Braid to Mono and the FG Knot

[SydneyIsSkyBlue]

Hi everyone,

I've only recently started getting back into my fishing, was always crazy for it as a kid but never really cared for the tackle side of it all, just wanted to catch fish! But now I'm finding the time to start getting out a little bit more and thought this might be the place to come, as the community and abundance of knowledge on here is always so helpful.

I'm currently in the process of sorting out a new setup for some lighter land-based fishing (squid, bream etc.) and was wondering if someone could help me in understanding the idea of braid to mono (or fluorocarbon)? I've just gone out and purchased a Stradic Ci4 2500 reel and have been doing a lot of reading into braid which seems to be the way to go for the kind of thing I'm setting up for and in particular this FG knot which seems to be the way to attach the two together.

I was hoping that someone could maybe explain the reason why this is done - i.e.: why not just tie the braid straight to the terminal part of the tackle whether that be the hook or squid jig? Is it that the vibrant colour of the braid can spook the fish or is it more from a structural point of view in terms of these lines not tolerating abrasive surfaces etc. as well?

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated!

[Ozzybass]

There are a few reasons for using a leader of mono or fluorocarbon tied to your braid -

1. Its much easier to tie knots to your terminal tackle with mono or FC.
2. Braid is opaque and can be easily seen by the fish.  A length of leader ensures it is less visible than the braid main line.  It can depend on your target - some are very leader-shy (eg. bream) while some are much less so (eg. bass).  I know some bass fishos who just tie their lure on to the braid without a leader of any type, but they are in the minority.  Probably can work well if they're using one lure on an outfit all day, without changing lures.
3. Braid is extremely strong and way ahead on breaking strain to diameter ratio, BUT can break from contact with abrasive surfaces (rocks, barnacles...).  Mono or fc is more abrasion-resistant.
4. Braid is very buoyant as you'll notice with new braid.  Having a leader of fc helps your lure, especially if using very light jigheads, to go under.  On the other hand, if using surface lures, many people recommend using mono & not FC as FC sinks and can impede the action of your surface lure.  My tip: you can get around this and use either mono or FC if you're using one outfit exclusively for surface lures by using a very short length of leader (2ft or less).

As for the FG knot - yes, it is a very popular leader knot and has been for at least the last 3 or 4yrs.  I tried it and I remember casting the whole leader & lure off almost first cast!!  Obviously it is not the knot's fault but my own ineptness in tying the FG knot!  Obviously I didn't do it right and for those people who can tie it properly, they swear by it.  There are many other leader knots that can be used.

Easiest to tie is the double Uni knot.  I can almost do it blindfolded and is the one I use if I have to retie a leader on the water (usually kayak) without glasses on.  Big downside to this knot is that the tag end of the mono faces outwards (in the direction of your cast) and with repeated lurecasting can catch and wear until it breaks.  The best leader knots, like the FG or Slim Beauty, have the tag end of the braid facing "out".  Being much softer, it doesn't catch & wear out easily.

Everything above relates to lure fishing.  If bait fishing with sinkers, swivels, etc, you can tie your braid to the swivel and the mono to it as well.  Big tip - if tying braid to terminal tackle like a hook or swivel like I do when blackfishing (yes, I use braid as my main line for blackfishing!), you have to double the number of wraps in knots like the half blood knot.  This also applies to the double Uni knot for joining leader to braid - the standard number of loops (usually 4) for the mono part and 8 loops for the braid part.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited November 17, 2018 by Ozzybass

[Nolongeramember]

Just to add one more reason.  A small length of mono gives a little bit of give and stretch, which is good. 

[SydneyIsSkyBlue]

Thank you so much for the detail @Ozzybass and also @Hateanchors 

That now makes a lot more sense and may explain why I'm not getting lighter/smaller squid jigs and lures to sink as well. I guess this may be due to the braid being too buoyant?

Is there a generally recommended length of leader that should be tied on to the braid?

[Ozzybass]

Yes, I forgot about the stretch factor.

I doubt it would make that much difference with a squid jig.  I was referring to v light jigheads (less than 1/20th oz).

Leader length - probably people would give a range of answers.   Generally, for bream - long light leaders 2 - 3 times your rod length.  Bass, flathead, most other fish - from 1 - 2m.

[DerekD]

Hi SSIB,

Leader length - from past experience that is a contentious discussion. My short answer is less than 1m so the knot doesn't go through the guides. Now to explain the two reasons for doing so.

