Removing A Seized Propeller

[Kiwi Dan]

Hello all,

Now that Chrisg has helped me out on whether or not its hard to change my prop I have a 2nd issue.

I just remembered that the last mechanic who serviced my engine said that the prop was seized. He said it everything was okay at that time but whenever the propeller needed to be taken off it would take a bit of work.

So............ my question is - Does anyone know how to remove a seized prop? It being the holiday period I dont want to waste a lot of money with mechanics etc if its something I can do myself.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[IWANNABROCK]

Use a block of timber,hit back of prop with timber and hammer,keep working around until it comes off.

spray a bit of wd40 or equivalent should come off.

[Guest Aussie007]

try and use a 3 way pully from super cheap for pulling car engine pully's off i wouldnt hit the prop off u could do damage to the shaft and seals

[micksfishn]

oxie

[Kiwi Dan]

Ive sprayed it up with a bit of WD40 for the night ill give it another crack tomorrow.

Once I remove the pin and nut should it normally just slide off?

[IWANNABROCK]

Ive sprayed it up with a bit of WD40 for the night ill give it another crack tomorrow.

Once I remove the pin and nut should it normally just slide off?

They normal just need a wiggle and a jiggle and they will pop of. there is not normally anywhere on a prop to use a puller as suggested by Gazza. giving a couple of love taps with timber and hammer shouldnt hurt.

[LittleNoah]

If you can get a puller on there that would be my preferred option as its a much more even force rather than hitting it in 1 spot.

[Guest Aussie007]

They normal just need a wiggle and a jiggle and they will pop of. there is not normally anywhere on a prop to use a puller as suggested by Gazza. giving a couple of love taps with timber and hammer shouldnt hurt.

3 arm pully's extend there arms out it will grab the outside of each fin and the centre bolt will push on the shaft while pulling the prop

oxie

yikes!

[domza]

My props also stuck on my motor..we just gave up until it actually needs replacing..

tried a pulley, hammer, wd40 etc..nothing worked

I think when it comes time when i really need to change the prop the angle grinder will be coming out..i don't believe there is another way..

[brickman]

no no angle grinders are for boilermakers the only one's capable off handling there distructive power to cut through anything and try to bight you at the same time

there is this stuff we use at work the forman keeps it up in his office because it is about $90.00 a spray can

makes wd40 look like a joke i just can't remember it's name we spray it on seazed shafts and leave it over night and let the nitric acid go to work[eats only the rust and oxides not the parent metals]

i'll be back at work on the 12 if you lads can wait that long i think we get it from cbc or skf not to shore

the nine inch should be the last option and will be a bitch to do and not mark the shaft but can be done

sound like one for huewy cherrs gary

[pelican]

Brake fluid is about 100 times better than wd40 for seized parts with fine tollerances as it bleeds into the joint further I find but it does lift many types of paint.

Dan - the only safe way is a puller as everything else (like too much heat or belting it) will stuff your prop or possibly gearbox shafts seals and bearings.

will PM you a phone number and give me a call if the boat is around North Sydney as I will be in Neutral bay (80% chance ) this arvo and have various pullers blocks ( hammers and heat just so a boiler maker doesn't feel left out and wants flames and noise) that should be of help and an engineer , prop builder at kiribilli ( if he is open) who can tig it up if it isn't too bent so you are back together and can sort a new prop when you have time.

Pel

Update.

Well dropped in to see Dan in the sauna he calls a carpark where the boat is stored. Having little faith in most mechanics who say something is siezed it generally means they couldn't be bothered or didn't have the right tools or just had no idea. So an apology to Dan's mechanic - it was seized real good- like 10 years plus if ever since it has been off and the wrong greaese if any. His mechanic was also right that the prop was well worn even before Dan did the remodelling of the 2 inches off the tip and a bent blade.

Seized was understatement and normally the boilermaker approach would never get done by me but after a quick go with a lightweight puller ( that would be a couple of ton of pressure) I stopped before damage to prop or puller. Bit of fire on a stick was added and a few other tricks that we keep secret from boilermakers but no luck. Big puller was pulled out and since Dans prop was 90% stuffed anyway so it was given some serious serious grunt and again the fire stick was introduced.

