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About wrxhoon1

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  1. I don't know if you have cable or hydraulic brakes but by the look of your pads they weren't doing much stopping. If you want the brakes to work change the rotors to stainless steel, S/S calipers and S/S backing plates on the pads. Not cheap but way cheaper in the long run. The rotors don't rust so they don't rip your pads off. I first used S/S brakes around early to mid 90's , never looked back, every trailer I get I install all S/S .
  2. She won't do it because she won't have anyone to fillet the fish!
  3. I use it when I'm up there, like most people do. $2 mil should fix it as they are going to lift the ramp that should reduce the amount of sand you get on low tide plus it will be a lot steeper, won't need to put the tow tug in the drink. I wish they included a floating pontoon, on low tide that jetty is way too high .
  4. This should fix the sand issue but nothing to address the westerly wind. No mention of a much needed pontoon either . https://www.portstephensexaminer.com.au/story/6861631/2m-for-new-longer-boat-ramp/
  5. Most boat manufacturers supply the hull to the dealers and they fit them out, most will include steering but not much else. Some will supply a complete boat turn key ready as they either own or have contracts with engine manufacturers. I don't have a problem with that as long as the fitting dealer is reputable . You get to choose the engine manufacturer. You haven't specified if you are trailering or wet berth. If you intend to trailer you have to exclude a few makes unless you want to get involved with wide loads ( very restrictive) or do what a lot of people do, tow illegally. I'm just
  6. I don't know how well they are built or how they handle but generally speaking I'm not a fan of boats made in China ( personal opinion) but again check them out , they may suit you.
  7. The last 2 the year . If you have the HIN you can find the answers to your questions.
  8. Odd number pitch is more common than even for some reason. If you are looking to buy new you can get anything you want. It is up to you if you want to buy ally prop, I wouldn't but I have a big V6 engine. The reason your mechanic suggested one" pitch bigger for ally is because ally tends to distort under load, S/S is much stronger. That's not to say ally won't do the job but S/S will do it better. Don't forget it is a bit of guesswork on the pitch that will suit your application best. A lot will depend on boat load and where the boat is used . Ideally you want a prop that will allow the
  9. Pigs may fly too. If that was true nobody in marine environment would use S/S.
  10. Very simple if you think mild steel is more suitable on your application, go ahead and use it. In my application I find marine grade S/S more suitable than anything else for all my fasteners on boat and trailer. I think you will agree ( maybe not) that the fact that all reputable boat manufactures use S/S, at much greater expense to mild/gal steel, know it is much more suitable . So are you saying you object boat manufacturers using S/S cleats or anything else that you may tie the anchor rode on? What about the bow hook that you hook the winch hook on? Should that not be S/S, you put a
  11. Kingfishbig, Are you still going on about NOT using marine grade 316 S/S fittings and fasteners on boats used in saltwater? Are you trying to convince everyone on here that 316 S/S will corrode before mild or gal steel will? Of course anyone with boating experience is not going to take any notice. Any reputable boat manufacturer uses 316 marine grade S/S . I don't know what kind of boat you have, where you use it and what kind of fittings she has. Are your rod holders fastened with mild steel bolts? Do you have mild steel bolts holding your engine on the transom? I owned m
  12. Are you sure you installed the impeller correct? Looking at the blades one of them ( the one at 7 o'clock in the pic) looks like is bent the wrong way. When you put the new one in make sure you bent them the opposite to the shaft rotation . You can check at home if she overheats, all you do is run it in a drum, saves launching just to check overheating.
  13. Are you saying that marine grade S/S will corrode before mild or gal steel will? Visual signs of corrosion? How hard is it to see the brown rust? You can use whatever you like on your boat, if you think mild steel is the go, your choice. If you need strength you should use high tensile fasteners. I know what to use on mine, I haven't had a marine grade S/S fastener fail due to corrosion in all my boating life, i don't think it happen now as I'm never going to use Chinese S/S, now I can guarantee that will rust in no time. Maybe that is what you are referring ? I even use S/S acorn
  14. I use marine grade stainless steel fasteners on my boat and trailer . Are they stronger than mild or high tensile steel? No they are not but I can use heavier gauge to get the same strength if I wish. I even use S/S D-shackles because they will outlast gal and they will not seize, I even use a snap hook on my reef anchor, the prongs will bend long before the 12 mm snap will, even the 14mm rope will break before the snap breaks. How much load do you think you can put on the rope before the bow of a small tiny will go under? No where near enough to break a S/S D shackle, snap hook or quick link
  15. It is very simple after you claim your rebate it ends up costing you same as a car. Prior to this rebate it would cost you same as a B-double. As for M5 you still get the full rebate minus GST if you travel Southwest of King Georges rd, nothing changes there . The new M8 that runs from King Georges rd to St Peters is a toll rd for everyone and same goes for M5 east . M5 east was originally designed to be a toll rd, that's the main reason it was only 2 lanes each way however due to the fact that has a couple swinging state seats Bob Car ( Premier at the time) made if free for a
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