When I started over a decade ago I heard the 2 to 3 times rod length guideline. Even with light lines I could feel the knot go through the runners. I was using and still use the double uni on my very light lines (these days with the braid doubled up which makes it stronger than the standard double uni) which is not as slim a profile as the FG knot. I use the FG knot on 10lb braid and heavier. If I can feel the bump it means there is an impact and this is repeated time and time again. A friend of mine was on a mother-ship Queensland fishing charter and was doing a lot of casting that week. He knows my theory on this but let the deckies tie a slim profile knot on a long leader which he used all week with no problem till the last day when one of the inserts in the guide popped out - coincidence? You decide. I met another guy that filed the arm for his bail arm runner because the bulky knot would catch on the way back in. I'm not taking a file to my lovely reels.

Second reason. On the light gear, when I seriously snagged up due to the areas I was fishing more often than knot (pun intended) the line broke at the joiner knot. Oops, there goes 2 to 3 lengths of leader line. Which if you fish Fluorcarbon is not the cheapest of lines.

I honestly think most fish don't care and I catch them with 10cm of leader when I am too lazy to change out and can get one more lure change out of the leader. @Ozzybassreally thoroughly covered the information you should think about but add to that that the braid is a fair bit thinner than the mono so it is already more difficult to see.

BTW - it took me a while to find a method to tie the FG knot that I was actually happy with based on practicality and lack of line wastage. One of the Raiders posted a video where the gentleman gets the line tension required by pinching it between his fingers and then combined this with the Rozito (don't know how to spell it) finish as used by Brigsy of Morningtide fishing on Youtube. Here are the links:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQmUN0L4F6c

 

Now the finish of the knot can be found at a little after five minutes on this link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDip4_e4c0U

 

I struggle a bit on the really fine lines but with 10lb braid or heavier it comes up a treat. Generally my leaders are rated 50% to 100% heavier than my main line.

I've PM'd you my number - call me if you want to discuss further.

Regards,

Derek

Edited November 17, 2018 by DerekD

[antonywardle]

Hi

 

What  I do when I'm chasing flathead off shore is I tie a bead and a snap shackle directly to the braid and then I clip om my leader. This allows me to change my traces when I lose hooks. When I'm inshore, I do something similar except that I have my small ball sinker between a couple of beads and I use a swivel. I tie my long leader to this . Seems to work ok for me. The point of the beads is to stop any damage to the top eye on the rod.

I'm also trying to get better at the FG knot!

 

[kingie chaser]

1 hour ago, DerekD said:

Hi SSIB,

Leader length - from past experience that is a contentious discussion. My short answer is less than 1m so the knot doesn't go through the guides. Now to explain the two reasons for doing so.

When I started over a decade ago I heard the 2 to 3 times rod length guideline. Even with light lines I could feel the knot go through the runners. I was using and still use the double uni on my very light lines (these days with the braid doubled up which makes it stronger than the standard double uni) which is not as slim a profile as the FG knot. I use the FG knot on 10lb braid and heavier. If I can feel the bump it means there is an impact and this is repeated time and time again. A friend of mine was on a mother-ship Queensland fishing charter and was doing a lot of casting that week. He knows my theory on this but let the deckies tie a slim profile knot on a long leader which he used all week with no problem till the last day when one of the inserts in the guide popped out - coincidence? You decide. I met another guy that filed the arm for his bail arm runner because the bulky knot would catch on the way back in. I'm not taking a file to my lovely reels.

Second reason. On the light gear, when I seriously snagged up due to the areas I was fishing more often than knot (pun intended) the line broke at the joiner knot. Oops, there goes 2 to 3 lengths of leader line. Which if you fish Fluorcarbon is not the cheapest of lines.

 

Your right Derek leader length & knots used is a bit of a contentious subject but its good to have debate on the subject as there is always something to learn or sometimes reiterate that your doing the right thing (in your eyes anyway).

 

On leader length for me it purely about the situation, if deepsea fishing I use either a bought wind on leader or I use a long leader tied with an FG knot or a Bimini & Albright, depends on how rough it is & how much time I have to get a line back in the water. In this situation I always have a leader that I have at least 3 or 4 winds onto the real, for me this way it is the thicker mono/FC that will be more abrasion resistant if a big fish decides it wants to go under the boat or tries to take me into bottom structure, 90% of the time I am not casting with this set up or not to far anyway, that's the way I think about it & it suits me.

