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outboard motor problems


brendon19

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Ok just had another look at it and was told by someone to take a plug lead off and see how it runs i took the top of first and it ran ok then put the top one back on and took the bottom off an it ran like crap could that mean it is the top coil pack?

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OK so replaced the top coil did not make a diffrence swaped it to the bottom still no change so thinking it is the power pack .?

Rang a marina today and he said it might be fuel he said to pump the primer once it gets on the plane to see if it changes anything still nothing. they offered to have a look but at $100 hour was a bit expensive rang a local mobile mechanic and he only wants $80 hour so im getting him to come have a look tuesday or wednesday next week as he said he is out my way so will see what he says.

Edited by brendon19
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  • 2 weeks later...

The multi meter is great if you get a good one and know. how to use it. power packs or capacitors pump huge voltage low current and can be hard to measure. leads and plugs often only show issue at certain revs and load, and as such very hard to diagnose by yourself with a cheap meter.

replace the cheap and easy parts and if no luck wait for the pro to sort it out.

Nothing worse than an unreliable donk when out on the water.

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Have you replaced the leads yet?

The problem with asking mechanical problems on a fishing based site is that while people are going out of there way to offer advice a lot of it will be wrong,people think that every fault is the same as a fault that they had many years ago on a different machine.No disrespect to the people who are trying to help out though.

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Have you replaced the leads yet?

The problem with asking mechanical problems on a fishing based site is that while people are going out of there way to offer advice a lot of it will be wrong,people think that every fault is the same as a fault that they had many years ago on a different machine.No disrespect to the people who are trying to help out though.

Yes i changed the leads did not change a thing.Yeah i know what your saying.

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Have you replaced the leads yet?

The problem with asking mechanical problems on a fishing based site is that while people are going out of there way to offer advice a lot of it will be wrong,people think that every fault is the same as a fault that they had many years ago on a different machine.No disrespect to the people who are trying to help out though.

Your spot on there mate, but the fun part of this sort of thing is feeding your ego if you can figure it out before anyone else. problem is having been on the other end of wrong but well intentioned advice is it can get quite expensive and frustrating.

being a curious cat I need to know how things work or why they don't.

That video is an eye opener it is pretty harsh the way it cuts in and out.

Hanging out to know what the pro says.

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Ok so took it to the mechanic today they checked the compression it was at 145psi each cylinder. They then put a test prop on and put it in the test tank it was missing like i told them they then said it was a air leak at the fuel tank sucking air changed the tank and it seemed to go away. Will take it for a spin on friday to see if it fixed fingers crossed.

The marine mechanic i took it too i would very recomnend them

Edited by brendon19
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Mate, in my humble opinion fuel issues usually result in a slow fairly smooth loss of power or cough.

That video shows a motor cutting in and out in a very harsh way.

Silly question are the coils connected to the correct cyclinder, and is it possible the timing is that far out it is causing pre ignition..

Hope you have some luck with this soon.

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Thanks flickn Mad After replacing the fuel tank and fitting i have ruled out fuel and know thinking it is elecrical the only electronics that are under the hood are the coils have replaced them still the same problem. The power pack and stator

Yes the coils are connected the the right cylinder and the timing is fine

dont think it is the coils as it will start and run fine at idle even after sitting a week and with no choke it is just when you go over quarter throttle it starts missing. dont wont to go out and buy a new power pack as they are expensive and if it does not fix the problem im out of pocket $220 for something i did not need

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Brendan I have one of those 1982 35HP Evinrudes on the back of my old Savage Avalon. it coughs and cuts when cold and thats normal. Recently I had a lot of trouble with it running erratically. Turned out to be the old fuel hose from tank to engine.

The damn thing wasn't very old, maybe 30 years, maybe a bit less, but it was so stiff it was letting air into the union where it connected to the engine. Don't rule out a fuel issue so quickly.

1. You could have an obstructed fuel screen - Starboard side, undo the knurled knob where the fuel hoses are and lift off the cover. Clean screen inspect gasket surface and refit. Check all the internal fuel hoses for cracks and missing clamps or broken cable ties (used instead of clamps).

2. Because it runs and only misses every few second, not constantly, I suspect fuel issues and not ignition. The carby is dead simple to pull down, clean and reassemble. If its been sitting for a long while then you could have a sticky float valve that isn't opening enough to fill the carby bowl. Check bowl for sediment or gunk. Clean everything with a good quality carby cleaner.

3. The main jets are easy to remove and clean with a fine wire and carby cleaner. Likewise the idle jets are easy to clean out.

4. Replace damaged gaskets. Most dealers or wreckers can get them.

5. After reassembling and installing, screw the low speed idle screw in until it just seats, the back it out 1.5 turns (this is from memory). This jet aids the mixture from idle up to around 2000. Fiddle with it to get the idle right. By the way the idle speed screw is on the port side of the motor where the remote control cable connects.

6. Last of all it could be the fuel pump diaphragm. The fuel screen of point 1 sits on the fuel pump. Remove it, disassemble carefully and look for holes in the diaphragm. Replace with a rebuild kit if necessary.

Hope this helps.

Edited by Testlab
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You really cleaned that carby thoroughly or you just gave it a rinse and a shake?

OK... Let's look elsewhere. I don't think it's the stator coils and let's not go there yet. Instead let's KISS it and check the wiring that comes from under the flywheel, running into the harness that goes to the remote key switch. Check the wiring hasn't cracked and intermittently shorting to the engine.

There is also a connector going to the coils on top of the cylinders. Check it isn't dirty, wet or the wiring insulation cracked.

Where are you?

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Yes i really cleaned the carby good a full tin of carby cleaner and reset the carby float and checked the main jets.

Yes i also checked the wires coming from the flywheel they all seem good.

also checked the harness that goes to the key i even disconnected it and still the same so i have ruled a couple of things out

When i got the boat i had to completly rewire the harness under the hood and had the wiring diagram so i know thats all right

Im located at toronto nsw

Edited by brendon19
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  • 3 weeks later...

Only thought to check because i already checked everything else and when someone on another site and a local mechanic said it could be the clutch dog in the gear box. I Stripped the gear box down and the clutch dog edges were rounded and same on the gears.The replacement engine came with a spare gear box and it had the same problem but the clutch dog was round over alot more than mine where so that made me feel good knowing that it was the cause of the skip all along.

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