jimg1au

LIVE BAIT TANK PUMP

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HI

need to fit a small live bait tank in my 4.5mtr quintrex fish raider have a plactic drum and lid of about 30-40 ltrs

what is the best way to airate the water i realy dont want to have a recirculating water system in and out of the boat

thanks

jim

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i would have to build a stand to sit it on to allow the water to drain and also the po mounted the burley bucket above the place were the live bait pump and scoop mount.my last boat had a stand for the bait tanks kicked my feet on it all the time.a shop have a rule aerator pump its 79.00 are these better than the battery powered ones with a stone on the end of a tube

jim

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If you sit the tank on the floor can you plumb and outlet from the tank through the transom whilst maintaining a decline? Alternatively can you mount the tank aft of the transom near thenoutboard somehow? All aerators are crap on a boat IMO

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Pumping clean water really is the best as it keeps the bait in top condition, this is how I set mine up in a small boat with less room than your quitrex.

 

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Imo quintrex make the best live bait tanks...!

it might cost a tad more than a bucket, but well worth the investment, since you get an ergonomic bait board too.

image.jpeg

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On 2017-6-21 at 3:33 PM, flatheadluke said:

If you sit the tank on the floor can you plumb and outlet from the tank through the transom whilst maintaining a decline? Alternatively can you mount the tank aft of the transom near thenoutboard somehow? All aerators are crap on a boat IMO

100%- waste of time- recirc is the only way to go

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jimg1au,

Some thoughts regarding your questions:

1) Battery aerator vs wired: I'd go for wired. Those C and D size battery's  are not cheap, they drain and need replacement, batteries get forgotten in the gear and leak ruining the terminals and equipment...generally are a pain in my experience.

2) Aerator vs Recirculating: I'd go for recirculating every time. I understand you've had some negative experiences with recirculating systems - I've had many until I cracked the equation for my boat. Yes to keep your bait live and sprightly, you need to give them oxygen and an aerator will do that, but you also have to figure out how to keep the water fresh (ie. how to get rid of the slime, bait and crap the fish regurgitate) as well as how to keep them at the temperature of the water they have come from or are going into - overheating and thermal shock will kill them or stun them. So in my experience aerators do only part of the job. If you set up a recirculating system so water goes in the bottom, you will have fresh water as the crap flushes out the top, the fish are getting oxygen, they are kept at the right temperature etc.  The trick is to figure out how to do this with minimums  - minimum drilling, minimum effort, minimum cost.

Suggest you post a few shots of your 4.5m quinnie stern area, the burley bucket area (think you said its fouling the mount) and also give us your transom height -- I'm sure you'd get a few constructive ideas... there is a lot of talent on this forum.

Cheers

Zoran

 

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I would go for the plumbed bait tank. Fresh water is always best to stop the toxins building up in the water in either a liver bait of catch tank.

I have a transom mounted bait tank that is fed by a 70psi, 20 l/min pump.

There is a T connector that also feeds to a hose that I use for a deck/raw water wash down.

Dual purpose and no need for two pumps.

After having a deck wash. Will never go back........

 

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Like previously stated.

id go a small recirculating bilge pump over  airater.

bilge pump will refresh the tanks and keep lives healthy and energetic.

ive got 2 tanks 1 beside the battery/life jacket compartment , and a transom mounted rod holder bait board.

and ive got 2 pumps  1 per tank.

both on opposite side to burley pot so the burley dosent fowl the tanks.

ive always had drama,s with airater,s only.

 

IMG_1132.PNG

Edited by Trailcraft43

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Is it possible to get a live bait tank with water pump that is completely removable and doesnt require drilling holes? 

I'm thinking something like this, with the pump mounted on the side of the tank, plugged into a 12V outlet or aligator clipped onto a motorbike battery.  Obviously it wouldnt run while I'm motoring, but once at my destination just throw the hoses over the side and voila.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/65L-Live-bait-tank-acrylic-lid-800-GPH-water-scoop-1-5mt-hose-/302177098539?hash=item465b289b2b:g:SYsAAOSwo4pYYK9R

 

- or am I dreaming?

Edited by Smasher

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7 hours ago, Smasher said:

Is it possible to get a live bait tank with water pump that is completely removable and doesnt require drilling holes? 