Inshore fishing using SP's or paternoster rig then a different story again.

I think the FG knot is a cracker & Im even using it on my lite set ups as well for a leader to main line.

 

I watched this episode on TV & thought while humorous did highlight the breaking strains of different knots & if you don't want to watch it all (& you all should really) then skip through to 12 mins for the FG test.

I have had the exact same thing happen to me, the braid actually breaking before the knot failing!

You cant ask for more than that.

Sure I still use things like uni knots & other knots for line to swivel/hook, loop knots for lures etc but the FG is an amazing leader to main line knot.

 

[dirvin21]

16 hours ago, SydneyIsSkyBlue said:

Thank you so much for the detail @Ozzybass and also @Hateanchors 

That now makes a lot more sense and may explain why I'm not getting lighter/smaller squid jigs and lures to sink as well. I guess this may be due to the braid being too buoyant?

Is there a generally recommended length of leader that should be tied on to the braid?

if you're targeting bream at least 2m is preferrable, bream are very aware and cluey

if you're using an FG knot you can safely go longer as it doesn't tend to loosen when wound on the reel like other knots

 

[Nolongeramember]

11 hours ago, DerekD said:

Generally my leaders are rated 50% to 100% heavier than my main line.

Regards,

Derek

Why do you use a leader stronger than your mainline? I have never understood why people do this. 

I always have my leader as the weaker of the 2. 

[DerekD]

2 hours ago, Hateanchors said:

Why do you use a leader stronger than your mainline? I have never understood why people do this. 

I always have my leader as the weaker of the 2. 

Hi @Hateanchors

Excellent question.  I want you to get yourself a beer or beverage of choice and head to the pool room or wherever you do your best thinking.

You and I are probably coming at this from a totally different angle and they would each have their own merits. I will still do my best to convert you to my way of thinking.

I'll use bream gear as a starting point. Line has weight and resistance through the air when you cast or fish in deep water. We are using some ultra-light lures too these days. Generally it is of benefit to go as light as possible on your mainline as it gives you extra casting distance. Fish a 1/8 oz lure on 10lb against me with 4lb and I suspect I will consistently cast further and I'd expect noticeably so. The advantage you have over me is chaff resistance against teeth or rocks. The way for me to get the best of both worlds is to have a short length of leader of say 8lb. A smooth and well set (not locked) drag allows me to protect the main line. That short length of heavier leader gives me a bit more control over the fish when it gets close. You will see the same sort of logic with wind on leaders offshore. When that tuna or marlin is close to the boat a couple of wraps on the reel of the long leader has just doubled the pressure you can put on the fish.

If you are using leader as the weaker of the two what is your real benefit? What is your actual goal? If it is finer than your mainline then I think your main line is too heavy. If it is lighter than your main line then why not run leader material all the way through (loss of feel is one counter argument). So what main line would you use with the 8lb leader?

A friend of mine tried your system one summer when the kings were playing and we saw a couple in the area we were fishing. I told him I'd hook one up for him with his rod and on the second cast I did and passed the rod over to him. He knew his main line well but had to factor his thinking to allow for the lighter leader. When I'd asked him why earlier he pointed out that it was sacrificial and would breakaway first. He was right and promptly lost the fish. If I'd hooked it on my lighter set-up, to this day I am still confident I would have landed that king (they were borderline legal).

Most braid will over-test. That 4lb braid I used in my example is more likely to break at 9 or 10lb on the test bed. If we take actual breaking strain into account I am really fishing say 8lb all the way through. It has been shown time and time again that a knot in fishing lines reduces breaking strength. Your uni/blood knot/etc at the terminal end of the tackle has probably halved your breaking point of the leader so you have lost even more strength your system and for what advantage? If you argue that when you snag up it will breakaway then remember it was already likely to breakaway at that point already (unless you have dirt cheap braid). Having said that when fishing kings a few months ago in deep water I didn't want to lose the very heavy sinkers we were using so I ran down to the sinker then a swivel and had a sacrificial section below this which still had enough strength to fight the fish. In the event of a snag it was most likely to break at the loss of a hook and a bit of line.

Up the other end of the scale with the tuna or marlin - the section of line which will cop the most abuse is the leader. It may rub up against the fishes body or mouth. It will likely come back chaffed or nicked. Again where is your advantage fishing a lighter leader?

