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Handy Hints


oz_brett

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HI Guys

Each and every one of us have a little some thing we do to make boating & fishing easier / boat, Trailer or fishing gear last longer or be more reliable. a Perfect example was ;

My fish finder that was very unclear when traveling even at trolling speed!

Problem was solved when I put some Sikaflex under the transducer bracket = the silicon absorbed the Vibration and all was good.

After hooking the trailer to car put a clip or lock in the handle so that it cant release THEY DO COME UNDONE I was lucky no Damage done.

Regularly spray all of your trailer with WD like spray to prevent corrosion.

Keep the Polish up to your boat more then you do your car. This prevents paint fading also protects against scratches when you rub against wharves & jetty's also makes it heaps easy to clean = end result goes in your pocket at resale time

Mr Sheen works a bit like Rain-X on your clears.

Mount Bilge Pumps using a dollop of Sikaflex instead of trying to find something to screw them too (also good for keeping wires in place)

What about you Im sure you have some thing to add or improve on mine.

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Regularly spray all of your trailer with WD like spray to prevent corrosion.

Make sure you don't use it around rubber bungs/elec cabling(casings) etc, as WD40 is ptroleum based and will eat through it over time.

Use a lanolin based product such as Inox or lanotec. Could become an expensive excersize with Inox though (around $10 a can). Best to buy in bulk - http://www.lanotec.com.au/?link=3

(and NEVER ever ever ever ever (x 209,879,876,547,835,676,572) used WD in a fishing reel - lanolin based products only!!! Inox is my fave. http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

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Serious? can you elaborate a bit???

When i first got my boat a few years ago now a mate put me onto it, i still use polish every 6 months or so but in between polishes say every second outing or so i use baby oil on the glass - it rejuvinates the paint, brings out a very high shine which seems to last for one outing or so. Not sure why or how it works but hey i'm sure someone else here's heard of it.

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Make sure you don't use it around rubber bungs/elec cabling(casings) etc, as WD40 is ptroleum based and will eat through it over time.

Use a lanolin based product such as Inox or lanotec. Could become an expensive excersize with Inox though (around $10 a can). Best to buy in bulk - http://www.lanotec.com.au/?link=3

(and NEVER ever ever ever ever (x 209,879,876,547,835,676,572) used WD in a fishing reel - lanolin based products only!!! Inox is my fave. http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm

I was trying not to use brand names incase the site has some issues with it but YES you are right about INOX I love the stuff only it gets a bit expansive so I use Lanotec aswell.

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make your own burley, left over bread (or yesterdays bread from the bakery) put through a meat mincer makes bread pallets then mix tuna oil through it.

I make it in advance and keep it in the freezer ready to go. can also add left overs from your last catch.

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People probably know this one, but for those that dont:

When filleting fish at home, keep the frames in the freezer till bin day or better yet, keep them there till next weekend and use them in your burley masher/bucket!

Fibreglass boats, or any boat for that matter, always undo the travelling strap and winch cable when the boat is stationary at home. Takes the stress off the hull.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got some more useful tips and info during the week that I thought I could share with you all,

WD40 can contribute to corrosion (or electrolysis) in aluminum for us who have alloy boats.

Add cup of Kerosene in hot soapy water helps with the shine also helps protect from electrolysis. also good for preventing rust in cars just give a good rinse when finished washing.

When ever you put 2 different metals together (eg; stainless screw in alloy) put "DURALAC" between them to avoid corrosion.

I'm sure every one knows to always use stainless steel sews bolts & washers, and Rivets should always be aluminum mandrel (center)

Apologies to guys with boats other then alloy Ive never owned one so cant advise on them!

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When you have put the boat away after a day out, make sure the motor is not tilted up. try to get it vertical (straight up and down) and keep it that way till you are ready to head out again. Dont leave your battery terminals connected, if you dont have an isolation switch at least take off the negative terminal to the battery. Will stop your electrics growing yucky powder goo which is caustic!. take out your bungs to let your hull dry out. Vacumn your carpet when its dry to keep it in good shape. keep your outboard out of the sun where possible, buy a cover for it, it will help keep the paint in good shape which will help at resale time. spray your cover with inox also, it wont hurt your paint and stops the salt drying out your seals. afterall would you buy a two year old motor that has paint like a chalkboard? finally, when you are retriving your boat on a windy day, hook a rope around the stern cleat facing the wind, you can then tug on the rope to help pull the boat while winching to keep it nice and straight...

thats all i can think of at the moment.

Cheers

Mick :thumbup:

Edited by bisso
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keeping moisture from your tackle!

I have just read a post by a raider by the name of Elvis...

When you buy new shoes keep the small sachel from the shoe box (also found with electrical items)put the sachels in with your lures & tackle to help protect from rusting.

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Keep your battery terminals clean it ensures a good connection so your battery will charge, just because it starts does not always mean it is getting a good connection to charge. When clean use plenty of marine grease to seal them from the salt or the battery acid that comes up the post causing corrusion.

