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Braid & Roller Tips


Mik

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Hi all

Just received my new Tyrnos 30 reel (Drool) and backbone elite 15-24Kg rod. I did some research before buying these items as they are an expensive outlay, however now that I have them in my hand the price tag is the last thing on my mind. I can't wait to get into some fish on this setup.

My question is, there has been a slight stuff up with the rod order. I asked for fixed guides but received roller tip. I will be running 30-50lb braid on this reel & have heard that roller tips are not ideal for braid as there is a fear that the braid may get caught down the side of the roller & cause chaffing / freying & ultimatley SNAP!

What are your thoughts on this?

Dealer is happy to exchange but I don't wanna let go now that I have them (Something about "Death Grip" was mentioned more than once) but hey, if the general feelings are I'm better with fixed guides then I guess I will exchange them, after all as I said I have outlaid a fair amount of cash on these babies so I don't want an inferior setup.

What do ya's think?

Oh, I also collected my Spheros 8000 & the 7' Tcurve King Mack spin rod, oh my god they are delicious! - Sorry, so excited! :tease:

Oh, while I'm here, any suggestions as to what I should put on for backing on these reels & how much?

Edited by Boofhead
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hi boofhead! yeah i got an old silstar overhead setup, rod with rollertip and you gotta watch the tip

more than your lawn during an (normal) oz summer with braid,..CRACK!.. and about backing if you want to

run straight braid, a good quality electrical tape. 3 winds around spool and she will bite like a frillneck!

otherwise a 1/4 to 1/3 quality mono backing same strength as braid with improved blood knot!

or your knot of choice!...IMO!..

..cheers!..stevo!..

PS. i prefer fixed guides. a little more elbow grease but way more flexable!

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Ok, ummm, two opinions so far. Anyone else wanna chip in here?

Thanks IFS & Stevo.

Stevo, is there a fairly large gap at the side of the roller on the Silstar? I checked the backbone & there's really not much gap to get any line caught in, I guess it may depend on how much roll gets into the rod during a fight & also the age of the rod huh?

I haven't taken any tags or labels off the rod yet just in case I wanna send it back.

By the way, if it helps, I will probably use this setup for trolling more than anything, possible jigg or two if I feel the urge.

I hear ya on the electrical tape, sounds the easiest.

Edited by Boofhead
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Boofhead,

line going down the side of rollers mostly occurs during trolling and when jigging with an erratic action. when trolling, if the line is not running straight back from the roller tip, due to rod holders pointing out and back at an angle, the line can easily pull into any gap, big or small, and from there its all bad news.

mostly you won't know it has happened until you strike when hookep up. then it is usually too late to get it out under the load of a fish ripping line off at a rate.

in the least the line will rub on the roller frame under tension all day as you troll, instead of sitting in the roller cleanly. this creates a weak point in the line at a place not normally wound on until late in the fight, causing many failures put down to poor line quality as it didn't break at the knot.

i know this isn't really the answer to your post, but just be aware the vast number of boats with rod holders pointing out and back at an angle will not be good for roller tips.

from my own experience with both styles of tip, a well adjusted roller tip allows the line to run over what is at times, the tightest angle the line will see with minimal friction. as long as the line runs straight back, they feel like they do a great job of getting line on and off without the friction feel of a standard tip.

however, a standard tip with the new fangled eyelet material has an air of 'nothing can go wrong' about it.

back to basics when it counts is a good feel. even out of a compromised rod holder setup, a standard tip will be fine if not cracked or scratched.

either way, a quick check of the operation and condition is good policy. eyelets can crack or scratch and rollers should actually roll smoothly - not too tight or loose.

i like both but mostly for trolling i go roller and jigging/livebaiting i go standard.

hope this helps. regards - barker.

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Thanks Barker

I must admit I think I'm starting to lean towards exchanging them. Even with a "small" chance of the line getting caught I think it sounds fixed could be better. After all, I did originally ask for fixed because someone told be they were better on braid & I am a novice to big gear.

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KT

Yup, fixed guides would be fuji. Its a Shimano Backbone Elite. The one I have now (Even though its roller tip) has Fuji fixed guides except for the roller tip one.

Think I will exchange these today. Damn, that means I have to wait another 3 days before I get it all together. Oh well. Rather have something that will be the best option.

Thanks everyone for your replies. Info & feedback has been great.

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We use 50WLRS's as 80lb Reels filled with 800m of PRT Braid and topshotted with 200m of black magic Mono.

We've been using this set up for a while for our 80lb outfits and have had no issues thus far.

