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Prop advise


Dorta

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Hi All,

I'm in need of advice on prop size, I've never don't a WOT and won't be able to due to bent prop fins. It's been 4 weeks and haven't had the time until now and looking forward to getting it sorted for summer.

5-5m Fibreglass Runabout
1992 Yamaha V4 2strok 140hp CETO
Current Prop is 13 1/2 - 19K Alloy?? All 3x fins bent.

Looking at purchasing a used SS prop as an upgrade and I've found 2x.
- SS Yamaha 13 x 19k  for $275 - Seller claim it may be a 13 1/2 but its stamped 13 x 19k
- SS Yamaha 13 1/2 x 19k for $380

My questions would be obviously the price is different between and the first prop being cheaper. Any owner currently running similar/same Outboard and Haul with what size prop? or would the 1/2 in diameter make a difference?

Cheers,
Victor


 

Bent Prop.jpeg

Edited by Dorta
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Your best bet would be to give solas propellers a call with the details of what you had and what max rpm you were getting ( they also have an online prop calculator). They will ask is you are after hole shot, top end speed, carrying heavy loads etc and normally quote you the right prop for your needs first go, free exchange if not. 

I replaced a Suzuki alloy prop with a solas smaller pitch prop also alloy that gave all round better performance on my last boat. I've purchased all kinds of props from solas over the years including 4 blade stainless, three blade stainless and their alloy models, I've found the alloy props they sell to be extremely good and less clunky on gear changes than stainless ( I do a lot of in out gear changes where alloy is kinder on the gearbox ). 

If you get a new looking stainless prop take a look at the prop locks solas sell, I've been using them for a few years after having a $750 4 blade stolen, they also make checking behind the prop for fishing line easier and not needing split pins each time you check.

 

Edited by JonD
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Hi mate. I don’t know how handy you are but I would give it a go at bending back into shape. 

A little heat and 2 hammers is all you need. Or even no heat if you don’t have anything. One hammer to hold behind the crease and one to bend the other side back. It’s not too hard to do at all. You have a good chance of success and don’t have to spend anything. 

You can look it up how to do it or I’ll give it go for you if your not too far away. 

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Bending the  propellor blades back may not fix your problem Dorta.  If you have spun the hub (ie seperated the rubber bushing on the inside of the propeller from the shaft of the engine) then youll need to get that fixed as well.

This is actually designed to save you a more costly repair.  Just imagine that you hit something in the water (such as a log, mud, sand or a rock) and the  prop goes from spinning at high or relatively high rpms to suddenly stopping. If that should happen without a rubber bushing seperating the propellor from the engine you could be up for very expensive repairs to drive gears, internal shafts or bearings.

Sometimes if you have spun the prop you might still have enough friction for  the propellor to move your boat but your hole shot will suffer or you will rev the engine but the boat wont move any faster. And sometimes your boat wont move at all.  Given that you have obviously hit something (because the blades are bent) it would be very wise to check to see that you havent spun the hub and/or damaged the engine/gearbox. Try and turn the prop by hand with the boat in gear (make sure the battery is off or even better disconnected before you do). If it moves , even a tiny bit, youll need to get it checked. 

Steve

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the amount of compression on a 140  wont start if you turn the prop by hand..no need to disconnect battery so long as key is off it wont fire..use a heavy hammer and piece of solid hardwood..start to flatten out bends in prop blades slowly don't hit to hard  take your time..ive done this to allys and stainless..if hub hasn't loosened you will save yourself dollars for ten mins tapping with hammer.rick

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