Bill S

Geoff, you can't avoid fluctuations in pressure within the hubs. Well, unless you never take the trailer out of your yard Generally pressure will go from neutral to positive then a rapid decrease as the trailer hubs are dunked in the Briney, back to neutral in the car park then positive on the trip home. Back to negative as you wash down after a day out. Then back to neutral as the hub cools when not in use. The DuraHubs design handles these changes with no input from you using the membrane to decrease sharp fluctuations in pressure within the hub. A very simple design that works . The oil filled hub is not some new idea either, most prime mover/tractor trucks have employed oil hubs for years. Don't just take my opinion as gospel though. Search the web for DuraHub or oil filled hubs. You'll find many positive comments about the system and some big names in boat and trailer manufacturers have seen the light and fit oil hubs as standard. My glass boat weighs in at 1700KG wet and all four wheels are sunk on every launch/retreive. Cheers Bill

I consider myself pretty anal when it comes to looking after my gear. As an ex mechanic running a 2 axle trailer, stripping 4 hubs down to regrease becomes an enjoyable mornings task. Nice to get my hands dirty again . However, I now run 4 oil hubs and haven't suffered a spot of trouble. The hubs have a clear inspection window which allows a visual inspection of the hub oil level and condition to be made. The hubs run cooler on long runs as the oil allows better heat transfer than grease and water ingress would be evident as the oil would turn cloudy. The rubber plug centered in the window has a thin membrane area to allow for cooling/heating of the hub and won't force oil out or suck water in. So,no more greasing the hubs before launching the boat and no more stripping the hubs to see if they're OK, Just a quick walk around the trailer and you're done. I check bearing end play every 20,000K or yearly, so far I haven't needed to make any adjustment in 4 years. I'm very happy to recommend these units to anyone, I purchased mine at Supercheap and the brand name is Dura Hub. Given I purchased them some years back I don't remember the price. DuraHub Website Cheers Bill

White 1" single tail grubs work for me, burned back. The faster the better. Don't try and let them catch it, you couldn't wind fast enough to outrun them. Cheers Bill

Had a rod made up on the this Lamiglas blank, came up very nice too. Model XSH 156 3L Length 13' Sections 3 Line 6-10 Lure 1/4-1/2 Butt Diameter 0.610" Tip Size 5 Average Weight 4 5/16 Colour Translucent Brown Material Graphite Might be a bit exxy/fragile for the rocks?? Bill

Try searching Sydney Rod Builders Club on the net. Might be just what you seek.

Hi Arman You probably need to qualify if its the remote or receiver in the main air con unit. An easy way to check the remote is aim it at a video cam or even a mobile phone camera and press the buttons on the remote. You should 'see' the infrared diode or front of the remote light up. Not like a torch, more just a change of colour. If it does, the remote is likely to be OK. If not I'd go with musty's idea and find a electronics repair guy. Least the weather is being kind at the moment. Cheers Bill

Trying to find someone with a Lamiglas XSH 156 3L to get a feel for the blank. Sydney would be good, but will travel. Anyone???? Cheers Bill __________________

I have a 1 pair of brand 'new never looked through' lenses to suit the following model sunnies. Displaced by prescription lenses. Bolle Bounce 10324 Mako Kick 9502 PM me if you want them or 0414 910573. Cheers Bill

1/16 jighead and a 3" bass minnow in 6' of water near a bridge pylon 1/16 jighead and a 1" nymph in 40' of water near a bridge pylon I think it's more important to find the fish and drop a lure on their nose than find the 'magic' lure. Cheers Bill

Hi Phil I know you preferred to remove the transducer, but how about mounting it as a shoot through hull set up in an inconspicuous place. It could then be a permanent fixture as trying to remove it would damage the transducer, rendering it useless to any thief. Saves fitting and removing every trip too Cheers Bill

Dependant on work commitments ,count me in on a carp cull endorsed by the relevant authorities . Top marks to the organisers if it goes ahead. Cheers Bill

Jinormous even . Yep it was a biggun, the fish were going nuts with three or four shouldering each other out of the way to reach the lure first. Joe, I tried a few and came up with ice- black ice and alewife. A color called blue mackerel (?) proved the dud of the day. Cheers Bill

Well they have definitely arrived. I could have walked from Sydney's North Head to Quarantine on the backs of salmon They are top fun on medium spin gear and certainly a welcome sight after too long an absence. Still suckers for 6" SlugGo stick baits though most of the other boats seemed to be sticking to metals or flies. One dumb nuts trolled through the center of the school, but I suppose you have to expect that . The photo's below were hurriedly taken between fish but will give a good idea of the size of the school. Cheers Bill

Hooley dooley we might be related. My daughters names are canihavea and canwehavea .

Weiry There can be a problem mounting the sounder tranducers off the MinnKota armature body and a similar problem if you run the sounder off the same batteries as the Kota. The end result can be minor interference across the sounder screen when the Kota is powered up and at its worst, sounders with a permanent burnt scroll lines across the screen. The fixes are; (Heavy interference, the screen blacks out leading to a fried screen) Run the sounder from a different battery from the MinnKota. (Interference across the screen when the Kota is activated) Connect the earth terminal of the batteries powering the sounder and the earth terminal of the batteries powering the MinnKota together with a 3 to 5 amp inline fuse. Cheers Bill