Pfleuger Trion Lp

[slinkymalinky]

Continuing the posts, here's today's workbench job. I've been using my Pfleuger baitcaster pretty hard lately and felt it was due for a bit more than an external clean and spray with Innox. Here's my once a year service on this reel.

I started by backing the screw out from the handle nut cap and removing it

Then the handle nut can be removed with a spanner

Removing the handle nut, you can then remove the handle and the spring washer beneath

then unscrew the drag star and remove the belleville and flat washers beneath, being careful to keep them in order and orientation. (stupidly I didn't include the washers in the photo... I'll correct that in the future)

I removed the cast control cap... it's not completely necessary but it takes tension off the spool shaft for when I remove the spool...

Next, I've removed the spool which is simply done on this reel by undoing the lock on the left side plate

removing the plate, and slipping out the spool. (unlocklable side plates like this are a great feature that allows you to adjust the centrifugal brakes or do basic maintenance) while fishing.

Baitcasters and overheads can be fiddly when it comes to the 'guts' of the reel and this one's no exception. Start by removing the internal screw that helps secure the right side plate (this can only be done after removing the spool and if you don't know it's there, you can spend a lot of time wondering why you can't get the side plate off)

The 2 external screws follow

and the right side plate just slips off

I wanted to swap out the original drag washer so the drive gear along with the drag washers was slipped off

A nifty replacement carbontex washer turned up courtesy of Smooth Drag. No one I've found produces drag upgrades for Pflueger reels but by providing measurements taken with a set of digital calipers, they managed to find a match for me...

You can see that as well as a superior material, the new washer has substantially more drag area

To install the new washer, first apply a coat of drag grease (Cals Drag Grease or Shimano Ace-2 Grease) to the inside of the drive gear.

A coat of drag grease is also applied to the carbontex drag washer

before being wiped off again with a cloth... (I need to get a different type of cloth as this one has a tendency to leave fluff behind)

Then the drag washers can be reinstalled... the prepared carbontex washer looks essentially clean but it has a coating of grease.

So that you can get at the rest of the reel, the drive gear and drag assembly can be removed from the drive shaft and put aside.

Next job is the clutch assembly (not related to the clutch bearing which is an 'anti reverse' bearing'). Be careful with this bit as there are a couple of 'jesus' springs (with apologies... not meant to offend but they are colloquially called that because that's what you'll say if they go flying off into the distance).

The disassembled clutch was put neatly on the towel with all the rest.

The final step in disassembling the main workings is to take apart the crank shaft and idler gear assembly...

... so that the crank shaft bearing can be accessed.

Previously in this service, I showed cleaning and relubing the bearings

But along with the carbontex drag a set of ceramic hybrid bearings also came from Smooth Drag. I've been wanting to try some out so this is my first swap. First, remove the right hand spool bearing... you'll need to remove the retaining pin first. The most practical method being to use an "Alan Tani" converted set of vice grips

Here's the new toys... this reel uses the same bearings as an ABU Revo. They arrived already oiled and since I've got some Xtreme Reel+ on order, I decided to install them as is. I'll clean out and relube them with the dry teflon lube when it arrives.

The left side plate bearing can be accessed by removing the retaining spring and the bearing can be swapped out

With the new bearings back in place all the 'gears and cogs' get the treatment with grease (in this case Shimano Permalub but I've since switched to using Evinrude outboard grease... Alan Tani uses Yamaha grease... but he has Yammies on his boat )

The clutch assembly can get a light coat of grease using a small brush (here I've been using Another nifty product called Rocket Fuel Liquid Grease)... this is mainly a 'protection coat'. Even small springs get a coating, which can be easily done by rolling them in grease smeared fingers.

Here you can see the reassembled clutch with a light coating of Liquid Grease

Finally, the mounting points for the worm shaft and the shaft itself, got a coating of oil.

After everything is cleaned, lubed and back in place, the right side plate can be replaced and then the drag star and handle assembly put back together. Remember that comment about getting the washers in order? Here you can see the belleville washers in a () configuration.

Before replacing the handle, give it a light smear of grease for corrosion protection.

And essentially you're done.

A final note on the ceramic bearings... before swapping bearings this reel had recently serviced stainless bearings lubed with TGs Rocket Fuel. With the cast control and centrifugal brakes backed right off, I got 20 second of run time when spinning the spool in free-spool.

With the ceramic hybrids installed out of the box, I'm now getting 35 seconds of free spool. That means more casting distance and an ability to cast lighter weights... as well as reduced casting effort reducing the likelihood of backlashes.

