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DerekD last won the day on January 9

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  1. Hi RHE, Just to confirm with the VBS - if they are in the outward position the drag (inertial resistance - like being on a spinning swing and putting your arms out to slow the spinning down) will be on and they will slow the line going out. Pushing them closer to the axle will result in less resistance when the line is going out and will allow you to cast further. I find on my Curado if I try and drop below 2 of the 6 in the outward position then I start to see overruns. Get into the habit of stopping the drum with your thumb as the lure just hits or is just about to hit the water. Alternatively stop the drum with your thumb when you have reached the point you want it to land. Getting good with this will give you the pin point accuracy that is the selling point of baitcasters. The other advantage of this is that you can back off the second drag (for the landing) located next to the star drag which will give you some more casting distance. This gentleman talks about the VBS in the open (outward position) which gives more control but less distance: As per what @big Neil said if you want further casting distance then go to an equivalent spinning reel. Getting off topic they use multipliers (baitcaster type overhead) for super long distance casting. Seems once the drum starts spinning it can be more energy efficient than a spinning reel. Have a look at this article - over 1000 feet (300m) casts. Regards, Derek
  2. Hi RHE, From past research the term bait in US speak is actually a lure. So a baitcaster is designed to be relatively lightweight for frequent and precision casting of lures. Not that you can't fish them with a real bait such as a livie or some sort of other edible stuff but it might be a little more challenging flinging your livie into snags. If you fish them with a lure you can set them so they are unlikely to backlash. As you get better with your thumb control then you can start to do more with them. The link I mentioned previously is: Regards, Derek
  3. Hi again, From the Shimano website: Shimano Tranx 300HG: Bearings 5+1 Max drag 8kg Gear ratio 7.6:1 Retrieve per crank 100cm Mono 9kg/160m Braid 50lb/190m weight 330g Shimano Jewel 5ft 10in: 1.78m line rating 4-8kg lure rating 7-23gm Sounds like something for bigger fish such as Mangrove jack, Barra, pelagics, big bass. Ultralight lures will be a pain. Next question where are you fishing? You mention you are in Queensland but what type of fishing areas do you have access to? Mangroves, open waterway. Do you want to do bait or lure? Most baitcasters I have used come with 3 different drag systems. A centrifugal one to ensure that the drum speed doesn't exceed the line speed (over run then birds nest) when casting out, a second one to stop the drum from turning when the lure lands and a third which is the drag to fight the fish. As you get better with the control of the reel (with your thumb) you can back the assisting drags off and get better distance out of your casts. One of the Americans (1rod1reelfishing) I follow on Youtube recently did a nice introduction to baitcasters video recently. I'll find the links later but google baitcasters on YouTube and there are plenty of videos out there. Regards, Derek
  4. Have you bought one yet? If not what is your budget? From various sources I've heard that if you are going to buy one then it is worth spending the money on a good reel otherwise you are wasting your time. I went with a Shimano Curado and a barra rod. If you have bought one then what did you buy (reel and rod - in particular what are the specs such as line and lure rating). Braid or mono. The reason I ask this is it will have an impact on what you are likely to be casting and what you might be chasing (bream, bass or barrra).
