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DerekD

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DerekD last won the day on July 31

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  1. Hi @pscarey, Awesome write up and worth the wait. It has been a reel (pun intended) pleasure watching your development over the last few months and thanks for the company during the lockdown. Now that things are opening up we will have a lot more opportunities to try more things. Love the profile picture and @Wes will have a high bar to follow when he gets around to doing his report. Regards, Derek
  2. Hi Niall, thanks for posting mate. I always enjoy reading your reports. Hope to catch up with you soonish for a fish. Got something planned for Saturday the 23rd in the inner west if you are around and weather permits. Regards, Derek
  3. Hi Bear, Wonderful to hear from you. I've been luckier than most in that I work in an essential industry so that has been as stressful for me as other people. On the downside I've lost access to most of my favourite fishing locations so have spent time mentoring others instead. They have had some successes (including a rat king on bream gear which was landed). You are probably all over it (and it will be more satisfying if the two you achieve it yourselves) but if you need some help on the king front just reach out. Regards, Derek
  4. Hi Mate, Long time no chat. Usually the lowest and largest eye on the rod is a good indicator as to the function of the rod. On a spinning rod the bottom eye is larger than that of an equivalent overhead (game or baitcaster) as there is a whipping motion of the line as it comes off the reel and the larger eye does not constrain the movement. On the overhead we are talking a drum so it is guiding the line and needs less space for movement. Regards, Derek PS. Looking at the photo with the relatively small bottom eye and that the guides are top and bottom bound I'd be leaning towards it being an overhead rod.
  5. Hi BH, You've just hit on one of the two topics that really get under my skin (the other is barometric pressure). Many years of TV program hosts talking about within 1 hour either way of high or low tide is the best time to fish has resulted in many people blindly believing or repeating it. Here is my take on it. Firstly, the whole harbour or water system does not start firing up as soon as the tide falls within these magical windows. If it were that simple I'd check out the tide charts and then head down to the water, catch fish for 2 hours and then go on to my next activity. Doesn't work like that for me or anyone I fish with. Do I believe tides matter - on the whole, yes. It is not so much the tide but what is happening during the tide and at specific locations. Examples: Mangroves. On a rising tide fish can move into them to pick at insects or food dropping from the trees. On a falling tide food can get washed out. Back eddies around structures in the water depending on which way the tide is flowing. These might trap small baitfish. Sand flats when the fish can move in to feed on yabbies or crustaceans and the oysters on the rocks Long reef as the incoming tide hits the wall and pushes the smaller fish over the lip Spit bridge in Sydney. There is a lot of water coming through that narrow neck into and out of Middle Harbour meaning the tidal flow is pretty quick through there. Fish will generally not want to work hard for their food as it wastes energy (watch trout in a stream as they hide in the eddies created by structure and pop into the stream to grab an insect then pop back to their holding point). On the low and high tide as the water changes direction it is easier for them to sit in that area. They could also hide in the eddies in front of or behind the bridge pylons and waiting for food to come past. Oyster leases as the water moves over them exposing the other residents to the predatory fish. I do keep a tide chart in my car. On low tide there are areas I like to fish (e.g. walking on the rocks and oysters around the edges of bays). High tides make these impractical to fish so I head to other spots that give me good access on a high tide. Fish are also opportunistic feeders. Put the right thing in front of them at the right time and they'll probably take it regardless of what the tide is doing at that particular time. When my line is in the water I have a chance at catching a fish so my approach has been to get out there and fish whenever I can. Just some food for thought. Derek
  6. Hi again, Good question academically but I think impractical in the reel (pun intended) world. My thought process will hopefully clarify why. I own overhead game outfits on which I preset the drag and I think it makes sense. If I send the drag lever to sunset I know what it is without having to worry how close I am to breaking strain. With spinning outfits the situation is a lot more fluid. First point is I back my drag off at the end of each fishing session to make sure I don't compress the washers (especially felt ones) over time. This means each time I go fishing I'll have to reset the drag again which is a pain. Next thing is how tight the drag is can often be dependent on the fight. If I'm over reef and chasing kings I've had times where the drag is locked even before the fight. Similar situation would be for fish like mangrove jacks (not from personal experience) where they race out and then race back into structure. From all reports you need to stop them quickly. In Sydney harbour I might end up hooked on a salmon or king while chasing smaller fish such as flathead or snapper or similar. If I have room to let them run I'll let them but if they are heading to structure then I might have to tighten up on the drag pretty quickly to turn their head. On the light gear my approach has been to start relatively low with the drag and if I hear clicks from the drag when I'm flicking lures then I gradually tighten up the drag till the clicks stop. If a fish such as a king hits it then I let it run for a little bit and then gradually just tighten up a few clicks at a time till I stop the first run. If I can do that then I have a very good chance of landing the fish. At this point I will also drop the drag back a few clicks to give myself an extra margin of error. Also note as mentioned above, as line is peeling off the reel the diameter gets smaller and that same drag gradually increases in resistance. Regards, Derek