Well to prevent any possible damage and since the prop was well stuffed to start with I resulted to boilermaker tactics and collectied a cordless the angle grinder as a carpark with hundreds of lights and airconditioners was devoid of any powerpoints!!. Cut the prop down through the bush to a mosquitos wanger away from the spline in 2 places and spread the outer spline with a specialised cold chisel ( I mean screwdriver) Could have done with another battery to do a 4th cut but?? Even with it split in 2 places we still needed the puller to screw it off as the splines had welded themselves on with corrosion. There had been no penetration of the penetrating oil due to the solid corrosion all the way down the spline. The shaft after a clean with wire brush to get teh worst of it off , fine but the splines on the split prop hub were just swolen corroded ally oxide with solid balls of hard ally.

So Dan is now looking for a new prop ( 13 spline for 40hp mariner 80's vintage possibly 12- 15 pitch guess (no numbers on it due to corrosion) anyone got a spare) and will not believe the performance difference I'd reckon and now knows how to pull a prop and grease it every season. Surprisingly I didn't see andy fishing line around the seals.

So a warning to everyone , spend 10 minutes and pull your prop off, clean the splines and only put it back on with the correct grease and do twice every year and it will save a lot of hassle

Hi Gary - there is this stuff we use at work the forman keeps it up in his office because it is about $90.00 a spray can

makes wd40 look like a joke i just can't remember it's name we spray it on seazed shafts and leave it over night and let the nitric acid go to work[eats only the rust and oxides not the parent metals]

Sometimes a light acid like vinegar , phosphoric will eat enough ally oxidisation so you can get some lubrication in there Can leave a horrible slurry that can be corrosive if you don't get em apart. Might be worh the $90 a can - ouch but cheap the day it does one job. He only keeps it up there to stop it being used hazing the apprencices by mistake

Edited December 30, 2008 by pelican

[Juggs]

its all part of servicing

pull the prop off 3 times a year, clean up regrease spline put spacers nuts and a new pin an doff you go.

should be doing it anyway to check line round seals etc, litterally takes 5 mins.

i do it when i do my wheel bearings as they get repacked 3 times a year

[stevefish]

which grease??

same as wheel bearings??

[pelican]

which grease??

same as wheel bearings??

I use the old OMC triple guard one ( BRP have probably relabled it) and check props at least a couple of times a year and have never had an issue. Have pulled a few off formates who do it annually and the grease they are using goes solid black and like glue after it has been in the salt water. The OMC one seems neutral and doesn't react between the metals and seems to resist salt water better.Bit subjective as we check regularly so are probably could use crap grease and get away with it. Wheel bearing greases - better than nothing but not designed for it but some are quite reactive with some metals like ally and brass and seen to go solid ormaybe it is that they aren't as water resistant. For the few bucks I know mine works so never looked as much into others but Merc would have agood one as well no doubt.

[brickman]

are you shore you not a boilermaker pelican maybe the son off one or in a previus life maybe

well you tryed all the options and resorted to the total destruction method funny how it is usuly the 3 option

would not be a very nice job and with a cordless grinder that would be a pain in the ass hats off boys you saw you tryed and in the end you had a good outcome

well done pelican for going above and beond what most people would do to help some one

true raider spirit cherrs gary

[Kiwi Dan]

MASSIVE THANKS TO PELICAN

Mike thanks again for coming out yesterday not once but twice, it is truly appreciated. You'll have to let me courier/drop off a case of beer or bottle of something to you, its the least I could do.

I could tell Mike was devastated at the fact he was going to have to get the angle grinder on it. He did try 3 or 4 other tricks he had up his sleeve, but, it was stuck solid. For those that don’t know Mike and I we are not small blokes and we were putting a few ton of pressure into the pullers but it wouldn’t budge a bit.

Thanks also to everyone else who PM and replied with input on removing the prop.

Now im on the hunt for a new or used one to get myself back on the water!!

Thanks again all.

[jewgaffer]

MASSIVE THANKS TO PELICAN

......Now im on the hunt for a new or used one to get myself back on the water!!

Thanks again all.

Full marks to Pel in my opinion that big bloke is ten foot tall by nature and ought to be be knighted for his help and advice to Fishraider members.

Dan If you have any trouble getting hold of a good second hand prop and want to save some hard earned money on an expensive factory prop, have a talk to Huey about the generic Turning Point propellors he stocks. I put one on a boat of mine and saved over a hundred and fifty dollars and although the pitch was the equivalent of my original Merc prop, the boat never performed better, and just so much smoother. I was so pleased that I put up a post about how good Huey's Turning Point Props are. Highly recommended Dan. Grab some prop grease as well mate.

