ChrisS Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hey guys, Just wondering if anyones attempted to build there own boat trailer with success? I'm looking at bigger boats and some don't have a trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickb Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Chris, About 20 year ago, Dad and my self built our own boat and trailer. I bought a caravan that had wrecked but the chassis was ok,so we strengthened it up added rollers and bought a set of rockers for tandem,if you can weld it is a snack. Besides it saves a lot of money. We built the boat out of marine ply,then glassed it over. there is nothing better and more satisfying than building your own. I have only just up graded to a dunbier. Cheers Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Yeah mate I used to buil all types of trailers.. it is not that hard at all mate.. what do you need to know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 Yeah mate I used to buil all types of trailers.. it is not that hard at all mate.. what do you need to know? Cool guys Is there anything I should know or look out for? Do they have to be engineered? Or any hints would be great. I can weld but not that great so I would just get a mate to help, looking at other trailers it doesn't look that hard so I'm keen to give it a go. BTW I'm currently building this which I pretty much started from scratch so it has been good practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 6, 2010 Share Posted June 6, 2010 You dont need a engineered certificate, however.. when you are ready for rego you will need a weighbridge ticket, a blue slip and a compliance plate.. The plate can be obtained from a RTA office at a small charge.. about $25 I think they will also give you a VIN number to be stamped on the plate.. Sometimmes a caravan or trailer place can do all of this for you at a charge.. just check it all oout.. Try to keep the wieght down under 250kg's without the boat.. and you will never need a pickslip for rego again.. just pay the renewal every year with no inspection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 You dont need a engineered certificate, however.. when you are ready for rego you will need a weighbridge ticket, a blue slip and a compliance plate.. The plate can be obtained from a RTA office at a small charge.. about $25 I think they will also give you a VIN number to be stamped on the plate.. Sometimmes a caravan or trailer place can do all of this for you at a charge.. just check it all oout.. Try to keep the wieght down under 250kg's without the boat.. and you will never need a pickslip for rego again.. just pay the renewal every year with no inspection Sounds simple enough, thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twin08 Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Hi Chris I designed and built my own trailer to carry a 2t load to suit a cat that I had built. I did this firstly to get better quality, as well as drive on ability and to fit into my garage. I fitted I.R.S suspension for a smoother and safer ride, the galvanizing cost was more than the price of all the steel!. You need to work out the load of the BTM combination with fuel & supplies etc to ascertain the type of braking system, if needed, including the rim/tyre and axle type. All the design specification information for the body etc can be found at http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb1/vsb_01_b.aspx#11 You must keep all the receipts for the parts etc and take them with you to get a Blue Slip and the RTA will need to view them for registration. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemmm Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 I have absolutely no clue about this but I do have a tip. My old man made a trailer for his boat in 1976. Both the trailer and boat are now in the hands of a mate of mine. One of the reasons the trailer has lasted this long is that he made the bulk of it out of channel not square tube. This meant that salt water never stayed stuck in the trailer anywhere and a quick hose knocked it off completely. Whilst I gave it one or two coats of paint when it was in my possession the galvanising was as good as new. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 Had trouble loading the photo, Regards Wow nice job there mate, and thanks for the info. Can I galvanize the trailer myself? (have spray guns and compressor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemmm Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Can I galvanize the trailer myself? (have spray guns and compressor) Galvanizing is done by hot dipping steel into zinc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Had trouble loading the photo, Regards This is a great job mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 I have absolutely no clue about this but I do have a tip. My old man made a trailer for his boat in 1976. Both the trailer and boat are now in the hands of a mate of mine. One of the reasons the trailer has lasted this long is that he made the bulk of it out of channel not square tube. This meant that salt water never stayed stuck in the trailer anywhere and a quick hose knocked it off completely. Whilst I gave it one or two coats of paint when it was in my possession the galvanising was as good as new. Dave Yes I would agree. "C" channel is the way to go.. depending on the actual size of the trailer as you would need a slightly heavier gauge then square tubing.. but if you were to go over the 250kg mark anyway why not?If you were to make a boggie there is no question.. C channel and you will never have a rust problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twin08 Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Thanks everybody for the great feedback on the trailer. Chris when you make items for galvanizing in tubing you need to allow for vent holes etc for the air to escape and the gal to drain out. Without the vents the air heats up inside the tube and can burst the tube open! In the web links it has designing rules for galvanizing http://www.ingal.com.au/IGSM/12.htm#16 or http://www.ingal.com.au/faq.htm Just on insurance NRMA will only insure home made trailers to a maximum of $1000, I found Club Marine covered the total cost of the trailer. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thank's again guys, all the info has been a big help! If I do built one I will post a build thread up for sure. Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 19, 2010 Author Share Posted June 19, 2010 OK so today I'm picking up a 15' Fiberglass Hull minus a outboard and trailer (woo hoo) So I'm thinking the first thing I want to do is make a trailer for it so I have a few more questions. What size RHS would you use? Should I make it tilt? I'm thinking single axle with 14" Commodore wheels/tyres as I already have a pair with good tyres here but I also want to try and make it so the hull sits on the trailer fairly low to make it easier to launch and put make on the trailer. Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 OK so today I'm picking up a 15' Fiberglass Hull minus a outboard and trailer (woo hoo) So I'm thinking the first thing I want to do is make a trailer for it so I have a few more questions. What size RHS would you use? Should I make it tilt? I'm thinking single axle with 14" Commodore wheels/tyres as I already have a pair with good tyres here but I also want to try and make it so the hull sits on the trailer fairly low to make it easier to launch and put make on the trailer. Cheers Chris For your main rails I would use 100x50x3mm rhs, But I would realy look into C channel.. that way it will not hold any water and with a good coat of paint only needs a wash down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evets Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 OK so today I'm picking up a 15' Fiberglass Hull minus a outboard and trailer (woo hoo) So I'm thinking the first thing I want to do is make a trailer for it so I have a few more questions. What size RHS would you use? Should I make it tilt? I'm thinking single axle with 14" Commodore wheels/tyres as I already have a pair with good tyres here but I also want to try and make it so the hull sits on the trailer fairly low to make it easier to launch and put make on the trailer. Cheers Chris Chris, My trailer is made out of 50 x 75 x 2.0 mm RHS. Its under a 16 foot fibreglass seafarer but........ it originally came from under a 21 foot ski boat. Its super heavy duty for my boat. Evets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt snoopy Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Mate I recently built a trailer to go under my 15ft Yaltacraft. I used 100 x 50mm RHS all round. You could use 50 x 50mm for your cross braces and the boat would sit lower. Also I used pre galvanised steel that was not much more than plain steel. Dearest part were all the rollers. I used my old trailer as templet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnsie Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 mate im not 100% sure but ive been told if the trailer has brakes on it then it does need to have a engineers certificate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 Can get Gal RHS easily so I think I will go with that, then just coat the bits that get cleaned and welded. I called a local trailer place earlier this week to get a price on a axle, hubs and springs. He said if the boat and trailer weigh over 750kg the trailer will need brakes to be legal, now I have been looking and asking around and have not found one trailer carrying a similar or bigger (16' etc) that has brakes fitted. My brothers 17' Haines Hunter's trailer doesn't have brakes and that would be way heavier then my boat. Has the rules changed or is this guy full of it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evets Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) Nope not full of it BMT of 750 kg + needs brakes. RTA - Towng trailers things you need to know Evets Edited June 26, 2010 by Evets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Can get Gal RHS easily so I think I will go with that, then just coat the bits that get cleaned and welded. I called a local trailer place earlier this week to get a price on a axle, hubs and springs. He said if the boat and trailer weigh over 750kg the trailer will need brakes to be legal, now I have been looking and asking around and have not found one trailer carrying a similar or bigger (16' etc) that has brakes fitted. My brothers 17' Haines Hunter's trailer doesn't have brakes and that would be way heavier then my boat. Has the rules changed or is this guy full of it?? That guy is full of it.. When you build the trailer and go to get it registered, you will need a weighbridge ticket of the trailer WITH OUT the boat on it... and if the trailer is under 700kg you will not need brakes.. Also if the trailer is under 250kg you will not need a roadworthy every year... DO NOT GET THE BLUE SLIP AND WIEGHBRIDGE TICKET WITH THE BOAT ON THE TRAILER.... This is my boat with a 90hp mercury.. And with only the trailer it wieghs 210kg, so I dont need a boggie axle and I dont need brakes.. My boat is a 4.75m fiberglass and in total wieghsabout 1.3 ton... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarraone Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Nope not full of it BMT of 750 kg + needs brakes. RTA - Towng trailers things you need to know Evets I questioned the RTA over this when I modified my own trailer and what they said was because a boat trailer does not have a GVM. They go off the wieght of the trailer .. Maybe I was lucky? But when I was building trailer that is what we went off.. Box trailers are a little different.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twin08 Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Chris If someone rebuilds a vintage car that was not originally fitted with seat belts it passes the blue slip inspection as this is how it was built, I imagine old trailers would be the same. With building a new trailer you would need to follow the current design rules in every aspect to have it passed. You don’t require an engineer’s report as all it states in the design rules is "There are no specific body structural requirements, but the trailer must be safe and fit for purpose”. Just have a look at similar new trailer’s steel sizes and make yours the same or in a heaver gauge. If you have a problem at the blue slip inspection you can then give them something to compare with, if needed. If the BTM and supplies are over 750kg you need over-riding brakes fitted. For the money, it is very cheap insurance, plus it gives you a parking brake. With the obvious factor of stopping quicker, it could possibly save having an accident that could be as serious as a fatality, but let’s hope not! The authorities would inspect the vehicles, would find the trailer overloaded and being a possible contributing factor they would lay blame. Your insurance could possibly be voided for your car and boat etc, etc, etc. This is only my view. This web site information would assist in designing your trailer for the axles, hubs, bearings, springs etc as it has load ratings on the products http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology/product-catalogue/springs/australian-design-rules/ When I built my trailer, all of my receipts proved that my trailer parts can carry two ton for the compliance plate. All ties have speed ratings and max weight carrying labels. My ties are 510kg each x 4, giving over two ton load carrying capacity. Trailer rims have max weight limits marked on them as well. My IRS axles where made with a max 1000kg each. With two this gives a load sharing combination of two ton. Be careful with the steel that is pre galvanized tube, as some of the steel is only galvanized on the outside. I have been caught out by this before. To get a good weld you will need to grind the gal off, but it is not as long lasting a finish compared to hot dipped galvanizing that coats the inside and outside, as well as the welds. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz_brett Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Hey guys Just read through this thread once again. Something clicked (about a week after reading it the first time) the brakes required above 750KG is not limited by the trailer thats the limit on (I Think) all towing vehicles. I just checked the specs on a Nissan Patrol and its the same as my Falcon.... "maximum towing without brakes is 750KG" . although with brakes the falcon is only good for 2.3tonne and the Patrol is 3.2 tonne Yarraone I suggest you check your towing capacity of your car youve already had more then your share of bad luck! Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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