DerekD

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Everything posted by DerekD

  1. Hi Will, With the rod and reel you have invested in I think it is worth getting into braid a little down the track. Once you have learned to fish braid and the little tricks then it is hard to go back. Sensitivity is awesome. Improved casting distance. Going to state the obvious - the experience comes with trying things. Don't let that put you off. Plenty of information out there. The financial thing is another matter. I learned the double uni knot from a knot book which came with Berkley fireline. Used it happily for over a decade. Also learned the Surgeon's joiner knot (very easy). Found out later on that doubling the braid in the double uni made the knot even stronger. These days I mostly use the FG knot but it took a while for me to make the jump. I'd seen plenty of videos on tying the FG knot but I wasn't happy with most due to the hassle of keeping tension in the line and line wastage. One of the Fishraiders posted the following video but I use a different finish than the half hitches shown and you will see that in the second link: Now the finish of the knot can be found at a little after five minutes on this link: I can manage to do it with the really fine lines but that has taken a bit of practice. With 10lb braid or heavier it comes up a treat. Generally my leaders are 50% to 100% more than my main line. Regards, Derek
  2. I got involved with Fluorocarbon lines when I started fishing braid over a decade ago. One of the selling points was that it had a spectrum index similar to water which made it difficult for fish to spot it. Years ago I read an article which came as a result from some testing in the tuna fishing industry. The long liners alternated their droppers between fluorocarbon and Monofiliment for the whole long line. About 90% of the tuna hooked up when they did the test were on the Fluorocarbon. I wish I could find the article again. Personally, in the light leaders (12lb and under) I use Nitlon because it reasonably supple and hasn't really let me down. Years ago I switched back from Fluoro to Mono in the 20lb and above leaders because I didn't like the stiffness of some of the leaders I was using. @Volitan recent testing is another reason for me to stick with the monos for some aspects of my fishing - thanks for sharing your data. One of the other reasons I still use the fluoro is that it sinks better (unweighted) than mono so it can be handy for my fly leaders.
  3. An excellent idea. Thank you.
  4. Hi @savit, Just a follow up regarding the handles for the rod cases. I took your advice and found the 8mm diameter Bunnings shock cord ($10). Then I found some hose with an ID of 10mm (2m = $11). The first attempt was with lashing twine. While I think in the long term it would have been effective it was a pain to get the needle and thread through the rubber. I gave up after 5 passes and some whipping. This is take two which I have been testing for several weeks. There have been some learnings. The hose makes a pretty comfortable grip. Since it comes coiled it has a natural curve when it goes on the case. The cable ties have worked pretty well so far with no obvious signs of slippage. The downside is that there are some sharp points where I have trimmed the cable ties back. I'm thinking of filing them back a little further to take away the edge and then put a dollop of melt glue or silicone to give them a smooth profile. Thank you all for your suggestions. Derek
  5. I swung past my local tackle store - I own one AAS-270H DPSM 7ft 2 piece Spin 14 - 30lb 10 - 50g now. It would only be a sickness if I couldn't afford it and was taking food off the table from the kids that I don't actually have. Kind of like the pokies but with a feel good win every time I walk out of the store.
  6. How about a budget too. Doesn't need to be stupid expensive but an extra $50 here and there can make a nice jump up in the gear. Do you want to muscle them or will you learn to play them? I like to play them and the gear can be a lot lighter. I like catching small kings on 2-4kg bream gear. @JonD has been picking some awesome kings on pretty light gear too - have a look at some of his posts.