  5. I know this is going to sound like a fishing reports but it is a continuation of the advice started by Niall. Decided to meet up with Niall and a few others down at the water for some afternoon surface fishing. One of my mates decided to come down to but due to confusion he started off at a different section of the water. While waiting on the others I saw a guy with a red cap fishing in the distance and started calling out Niall. Wasn't him but he had picked up a bream. Using the retrieve Niall had suggested with a small sugapen I had some swirls, strikes and misses. Concept was working which is a good confidence builder. I got a text message from my mate and he'd landed this one. I joined him. Changed lures to an MMD splash prawn and when I blinked I suddenly was on this little one. I've had bream before on surface lure but this one was the first I'd caught while specifically targeting them. Decided to try again but on a sugapen. Saw a swirl and a follow and let the lure sit where it was and picked this one up (unfortunately with all the bouncing around it got a little sandy and I didn't want to dunk it and rinse it for a photo opportunity - a quick photo and back in the water): This one was legal. I can see why people get addicted to this - thank you Niall for inspiring me to put a bit more time into this. There was another strike on one of the surface lures which was either a tailor or I think a whiting. To pull out two fish in what some of the others considered pretty hard fishing based on some of their other sessions put a big smile on my face. Really pleasant learning session with some fun guys from diverse fishing backgrounds. I think there was as much talking about fishing as there was fishing. Thanks Niall and the others in the group. Derek
  6. Hi Niall, The domino effect of this article has started. I'd forwarded your article to a few friends already. On the way to my dad's for dinner tonight I had some time to kill. With the rising tide it meant one of the bays in the lower North Shore area was going to be nicely under water. I called a fishing mate in the area to come down and suggested that he had a look at your article and related link. He came down with light rod and an 85mm Sugapen copy. To be fair with the limited time available he had only partially read your article hence why he ended up with one of these rather than the bream I was hoping for: It really wanted that lure. Went 36cm. He is very good at what he does (e.g. kings off the rocks) but this was his first whiting on surface lure. I had a swipe from what I was pretty sure was a bream on my small sugapen and we both hooked up on a small tailor. Lovely way to kill a bit of time. Regards, Derek
  7. Hi Neil. My secret is that I don't have a wife, kids or girlfriend at the moment and a reasonable income. Apart from family stuff (usually scheduled in the evenings) my time is usually my own and I feel the well being benefits of fishing more than compensates me for any outlays I make. I've also had a great deal of fun meeting up, fishing with, teaching and learning from others on this site. Speaking of wife - I hope the current health concerns with yours get resolved in 2020 and that the two of you can get back to doing the fun stuff together. Also looking forward to your next trip to Sydney and doing some fun fishing related stuff. Best wishes, Derek
  8. Hi Niall, It was a pleasure to meet you today and I want to thank you again for a few reasons. Firstly, for taking the time to put together such a clear "how to" thread. Each year I try to pick up at least one more fishing skill set to the point that I am at least proficient at it. I was looking for one for 2020 and with the shore based kings being such hard work at the moment your topic came along at just the right time. I've done pretty well on the sugapens in the last few years but I've never bothered specifically targeting topwater bream. Your little pointers and verification that my technique was a good was a nice confidence builder even if the bream were not really playing. You were fun to talk to. BTW if you are going to talk about a trademark red cap can you please wear it as I was a little hesitant about accosting the only other person out there with a fishing rod. That you looked to be flicking a surface lure was part of the reason I opened the conversation with "Are you a Fishraider?". Looking forward to more fishing sessions with you and to see if I can get you on to some more kings. Regards, Derek
  9. Hi Sharknett. The PFD brand is Ultra and the model is Sport Fish suggested by the kayak shop at the time. Have a look at the attached photos. On the back lower section where the straps pass through there is no foam thus reducing the profile and making it a comfortable fit against the seat. The upper section has foam. I admit that it is not exactly high visibility yellow any more but it has seen a lot of hours on the water. I had a quick internet search and there is at least one shop in Sydney which sells them. You should be able to track down more information. Regards, Derek
