toxicfish

thanks for the advice all, I can assure you I trim in all the way for aggressive turns, and the grip is still not there. It can be said that I could lower the motor by one hole, but then it will be sitting a bit low, causing drag and sinking the permatrim when on the plane.. I'm not after an increase in top speed, but rather better bite from the prop during turns, better acceleration instead of lots of slip etc, so I think I'll go with a 15pitch four blader and see what comes of it, I'll report my findings, but I do have to wait a month for payday to roll around ;-)

thanks mate, secretly I was hoping Huey would reply to my topic (aswell as those more learned than me) so that others considering a reprop would also benefit from the info... Errr, especially yammy 115 owners

G'day all, I'm after a bit of advice from the guru's out there- I'm looking to reprop my Yamaha 115HP 4Stroker (08 model)- but 1st i'll post the info that i'll be asked before advice can be recieved ;-) It's pushing a Whittley CR2080 (new name for the 550 model), it has a permatrim fitted (which rides as it should in the water, (it can be seen when on plane at full stick with trim) At present it is fitted with a 17K black yamaha stainless prop I achieve a WOT of 67kph at 6000rpm with about 50% trim; in flat conditions, trimming out further lets me hit the rev limited of 6100rpm at about 70% trim. In tight turns, the motor/prop lets go, which i wish to resolve, even trimmed all the way in. In a following sea, it does slip a bit. And, what i do with the boat - Fish, Ski, Wakeboard, SCUBA and Cruising/overnighting. So there ya have it folks, if anyone can offer some advice, that would be great as a starting point, I have been told 2 potential props: 1) Solas HR Titan 4 in a 17p (or a 15p if the Yammy cant handle a 17p 4 blader) 2) Solas New Saturn 17p Any ideas/advice greatly welcomed - i really would like to reduce prop slip at holeshot and also during hard turns (for skiing/boarding etc) Thanks in advance... Scott.

can i get that PM aswell, i'd like to modify my existing setup with something more practical... thanks in advance.

i havent been out for the whole month of september, but in august the ramp was open, the carpark was done along with the new drivethru section, are they now refurbing the actual ramp itself, and that's why it's now closed?

do they not need flushing? (must be part of the maintenance free 300hrs, or 21million female words) looked at heaps of them, broken on the ramp - that's why i got a Yammy JK

The way i see it, you have 2 options - 1) Use of a multimeter 2) The system method (one pin at a time, left to right -> Disconnect one from the old connector, then connect that to the new connector etc etc)

Are you using nauticpath charts or the navionics?

On my 115HP Yammy 4St, i find that if i don't fit the muffs "just right" water won't come thru the tell tale... The muffs i have are the rectangular "large" size, but they only pump thru from one side (single hose attachment on one side). If they are positioned just a little too far forward or rearward (even still covering the water inlet) they just wont allow the water up, if there's something better out there, let me know, i'm keen to get something better too...

depending on location, count me in, i'm in need of a license..

The lowrance unit gives you the choice of 2D or 3D viewing...

very nice mate, very nice. can i asked who you got to do the clears?

Thanks for posting this info Selous! That is very handy, and eye opening indeed. What a p!ss poor answer from Navionics. If there's a "problem" between the two, you think they would have a better stance than "oh well, thats how it is" especially after all the hype of the recent update.. I was so looking forward to using the 3D view to get a better idea of drop-offs etc, but this looks a little more than disappointing to me. I wonder what the deal is, the new update was supposed to make them compatible, but it looks more like a band-aid patch than a true compatability upgrade... very disappointing indeed. It would be interesting to know if the platinum+ range has a more ideal "resolution" for the HDS range, or if it going to be more of the same poop...

you could try checking the plugs yourself - i'm no mechanic but it's not too hard. You could use the lawnmower as practice, just like i did (it has one single plug, and the process for removal is the same). take off your cowling, locate the plugs (if in doubt, follow the leads that are thick and have a "cap" on the end, remove the cap and you will see the spark plug contact) slot your socket (preferably a spark plug socket, it has a little rubber cushion inside it, they are about $3.50 at supercheap auto and the like) and unscrew it. If it is pitted at the contact point, sludgy, or burnt out you found the problem. If you have someone you know/trust, by all means get them to check the plugs for you, but still have a crack at the lawnmower for practice, you may need to know how to one day on the water.. I agree with Billfisher though, it may be a carby adjustment issue, nothing really "wrong" just needs to be "tuned". I should've thought of that, but i'm in the world of EFI, and forgot about carbys altogether. (if you want to know how a carby works, go attack the lawn mower ;-) )

i would check the condition of your spark plugs. I dare say, if it is only 5 months old, but overdue for service, you'll probably just need to clean/replace the plugs. Can't quite explain why it worked fine on the flusher in the driveway, my only thought is that with a bit of a run before heading in for the day, your burnt off a bit of the crap that can gum up your plugs... either way, checking the plugs (remove, clean, refit) is free, so it won't cost you anything, and it'll give you something to do while your saving up the cash for a service. Re-test it in the driveway on the flusher before next launch...