twin08

Hello All I use to tow my 6.4m overall plate aluminum cat with a four year old Ford Falcon six cylinder petrol wagon, auto. It was fitted with a 2.3t tow pack and I used torsion bars when towing to level the load. The Falcon towed the boat really well, although I would just drive at no more than 90km (on the freeway) as I felt that over that speed I would sometimes feel the back of the car would give the slightest wobble around a corner. The power of the Falcon was just great up the hills and most times, the speed would not drop that significantly. I towed the boat a few times to South West Rocks and also down the coast. At the boat ramp I would have the family sit in the car to add more weight over the back wheels. I would also have the fuel tank full and put the auto into first and do a slow hill start using the handbrake. This would just pull the boat out of the ramp, without spinning the wheels. The only ramp I did have trouble a few times with wheel spin was Botany Bay, Foreshore Drive as at low tide it’s just a slippery, slimy ramp! But, using the slow hill start and taking it slowly, the Falcon was able to pull the boat out of this ramp. The Falcon was due for replacement so I borrowed a Toyota Kluger front wheel drive, which has 2t towing capacity and hooked up the boat for a test drive on a wet day. I drove to a steep hill to do a hill start to imitate the boat ramp conditions and on the wet road, the car was slipping backwards and wheel spinning badly. Even making a right hand turn at an intersection, the front wheel drive slipped and did not feel safe. After this event I took the boat to a weigh-bridge and it came in at 2.3t, 2t over the axels and 300kg tow ball down weight. I currently have a Nissan Navara 4x4 2.5L diesel 3t towing. The Navara feels safer on the road than the Falcon and cruises at 100km on the freeway, but just dies up the hills; I miss the power of the Falcon. I don’t put the Navara in 4x4 at the boat ramp to pull the boat out, but at Botany Bay Foreshore Road I did do a small wheel spin at low tide. Regards

We went to Browns on Monday the 9th and bag out on some good size Gemmies

Chris If someone rebuilds a vintage car that was not originally fitted with seat belts it passes the blue slip inspection as this is how it was built, I imagine old trailers would be the same. With building a new trailer you would need to follow the current design rules in every aspect to have it passed. You don’t require an engineer’s report as all it states in the design rules is "There are no specific body structural requirements, but the trailer must be safe and fit for purpose”. Just have a look at similar new trailer’s steel sizes and make yours the same or in a heaver gauge. If you have a problem at the blue slip inspection you can then give them something to compare with, if needed. If the BTM and supplies are over 750kg you need over-riding brakes fitted. For the money, it is very cheap insurance, plus it gives you a parking brake. With the obvious factor of stopping quicker, it could possibly save having an accident that could be as serious as a fatality, but let’s hope not! The authorities would inspect the vehicles, would find the trailer overloaded and being a possible contributing factor they would lay blame. Your insurance could possibly be voided for your car and boat etc, etc, etc. This is only my view. This web site information would assist in designing your trailer for the axles, hubs, bearings, springs etc as it has load ratings on the products http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology/product-catalogue/springs/australian-design-rules/ When I built my trailer, all of my receipts proved that my trailer parts can carry two ton for the compliance plate. All ties have speed ratings and max weight carrying labels. My ties are 510kg each x 4, giving over two ton load carrying capacity. Trailer rims have max weight limits marked on them as well. My IRS axles where made with a max 1000kg each. With two this gives a load sharing combination of two ton. Be careful with the steel that is pre galvanized tube, as some of the steel is only galvanized on the outside. I have been caught out by this before. To get a good weld you will need to grind the gal off, but it is not as long lasting a finish compared to hot dipped galvanizing that coats the inside and outside, as well as the welds. Regards

Thanks everybody for the great feedback on the trailer. Chris when you make items for galvanizing in tubing you need to allow for vent holes etc for the air to escape and the gal to drain out. Without the vents the air heats up inside the tube and can burst the tube open! In the web links it has designing rules for galvanizing http://www.ingal.com.au/IGSM/12.htm#16 or http://www.ingal.com.au/faq.htm Just on insurance NRMA will only insure home made trailers to a maximum of $1000, I found Club Marine covered the total cost of the trailer. Regards

Hi Chris I designed and built my own trailer to carry a 2t load to suit a cat that I had built. I did this firstly to get better quality, as well as drive on ability and to fit into my garage. I fitted I.R.S suspension for a smoother and safer ride, the galvanizing cost was more than the price of all the steel!. You need to work out the load of the BTM combination with fuel & supplies etc to ascertain the type of braking system, if needed, including the rim/tyre and axle type. All the design specification information for the body etc can be found at http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb1/vsb_01_b.aspx#11 You must keep all the receipts for the parts etc and take them with you to get a Blue Slip and the RTA will need to view them for registration. Regards