Croydon Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 (edited) G'day folks, Got a technical question relating to wiring up my down rigger. As will become obvious, this is something I know little (ie. nothing) about! So to make things a little easier I've added pictures. I have an old Cannon Digitrol IV electric down rigger, which I intend on installing in my 560c Barcrusher. I've sorted out positioning and the like but not too sure on how to wire it up. The boat runs a twin battery system, to a red multi switch. The wiring loom is at the rear of the helm, and provides power for all the boats usual electronics. What is the best way to earth the down rigger and where should I pick up power from? Should I run an in line fuse between the power source and rigger? I've heard about 'copper coated wire' (I think that's right) which is more suited to the marine environment. What size should I use and where do you purchase it? Should I bite the bullet and pay someone to install it for me? The last set of driving lights I wired up in my car lasted 7 years, but you guessed it, the wire wore through shorted and created some overtime for the local fire brigade!! This, I don't want in my boat, firies don't swim too well..... Any help you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks.......... Dave Edited February 11, 2008 by Croydon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inhlanzi Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Mate the best advice is to get a marine sparky to do it for you. Cop the cost and get it done right the first time! As you say a fire at sea is not good... cheers inhlanzi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BalmainBob Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Gday Mate I wired my downriggers on my 530c directly off one of the duel batteries. I put a switch on the positive lead so that when they are not in use I can turn the power off. I also put an inline fuse on the positve lead as well. The negative cable I conected directly to the negative terminal Hope this helps Cheers Balmain Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croydon Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Thanks guys, the info and advice is most welcome and appreciated........ Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWANNABROCK Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 (edited) It doesn't look hard from picture's, one wire on negative battery terminal, one wire on positive, run an inline fuse and switch on positive side. you will have to work out fuse size depending on amp's the rigger draw's. it looks like your earth's all run from bar in last picture and your power from the picture above it were the red wire's are. Edited February 10, 2008 by IWANNAJEWY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkie Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 (edited) G'day folks, Got a technical question relating to wiring up my down rigger. As will become obvious, this is something I know little (ie. nothing) about! So to make things a little easier I've added pictures. I have an old Cannon Digitrol IV electric down rigger, which I intend on installing in my 560c Barcrusher. I've sorted out positioning and the like but not too sure on how to wire it up. The boat runs a twin battery system, to a red multi switch. The wiring loom is at the rear of the helm, and provides power for all the boats usual electronics. What is the best way to earth the down rigger and where should I pick up power from? Should I run an in line fuse between the power source and rigger? I've heard about 'copper coated wire' (I think that's right) which is more suited to the marine environment. What size should I use and where do you purchase it? Should I bite the bullet and pay someone to install it for me? The last set of driving lights I wired up in my car lasted 7 years, but you guessed it, the wire wore through shorted and created some overtime for the local fire brigade!! This, I don't want in my boat, firies don't swim too well..... Any help you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks.......... Dave Good day Dave Im Burkie.1st thing you need too do is first check does the down rigger work. check before wireing. 2nd find the position where you want the downrigger located. Anything you wire needs to have its own fuse. Around 15amp fuse should do the trick. Yes copper wireing is the go for wireng. After you have worked out where you want it too go check measure check and measure agian . Check and measure 3 times iff needed. Run a full length off wireing from electrical houseing. You need too think about where you want the switch for on and off. The switch should be located in an easy postion. If your not entirly sure on how electric Cuircults work Please by all means seek a professional to install it may be worth your life. Basic power Red is power black is earth Not too be crossed. Ps please dont do any wireing with power on this way the (red Hot wire) does not touch any part Boat it called spark. Dave bias boating as everything you need too wire it up Good luck. In ending i hope this info helps you Edited February 10, 2008 by Burkie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flightmanager Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 That appears to be a pretty substantial winch motor , make sure you use the correct sized conductors , or you could get a meltdown or fire. Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolan Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 This may sound weird, but I can send pics. I have a setup that has power permanently set up at the rear of the boat using BRASS air line couplings.I just plug them in when using my winch. The fixed ones run straight off the battery and are countersunk in timber.They are a great connector device-better than those pissy crimps, and will take any load required. just solder the wire into the airline socket and you are off and running.You can run a fuse off either side too. The "airline socket" powerline system can also be used for bait tanks, searchlights,fridges etc Quick release and doesnt corrode!(whoops,spelling-hic!) Cheers, Stumpy- for all your technical advise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croydon Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Thanks folks, All the help above is fantastic. Once again this site comes through for anyone in need of good advice. I did a bit of searching the net and got onto the Cannon site which listed their owner manuals. Their directions for wiring are as stated above. The specs were interesting though. They recommend the use of a 30Amp, 32 volt waterproof fast blow fuse or circuit breaker on the positive and if running 0 - 15ft of wire, 10 gauge. The manual also has a 'blowback cart' giving estimates of your actual trolling depth dependant upon rigger weight, trolling and current speed. It makes interesting reading and if anyone wants the details let me know, I'll scan the chart and attach it. Once again thanks for the help it's much needed........ Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croydon Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 Folks, After all the good advice from everyone above and a bit of searching on the net, I was happy enough to go ahead and put the rigger in. I tested the rigger befor installing and found it to be in top working order. Installed upper and lower aluminium backing plates, for the mounting bracket to sit on. All drill holes and plates we're repainted and sealed with marine grade silicone. I ran 6mm tinned and insulated wire from the battery terminals to the rigger wiring, with an in-line 30amp fuse on the positive. All connections were joined with heat seal connectors and wrapped in electrical tape. When not in use the rigger is removed and terminals covered by a factory supplied/fitted rubber gromet. This should prevent terminals shorting out on the hull. The cables were tied back and placed out of harms way and then turned on. Surprise, surprise she worked!! Now for the test run tomorrow. The South Durras kingy population better watch out. Hope to post some pics of rigger in action tomorrow. Thanks again to everyone for their advice, it's much appreciated........ Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussie big bob Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Mate the best advice is to get a marine sparky to do it for you. Cop the cost and get it done right the first time! As you say a fire at sea is not good... cheers inhlanzi should take inhlanzi advice. I have 2 mag20 and at max load just one of these alone will pull 40amps. so a sparky would be the best person to see. cheers bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croydon Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 should take inhlanzi advice. I have 2 mag20 and at max load just one of these alone will pull 40amps. so a sparky would be the best person to see. cheers bob Hi Bob, Thanks for that, but I decided to give it a go myself, after the tips above, a bit of reading and some research on line. After getting onto the Cannon website I found that the rigger draws 25 amps at full load. Hopefully the way I've gone about things all should be OK. Much appreciated.... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impulse Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 The only comment i will make is give all your wiring a spray with Lanox (Inox with added lanolin). Lanolin (fatty secretion from sheep) is a natural rust/water inhibitor, and will stop corrosion in the connectors and wiring. Give the wiring/battery a good spray on a regular basis and it will look like new for years. You can also spray any metal surface for added rust protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croydon Posted February 15, 2008 Author Share Posted February 15, 2008 The only comment i will make is give all your wiring a spray with Lanox (Inox with added lanolin). Lanolin (fatty secretion from sheep) is a natural rust/water inhibitor, and will stop corrosion in the connectors and wiring. Give the wiring/battery a good spray on a regular basis and it will look like new for years. You can also spray any metal surface for added rust protection. Thanks mate, I've always got a can of the stuff in the boat, it's a great product. Much appreciated..... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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