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Koalaboi last won the day on February 20

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  1. You can often pick up good second hand blackfish gear heaply at weekend markets and online. kb
  2. Hi jamo, I was asked by Donna to put my long post above into an article so i did and substantially expanded it and added some pictures etc. You might like to take a look at it, KB
  3. I find that depth range works well in most depths of water though I have fished deeper than that on occasions but very, very rarely.
  4. Hi damo, If your float pops up or is on its side because you are too close the the bottom, it's because your lead has hit the bottom. If you have a trace of 30cm and raise the depth 30cm you can still get snagged. You might like to raise it a bit further. In my experience, blackfish usually feed around 4 to maybe 8 feet deep, frequently shallower but rarely much deeper. Water clarity sometimes sends them down a bit if the water is really super clear and and especially if there is bright sun. But mostly 5 to 6 feet down. KB
  5. Thanks Donna, JamoDamo has really been having a red hot dig over time and it was a privilege to be able to help him out. You guys do a great job with this site which is always positive and respectful. I'm glad to be a part of it. KB
  6. Hi JamoDamo, The shot is to keep varying your tackle, bait, working on your strike and the playing of the fish: 1. Tackle: I often find that missed strikes are usually due to not enough lead below the float. Try adding tiny bits of split shot (oo or ooo sizes) one at a time till your float is so delicately balanced that just a little is above the water, it may even submerge briefly as a wave comes through where you are fishing. is your line greased with vaseline above the float to your rod tip? I grease it every time I go fishing. It makes it easy to lift the line from the water when you strike and is one of the best tips I can give you. If your line sinks it makes an effective strike very difficult. ensure that there is not too much slack line between your float and the rod...if you can have a straight line to the float it's much better when you strike. Don't let it be too tight or you will be dragging the float which the fish will feel. On days when currents or wind see the line quickly develop a belly between rod and float, it pays to lift the line and straighten it when needed during each drift. try varying the depth, sometimes they can be feeding surprisingly close to the surface, but more often deeper before each session re-tie all the knots in your terminal tackle and put in a fresh length of leader what size hook are you using? I use Mustad size 8 540-BR hooks what size is your leader? I use either 6lb or more often 8lb fluorocarbon how long is your leader? I don't like it shorter than 30 cm from lead to hook up to 50cm or more long is the leader in good condition? It may be frayed or even have a wind knot from casting so you need to check and replace as needed. I often re-tie the hook after landing 4 or 5 fish as the last couple of inches of the leader (I half hitch my bait onto the line above the hook) and the knot do weaken after catching a few. 2. Strike The most common reasons for a failure to hookup after a down are premature striking, too much belly in your line between the rod and float and a jerky strike which telegraphs resistance to the fish before the hook can set. To start, not all downs are downs.....sometimes the float can pop up or jiggle sideways so you need to be on the lookout for that. If the float is popping up, it means the fish is taking the bait and swimming up so I will decrease the depth below the float if I am not hooking up from the rising float type of bite. When you get a down, how long do you wait till you strike? My default timing is to count slowly to around 8. Sometimes longer sometimes shorter. I saw one FR up here the other day count to 20! The longest wait I've ever seen but, he got the fish! Each session can be different so experiment. While waiting between down and strike, do you gently take up any slack and have the rod tip down and pointed at the float? If not, you should. Make sure that you do not pull on the float till you strike. It has to be one smooth motion. Some of the respected luderick fisherman up my way call me the dentist because they reckon I strike so hard, I'll pull the fishs' teeth out! (I learned to fish for luderick off the rocks where a harder strike is often needed to take up the slack in rougher conditions than still water fishing to ensure I hook the fish.) It's taken me a while to break the habit but as I now fish more in the still water of Tuggerah Lakes, I try to strike with one smooth but continuous lift of the rod, while reeling in the line and found it better. It often happens that at the end of a drift, just when you decide to reel in and cast again, that a fish might be at your bait and you have not noticed. It pays to assume that you may have a down, so take up the slack and gently lift your rod at the start of your retrieve just in case. 3. Playing the fish Most fish escapes once hooked, come from trying to drag them in too quickly. Don't rush. Using a centrepin reel, it's easy to let the fish take some line at the start of the fight and during the fight. If fishing where there are waves, you need to be careful as they will use the strength of the wave to make a dash for freedom right at your feet. Give line whenever they take off and by the time they're ready to be netted or grabbed, they're on the surface, tired and easy to grab, net or wash onto the shore. Exceptions to giving line include steering them clear of rocks, barnacles, clumps of weed etc Keep your rod up high when playing a fish so that the flex in the rod cushions any sudden lunges 4. Bait sometimes the fish prefer cabbage (esp if near the ocean) I prefer cabbage that is a bright, shiny green but usually if the fish are biting, they are not too fussy (most of the time!) there are different kinds of weed: wire or soft, and some of the soft weed can vary greatly too in colour and texture sometimes the brown algae or ribbon weed seem to do the trick though I don't really go there that often how you present the bait on the hook. I mostly use cabbage and every fisher has their own way of baiting up. I push the hook through the bottom of the cabbage twice leaving some below the bend of the hook, then gently twist or fold the top of the bait around the top of the hook and secure it onto the leader with 2 half hitches above the eye of the hook.One problem I see is putting too much bait on the hook. Some blokes just fold a bait a few times into a little parcel and push the hook through leaving most of the hook bare. when baiting with weed, select a length of strands, not too much and wind it around the shank above the eye then wind it in the opposite direction back down leaving a centimetre or two below the bend of the hook. Different kinds of weed determine how many times and how tightly you wind the weed onto the hook. Hope this helps. After a while, you will start doing these adjustments as a matter of course. Just the same, some days they are just very hard to hook. Also, I often find that when getting downs with no or few hookups, that the fish are usually very small (though not always!) Sometimes a tide change can make all the difference. Keep at it, it's worth it in the long run. KB