I'm thinking something like this, with the pump mounted on the side of the tank, plugged into a 12V outlet or aligator clipped onto a motorbike battery.  Obviously it wouldnt run while I'm motoring, but once at my destination just throw the hoses over the side and voila.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/65L-Live-bait-tank-acrylic-lid-800-GPH-water-scoop-1-5mt-hose-/302177098539?hash=item465b289b2b:g:SYsAAOSwo4pYYK9R

 

- or am I dreaming?

The only holes for my last bait tank were two for the pump bracket.   The pump needs to be in the water to prime. 

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17 hours ago, Smasher said:

Is it possible to get a live bait tank with water pump that is completely removable and doesnt require drilling holes? 

I'm thinking something like this, with the pump mounted on the side of the tank, plugged into a 12V outlet or aligator clipped onto a motorbike battery.  Obviously it wouldnt run while I'm motoring, but once at my destination just throw the hoses over the side and voila.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/65L-Live-bait-tank-acrylic-lid-800-GPH-water-scoop-1-5mt-hose-/302177098539?hash=item465b289b2b:g:SYsAAOSwo4pYYK9R

 

- or am I dreaming?

Yes you can have a pump based LB tank without drilling hole through the transom. You have to position the tank, however, so that the outlet at the top of the tank declines (water doesn't flow uphill too well). So unless you want to fill the boat full of water that means mounting the tank aft of the transom near the outboard or up high so the outlet can connect to a declining hose that clear the top of the transom. 

The ebay link is a through transom set up, that scoop you'll need to drill holes through the transom to attach as a minimum. 

 

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19 hours ago, Smasher said:

Is it possible to get a live bait tank with water pump that is completely removable and doesnt require drilling holes? 

I'm thinking something like this, with the pump mounted on the side of the tank, plugged into a 12V outlet or aligator clipped onto a motorbike battery.  Obviously it wouldnt run while I'm motoring, but once at my destination just throw the hoses over the side and voila.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/65L-Live-bait-tank-acrylic-lid-800-GPH-water-scoop-1-5mt-hose-/302177098539?hash=item465b289b2b:g:SYsAAOSwo4pYYK9R

 

- or am I dreaming?

Maybe post some pics of your boat and we might be able to suggest some options.

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Thanks guys, i'll snap some pics of the boat over the weekend.  Mounting it up high for drainage makes sense. 

One other alternative I've been thinking of is having two identical pumps, mounted inside a 55L esky (already have a spare one) on the opposite sides . Inflow and outflow hoses could come up through the lid and then be tossed over the side (tethered together and weighted at the end to keep them in the sea). 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Practical-Low-Consumption-DC12V-500MA-Motor-Submersible-Circulation-Water-Pump-/232342450946?hash=item3618b07302:g:nREAAOSwNnRYhCVN

That will draw 1amp of current, so a 12ah motorbike battery strapped to the side in a box will theorectically run it up to 12 hours.

Edited by Smasher

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16 hours ago, Smasher said:

Thanks guys, i'll snap some pics of the boat over the weekend.  Mounting it up high for drainage makes sense. 

One other alternative I've been thinking of is having two identical pumps, mounted inside a 55L esky (already have a spare one) on the opposite sides . Inflow and outflow hoses could come up through the lid and then be tossed over the side (tethered together and weighted at the end to keep them in the sea). 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Practical-Low-Consumption-DC12V-500MA-Motor-Submersible-Circulation-Water-Pump-/232342450946?hash=item3618b07302:g:nREAAOSwNnRYhCVN

That will draw 1amp of current, so a 12ah motorbike battery strapped to the side in a box will theorectically run it up to 12 hours.

Buy this in the 360GPH

http://www.a shop.com.au/Product/Rule-Bilge-Pumps/124206

and this

http://www.a shop.com.au/Product/Bilge-Pump-Water-Scoop/224453

sikaflex, 2 small stainless screws to attach pump to scoop, two larger marine stainless screws to attach scoop to transom then buy this 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-25mm-x-5m-reinforced-pressure-hose_p4920243

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-17-32mm-stainless-steel-hose-clamp_p4920193

Then you'll need three of these, one for your inlet hose and two outlets. You can attach these to your chosen tank like and esky or similiar

https://www.bunnings.com.au/philmac-1-1-4-tank-outlet_p4814053

Then you'll need some of the adapters to connect the outlet to the hoses. You'll also need a one way valve to stop the inlet draining the tank. Also a good idea to buy a ball valve to isolate the inlet if you won't be using the LBT.