  7. Hi NutsAboutFishing, Any particular rod and reel setups you are talking about? Bream/Snapper/Megladon? Regards, Derek
  8. My condolences to Stewy and the rest of your family.
  9. I know them both very well. I spend a lot of time in that area. PM will be sent but give me about 20min to finish dinner. Have your computer handy.
  10. Hi FakeWindows? Where are you based (suburb)? Might need to have a chat to work out where you are at (fishing wise in this case - gear, experience, etc.) Regards, Derek
  11. I've heard of some stupidly amazing captures as a result such as a 200kg (not actual figures as this is from memory) on 8lb line. The fish took the bait and the boat backed up quick enough that they got to touch the leader before the fish realised it and I suspect gaffed it. This was second hand from someone else so don't take this as written in stone. Had a quick look and found this article. In particular look at catches number #53 (5 minutes) and #45 (two minutes) on 2lb tippet: https://www.sportfishingmag.com/top-100-world-record-fish/
  12. I have some friendly social fishing comps with mates and our call is the fish is counted when it is in genuine and easy netting distance. Ideally it is landed which takes it beyond all doubt but we came up with that guideline so we wouldn't get penalised by a bad job at netting the fish. If you'd had a net with you could you have genuinely netted the fish? It sounds like the only reason for losing the fish was to try and get the hooks out. In my eyes that counts as a catch. The problem will be you don't have a definitive length so it makes the actual PB size a little fuzzy.
  13. Queensland also had no release laws on carp. About a decade ago there was even a $220,000 fine if you were caught releasing carp into the wild. Not sure if it is still applicable. Found the original reference: https://www.fishingworld.com.au/news/noxious-fish-net-big-fines
  14. My collection from top to bottom: Cross fire lure 230 (bent minnow on steroids on steroids) Ocea Pencil 150S 150mm 60g Rapido F190 Chug Norris 150 and 180 River2Sea Dumbbell pop 200 Ebb tide Heru skipjack 90 (wood) Ebb tide Heru skipjack 120 (wood) Blue fish 100 (Handcrafted replicas) in white and what my friend caught the 1.20m king on. Blue fish 100
  15. Hi KingBonito, I've got some suggestions for lures to look at but I come a bit unstuck on the working part of your question. I'm in a position where I used to be able to fish off a rockshelf after work (pre-covid). One of my co-workers chases nothing but big fish most of the time and what most people would consider a good catch he would consider bait. He is the only person I know who has landed several marlin off the rocks live baiting so that is not really an understatement. One of his goals was to catch a metre plus king off the rocks and I was there when he did so. He was using a white wooden stickbait in the wash and I saw the kingfish come up take it and then turn back down. The fight was in one word - "brutal". Winner take all. The kingfish ended up being 1.20m long and 15.6kg. Since then I've picked up several stickbaits and poppers from the same source. These are beautifully made and around the $70 mark. The problem is that I haven't been able to use these very often. I think the stickbait he was using was the Heru Ulua and this was matched with size #8 heavy duty split rings and BKK hooks. Look for the Heru skipjack as a starting point. Cast well and behaves really nicely when punched back across the surface. I'll grab a photo of my collection and edit this post later. It includes the Chug Norris and the cheaper river2sea poppers as well as the more expensive ones I mentioned above. Another beautiful lure I've picked up which has a lot of potential is the Jackfin Stylo 210 - it is a really good garfish imitation. Skips over the surface when worked back. Regards, Derek
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