  7. See: http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/Articles/Display/18884-A-great-time-for-Luderick http://filleting.fish/Articles/Display/20213-Break-out-the-winter-woollies http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/Articles/Display/18884-A-great-time-for-Luderick http://fishingmonthly.net.au/Articles/Display/7217-Luderick-lessons-at-the-Pin https://www.swanboathire.com.au/2013-Fishing-Reports/fishing-feature-luderick-play-dirty.html KB
  8. Are these the roaches you are talking about? KB
  9. Hi, Used to fish that way quite a lot mostly from Long Reef to Palm Beach. That stretch offers lots of variety of fishing both beaches, rocks and enclosed estuaries etc. Mona Vale is pretty central to that stretch of coast so possibly a good base for venturing out. Mona vale also has good fishing opportunities too. KB
  10. Hi Burtos Fishing, Your question is very open ended and as you can see from the response from kingie chaser, is one that will not be taken too seriously. I must admit, i share kingie chaser's views. There's no real shortcuts to becoming a good fisher EXCEPT for having someone who knows what they're doing take you under their wing and show you. Even then, it's really a matter of getting out there, having a go and thinking about what worked and what didn't: tides, winds, time of year, bait, technique etc etc. Work out what style of fishing you want to do: boat/land based; what fish you want to target; do your research on techniques, baits etc and over time, with continued experimentation you'll work it out. One bit of advice I think is crucial is to settle on fishing locations that are close to home. Really, there are no short cuts, you just have to put in the time and effort. When you do, experienced fishers will see your work, see that you are fair dinkum and start to help. KB
  11. Hi, I've had the same thing happen over the years but not too often. ATM we're in between seasons and estuary fish numbers have been affected by firstly the drought which saw salinity of usually brackish waters rise which affected a number of aspects of the food chain. Then the floods which in my area cleared out a lot of the usual blackfish haunts of weed etc. We're also between seasons and here in Tuggerah Lakes, the blackfish have been very patchy from what I can gather. Things will get better. Sometimes fishing is just like that. KB
  12. I agree strongly with noelm. Started fishing for luderick off the rocks in the late 1960s so lots of trial and error with lots of different footwear options: On relatively flat and slippery sandstone ledges, cleats and the other options written about here are fine. If not using cleats, scraping off some cabbage to burley the fish is easily done with your fish scaler...I find the neoprene shoes are sort of OK for this. On the Central Coast near The Entrance, I have a range of surfaces: 1. flat sandstone: cleats are fine as are all the others 2. uneven pebbly conglomerates: cleats are just OK depending on the size and hardness of the pebbles, spikes are much better 3. honeycombed surfaces: cleats = rolled ankles, spikes much safer 4. boulders: cleats not so good manouvreing from rock to rock with different slopes etc spikes better. 5. sand anything goes! 6. barnacle covered rock: most styles work ok but as barnacles are found in the impact zone I tend not to fish in such exposed spots anymore (I'm 67) as they are low tide options and anyway, I have found the top half of the tide the go for blackfish off the rocks Fishing away from home on hard rock platforms of basalt, granite and dolerite etc, I found cleats difficult as they don't bite into the rock as they do on softer sandstone surfaces...I suspect that would be true of other styles of footwear too. We ended up solving the problem of bolts biting into the sole of your foot by using coathanger wire, which did rust after a while and though ok, they did rust needing replacement now and again, (always took some in the gear if the wire needed replacing while fishing)and the cleats were a bit loose. One style of footwear on the rocks should never be used: thongs. It was and still is surprising the number of fishers you see wearing them. So, as noelm said, you need to choose the right footwear for the spot you are fishing. When you think about it, we have to choose the right tackle, techniques etc for our fishing possies and footwear is just another thing to consider. Tight lines. KB
  13. I used to use cleats but tired of them especially over rough or honeycombed rock where they are dangerous with it very easy to roll an ankle. The bolts used to secure them to my shoes would eventually press uncomfortably into the soles of my feet and I frequently managed to swing the heel cleat too close to my ankles resulting in cuts and bruises which were very painful. Tried the wetsuit boots with steel spikes embedded in the sole but got sick of their weight and broken zippers. I now use low cut wetsuit style shoes which are secured by a velcro tab across the top of the shoe and find them easily the best non slip footwear I have ever used. They are light and flexible and very comfortable. They are safe on uneven surfaces and provide a secure grip on slippery rock. There's a couple of brands available and though I have only used one, they look very similar. I purchased my last pair online a month or two ago and they arrived within a couple of days. I get a year or two out of each pair which is cheap given the number of hours I spend in them. Highly recommended. KB
  14. Well done. Nice fish and hopefully plenty more on the way for all of us! KB