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Knife sharpeners


brad_tate

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Hi Raiders, I am looking for a decent quality knife sharpener, and was thinking about getting a Nirey KE3000 unit. Has anyone had any experience with the Nirey range or alternatives they would like to share?

I have always sharpened with an aluminium oxide stone, with pretty good results, but my knife angles are probably a little variable. I have been trying to teach myself to use a steel for years, but to be honest I'm still pretty crap!

I also have an el cheapo Ozito sharpening grinder I use when the knives really need the surface recut, and with care it's OK but nothing more. It's also pretty easy to damage them if I am not careful.

The main reason for the sharpener is to get a more consistent angle, avoid damaging knives on the cheapie grinder and save time.

Thanks, Brad

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Edited by Tastee
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I used to just use a stone but lately tried a few others. The Kevlar sharp works well but I've been told they take off a lot of metal and aren't good for your knives in the long term so now just keep that for cheaper knives. I used to have a butcher across the road who used to sharpen mine occasionally so all I needed was to fine tune the edge which is a good option to keep the angle right. I also was told about the Work Sharp knife sharpener which looks the goods but not available in Australia but can be ordered online. http://www.worksharptools.com/knife/featured-products-home-knife/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener.html They do look the goods but would like to see one first before spending that amount of cash.

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Best method I've found so far amd had recommended to me by the bloke who does my kitchen knives etc is to set create your edge with either a belt style or stone (if you're good) and then only use a very very smooth steel. Stay away from those evil ceramic ones and anything that feels like it ls removing metal, once the edge is created you're only really putting the bur back in line, by doin this you keep a much better edge for longer and once in a while re hone the edge. Been looking into those work sharp ones myself to get that nice convex working edge so.i can just steel them.

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For the past few years, I've been using a Lansky knife sharpening kit with three grades of diamond stone and a jig which maintains a perfect angle each stroke. It's not very expensive, portable, easy to use and works a treat. Good luck..

Dave

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I Have the Ken Onion Worksharp tool. Great tool. The Ken Onion edition uses wider belts has variable speed and a heavier duty motor. It is available in Aus - try ebay but do not buy from the US as they are 110V, 60 Hz not 240V, 50 Hz.

Great range of belts and very easy to get a great edge using the angle guides on the machine. Not cheap but very good.

Cheers

Adrian

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Hi Tastee, I have a Nirey KE-198 which is a lower model and set me back about $160 from memory.

Most of my knifes are Global and some cheap Wiltshire ones as well. The machine does a fantastic job on all of them and is very good at putting a consistent angle on the blade. The knives hold their edge quite well and usually only need a Stage 2 polish to keep them in good order.

I have two complaints about the Nirey machine, they are quite noisy and my family keeps borrowing it to do their knives. Otherwise they are a great investment.

David

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I've used the Lanskey system and whilst they are great its a bit too much effort for me.

There was a comment about ceramics but I beg to differ I now use a Japanese Yaxell ceramic pull through and its a cracker. Easy to use, not too expensive and works a treat.

Dave

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ive tried heaps of sharpeners, but what finally worked for me was learning how to use a whetstone properly. its actually really easy

this guy is pretty hardcore, but he shows you the best and easiest technique. none of this figure 8 rubbish, just simple up and back. keep the angle constant and start slow till you pick it up

all you need is a 400/1000 grit double sided stone - about 40 bucks from practically everywhere

forget the strop or the 4000 grit unless your OCD

if your knife is really blunt start with the 400

if its just needs a touchup use the 1000 grit and his "slicing the water off the stone" finishing move. takes a minute to bring a knife back to sharp

Edited by bennoz
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Oilstone (whetstone), steel and a lot of patience and practice. You really don't need to put a razor's edge on your blade. Just something akin to a scalpel. In other words, your blade should be able to cut through the skin and flesh of your bait / catch without tearing it. After that, it should be a matter of cleaning the blade and a touch up on the steel when you feel like it losing that "edge". Fresh pillies are a good practice fish for checking your knife's edge.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi Raiders,

I ended up buying the Nirey KE-3000 a couple of weeks ago and it arrived last week. I didn't have much time last weekend but was able to go through the doco, watch the video again and try it out on my main kitchen knives with the Medium grit belts, after a practice on my old gardening knife. Nirey recommend using the Medium belts for the first sharpen of all but fine knives to establish the edge - after that use the fine belts.