The join is made by plaiting a double in the braid and in the mono, and then allbrighted together and zapped with abit of soft super glue.

We know this is not ideal but have never had issues with the braid and the rollers. The tollerences of Aftco's seem much finer than no-name rollers. to get the angle correct to wedge the braid in there would be pretty tricky to do.

The only hard bit is trying to lay the braid back on the reel with your thumb under 18kg or so of pressure.

Chris

We've only caught a hand full of fish on these 80lb outfits (3-4 blues) but have had a trouble free run.

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We use 50WLRS's as 80lb Reels filled with 800m of PRT Braid and topshotted with 200m of black magic Mono.

We've been using this set up for a while for our 80lb outfits and have had no issues thus far.

The join is made by plaiting a double in the braid and in the mono, and then allbrighted together and zapped with abit of soft super glue.

We know this is not ideal but have never had issues with the braid and the rollers. The tollerences of Aftco's seem much finer than no-name rollers. to get the angle correct to wedge the braid in there would be pretty tricky to do.

The only hard bit is trying to lay the braid back on the reel with your thumb under 18kg or so of pressure.

Chris

We've only caught a hand full of fish on these 80lb outfits (3-4 blues) but have had a trouble free run.

Hi Chris..

i read with interest in regards to the 50's spooled with braid and top shotted with mono has i have been debating the idea for yonks now......we ourselves utilizise two fifty's for our stand up 37's

and have gone down to the spool on more than enough occasion's now to become concerned i'm not

sure how much 37kg mono pack's onto the spool....but whatever that amount may be it's not much

weve adopted the attitude of late "if we cant stop it by the time it get's to the end of the spool it can have it"...

but in all honesty its the wrong approach.... my stumbling block has allways been that connection point

both for the fact of it letting go and been a weak point... and also concern when in getting to that stage in the fight were the knot

is just going in and out the rollers of the rod in a stalemate situation at a time when the fish is not giving much away....

but by the sounds of things my concern is unwarranted as all seems to be going good for you and it seems a lot more game fisho's of late are adopting that method...

is there any other advise that you can offer or pittfall's you have come across you can share

for i have little doubt that i would of have ordered the braid and it will be well on it's way to me before you even of have had a chance to respond back to me.....

Cheers Warnie.....

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Warnie,

Being confident in your knots is the biggest factor.

We take alot of time to prepare the double on both the braid, and on the mono and make sure the improved allbright is perfect and neat as well as super tight. I use a softer super glue that doesnt become brittle as well.

Having a neat knot allows a very smooth transition through the rollers (though we do use 37kg T-Curves with the larger afco rollers) but regardless, we try not to spend too much time with that connection going in and out of the rollers, we do prefer to try and stay in contact with the mono when ever we can.

You also cant waste time clearing a deck and teasers and other rods when a better than average fish jumps on. Some one grab the rod and the driver has to get on the throttle and chase down the fishquick smart. Every metre of line you dont lose is line you dont need to get back. you may tangle up some rods, you may bump the teaser with the boat but only losing 150m to a fish instead of 400m makes the world of difference.

On one of these outfits we've acctually opened up a 7691LGS 10/0. On a double hook up of blues, we were fighting a larger fish on one rod and left the 37kg in the rodholder with the drag sunsetted. After release of the other fish we realised the line had gone limp, and assumed the fish had popped the braid to mono connection, where in fact we opened up the hook.

The only downside that really hurts is trying to lay braid with your thumb under big pressure. the cuts are worth it though.

Cheers

Chris

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Yea..Chris

you've made me make my mind up...... i will start off with one outfit first

and trial it and see how it goes for the season...

guess we will be swapping thumb stories.....by end of season...

soft super glue ?????? is that actually what its sold under or are you refering to a product similar in to... knot sense,...plattibond etc....

Cheers Warnie..

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Boofhead,

I have recently been through much of this with updating reels. I have loaded a Penn 30vsx with 80lb braid with a top shot of 50lb mono. I have 750 yds on the spool (braid and mono). If as you say you will be trolling, you will need the stretch of the mono when a fish strikes and hook-up occurs. The braid is awesomely strong but has zero stretch. As for the roller tip, you need to take care with material such as braid and dacron on roller tips as the smaller line diameter can jam. I recently witnessed the loss of a good blue marlin on dacron when the rod tip was lifted too high allowing the dacron to jam and then PING with a few choice expletives. The equipment was top shelf, kilwell rod/tiagra reel. I use the uni-knot to join the briad/mono - no problems.

Cheers,

Rabs.

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