Aardvarking

Stradics feel worse after being put back together

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I have already made a thread or two about my Stradic 1000fj which I gave a service before discovering it felt worse afterwards, but after putting in new bearings they haven't helped at all. I am still getting the grindy feeling I was getting before, and it hasn't gotten any better. I have figured out it appears to be rubbing up on the section of the drive shaft which connects it to the worm shaft, but it only does that sometimes and when it doesn't it still grinds.

Where it gets weird is that I decided to pull apart my Stradic 2500fj to compare insides and see if I was doing something wrong. Turns out I wasn't so I put it back together and suddenly the 2500fj was grinding too. I have no idea what would have caused that, considering I opened it up without touching or moving anything, then closed it again.

Does anyone know what could be causing this?

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Mate , did you try to have a look on Alan Tani website? There are plenty of discussions there re Stradics noise - might save you some time for fishing. Let me know if you need a link.

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I've just had another good look, and finally realised what has gone wrong. For god knows what reason the drive gear has rubbed up against the drive shaft, which has stripped tiny pieces of paint of a few of the teeth. I did some extensive testing, and that seems to be what is causing the problem. What I am super mad about is that the 2500fj was working great before I pulled it apart, and now I've broken it too along with my 1000, so now both my reels are out of commission. I'm assuming there's no fixing it, but is it possible to repair the teeth? The damage is extremely minor, seems to be limited to a touch of paint coming off 2 or 3 teeth.

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The teeth of the drive hear has a coating. You might be able to remove it. Otherwise you'll need a new one and that can be supplied by Shimano directly.

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Have a look in our Reel and Tackle Maintenance section on the forum. Above is one done by slinkymalinky. 

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17 hours ago, Aardvarking said:

I have already made a thread or two about my Stradic 1000fj which I gave a service before discovering it felt worse afterwards, but after putting in new bearings they haven't helped at all. I am still getting the grindy feeling I was getting before, and it hasn't gotten any better. I have figured out it appears to be rubbing up on the section of the drive shaft which connects it to the worm shaft, but it only does that sometimes and when it doesn't it still grinds.

Where it gets weird is that I decided to pull apart my Stradic 2500fj to compare insides and see if I was doing something wrong. Turns out I wasn't so I put it back together and suddenly the 2500fj was grinding too. I have no idea what would have caused that, considering I opened it up without touching or moving anything, then closed it again.

Does anyone know what could be causing this?

You need a new gear set. You need to find the cause of the gears rubbing on the shaft before fitting the new set. 

From my experience, Stradics have soft gears and will gradually get grindy and worse with use. 9 times out of 10 it’s worn gears that cause the grinding. 

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Also, the gears are shimmed to get the right clearances. You may have lost or misplaced them when taking apart the reels. That could cause the damage you described. 

 

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Well I figured out what happened and boy do I feel like an idiot. The first time I opened up the reel I took off the  anti-reverse before taking off the handle. I thought if I just held the pinion in place while twisting the handle it would act like the anti reverse so I didn't have to screw all the anti-reverse screws back in place. What it actually was grind the drive gear teeth against the pinion gear, slightly denting both. The reason I didn't realise this is because the dents are so tiny I could barely see them, but were enough to completely ruin both the pinion gear and drive gear.

What I'm really kicking myself about is I did exactly the same thing when opening the 2500, not realising that was the cause of the problem to begin with. So now I have ruined both of my reels, 2 weeks before a week long fishing trip. And to top it all off I bought a brand new set of bearings which are now useless. Do'h!

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Well, I called Shimano and asked about the parts, it's gonna cost me just short of 100 bucks to fix both reels. Thing is, I bought them both used for 160 dollars total, meaning it doesn't make sense to spend so much on a repair. I decided to get some super fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand down any especially bad dings, and it seemed to actually help quite a bit. The reels are still a bit grindy, but are actually pretty useable, so I reckon I might leave them as is and save up for a new reel and relegate my Stradics to squid or bait duty. Also might try using some nail polish to even out any dings I can find when I get the time, which will be an interesting experiment.

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23 minutes ago, Aardvarking said:

Well, I called Shimano and asked about the parts, it's gonna cost me just short of 100 bucks to fix both reels. Thing is, I bought them both used for 160 dollars total, meaning it doesn't make sense to spend so much on a repair. I decided to get some super fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand down any especially bad dings, and it seemed to actually help quite a bit. The reels are still a bit grindy, but are actually pretty useable, so I reckon I might leave them as is and save up for a new reel and relegate my Stradics to squid or bait duty. Also might try using some nail polish to even out any dings I can find when I get the time, which will be an interesting experiment.

 

Now I'm impressed young fella, giving it a go at fixing it yourself rather than get hit with rediculous service costs. It's a pity you hadn't bought it new as that should of fallen under the 10 yr warranty I would of thought.