  10. Hi All, Over the years I've seen a few threads come up from people looking at getting their first (fishing) kayak. A lot of the information the Fishraiders will provide often covers familiar ground. This post is an introduction to kayak fishing 101. I'm not sure at what point someone becomes an expert at something so please filter through the following information and make your own judgement. On a side note I've spent a lot of my life on or around the water and mucking around on various vessels. I've owned my Hobie Revolution 13 since late 2010 and have probably done over 1,000km on it on most of Sydney's major waterways at some stage. Just some things to think about. A lot of information (I've plenty more too) but use it as a check list: Kayak: Suitable load rating (I’m 108kg plus battery, fishfinder, fishing gear, water) Tracks in a straight line when paddling (mine doesn’t so I make rudder adjustments). Some come with a rudder so tracking is not a problem. You have to remember to lift it up when going over obstacles or getting it up on a jetty. Longer is faster but harder to store How are you or where are you going to store it. I bought a hoist from Ebay and hung it from the roof in my garage. My friends pay $300 per year to store theirs near the water. Easy to carry to water or has wheels (mine is 30kg but I can lift it). Walk 100m with it over your head and you will know it. At least 2 rod holders (I needed 3 – bream plus snapper rods with the third being a heavy rod or fly rod). Ideally put extensions in to get reels clear of water – you can make these from PVC. Hobie has off the shelf rod holder extensions. I personally don't like any rod holders in front of me as sometimes I have to move the rod tip over the bow of the kayak when fighting a fish. It can also get in the way of my casting. I created a bracket to put a third rod holder behind my seat. Decent paddle so you don’t snap it when pushing it hard Storage hatches for cases (e.g. tackle), water and a dry bag for keys, money, phone Colour: I chose blue as it is visible on the water for other boats and my safety . I don’t think the fish care about the colour. Yellow stands out too and I stayed away from red as red cars fade faster in the sun and I thought it might be a similar long term concern with a kayak. Unless you plan to do some undercover work then personally I think a camo pattern is a bad idea. Budget – my peddle drive Hobie was $2,300 back in 2010 and worth it but if you look around you can find new paddle kayaks for around $350. These get you out there. A few years down the track if you love it then you could probably still sell it for about $200 and by then you will know exactly what you want and why. Other stuff: Transport – how are you going to get it around? I have Thule roof racks and a cradle accessory which allows me to get a second kayak on the roof (I drive a hatchback). Soft roof racks could damage paint over time. There are some accessories (such as side bars) which you can clip on to roof racks which will make it easier to lift the kayak on to the roof for those who are a little less physically able. Not cheap but if they save your back they are worth it. Some people have made their own so you should be able to find out their solution with a bit of research. Foam or cradles on racks: If you strap a kayak down directly to the roof racks you are likely to get a dent in your kayak. Clark rubber insulation foam split and wrapped over bars is one way of preventing point loading. Cradles are another. Straps: Long enough to go under rack over kayak under rack again and back over kayak again, tightened off with the excess tied off. Mine are Thule 4m straps but as an idea of what you should be looking at I suggest these at Bunnings for $23: Life jacket: A higher rating is often required for offshore than inshore. If you get an inflatable lifejacket you can also use it for rock fishing but it must be inspected (can do by yourself) annually. I have an inflatable jacket but I usually use foam filled jacket specifically designed (high back to clear seat plus plenty of pockets) for use on the kayak. If kayak shop doesn’t have them then look at Whitworths or other boating shops for inflatable jackets. Double check the life jacket rating (e.g. 50S, 100, 150) required for kayaks on the RMS site for inshore and offshore before purchasing. The inflatable life jacket is more compact and generally cooler but the reason I use a foam jacket are twofold - firstly it is yellow which helps with on the water visibility. Secondly, I reasoned if I came off a kayak it was for something beyond my control like being hit by a boat - if as a result you are unconscious then it is a bit hard to operate an inflating jacket. The foam one is always operational but my inflatable life jacket has a higher rating. Spares: Are there critical spares for your kayak? On my Hobie drive the cable locknut came off - I now keep some spare ones and the spanner in an easy reach location. I have spare rudder pins inside the hatches and spare cables inside my kayak bag (gets left in the car). Trying to get spares in a rush on a weekend will always be a pain. In my case it might take me some time to get back to the car but once there I can be back on the water relatively soon. Even with the Hobie drive I always take the paddle with me too. One time I had to get back