Bearing shell spinning inside hub

[JayGee]

Hi all, 

I just hammered in an outer bearing race (into an integrated hub wheel) and the race is spinable inside the hub - I can turn it with 2 fingers.

Is it likely I got a little too excited with the hammering and the race has stretched the hub? It doesn't make sense to me that this is possible. The last bearing race was snug. 

Is it safe to tow (just a tinnie) like this? What should I do? 

Thanks 

[nnickn]

I doubt you stretched the hub but more likely a bodgie bearing kit. I wouldnt tow with it like that.

What did the hub look like befor you installed the race?

Edited July 17, 2018 by nnickn

[rickmarlin62]

sounds like ones a holden ones a ford

[Fab1]

Did you drive the races all the way home after you where flush with the face of the hub using the hammer?The races should go down an other few mm using a punch until they are fully seated.

A few photos would help us diagnose what you did so we don't  fly blind.

If you can spin the race with 2 fingers like you say you would not have to of hammered it in very hard if at all.

Those hubs are machined out of a solid lump of steel and its almost impossible to damage it's bore hammering a bearing in.

If you did you would find it would be cocked in there and be as tight as a jewish man when its his shout for drinks and find the bore all scored and burred.

I wouldn't drive that out the driveway in that state until the issue is resolved.

I have a post in the workshop on wheel bearings if your not sure what your doing and haven't seen it that may help.

Cheers.

[JayGee]

Thanks for replies everyone. 

The bearing race numbers match, I even took the new one out and put the old one in - both driven all the way in. The old one is spinning inside there now too! I checked with a torch too and there is absolutely no gap - they can't go in further. I'm using the mother of all brass drifts (it's about 20mm wide) and a large block hammer. This is around my 5th time doing bearings so I have a fair idea. 

I have done some more research and loctite make a product just for this problem, additional guides say to use a punch and score the final mounting surface to add some friction can also help. I called the local bearing place and they have a much cheaper loctite alternate - after I pick it up this afternoon I will take some photographs of the problem and the solution for all to see in the future. 

Thanks for the help everyone! 

[Fab1]

16 minutes ago, JayGee said:

Thanks for replies everyone. 

The bearing race numbers match, I even took the new one out and put the old one in - both driven all the way in. The old one is spinning inside there now too! I checked with a torch too and there is absolutely no gap - they can't go in further. I'm using the mother of all brass drifts (it's about 20mm wide) and a large block hammer. This is around my 5th time doing bearings so I have a fair idea. 

I have done some more research and loctite make a product just for this problem, additional guides say to use a punch and score the final mounting surface to add some friction can also help. I called the local bearing place and they have a much cheaper loctite alternate - after I pick it up this afternoon I will take some photographs of the problem and the solution for all to see in the future. 

Thanks for the help everyone! 

Perhaps its time for new hubs.I Wouldn't bother with the loctite unless your broke.New hubs aren't that dear.

[back cruncher]

Hi all...pull the race back out and use a center punch on the hub where the race goes to tighten it all up.

[JayGee]

OK, I completed the job this afternoon. I included a photo of the glue, it's especially for these things. As others have said, I also scored the surface using a punch so that there was more friction between the race and the hub - this worked very well and may have been enough without the glue. But I had the glue anyway so in it went. 

I also realised, (phew!) that when I was driving the race in glue dripped down onto the larger race on the other side - something I'm glad I realised before it set and I'd have to replace the large race again. 

[JayGee]

Sorry couldn't attach photos they were too big. The glue was called 'Cylinlock 844' and the manufacture was Hernon. Red 50ml bottle, green coloured glue. It was just 13bux from my local bearings specialist (the loctite equivalent is around 50 if you can find it) 

Edited July 20, 2018 by JayGee
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