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2 hours ago, Aardvarking said:

Well, I called Shimano and asked about the parts, it's gonna cost me just short of 100 bucks to fix both reels. Thing is, I bought them both used for 160 dollars total, meaning it doesn't make sense to spend so much on a repair. I decided to get some super fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand down any especially bad dings, and it seemed to actually help quite a bit. The reels are still a bit grindy, but are actually pretty useable, so I reckon I might leave them as is and save up for a new reel and relegate my Stradics to squid or bait duty. Also might try using some nail polish to even out any dings I can find when I get the time, which will be an interesting experiment.

100 bucks for new gears for both reels sounds reasonable. I would order them if it was me. You will have 2 smooth, “new” feeling reels that should stay that way for as long as a brand new reel. 

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I think if the reels were good before the gears got sad and at the moment it is only the gears that are the problem then $50 per reel is pretty cheap to get a reel in new working order. If you continue to use them with something causing grinding or pressure in the gears then it is likely that the this will cause wear elsewhere in the reel and brake other things in time, as well as wearing out the gears as they grind on each other. Is $100 for both reels for them to fix them or just parts, you would have to check the website but  i think it is about $20 per spin reel for them to service them (plus parts). So if it is $100 all up it is only costing you $30 per gear set and they will service the whole reel and sort out any other little niggles that might have occurred when you pulled it apart.

I know it is annoying that it is costing you almost as much to fix them as it did to buy them essentially at the moment you have spent $160 on two reels that you cant use so you need to spend some money to get reels you can use. I think if you get them serviced/fixed for $100-$140 and have two good as new reels then that will be by far the cheapest option and then there is no reason they will not last as long as two brand new reels ($400-$600)

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Just my $0.02

I doubt that above mentioned 'experiments' would be covered under the warranty if there were one. 

I think $50 for new OEM parts per reel seems reasonable for $200+ reels  if the parts restore performance. And the money for new bearings would not be wasted. It is not a bloody Daiwa service costs with Magseals.

I have a few Alvey unfinished "projects" covering with dust - the shipped parts from Alvey will be higher than my cost of the reels.  Even the shipping costs alone would be more than 1/2 of the reel price I paid. Overall it is not expensive to make them work and enjoy them as well, however I am just feeling not right to pay for the parts more than I paid for the reel LOL.  

 

 

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1 hour ago, savit said:

Just my $0.02

I doubt that above mentioned 'experiments' would be covered under the warranty if there were one. 

I think $50 for new OEM parts per reel seems reasonable for $200+ reels  if the parts restore performance. And the money for new bearings would not be wasted. It is not a bloody Daiwa service costs with Magseals.

I have a few Alvey unfinished "projects" covering with dust - the shipped parts from Alvey will be higher than my cost of the reels.  Even the shipping costs alone would be more than 1/2 of the reel price I paid. Overall it is not expensive to make them work and enjoy them as well, however I am just feeling not right to pay for the parts more than I paid for the reel LOL.  

 

 

Wow can't believe how I misunderstood the thread having just gone back over it. Yes you are completely correct $50 is good value. 

For some reason I thought the $100 was for one reel after already paying for a service ? I certainly had that all mixed up. It makes sense now some of the things my kids keep saying about me !!!!!

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Shimano service and spare parts are more than reasonable-which is why i rarely if ever service my own gear (and why i dont buy Diawa reels- rods are a different story) beyond cleaning, oiling and occasionaly greasing- got 15 year old Stradics in very good working order -and very heavily used, dont muck around with it.

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The biggest cause of stuffing reels up when doing self service is to put the handles back on before you put the rotor back on. If you put the handles back on early you are tempted to wind them or they wind with gravity and this is what stuffs the gearing.most reels only achieve the proper fit and tolerance once the rotor is attached and pulls the pinion up hard against the gear casing. I have learnt this the hard way but luckily only on cheaper reels. 

Matt

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2 hours ago, macman said:

The biggest cause of stuffing reels up when doing self service is to put the handles back on before you put the rotor back on. If you put the handles back on early you are tempted to wind them or they wind with gravity and this is what stuffs the gearing.most reels only achieve the proper fit and tolerance once the rotor is attached and pulls the pinion up hard against the gear casing. I have learnt this the hard way but luckily only on cheaper reels. 

Matt

Yep, this is exactly what I did. Good to know that it's definitely what caused it, because at least now I know for next time.

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Don’t feel too bad I’ve done the same thing on a stradic FJ5000. Tried servicing it, broke it and and had to send it to shimano to get fixed. 

Thing is I can pull apart a pfleugar or a penn and reassemble it without trouble. Both reels don’t have anti reverse and the screws aren’t those teeny tiny ones that you can easily drop and lose or round with your microscopic shimano sized screwdrivers.

as others have said $100 for two new stradics is worth it just don’t service them again when they come back. Hopefully you get two seasons out of them before they break and you can then decide if you’ll replace them with shimano or a different brand.

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Oh the other thing with the FJ stradics are the felt washers. They don’t last long, especially if you tangle with a couple of good tunas. I replaced mine with some DIY washers I fashioned out of a plastic coffee cup lid which outlasted the reel (sand got into bearings through that pointless anti reverse and that was the end of that reel).

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