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5 hours ago, flatheadluke said:

Buy this in the 360GPH

http://www.a shop.com.au/Product/Rule-Bilge-Pumps/124206

and this

http://www.a shop.com.au/Product/Bilge-Pump-Water-Scoop/224453

sikaflex, 2 small stainless screws to attach pump to scoop, two larger marine stainless screws to attach scoop to transom then buy this 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-25mm-x-5m-reinforced-pressure-hose_p4920243

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-17-32mm-stainless-steel-hose-clamp_p4920193

Then you'll need three of these, one for your inlet hose and two outlets. You can attach these to your chosen tank like and esky or similiar

https://www.bunnings.com.au/philmac-1-1-4-tank-outlet_p4814053

Then you'll need some of the adapters to connect the outlet to the hoses. You'll also need a one way valve to stop the inlet draining the tank. Also a good idea to buy a ball valve to isolate the inlet if you won't be using the LBT.

Good advise flathead Luke.   I used the cheaper hose on my last boat with the external pump set up and didn't use a clamp at the tank so it was easier to remove and I could use it to wash my baitboard.    The new boat with through hull set up came from Stacer with the cheap hose, I didn't like the idea it might split so I changed it for the reinforced type you suggest.  

The outlet needs to be a bigger diameter than the inlet and maybe some flow control on the inlet side of its filling too quick.

The last boat with an external 360gph rule pump was still going after 10 years.   The new boat with an internal Johnson 500gph pump has used three pumps in theee years.   So I have just changed the i a rule pump hoping that lasts better.

 

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1 hour ago, Welster said:

Good advise flathead Luke.   I used the cheaper hose on my last boat with the external pump set up and didn't use a clamp at the tank so it was easier to remove and I could use it to wash my baitboard.    The new boat with through hull set up came from Stacer with the cheap hose, I didn't like the idea it might split so I changed it for the reinforced type you suggest.  

The outlet needs to be a bigger diameter than the inlet and maybe some flow control on the inlet side of its filling too quick.

The last boat with an external 360gph rule pump was still going after 10 years.   The new boat with an internal Johnson 500gph pump has used three pumps in theee years.   So I have just changed the i a rule pump hoping that lasts better.

 

Thanks welster. As you mentioned the outlet needs to be bigger that the inlet. Ideally at least twice the flow. Whilst you could just have a double sized outlet, I opted for two outlets the same size diameter as the inlet. Reason being, lower diameter means the water level can get higher before draining, I did the math for my 32 litre tank it meant I got an extra 11% capacity, meaning an additional 3+ litres of water.

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Ive just glued bilgepumps on the transom before with sikaflex.

make sure both surfaces are clean. And scratch the bilge pump surface up a bit for good adhesion.

tape the pump on with lots of gaffa tape while Leaving a good week to cure.

 

also Ive used a 12v Holden HZ interior light dimmer switch to lower the voltage to overcome the tank filling to fast.

Just turning it up or down to get the right fill to drain timing.

but I still had a larger outlet.

also watch out for yakka,s swimming into the drain hole and blocking the outlet.

if your not watching or your asleep your boat can flood if u haven't got self draining decks.

Edited by Trailcraft43

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53 minutes ago, Trailcraft43 said:

Ive just glued bilgepumps on the transom before with sikaflex.

make sure both surfaces are clean. And scratch the bilge pump surface up a bit for good adhesion.

tape the pump on with lots of gaffa tape while Leaving a good week to cure.

 

also Ive used a 12v Holden HZ interior light dimmer switch to lower the voltage to overcome the tank filling to fast.

Just turning it up or down to get the right fill to drain timing.

but I still had a larger outlet.

also watch out for yakka,s swimming into the drain hole and blocking the outlet.

if your not watching or your asleep your boat can flood if u haven't got self draining decks.

I like the dimmer switch idea to adjust voltage.   But Holden bits seriously!

I use an outlet pipe across the top of the tank with multiple small holes to try to minimise blockages.

There is nothing more frustrating seeing squid swimming at the back of the boat only to realise they came from the tank.

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1 hour ago, Welster said:

There is nothing more frustrating seeing squid swimming at the back of the boat only to realise they came from the tank.

I overcome that by fitting a kitchen sink plug hole and piping fittings as the main drain system.

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