Charge your batteries using a good multi stage charger to maintain a good deep charge and minimise sulphation. Anternators on boats are not that good and can really only charge one battery at a time.

Buy a 12v pie walker and enjoy a hot lunch on a cold day. You won't have an issue with the batteries as you maintain them.

Install a 2 battery system in your boat using a master switch and switch between them each trip. It will save you one day

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keeping moisture from your tackle!

I have just read a post by a raider by the name of Elvis...

When you buy new shoes keep the small sachel from the shoe box (also found with electrical items)put the sachels in with your lures & tackle to help protect from rusting.

Yes! great- thanks for that. will save me a lot of money from replacing rusted tackle (hopefully)

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Install a 2 battery system in your boat using a master switch and switch between them each trip. It will save you one day

Hi David (or anyone else that can advise for that matter)

I had a thought the other day and not sure if I set my 2 batteries up correct or not..I set my possatives to master switch not negative is this the correct way or should it be negative that changes and isolates?

Brett

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For the cold mornings to keep your hands warm while not fishing or steering your boat try OVEN MITS.

They keep the chill off the hand are very easy to put on and off and they give you plenty of movement.

I am not recommending them to fish in or chop up bait etc.

Dont forget to take an old ironing board in the car with you.Very handy in helping you clean fish. No sore back.

They can also be handy for LB as a work table. Again no sore back.

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Setting up basis manual master switch.

I prefer the basic Swich 1, both or 2 as they are trouble free. Don't get me wrong the advanced management systems are good but in the case of a trailer or small moored boat simple is easy of it's in a marina the needs change.

Simple set up

connect your motor positive to the common on the switch

connect one battery to one battery pole and the other battery to the other pole

as most motors won't charge 2 well batteries at the same time, use and charge one at a time and

alternate between batteries on each trip

you could also do it on the negative side but imost people use the positive side

remember to make good connections and solder crimps and grease all battery terminals

most important never mix up positive and negative and always make good connections or pay the price

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To the people with moored boats.

Put a standard hose fitting in on a tap after the raw water pump.

When you finish boating, attach the fresh water deck hose to the motor and flush the salt out and leave the fresh in there till the next time you go boating.

its great for heat exchanger as it keeps them clean.

But its really good for intercoolers. It doesent take much calsification to clog them and you loose alot of HP fom cloged intercoolers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

epirb owners

Ever wondered what you would do if some one turned on your epirb "then asked HEY whats this thing for"?

when I got mine I feared a child flicking the switch so I called AMSA to ask what to do. they replied with clall us (numbers below)

1800 641 792

02 6230 6811

To avoid being charged for the services provided when I dont need them Ive stuck these numbers to the EPIRB and on the wall behind the bracket with a dymo labeler so they are there when I need them.

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  • 9 months later...

Keep your battery terminals clean it ensures a good connection so your battery will charge, just because it starts does not always mean it is getting a good connection to charge. When clean use plenty of marine grease to seal them from the salt or the battery acid that comes up the post causing corrusion.

Charge your batteries using a good multi stage charger to maintain a good deep charge and minimise sulphation. Anternators on boats are not that good and can really only charge one battery at a time.

Buy a 12v pie walker and enjoy a hot lunch on a cold day. You won't have an issue with the batteries as you maintain them.

Install a 2 battery system in your boat using a master switch and switch between them each trip. It will save you one day

All great advice, but if you can't, won't or don't know how run the second battery you can also carry one of the portable battery jump packs, available at auto accessory stores.

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A couple of little things I do these days that have made my life alot easier;

Elastic bands - in sizes for livebaits, outriggers and for storing lure rolls

Small bucket to drop lures/jigheads/hooks etc into.. This is the bucket dedicated to being washed with fresh and sprayed with inox back on the dock.

Rolls of that non-skid matting ($8 bucks from bunnings) to create a baitstation anywhere on the boat. Knives dont cut through it and fish/baits dont slide on it.

Use tubs to transport gear - having two tubs that can fit inside each other means you have a spare to transport any fish/ice home.

A4 plastic insert sheets to store livebait traces

Cut pool noodles into segments to store large baitjigs/multihook rigs. Just wrap them around and secure with elastic bands.

have a chammy on board to wipe down alloy bars/consoles etc on cleanup.. they really bring out a nice shine after a spray of fresh.

there are a million more!!! haha

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[buy a 12v pie walker and enjoy a hot lunch on a cold day. You won't have an issue with the batteries as you maintain themquote name=David (AKA fisherdad)' timestamp='1273352227' post='356051]

A12V pie walker ???

Is that similiar to a dog walker ???

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I've found something as simple as brasso works great at removing those little rust stains on any stainless like rod holders and bowrails also gives a nice shine to aluminium, aswell as removing light scratches on perspect windscreens. works a treat for me

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've found something as simple as brasso works great at removing those little rust stains on any stainless like rod holders and bowrails also gives a nice shine to aluminium, aswell as removing light scratches on perspect windscreens. works a treat for me

What are you using on your paintwork, Radz?

Tuffy

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