from Barrenjoey head to our launch point when the drive failed. If my friends had to tow me they would not have been happy. Your first time out: Read through (or skim through the applicable parts) the boating rules for your state to at least know your rights and obligations on the water. You don’t have to take the exam. Safety is a priority. Ideally head out with someone who has been doing it for a while and knows what they are on about (not just thinks they do). Shortcut to current RMS (Roads and Maritime Services) NSW safety guidelines for kayaks and canoes: Think about the gear you are going to take with you. What happens if it drops in the water or you roll the kayak (unlikely)? Travel light until you know your limitations. Have a plan. Where will you be using it? I've worked out plenty of launch locations over the years for the main waterways in Sydney by checking out the street directories, GoogleEarth, asking people or just having a look. What boat traffic is expected? Check the weather - I've had mates pushed ashore in really strong winds and they were not Newbies. On that day it could have ended up far worse, they came out of it safely but kayak bottoms were badly scratched up by oysters. Pace yourself. Getting along at 50% - 70% of what you can do will allow you to cover a lot of ground without getting exhausted. You don't need to impress anyone with how fast you get somewhere. Any distance out will be the same distance back. Wind and tide can work for or against you. Unlike a motorcycle keep your body vertical. Centre of mass will ensure the kayak moves back to an even keel. Worst waves are quartering (say at a 45° angle) from behind which results in a corkscrew type movement. If I have a choice I will try and hit the waves straight on or sideways as it allows the wave to gently lift me up and lower me down the backside. If the waves or wake start to break you will probably get wet. Practice on wakes and waves till you get comfortable. I head out frequently on Sydney harbour. There are often waves (or wakes from big boats). Sometimes I get wet. In my case the scuppers don’t work – for someone lighter they might. I keep a sponge on board to empty out the water around my backside. Keep a good look-out at all times. To me at least Sydney Harbour has a rhythm - the ferries follow certain routes at certain times. The sailing races happen about 1pm on a Saturday (depends on the sailing club). You will learn this by watching what happens around you. Understanding an area is a great confidence builder. Stay within your comfort zone where possible. Follow the shoreline (say 50m to 100m out) where possible (but give shore based anglers plenty of room) to ensure sufficient clearance between you and other harbour users. At some stage when it is a nice day and you have no gear on board flip your kayak under controlled conditions (e.g. near a beach). Can you get back on board and under way? Can you empty out the water? Clothing: You will have sunlight hitting you from above and from the reflection off the water. I use quick dry long pants and a long sleeved top. Consider a legionnaires’ cap or cap and buff. It can get hot out there so bring water. I also keep some money with me as there are a few vendors on the water from whom you can buy a coffee or other beverage. Bathroom breaks – if it gets too uncomfortable holding it in (some of my sessions are over 8 hours) I will sometimes head for the nearest secluded beach. Other people use different methods. There are restricted areas in Sydney Harbour such as the naval bases (Garden Island, Clifton Gardens and Balmoral). Keep outside the yellow marker buoys. The security guards get a little pissed off if you move into the restricted waters. They generally only yell at vessels inside this area but sometimes you will see an authority vessel come to request you to move on. You should not stop under the harbour bridge (which is a killer as there are often some very good schools of fish there) but make your way smartly through. Think about a bright orange flag for extra visibility. I don't and have had the same person have a go at me at least twice over the years for not being more visible on the water. Under maritime guidelines "The skipper must be in a good lookout position at all times to watch and listen carefully...". If he can't see a 4m plus bright blue kayak with 6 foot me in a bright yellow vest and bright blue cap I'm not sure what a 300mm x 300mm orange flag will do and a trip to Spec savers is in order. Having said that being right won't help me if I get run over. While I have been out on the water just after daybreak quite a few times you won't find me on the kayak between sunset and sunrise. If you do plan to head out at night then consider the following lifted straight from the RMS: "Paddle during daylight hours or, if paddling in restricted visibility or between sunset and sunrise, exhibit two all round continuous or flashing white lights, one attached to the canoe or kayak at or near the forward end and the other one attached at or near the aft end. The light is to be visible in clear conditions from a distance of one kilometre and may be masked so as not to interfere with the vision of the occupants, provided