Okuma V System Vs 200 Baitcaster

[slinkymalinky]

I got this reel 2nd hand from another Fishraider and it probably didn't need to be serviced... but I'm taking it with me to Monduran in a few weeks and I don't want it doing anything unexpected while I'm chasing a metre+ Barra. So it got the treatment.

Begin by unlocking the left side plate, which then swings clear allowing the removal of the spool.

To get at the spool bearing, the retaining pin in the shaft needs to be removed. I use one of Alan Tani's tricks and have a converted pair of vice grips with a notch cut using a Dremel motor tool, in the lower jaw. Close the vice grips on the pin and it will push through into the slot, from where it can be pulled out. It's a very tight fit in this reel.

I'd previously measured the bearings and ordered some upgraded Ceramic Lightning bearings from http://www.bocabearings.com/

The spool bearing is 5 x 11 x 4mm

I opened it up (not really necessary but I wanted to check it wasn't packed with grease) and lubricated with a drop of TG's Rocket Fuel oil. Then installed it back on the main shaft and replaced the retaining pin.

There's a bearing inside the left side plate that I also wanted to replace (3 x 10 x 4mm) so after removing the retaining spring and the old bearing, the new ceramic hybrid was cleaned (this one came packed with grease) lubed with oil and installed.

Now, you can move on to removing the handle and star drag assembly, beginning with popping off the handle nut cover. Be careful... this is just a plastic molded part and I broke one of the plastic locking tabs so now have to wait for a replacement.

Undo the handle nut... it's recessed inside the handle so a ring spanner or socket will make it easier.

Then remove the handle and washers (only 1 is shown on the schematic... there's 2 on this reel).

Undo the drag star and remove the drag clicker assembly and belleville washers

Next the right side plate comes off by backing out 3 screws... the obvious one

the less obvious one inside the spool cavity (this is pretty common with baitcasters)

and the downright obscure one which is actually a structural cross-member that is accessed from inside the left side plate

With the screws removed, the side plate slips off exposing the 'guts' of the reel.

While you've got the right side plate in hand, remove the cast control cap followed by the right sideplate bearing... after removing the retaining spring the bearing will just pop out with a gentle push from behind.

Clean up and lube the bearing and replace it (in this case, I swapped in another Ceramic Lightning bearing)

Continuing on, the clutch (anti-reverse) bearing will just push out from inside the side plate. The collar (clutch bearing bushing) often stays in the bearing when you remove the side plate... if not it will be on the drive shaft. Remove it. (and there might be a washer too if you, like me, didn't take it off with the bellevilles)

It's very important not to over lube clutch bearings!

After cleaning the clutch bearing and collar (I used white spirit), they need a VERY light coat of grease. Coat a cotton bud with light grease (I used drag grease), wipe off the excess just leaving the cotton bud 'damp' and gently run it round inside the clutch bearing (in the direction so that the pins turn) to leave just the lightest coat.

The collar gets a coat then can be wiped between your fingers until all that remains it is enough grease so that touching it will leave a fingerprint... then slip the collar into the bearing

Before putting the right side plate aside, clean the inside and give it a thin coat of grease. And press the clutch bearing back in place before moving onto the next stage.

Let's move onto servicing the drag. Lift the main drive gear and drag washers off the drive shaft, followed by the ratchet gear and ratchet washer... then disassemble the drag.

Coat the inside of the main gear with drag grease, then each of the carbon drag washers... I wipe off the excess with a clean cloth but it's not strictly necessary with a small baitcaster. Then reassemble the drag inside the drive gear and put it aside

Next it's time to remove drive shaft. First you'll need to unscrew the 2 screws holding the drive shaft assembly... next put aside the yoke springs so they don't go missing.

The pinion gear and yoke need to be lifted out.

Then the drive shaft assembly can be removed. There's a bearing beneath the drive shaft that may come out with it. Clean the bearing and pack it with grease (this bearing has nothing to do with the free spool so I didn't bother upgrading from the stock bearing).

The dimensions of the drive shaft bearing measured at 3 x 8 x 4mm

Now, the remainder of the clutch can be dismantled. Slip off the braked plate and clutch slider, being very careful not to lose the 2 springs from the clutch mechanism.

Next, remove the hold plate (it's only plastic so prize it out gently with a small screwdriver to avoid snapping anything off).

All the parts of the clutch assembly can get a good clean using white spirit.

And as a last stage before reassembly, let's get at the level-wind assembly beginning with the left side plate hinge pin. The hinge pin spring missing from this reel... it doesn't effect it in any way though so I won't bother replacing it.

The level-wind body cover can be removed after backing out the screw on each side... you don't need to do it to service the level-wind but it makes photographing for the tutorial easier.

Remove the hinge pin collar

Before moving on to the worm shaft... the first step being to remove the e-clip and nylon bushing on the left side

followed by unscrewing the line guide pawl cap and removing the pawl.

To remove the retaining pin from the right side of the worm shaft, you'll need to push it through from the left side which will make the shaft sit proud of the transmission gear so you can get at it.

With that out of the way, the transmission gear slips off the worm shaft. Then the shaft itself and shaft bearing can be slipped out.

Even this little bearing (4 x 7 x 2.5mm) got cleaned and packed with grease

And lastly for this bit... the worm shaft cover and line guide can be removed.

All those bits and bobs, along with the right side of the main frame, need a spring clean before we start to put it all back together. The right side of the main frame gets a thin coat of grease before reassembling the level-wind.

Add a drop of oil to the line guide pawl, the worm shaft and the left side bushing (makes you wonder why they bothered with a bearing on the other side)

Replace the left side hinge pin collar...

Reattach the level wind body cover

Give the hinge pin a thin film of grease between greasy fingers and replace it

Now reattach the left side plate to the hinge pin.

A bead of grease around the drive shaft bearing cup and the greased bearing can be replaced

To reassemble the clutch, you'll need to fiddle a bit to get the springs back in place. After replacing the hold plate, slip the braked plate into place making sure the thumb bar is in the 'up' position; and that the braked plate engages the metal clutch slider.

Position the braked plate spring... (note that my copy of the schematics show this spring incorrectly positioned!!). Then slip the longer spring arm into the hole in the braked plate... before engaging the smaller arm in the mounting hole in the main body... you may need a pair of needle nose pliers because it should now be under load.

The clutch slider spring is a little easier being finer wire. Pop it into its mounting hole on the main body

place the clutch slider roughly in position, installing the spring into the slider...

now, carefully lift up the side of the braked plate, allowing you to slip the clutch slider into place...

Replace the drive shaft assembly, giving the teeth of the transmission gears a coat of grease before you do.

Reinstall the pinion gear and yoke, making sure the pinion gear is lightly greased as well as the springs (which can be done with the good old greasy-fingers technique)

Slip the ratchet gear and washer onto the drive shaft (make sure the gear is the right way around)

Then give the teeth of the main drive gear a coat of grease and slip it along with the drag washers onto the drive shaft.

Now, the right side plate can be replaced (remember those 3 screws)

Replace the drag star and handle assembly, making sure the belleville washers are correctly configured. Stock configuration is ()()

Now my reel is ready for the big Monduran Barramundi that Jewhunter has promised me.

Cheers, Slinky

[alantani]

magnificent work!

[Jewhunter]

Awesome effort once again Slinky!

Mate, you have WAY too much time on your hands!!

You've put the pressure on me now for Monduran. I'd better get you a hookup!

Cheers,

Grant.