Jump to content

Wheel bearings and hubs

Omally

By Omally
in Boating

 Share

Recommended Posts

Omally MORWONG

Omally

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys just wondering... My boat trailer has hubs with the discs on them for the brakes, Im going to be changing the bearings and noticed the packs with the hubs and bearings are real cheap but they are the hubs without the discs are the hubs connected to the discs or are they removable? Cheers omally.... Only thing I cleaned up my discs and with the new pads makes a Lil grinding noise I'm hoping it goes away heaps better than what it was... Wouldn't they rust up anyways if not in use I know my rotors on my car sometimes rusts up if not driven.... Is it normal or? 

Edited by Omally
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fab1 YELLOWFIN TUNA

Fab1

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Omally said:

Hi guys just wondering... My boat trailer has hubs with the discs on them for the brakes, Im going to be changing the bearings and noticed the packs with the hubs and bearings are real cheap but they are the hubs without the discs are the hubs connected to the discs or are they removable? Cheers omally 

Those hub/bearing packs your looking at are for unbraked trailers.You can get them for braked trailers to suit yours also.But be aware the bearings generally sold with them are low quality rubbish.I have seen some online with good quality Timken bearings which is what you want.

The hubs for unbraked and braked trailers are machined from a  block of solid steel and the hub is part of the discs(rotors).The only thing removable on hubs is bearings,races,seals and wheel studs.The Main hub is a solid chunk of metal.

A good option is buy the hubs online and fit quality Timken,SKF etc bearings after discarding the cheap bearings that came with the hubs.

Edited by Fab1
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fab1 YELLOWFIN TUNA

Fab1

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Omally said:

Just seen the timken ones only 50 bucks for a set... Cheers thanks for pointing me in the right direction

No Dramas.Remember to clean the oil of the new hubs with brake clean before installation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fab1 YELLOWFIN TUNA

Fab1

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Omally said:

Awww nah my hubs are still good just was thinking for the price May as well get new ones but I'll just get the bearing pack.... Never new that about the oil? What's it do react with the grease 

It contaminates the friction material on your brake pads.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Omally MORWONG

Omally

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK guys in a bit of a pickle with these wheel bearings just doing some research and stuff and stumbled across something saying lm ( Holden bearings) are only rated at 750kgs and Ford sl bearings are rated to 1500.... Does anyone have a preferrance my wheels on them it says they are ht everything's factory so I'm guessing hoping the ht ones are fine?????? Don't know how much my boat weighs looked on rego papers etc??? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jeffb5.8 JEWFISH

jeffb5.8

Posted
Posted (edited)

It gets worse I have Holden stud pattern wheels but run Ford Wheel bearings factory Telwater Trailer.

i pulled mine out and took them to CBC or any bearing place and made sure I got the right type as mine didn’t have any numbers on them.

if your lucky you can pull the original bearings and the number will still be printed on them.

Ford Bearings are

LM12749/10

LM68149/10

 

Tip.

Make sure you also replace the dust / Grease cap if it does not fit nice and tight as that just wrecked a new set of bearings for me after 3 trips the salt water was washing in and out because the grease cap fell out but stayed behind the alloy wheel cap.

Edited by jeffb5.8
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Omally MORWONG

Omally

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 minutes ago, jeffb5.8 said:

90% sure a brakes trailer will have Ford Bearing but best to check the numbers or buy both and just return the set u don’t use.

Yeah no worries I'll pull it apart and see if I can get any clues... And they aren't electric brakes just the brakes for when it's stationary... Just a pain in the butt as I'll be getting  them off ebay... I'll check supacheap and see if they stock quality bearings 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sigma WHITING

Sigma

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Omally said:

Yeah no worries I'll pull it apart and see if I can get any clues... And they aren't electric brakes just the brakes for when it's stationary... Just a pain in the butt as I'll be getting  them off ebay... I'll check supacheap and see if they stock quality bearings 

I did my discs, pads and bearings as well as changed the steel cable a little  while ago and bought Timken bearings from Supercheap.

They do have some other el-cheapo brand but Timken wasn't that much more.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sigma WHITING

Sigma

Posted
Posted

Check this out omally.

The king of the workshop (Fab1?) helped me out when I was doing mine and there is a lot of useful info on sizes, types, model numbers, etc..... that I found really helpful.

Hope it helps....

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bjc PILCHARD

Bjc

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

i've been enjoying this forum for the last few months and have taken on quite a few tips as we regularly fish around Sydney (mostly Pittwater) out of our explorer trophy.

i thought I might throw my 2 cents in here in this topic, as I currently work for a trailer parts supplier and have gone through a bit of a trial by fire as were regarding bearings etc. 

the easiest way to work out which bearing you have is to check your axle.

if it's round 39mm (mostly, but not always unbraked) then you use Holden bearings.

if the axle is square, either 40mm or 45mm then they"ll be ford bearings.i would guess these 3 axle types would be 99% of the boat trailer market

The type of bearing you use doesn't relate to the type of stud pattern you have .

also , just a comment regarding the suggestion about using Japanese bearings. I have come across this comment a couple of times, most often west of the dividing range, but never in Sydney. I asked a major boat trailer manufacturer in Sydney about this. His comment was, that in his almost 20 years of manufacturing he had never used a Japanese bearing, and more importantly, NEVER had a bearing failure on one of his trailers. He is  a very fastidious and meticulous manufacturer and believes that as long as the bearings are greased adequately and correctly, and maintained in good working  order then there won't be a problem. A perceived higher quality bearing won't be superior if poorly greased or maintained.

Cheers

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fab1 YELLOWFIN TUNA

Fab1

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, Bjc said:

Hi all,

i've been enjoying this forum for the last few months and have taken on quite a few tips as we regularly fish around Sydney (mostly Pittwater) out of our explorer trophy.

i thought I might throw my 2 cents in here in this topic, as I currently work for a trailer parts supplier and have gone through a bit of a trial by fire as were regarding bearings etc. 

the easiest way to work out which bearing you have is to check your axle.

if it's round 39mm (mostly, but not always unbraked) then you use Holden bearings.

if the axle is square, either 40mm or 45mm then they"ll be ford bearings.i would guess these 3 axle types would be 99% of the boat trailer market

The type of bearing you use doesn't relate to the type of stud pattern you have .

also , just a comment regarding the suggestion about using Japanese bearings. I have come across this comment a couple of times, most often west of the dividing range, but never in Sydney. I asked a major boat trailer manufacturer in Sydney about this. His comment was, that in his almost 20 years of manufacturing he had never used a Japanese bearing, and more importantly, NEVER had a bearing failure on one of his trailers. He is  a very fastidious and meticulous manufacturer and believes that as long as the bearings are greased adequately and correctly, and maintained in good working  order then there won't be a problem. A perceived higher quality bearing won't be superior if poorly greased or maintained.

Cheers

 

 

I think he's pulling your leg.How the heck would he know that none of his trailers he had sold over the last 20yrs with non Japanese bearings hadn't had a bearing failure?You can't compare a quality bearing that has been poorly greased and maintained up against a poorer quality bearing that has as your comparing apples with oranges.Now you lubricate,fit and preload correctly both a "perceived"lower and higher quality  bearing and the higher quality one will have less wear over a given mileage as the machined surfaces are just that much more precise and smooth.Cheap "poorer quality"bearings are ok for the local ramps when your doing slower speeds but when you have Westies like me and others lugging their rigs at 110ks for long trips a quality bearing is superior.You know what kills bearings quicker than anything regardless of quality?Lack of use.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...