at least one light is visible from any direction". Storage: As mentioned, I have friends that store their kayaks by the water. $100 to $300 a year adds up over time so I went a different way. Some people will use cradles from the walls but I have a high garage with concrete ceiling so can store my kayak from the roof and above the car. Looking around I found a 60kg rated block and pulley system. There are multiple versions out there and some seem to be overly positive on the weight rating. Some key words to help you in your Google or Ebay search: Kayak / Hoist / Bike / Lift / Pulley / System / Garage / Ceiling / Storage / Rack / Capacity / 60KG. I got rid of the cheap Dynabolts which came with it and bought some genuine Dynabolts of similar size. The slings will be longer than you require so I shortened them by using an overhand loop knot to create a second hook point. Note: Depending on how far apart the straps are, the shape of the kayak, how smooth it is the straps will want to slide off towards the ends of the kayak. I put two lines (I like symmetry) from one strap to the other of the same length as the spacing between the roof pulleys. You can do it with one line. If you are really unlucky and you let go of the rope for the pulleys it can end up at the pulley block. With some spare line I tied a 1m tail on to it so I could always reach the tail rope. Put some thought into where exactly you are hanging it. If the power to the lights is concealed in the ceiling work out beforehand where it is likely to run (I expect square to the walls of the room). I really don't want to hear that one of the Fishraiders (or anyone for that matter) had an accident installing a hoist. As you are likely drilling into the roof with a hammer drill safety glasses and earplugs are important (of course you have those already). When assembling the blocks both ends of the rope finish up going through a hole in the bottom of the pulley block at which point you need a stopper knot. For security I used a compact loop knot and made sure that the fixing shaft in the pulley block passed through this loop knot (you will see what I mean when you install it). Will you want to put in a second or third system in the future? Does the body of the kayak block out the light? Where will it land when you lower it? Does it clear the garage door (I had to raise mine to get the necessary clearance)? Think about the spacing of the pulleys and where you will put the hook to tie off the extra line when it is in the raised position (the friction lock holds it in place really well but the tie off is a secondary safety measure). BTW you will likely have a deep sense of satisfaction when you have installed it and the kayak is hanging from the ceiling. When you pull it up for the first time see how the friction lock works and then try and lower it. I installed one for my neighbour but he isn't mechanically inclined and he damaged the lines a bit before he decided to ask me for a second demonstration - it doesn't need to be forced. You pull down on both lines to ease off the friction lock and while holding tight on one of the lines you can allow the other to feed out. Alternate pressure between lines to get the kayak to see-saw downwards. I land my kayak on foam pads. Mine have been is service for about 9 years and still work but keep an eye on the condition of the rope at any rub points. Fishfinder: I own a 2010 Hobie Revolution 13 and have installed a Humminbird on it years ago. I helped another two friends install fishfinders on their kayaks (another Revo and an Outback) so I have had some experience. At the time Hobies did not come with a transducer pocket. I didn’t want to damage the hull of my kayak so after some research I put together a through the hull arrangement in front of the drive well. The bad thing with that Humminbird unit is that the connections are permanently connected to the mounting bracket so I had to work out how to stow that when not in use. I use the rear hatch for the battery compartment and with a 7.2AH SLA 12V battery I can get a comfortable 10 hours plus use. A problem with the through the hull design is that the temperature sensor in the transducer will give false readings. If you get bubbles in the fastening medium you will also run the risk of getting false signals. The advantage with the through the hull design is that I won't knock off the transducer through bumps from submerged objects or poor handling. Working on the basis that I didn't want to drill any holes in my Hobie this was the shopping list I came up with when installing my Fishfinder. Anything you already have you should just tick off. I used the mast hole for a Ram ball on which my Fishfinder sits. I had to put a second ball on my mast pole for out of use storage. I've included where I got some of the equipment as I believe that it shouldn't be a conflict of interest with the site sponsors. 