Cheers, Slinky

[wallacewt]

Continuing the posts, here's today's workbench job. I've been using my Pfleuger baitcaster pretty hard lately and felt it was due for a bit more than an external clean and spray with Innox. Here's my once a year service on this reel.

I started by backing the screw out from the handle nut cap and removing it

Then the handle nut can be removed with a spanner

Removing the handle nut, you can then remove the handle and the spring washer beneath

then unscrew the drag star and remove the belleville and flat washers beneath, being careful to keep them in order and orientation. (stupidly I didn't include the washers in the photo... I'll correct that in the future)

I removed the cast control cap... it's not completely necessary but it takes tension off the spool shaft for when I remove the spool...

Next, I've removed the spool which is simply done on this reel by undoing the lock on the left side plate

removing the plate, and slipping out the spool. (unlocklable side plates like this are a great feature that allows you to adjust the centrifugal brakes or do basic maintenance) while fishing.

Baitcasters and overheads can be fiddly when it comes to the 'guts' of the reel and this one's no exception. Start by removing the internal screw that helps secure the right side plate (this can only be done after removing the spool and if you don't know it's there, you can spend a lot of time wondering why you can't get the side plate off)

The 2 external screws follow

and the right side plate just slips off

I wanted to swap out the original drag washer so the drive gear along with the drag washers was slipped off

A nifty replacement carbontex washer turned up courtesy of Smooth Drag. No one I've found produces drag upgrades for Pflueger reels but by providing measurements taken with a set of digital calipers, they managed to find a match for me...

You can see that as well as a superior material, the new washer has substantially more drag area

To install the new washer, first apply a coat of drag grease (Cals Drag Grease or Shimano Ace-2 Grease) to the inside of the drive gear.

A coat of drag grease is also applied to the carbontex drag washer

before being wiped off again with a cloth... (I need to get a different type of cloth as this one has a tendency to leave fluff behind)

Then the drag washers can be reinstalled... the prepared carbontex washer looks essentially clean but it has a coating of grease.

So that you can get at the rest of the reel, the drive gear and drag assembly can be removed from the drive shaft and put aside.

Next job is the clutch assembly (not related to the clutch bearing which is an 'anti reverse' bearing'). Be careful with this bit as there are a couple of 'jesus' springs (with apologies... not meant to offend but they are colloquially called that because that's what you'll say if they go flying off into the distance).

The disassembled clutch was put neatly on the towel with all the rest.

The final step in disassembling the main workings is to take apart the crank shaft and idler gear assembly...

... so that the crank shaft bearing can be accessed.

Previously in this service, I showed cleaning and relubing the bearings

But along with the carbontex drag a set of ceramic hybrid bearings also came from Smooth Drag. I've been wanting to try some out so this is my first swap. First, remove the right hand spool bearing... you'll need to remove the retaining pin first. The most practical method being to use an "Alan Tani" converted set of vice grips

Here's the new toys... this reel uses the same bearings as an ABU Revo. They arrived already oiled and since I've got some Xtreme Reel+ on order, I decided to install them as is. I'll clean out and relube them with the dry teflon lube when it arrives.

The left side plate bearing can be accessed by removing the retaining spring and the bearing can be swapped out

With the new bearings back in place all the 'gears and cogs' get the treatment with grease (in this case Shimano Permalub but I've since switched to using Evinrude outboard grease... Alan Tani uses Yamaha grease... but he has Yammies on his boat )

The clutch assembly can get a light coat of grease using a small brush (here I've been using Another nifty product called Rocket Fuel Liquid Grease)... this is mainly a 'protection coat'. Even small springs get a coating, which can be easily done by rolling them in grease smeared fingers.

Here you can see the reassembled clutch with a light coating of Liquid Grease

Finally, the mounting points for the worm shaft and the shaft itself, got a coating of oil.

After everything is cleaned, lubed and back in place, the right side plate can be replaced and then the drag star and handle assembly put back together. Remember that comment about getting the washers in order? Here you can see the belleville washers in a () configuration.

Before replacing the handle, give it a light smear of grease for corrosion protection.

And essentially you're done.

A final note on the ceramic bearings... before swapping bearings this reel had recently serviced stainless bearings lubed with TGs Rocket Fuel. With the cast control and centrifugal brakes backed right off, I got 20 second of run time when spinning the spool in free-spool.

With the ceramic hybrids installed out of the box, I'm now getting 35 seconds of free spool. That means more casting distance and an ability to cast lighter weights... as well as reduced casting effort reducing the likelihood of backlashes.

Cheers, Slinky

im about to do mine,how much drag u gettin.cheers