Replacing Trailer Axle - Help!

[Dezmo]

Hi All,

My 420 dory is sitting on an unbraked 2002 model TMC trailer. The trailer is in reasonable nick but the axle is pretty rusty and starting to flake. Not sure how thick it is, but its got to the stage where I would like to replace it.

I've not done this, the boat it at my parents place and I'm not really sure where to start...

- where would I get the axle from? (I'm in Randwick, the boat is in Eastwood)

- do you buy them with or without hubs? If buying without hubs is it difficult to fit the existing hubs?

- are there axles you can get that are galvanised or otherwise treated to be more rust proof or can I fish oil it or similar to preserve?

- hints or tips? PLEASE !!

- The u-bolts securing the axle are pretty rusty and might be easier to cut off rather than undo. Where is a good place to get these??

I was hoping to do it this weekend (before my life is consumed by house renovations for a while).

Greatly appreciated anybody who had done this or can refer me somewhere to source the axle.

Cheers

Ben

[pelican]

It will generally be solid so the surface rust is no big deal. Give it a bang with a hammer and the noise it makes will tel you if it is solid or hollow.

If you are enthusiastic wirebrush on a small angle grinder and then prime before painting will have it lasting years. Surface rust is not a reall issue even on the u-bolts ules sthere is real depth to it and the metal is losing a % of it's thickness.

If you wanted new ones look on the net and measure it up accurately as per the guides and get a gal one as there are some pretty standard sizes and check bearing type. Axel only or all the way hub to hub.Trailer and caravan spares people will be able to help and if you aren't confident they can fit pretty fast.

TMC would have them as a stock item and courier one to you?

Edited October 19, 2009 by pelican

[tuffy]

I'm with Pelican - give it a belt to determine if solid or not ( most are solid). Remove wheels and cut off U bolts with an angle grinder(fitted with appropriate disc). You may as well replace them at the same time as they are quite cheap any way. Slide axle and hubs out from between the springs and simply grind back with angle grinder with appropriate disc/brush, prime and paint with Cold Gal paint. It'll last another 10 years. Axle will sit on the springs with a small locator lug, so you can't stuff up when putting back together.

I'm at Putney so if you need a hand I'm happy to help.Just PM me.

Cheers, Tuffy.

[achjimmy]

i concur with pel and tuffy as well.

if it is 2002 it should be a solid axle. I would guess either 39mm round or 40mm square. Unlikely to be 45mm. A solid axle would take a long time to rust through.

39 & 40mm axles are holden bearings. The gal on gal axles is not stellar to start with. Remove your axle and follow there steps, after its reassembled spray some tectyl on it ($15 @ notsocheap autos) it will not rust a long as you recoat with tecttyl. Replace ubolts with proper gal ones (not zinc) and coat those as well replacing the bearings. If the hubs are rusty as well follow the same steps. replacement unbraked hubs are not that expensive considering they have the bearings fitted already. But keep in mind these hubs have cheap chinese bearings fitted and are average at best.

[Dezmo]

Thanks for all the replies guys and especially to tuffy for the generous offer of assistance!!

Its a round axle, for some reason I was pretty sure it was tube rather than being solid... As suggested, I'll give it a bash to work out whether its solid. If its solid, I can probably afford to leave it until after summer!!

[jtjt]

we've just replaced our bearings and axle on the boat trailer.

the cheapest place i've found is www.spinnythings.com.au but you have to pay for postage.

they quoted me $56 for a 39mm 60' round gal axle plus ~$15-$20 for shipping..

We were hanging for a fish and ended up paying $110 for the same sort. just to give you an idea on pricing.

i'm not sure if it is required but we're going to add a tack weld on the axle to the spacer (between the leaf suspension and axle) just for some insurance.