1x Fishfinder 1x Ram Fishfinder Mounting kit to suit mounting bracket holes - Hobie agent at Mona Vale should have these. I went to Whitworths for the shorter fastening bolts and domed nuts. 1x Ram ball mast mount to match mounting kit. I think it will be the smaller 25mm ball – Hobie agent 1x tube of Goop (some people use silicone) – Hobie agent 1x foam transducer pocket (Polyethylene foam should be the stuff) – Hobie agent or electronics packaging 1x Battery holder for rear hatch (Hobie now do fit for purpose but I prefer my option as it is sealed from water) – Hobie agent 1x U-bolt Ram ball (for storing mounting kit in kayak when not in use) – agent for Ram located in North Sydney 1x fuse holder and rated fuse (see fishfinder manual) – Jay car 1x extension power cables to reach battery – Jay car 1x Heat shrink tube to protect joins of Fishfinder power cable to extension power cable Some cable ties for cleaning up loose cables Some time to install it all. I placed the transducer between the mast pole and the mirage well. I didn't want it behind the well as I didn't want to disturb the signal with water coming off the drive fins. I didn't scuff the kayak surface but I did clean it as best I could. I made a pool with the foam and locked it in place with Goop. I then warmed up the remaining Goop and carefully poured it into the pocket and then worked the transducer into place trying to rock out any air bubbles. In my case the rear hatch is not easily accessible when on the water so I used it for battery storage instead. Water will get in the kayak so make sure any joins have been soldered and sealed in heatshrink. Don't forget the fuse. I wouldn't want a 12V battery shorting out. I used a Hobie gear bucket and trimmed out some tabs to make room for the battery. Cables coming up underneath the hatch. The mounting bracket is in its operational position. I just have to clip the head unit in place. Mounting bracket in its stored position. BTW my Marine Goop dried reasonable hard (still has some flex) and I have it mounted in front of the mast pole so I don't think I get a lot of flex in that part of the hull. It has been in place for about 6 years. Fishfinder in operational position on Sydney harbour. I use the same head unit on both my kayak and boat and there seems to be very little resolution loss (if any) with the through the hull set-up. Hope the above information is of help to others starting out. Regards, Derek
  11. Hi Will, MattyMattMatt was in the same place as you are. Since he started that thread (pasted above) he has been working on the soft plastics, learned to catch squid, put out big baits, caught his first jewfish (mulloway). Last time we talked he was still chasing his first king. Currently your questions are a little too general. Part of your learning curve will be targeting specific species and then also really looking at and then understanding your fishing environment. I've been fortunate enough to meet a few people in the fishing industry who are very good at what they do and most of those people are really switched on and can mix and switch it up. Part of the advice to MMM was find a mentor (or even better more than one). Listen to what they say but learn the why behind what they do. Filter through the advice to find out what works for you. Do not take what people tell you as set in stone as they are probably still growing and refining their techniques too. Soft plastics and flathead is an excellent place to start and ideally go with someone who fishes them successfully. Being shore based is not necessarily a limitation. My biggest fish to date was a 104cm jewie in middle harbour on a freshly caught squid. Regards, Derek
  12. Looks like the rod on the floor copped a beating too.
  13. Came across this one a while back on YouTube while looking for stick bait action. Not mine but so worth it to see the flying fish and the scenery in Cape York,
  14. Your spool capacity of your 4000 sized Shimano reel is about 270m -300 of 15lb depending on which braid you use. You have only 160m of braid. To get the best casting distance out of line you do not want to under fill (less distance) or over fill the spool (bird nests). The way most of us get around this is start with mono and then finish with braid up to the perfect level. I do this on all my 1000-2500 outfits. Setting up the first time is a pain but once set up whenever I need to replace the braid I rip it off till I have reached the mono backing and then just put a new spool of 150m of braid (same brand and class as previous) back on the reel. On my 4000 reels I run 1m of mono to ensure good bite to the spool and then braid the rest of the way. I'm pedantic enough that to set up the smaller spools I put the braid on first, then the mono to the optimum spool depth and then end for end the whole line. Easier when you have two reels of the same model.
  15. For most of your fishing I think 160m will be enough. I doubt I've ever seen more than 100m off my Stradic 4000. I went the full spool (270 -300m) of braid on a "what if" basis and I can afford it. When the time comes your challenge will be ripping off enough of the mono backing so that the spool fills properly to the top with the braid. Before you spool it up grab the spool of braid and a spool of leader and take the time to practice your joiner knots. Test them out properly - even take a couple to breaking point to get a feel for it. Once you are confident you have mastered the joiner knots then you can look at replacing a lot of your mono with braid.