  7. I assume one of the freshwater fish you will be chasing is bass. The following is a shopping list based on what I use. Feel free to mix and match it up as you go along. Most of the stuff will be interchangeable between salt and fresh water. Celta spinner - 2 per pack for about $10. Get the size 3 (5gm) for the extra casting distance. Cast out and wind it back as slowly as you can without snagging up. My best session with one of these was 21 bass in 1 hour. The sugapen in 70 - about $23. Suggest silver bait fish and a semi-translucent. Has to be worked with a sharp stutter tip wobble to get the walk the dog effect. Will work with both fresh and salt water. Duolock clips and swivels to match. Total under $10. Make sure they are compact with a nice loop but still stronger than your line rating. Halco twisty 10gm in silver. About $6. Very effective when pelagics are feeding on the surface. I change the trebles out for a Gamakatsu large eye single hook in about a size #1 or #2 as it is a stronger hook and easier to remove when the fish is jumping around. Use these with the swivel and snap mentioned above to reduce line twist from the lure. For plastics I'd suggest some 2" grubs and 3" and 4" minnows (matches profile of most bait fish). I use Berkley Power Bait and Power Grubs as they play well together but I don't mix different brands in the same box as some don't play well with each other. Z-mans are notorious for this. One of the different brands will start to melt away. Stay away from Berkley gulps. In principle they are genius - a biodegradable, edible lure. In practice the liquid in the bags can leak out and make a mess and the lures dry up. Paddle tails and wriggle tails can be very effective as they generate their own movement. Squidgy make a nice range but bang for buck not brilliant. For the 2" grubs I use Gamakatsu 211 ball head jigs 1/8oz with a size #1 or #2 hook. You'll probably have to order these in specially. For the 3" minnow I like TT bullet head tournament jig heads: 1/8oz #1H hook for subtle presentation 1/6oz #1H for a balance between distance and sink rate or the 1/4oz #1H for when I am chasing pelagics or covering distance. In Sydney we could be fishing for flathead and end up with a king on the line which is why I have a preference for the H (heavy gauge) hooks rather than the fine ones. For the 4" minnow I like the TT bullet head tournament jig heads: 1/4oz #1/0H hook. Swing past Daiso (Japanese bargains) store and pick up a flip top plastic box with several compartments to store the various jig heads in. Most bargain shops will probably have something similar. For storage of the plastics leave them in their original bags till you need one. I put these bags in a bigger bag. Ecogear ZX40 - about $19. A very effective blade type lure once you work out how to fish them. Don't fish them in snaggy areas. Working these across sandy bottoms will pick up a variety of species. I have a black one, the bamboo one and some shiny ones. Depending on how you are going with your budget we can continue further but the above is a good starting point without going overboard. The straighter you rig your plastics the better they will swim. Regards, Derek PS - suggest you stay away from ultralight lures till you get familiar with your gear. If you don't wind on the line under tension there is a good chance you will get the odd birds nest or two. Rarely an issue with 1/8oz and above and the woven braids that are available these days..
  8. Was going to get to that next... I'm gently leading you into more and more purchases. I don't want to bill shock you... 😊
  9. Hi again, The palomar is an excellent knot for terminal tackle such as swivels but I find it there is a little too much line wastage. Unless you are using clips, each time you change lures that leader will get shorter and shorter. Try learning the uni (universal) knot. When you get that right you usually only end up trimming 10mm off the tag end. It is a slip knot so you don't have to tie it directly next to the lure. I might tie it 10-15cm up the line (keeps the hooks away from my hand when tying) and then gently slide it down to the lure. Be sure to test it and leave at least 5mm of tag when finished. I use 3 or 4 turns. With practice it is pretty easy to tie. More information to come. Derek
  10. Hi again, I can see this thread going on for a while longer. If you go with my recommendation for the 6lb Kairiki or Daiwa J-braid before you spool it just pick it up and have a good look at how fine it is. It looks stupidly skinny but don't let it worry you as it is amazingly strong. If you try breaking it by gradually loading it up between your two hands I'm pretty confident it will cut into your skin before it breaks. I want you to have a bit of faith in the line selection and not get panicky and decide you need to go up to 8 or 10lb. I'd recommend getting some leader for shock absorption, abrasion resistance and an easy way to handline up the fish at the end of a fight (depending on how big the fish is). Depending on what I am fishing for with the outfit you are putting together I'll use between 6lb and 10lb leader with 8lb being my go to. I like Nitlon as it feels pretty supple for a fluorocarbon. Length of leader will come up as a query. Some people recommend X rod lengths of leader. I'm of the opinion about 80cm is sufficient. My leader length is selected to ensure the knot does not pass through the runners. If you can feel it passing through the guides there is some stress in the system. I know there are knots which are slim profile but I've heard first person before where it has still damaged the guide. Not likely but still possible. I started with Berkley Fireline Crystal in the 4lb many years ago. It is a fused braid and was one of the better value lines out there but it had its issues (fluffed up and weakened over time). The knot Berkley recommended for joining the main line to the leader is the double uni knot. I got very good at it with extremely little line wastage. In time I found out that doubling the braid up resulted in an even stronger knot. I've heard it referred to as the double double uni knot. A knot that is gaining a lot of popularity as one of the strongest out there is the FG knot. While I could tie it and have seen a few methods of tying the FG knot I stayed away from it as it was a pain to tie (most require various ways of keeping the tension in the lines) and usually had a fair bit of line wastage. If you are prepared to take the time it is worth learning. One of the Fishraider posted a method of tying it that turned the concept on its head and that is the method I now use. It can be found in this video. I use one or two half hitches to lock it up but then use a different method than the multiple half hitches shown and you will see that in the second link: Now the finish of the knot can be found at a little after five minutes on this link: These days I can manage to do it with the really fine lines (4lb braid and 6lb leader) but that has taken a bit of practice. With 10lb braid or heavier it comes up a treat. Generally my leaders are 50% to 100% more than my main line. The braid should be skinnier than the leader as it needs to bite in. Regards, Derek