Good luck and have a Happy New Year Kiwi

Cheers

jewgaffer

[hot_rolls]

WOW, isn't that great. i originally enjoyed reading and receiving tips/advice as well as reports from this site, also the social days arranged by Admin. but now hearing to what length Pelican went thru to help a fellow raider just goes to show what a top site this is.

great work Pelican. cheers

[pelican]

I tell ya I am so pissed off you wouldn't believe me, I hate it when a simple job goes bad and to think I might have lost the Knack. Nooooooooo.............

As you would understand Gary it is always a classic to easily do with the right tools in 2 minutes what is near impossible without.

Showed up with all the right gear and purposely put a corded angle grinder deep in the back of the tools as I had no expectation of using them. Took it in case I needed to notch a puller arm or such. Took the gas as a little never hurts and that and WD40 is always entertaining.

I seriously thought it was a 5 minute tap tap , lightweight puller , laugh at the other mechanic and still have a dodgy prop in one piece for Dan that he could tap out a couple of dings , and engineer mate could TIG it up just round the corner ( even took a old prop blade to scavange some metal from) shake hands and off I go, Dan is back on the water and can get a new prop whenever and keep it as a spare.

Bloody hell - for me to resort to a grinder or gas axe is usually reserved for 1940's tractors left for scrap in fields and I hate half jobs getting done. Worse than not starting them.

Was near embarassed when it didn't budge after a serious serious effort and then to find no powerpoints except runing it through the main reception - probably not office politically correct I went and borrowed a 18 volt lithium ion cordless 4 inch with superfine 1mil blades. They pull about 9000rpm and are only good for 5 minutes on each of the half charged batteries. As with all things cordless they die just as you need to make one last cut that joins the other 3 to undo the prop jigsaw - bugger - resort to lump hammer and tappety tap tap to spread the hub and still wouldn't come with 30% of spline removed. Drilled in new puller point as had cut one out ( DOH- didn't think I'd need it any more) and had to screw it off right till the last 10mm with teh puller as the ally spalled up.

Dan still has some cleaning up of the swarf and filings ( just hose them out) and to have a close look at the gearcase seal that no one has seen for 10 years. Not sure if there is an annode apart from the trim tab so look up the schematic and see as it will need doing if there is one on the gearcase carrier bearing at next service.

I now intend to attend councilling for having to resort to such tactics for fear there may be some boilermaker genes in me but the skin on my hand seems far too soft and I still have all my fingers - well sort of..

My diagnosis is here

http://www.flixxy.com/dilbert-the-knack.htm

Happy New Year

[brickman]

i work with 3 generations off enginers the oldest norm would have said 'YOU COULD BE OPENING A CAN OFF WORMS THERE SON' the son off norm would have said 'IT'S A WAFTAM and i would have said pandoras box but once you take on such a task i find talking to the job helps and also power tools

e.g.so you think your going to win bitch prop well let me show you my little friend mr 9 inch what your not worryed well would you like to see my hammer collection and there mates the cold chisel family

and power tools'; try and bite me you ##### let see who has the most grunt yes now you hurting serves you right

for anyone not in the know with boilermakers it can be a very boring job and we go a little funny inthe head from having to much time to think and trying to keep amused

love your work steve

[mrsswordfisherman]

Full marks to Pel in my opinion that big bloke is ten foot tall by nature and ought to be be knighted for his help and advice to Fishraider members.

Dan If you have any trouble getting hold of a good second hand prop and want to save some hard earned money on an expensive factory prop, have a talk to Huey about the generic Turning Point propellors he stocks. I put one on a boat of mine and saved over a hundred and fifty dollars and although the pitch was the equivalent of my original Merc prop, the boat never performed better, and just so much smoother. I was so pleased that I put up a post about how good Huey's Turning Point Props are. Highly recommended Dan. Grab some prop grease as well mate.

Good luck and have a Happy New Year Kiwi

Cheers

jewgaffer

Thanks Byron we have taken your suggestion into consideration and made some new Gold Members

Take a look HERE

Cheers mrswordfisherman

[glennmreid]

Well done Mike on helping a fellow raider. Great to see the raider spirit, like one big happy family