Overall very impressed. All five knives came up well. The kitchen knives are Mundial ones - bottom of their range so ok but not great. Certainly better than cheapies. Easy to use (after taking the time to read, watch and practice) and the edge is very clean and consistent. The better half is very impressed too. The finish is very, very smooth - much better than any previous grinding wheel attempts and as smooth as what I achieve using an aluminium oxide stone (but with a better angle and length of edge).

I'll finish my first run this weekend, which will include my finer knives (incl filleting) using the fine wheel.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited by Tastee
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  • 1 year later...

Me free hand sharpening my fillet knife using a oil stone in real time filmed today.It's all about keeping the angles you set at the beginning throughout the motion.

  Learn this basic skill and you will be able to sharpen your knives,tools etc anywhere.

 

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OK here's a tip that I learnt many years ago, for initial sharpening a stone is preferred but once you have the edge on the knife the trick is to keep it there, steels are good but you don't always have a steel handy at the cleaning table, you generally have your vehicle close by ( those without a car, sorry ) so you always have a fine sharpening tool at your disposal. Wind a window half way down and use the top of the glass to hone your blade, you do need to know how to keep the right angle etc but the top of an auto glass is about the best tool for a perfectly sharp knife, and keep the sharp knife away from bone, a boning knife doesn't need to be super sharp, have 2 knives handy for this purpose.

Frank

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  • 11 months later...

Bought a Nirey 198 electric sharpener the other day after many attempts with stones . So simple to use and gives a brilliant edge. Cost was $200 from the kitchen shop. Do yourself a favor. These units are great and worth the bucks.?

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My knife sharpening jig.  Has 3 blade angle settings. Takes a standard bunnings or disposal store sharpening stone - preferably coarse and fine grit. 

Cost:

$10 Grind stone

$0  Junk offcut stud

$0  Junk offcut ply riser

$0  Junk alloy curtain rod offcut

$2  Scraper blade holder

$1  8 screws assorted sizes

$0  Labour:  to drill the blade holder, hole saw the guide holes and screw the jig together (but it took 2 beers !!!)

===

$13

Not taking anything away from the electric gizomos but seriously guys if these types of jigs work for the Japanese Katana swords, I think they do just fine for my fishing knives (and since I built it and Mrs has seen it, I can confirm they also work fine for the kitchen knives).

Cheers

Zoran

IMG_7905.JPG

  • Like 3
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4 hours ago, zmk1962 said:

My knife sharpening jig.  Has 3 blade angle settings. Takes a standard bunnings or disposal store sharpening stone - preferably coarse and fine grit. 

Cost:

$10 Grind stone

$0  Junk offcut stud

$0  Junk offcut ply riser

$0  Junk alloy curtain rod offcut

$2  Scraper blade holder

$1  8 screws assorted sizes

$0  Labour:  to drill the blade holder, hole saw the guide holes and screw the jig together (but it took 2 beers !!!)

===

$13

Not taking anything away from the electric gizomos but seriously guys if these types of jigs work for the Japanese Katana swords, I think they do just fine for my fishing knives (and since I built it and Mrs has seen it, I can confirm they also work fine for the kitchen knives).

Cheers

Zoran

IMG_7905.JPG

Good stuff Zoran.They work a treat don't they?The commercial  ones sell for a couple hundred bucks and if your anything like me I prefer the coin in my pocket than someone else's.

Hope you put it to good use.

Cheers.

Just make sure you keep up the hand sharpening too to stay in practice.

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Just depends mate. The hooks on my lures get inspected and if serviceable get a touch up with the stone. Same for my deep drop rigs for Browns. These hooks tend to be bigger and meatier - more metal.

However I find the smaller hooks that I use for bait fishing generally start to rust out so not really worth sharpening and they get tossed. I prefer to NOT use stainless hooks for bait fishing (bream flatties snapper etc) as these hooks don’t rust out if bitten off. 

Cheers Z

  • Thanks 1
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