  11. Hi RHE, Out of curiosity have you recently made the decision to get into this style of fishing or are you upgrading from your current set-up? Depending on the answer I may be able to help short-cut your learning process (although working stuff out for yourself is extremely satisfying). BTW - no offence meant to SB88 but I'd avoid the ugly stick elite rod. The beauty of the graphite rods these days is that the sensitivity and response is phenomenal when compared to the older fibreglass or fibreglass tipped rods. While the Elite might be a nice all rounder it would be wasted on the Stradic you are thinking of getting. It would feel spongy. Kind of like putting a sports racing bike on knobbly off-road tyres. The fibreglass rods are great boat rods and will take a bump or ten. The graphite rods bruise if bumping up against say the side of a tinny. I've got graphite rods I've been fishing hard for 10 plus years but I don't abuse them. I don't bang them around and at the end of the fishing session they go back in their rod cases. I believe more rods probably get damaged by poor handling than through fishing. BTW the graphite rods conduct electricity so keep them away from power lines and lightning storms. They are strong but don't high stick well. Regards, Derek
  12. Hi again RHE, If you haven't come across it yet have a look at YouTuber Sand Flat Fishing Australia and especially his top water fishing such as whiting. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJszBDEnd9m7siqN7QE67dQ As you are in Queensland it sounds like the fishing you have available will be similar to what he is doing. He often mentions the gear he uses (e.g. Atomic ArrowZ, sugapens, etc.) If you haven't discovered them have a look at the Sugapens or similar. Top water surface fishing is pretty addictive. We have been using these on the sandflats as well as freshwater for bass and redfin. Early this year I had three big strikes in three seconds on the sandflats and hooked up on the third. Turned out to be a very nice salmon. The big splashes as the fish just missed the lure got the heart racing. Another Queenslander with a YouTube channel worth looking at is DrewM. You can blame me for the additional gear you might decide you need to buy after watching these channels. I don't mind. Regards, Derek
  13. DerekD

    First King

    Just because I'm not in the mood to type lots this evening have a look at this thread that I and others responded to a while back: Note that the original query was relating to boats and kayaks but then branched out into shore based and techniques to catch them. A lot of information in there.
  14. Hi RHE, Braid generally over tests so my advice would be to go lighter as you will notice the difference in casting distance and if you get your knots right the strength is pretty impressive. For example I've been using Berkley X5 in white recently on a couple of my reels. While the American rating on the box is 4lb it also lists the rating under the Japanese testing system as 11lbs. In your case I'd probably fish a skinny 6lb braid. A couple of my mates are loving the Daiwa J-braid. I haven't used it but I have set a couple of mates up on the Shimano Kairiki (about $30). I've landed kingfish to 70cm on this gear (2500 reel with 2-4kg rod) so once you learn how to fish it you'll be pretty impressed at what it is capable of. One of my mates was really surprised at the difference a lighter braid made on casting distance. I was out-casting him by 3 to 5m. Might not sound like a lot but if I multiple this by 40m (20m to the left and 20m to the right of where I stand) I'm potentially fishing another 120m² to 200m² more area than him. When you spool up make sure you have sufficient backing so that the braid sits just below the lower lip of the spool. For years I've been recommending the Shimano Raider Bream Finesse 762 2-4kg 3-12gm and at a price point of about $100 if you shop around (try site sponsor Dinga). Recently I have been trying the Frogley Atomic ArrowZ range of rods and been impressed at them. Suggest you look at the Estuary Series and in particular the AS-270UL VSSM 7' 2-piece Spin 3 - 10lb 3 - 14g. Currently I've been seeing them at around $140. A few of my mates are using the Jewel range and really like them. I prefer a short butt as the longer one bumps up against my arm when I am fishing lures with the rod tip down. 7 foot or longer for tip speed and hence casting distance. 1 guide for every foot length of rod plus one more. For example a 7 foot rod should have 8 guides. An ergonomic handgrip as you will be doing a lot of casting. Just some things to think about. Regards, Derek
  15. What line are you thinking of putting on the reel? Braid, mono or fluoro? What weight rating. For a reel in that size (2500) I'd personally be using 4lb (up to 6lb) in braid but you might have something else in mind. What are you thinking of fishing for with it? The line rating will have an impact (albeit minor) on the recommended rod. Do you have a budget in mind?
  16. In answer to the original post - I don't bother with a loop knot for plastics as I think it is a waste of time. The loop knot is supposed to allow for less restricted movement of the lure, especially in the case of very lightweight flies (e.g. eye flies). Even a lightweight soft plastic complete with jig head has some weight - call it 3 to 12gms for discussions sake. Depending on how I am using the plastic I might I use an aggressive sharp flicking motion or a more subtle twitching motion. Each time I do this the force is transmitted down to the lure which due to mass and the resistance of water has an opposing resistance. That loop knot will develop a fold at the point at the where the eye meets the line. Loop knot won't act like a loop knot for very long under normal fishing. Yes I am an engineer and yes I overthink things and this is the conclusion I came to several years ago. I could also be wrong. I just use a uni knot. Quick and easy to tie and if you do it right there is very little line wastage which reduces the frequency of the times you have to tie on a new leader.
