction on where to look for bait, kings and snapper or any reports from the FADs. 

If there are any Raiders willing to share some local knowledge please send me a message or reply to this thread. 

Thanks in advance 

Thanks all. 

It is a 5.5m Ali boat. 

Sounds like something I should not attempt solo. 

Hi Raiders, 

Planning to fish around the Belambi area. 

In terms of putting the boat in and retrieving it, is it possible to do this solo at Belambi?

I don't have a drive on drive off trailer, I use a launch rope. 

Yup North of Wollongong

2 hours ago, noelm said:

First google search, no idea if it's the same "bandit" you are asking about.

34.19.73     150.59.01

Thanks, I am hoping a raider can confirm of these co ords are correct. 

Hi Raiders, 

Planning on fishing a bit further south than usual. I have heard that bandit reef is a good place to start, is anyone able to share the co ordinates for bandits reef or suggest any other spots in that area. 

Thanks in advance 

Thanks @JonD really appreciate the detailed response.

I have a Furuno Gp1971f which shops with CMAP 4d,do you know how the CMAP compare to the Platinum version of Navionics,  doea CMAP offer a reveal product

Thanks 

Hello Raiders, 

I am looking at either upgrading the maps on my sounder from CMAP 4D to Navionics + or Platinum + or adding a Lowrance Point 1 external gps/compass 

First question is which is the best upgrade the point 1 or the maps upgrade. 

2nd Question is is it worth the extra money for platinum +. 

Thanks in advance 

On 5/4/2022 at 5:39 PM, Fab1 said:

 

Managed to get it out sprayed it with WD40 Specialist penetrant 3 or 4 times a day for 3 days and then used a flat steel bar. Have ordered a new plug.

Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.

52 minutes ago, motiondave said:

gas blowtorch would help.

 

Its made from plastic so I dont want to risk it.

Hi All,

I want to top up the power trim fluid on my motor. 

I have tried to remove the plastic nut but it is seized. I have tried using a large screwdriver, a 19mm socket, a 4mm thick piece of aluminum flat bar to get more leverage.

It wont move a mm and is breaking up.

Does anyone have any advice on what I can do to remove it. 

See picutre below, the units have been sprayed with fish oil to prevent them from rusting which has worked well but may be part of the reason the filler nut has seized.

I have had a look and the rim looks like it is rolled over the perspex. 

Would drilling a tiny hole help?

Hi Raiders, 

Hoping someone can offer some advice on how to fix a foggy gauge.

The fogging seems to be getting worse over time, I have now removed the gauge and put it in direct sun to see if that makes a difference.  If that t work what are my options?

Thanks in advance.

@frankS thanks for the feedback. 

If I moved the transducer down to the black line on the image is that roughly where you suggest it should be?

Thanks for the replies so far. 

Here is a side view with a straight edge 

Hi Raiders, 

I have a P66 transom mount transducer, it reads well in flat conditions up to about 20knts, but the moment there is any chop or swell at all it starts to loose bottom.

Slow speed i.e. 5kns or less then it holds perfectly. 

I have tried to lower the transducer in its current location, but I had the same result. I have also tried to smooth out the transition from the bottom of the hull to the transducer with a piece of form ply and some sika flex but it didn't make a difference.

My thinking is that when there is chop or swell the transducer lifts out of the water so it loses bottom because if it was prop wash or turbulence I would lose bottom in flat conditions too so moving it close to the keel might make a difference. 

Here are some images of the current installation and the underside of the hull. (there is a black line on the hull where I was thinking of moving it to but wanted to get some feedback on this topic before I put holes in the transom)

Thanks 

Hi Raiders

Anyone been to either 12 mile or the peak recently?

I am hoping to get out there soon, keen to hear some reports from anyone who has been lately.

Thanks