  17. Going to be picky here - I don't think it is the half blood knot. I actually think it is the "locked" half blood knot as he has put the tip of the line through the second loop he created to create the lock. Details... details.... details
  18. Hi Fishii, Shimano Raider snapper 762 (5-8kg) 15 to 45 gm lure weight. Should be able to pick it up for $100-$110 with some careful shopping. Try Dinga. The other one I have been looking at recently is the ArrowZ range of rods. In this case I'd suggest picking up the AAS-270H DPSM 7ft 2 piece Spin 14 - 30lb 10 - 50g. Should be able to find it for under $140. I don't own one yet as I didn't want to stop using the Raider Snapper but I've bought a couple of other rods in their line up and am happy with those. Regards, Derek PS. What reel are you thinking of matching it with? I'm running Shimano 4000 (Stradics or a Sedona) with 10 to 15lb line on mine. It balances pretty well.
  19. Hi all, I’m in a philosophical mood today. The topic of conversation is “wind knots”. Over the years I have seen the term wind knot come up many times in a fishing context, often resulting in some sort of bird’s nest of the line. Wind is a lovely example of a heteronyms (same spelling but more than one pronunciation). Problem being is that both options are feasible in a fishing situation so I was curious as to other peoples’ interpretation of the term “wind knot”. Most often I hear people talking about win-d (as in a stiff breeze or rhyming with pinned) knots. When fly fishing this makes sense as the line can be affected in mid-air by a breeze and you can end up with a few overhand knots in your leader or tippet if your technique is not up to par on the day. This could also be applicable to bait casters casting in to the face of a breeze where the lures slows down against air resistance but the drum keeps turning due to momentum and then results in a bird’s nest. For a spinning reel this interpretation doesn’t make sense as the slowing down of the cast weight leads to a slowing of the rate at which line is pulled off the spool. The other option is wine-d (as in to wind up a clock mechanism or rhyming with kind) knots. The context in which this makes sense is when you are using ultralight lures and you are not winding the line on to the spool with sufficient tension. On the way out the loose loops (especially with fused braid) can grab other and result in the bird’s nest. How do other people pronounce the term wind (win-d or wine-d) knot and what is your understanding of the underlying mechanism resulting in the bird’s nest or similar? Regards, Derek
  20. Hi Will, Short answer is yes - but that it didn't have FK written on the spool left me a little uncertain. The Snapper Raider 762 rod was a present to me over a decade ago from my mother so I wanted a nice reel for it and matched it with the Stradic 4000FI (which I still use and which still performs very well) and 15lb braid. A couple of years ago while putting the Stradic in for service when the kings were around I bought a Sedona with 15lb braid which I now use when I want to take the rod out on the kayak. If it gets wet a $90 reel is less painful to damage than a $200 plus reel. While in my local fishing store I saw and picked up the Stradic 4000 FK and thought why not. It is the least used of my 4000 reels but such a nice reel. The new FL looks really nice but I can't justify it (yet). On a related matter - how have you been going with the new rod and lures? Regards, Derek
  21. Two or so years ago Fishraider @HenryR on a trip with @krauseoutside of Sydney heads hooked up on a huge Cobia (1m plus). For those who missed the write up with photos: I've also heard some reports of Cobia being seen in Middle Harbour last summer.
  22. Pretty sure I could too but don't have a photo. Do have this one though, which I picked up on a SP while in a friendly competition with a mate. As it was caught/hooked (albeit foul) on a lure it counted towards my point score - note that the plastic is 3" (75mm) long.... Shortly after my mate hooked this one which under my rules counted towards his point score and left me laughing out loud.
  23. Good memory Waza, This was the one caught in Mosman bay. Left me doing a double take. Shame I didn't have a better camera with me but they are a beautiful fish. Regards, Derek
  24. Dang.... and I'd just found it on the Bunnings site. The 9mm ID by 25mm OD looked like a viable option. Back to the old drawing board. I have some whipping twine and needles from when I was making up some safety ropes for my game gear. This is one. I'll create the loop in a similar way. It comes up neatly. Will do a test run with that same method and the 8mm shock cord you suggested. If I'm going to do it I may as well put in that little bit of extra effort for a nice finish as I'll be using it for a long time. I love these little projects from time to time. I'll have about 7 of these handles to make up once I find a method I'm happy with.
  25. Thank you! I will also be researching some neoprene tube to slip over this. It is a very workable solution and meets my other criteria. Would you tie it or stitch and whip it? Just realised that even cable ties could work for the binding.