I'm looking forward to hearing your additional thoughts on this one.

Regards,

Derek

Edited November 18, 2018 by DerekD

[Nolongeramember]

47 minutes ago, DerekD said:

Hi @Hateanchors

Excellent question.  I want you to get yourself a beer or beverage of choice and head to the pool room or wherever you do your best thinking.

You and I are probably coming at this from a totally different angle and they would each have their own merits. I will still do my best to convert you to my way of thinking.

I'll use bream gear as a starting point. Line has weight and resistance through the air when you cast or fish in deep water. We are using some ultra-light lures too these days. Generally it is of benefit to go as light as possible on your mainline as it gives you extra casting distance. Fish a 1/8 oz lure on 10lb against me with 4lb and I suspect I will consistently cast further and I'd expect noticeably so. The advantage you have over me is chaff resistance against teeth or rocks. The way for me to get the best of both worlds is to have a short length of leader of say 8lb. A smooth and well set (not locked) drag allows me to protect the main line. That short length of heavier leader gives me a bit more control over the fish when it gets close. You will see the same sort of logic with wind on leaders offshore. When that tuna or marlin is close to the boat a couple of wraps on the reel of the long leader has just doubled the pressure you can put on the fish.

If you are using leader as the weaker of the two what is your real benefit? What is your actual goal? If it is finer than your mainline then I think your main line is too heavy. If it is lighter than your main line then why not run leader material all the way through (loss of feel is one counter argument). So what main line would you use with the 8lb leader?

A friend of mine tried your system one summer when the kings were playing and we saw a couple in the area we were fishing. I told him I'd hook one up for him with his rod and on the second cast I did and passed the rod over to him. He knew his main line well but had to factor his thinking to allow for the lighter leader. When I'd asked him why earlier he pointed out that it was sacrificial and would breakaway first. He was right and promptly lost the fish. If I'd hooked it on my lighter set-up, to this day I am still confident I would have landed that king (they were borderline legal).

Most braid will over-test. That 4lb braid I used in my example is more likely to break at 9 or 10lb on the test bed. If we take actual breaking strain into account I am really fishing say 8lb all the way through. It has been shown time and time again that a knot in fishing lines reduces breaking strength. Your uni/blood knot/etc at the terminal end of the tackle has probably halved your breaking point of the leader so you have lost even more strength your system and for what advantage? If you argue that when you snag up it will breakaway then remember it was already likely to breakaway at that point already (unless you have dirt cheap braid). Having said that when fishing kings a few months ago in deep water I didn't want to lose the very heavy sinkers we were using so I ran down to the sinker then a swivel and had a sacrificial section below this which still had enough strength to fight the fish. In the event of a snag it was most likely to break at the loss of a hook and a bit of line.

Up the other end of the scale with the tuna or marlin - the section of line which will cop the most abuse is the leader. It may rub up against the fishes body or mouth. It will likely come back chaffed or nicked. Again where is your advantage fishing a lighter leader?

I'm looking forward to hearing your additional thoughts on this one.

Regards,

Derek

Hi Derek. Well I’ll try to explain why I prefer to have my leader as the weakest link in my line. 

I’m not talking braid v mono and the (made up) lb numbers manufacturers call them. I mean actual strengths and that my leader is always weaker (by my testing) than the main line. When pulling on the whole line, the leader snaps, not the main line. 

We all know that that the lighter line catches the most fish and the leader line is what the fish sees most.

So just say you and I have a rod each. Both our lines break at 6lb by test. My leader is thinner than yours and snaps at 6lb. Your leader is larger than mine so doesn’t snap but your mainline is the weaker so that snaps at 6lb instead. 

We both then have the exact same pulling power on a fish before a break off. My advantage is I have a better chance of catching a fish as my leader is the thinner. 

Also, when you want to break off a snag, the leader breaks not the main line. 

From your story about your friend. Other things being equal, I can’t see how your lighter line would have landed the King when your friends stronger line snapped.

If your friend has a leader that snaps at 8lb and his main line snaps at 10lb and you have the opposite, both rigs are going to snap at the same pressure. I don’t see anyone having a pulling power advantage. But you said your rig was lighter than his so I can’t see how you are confident you would have landed the fish on your gear. 

To summerize. You are kind of ripping yourself off with having the leader as the stronger because you could go lower in leader size to match your mainline strength and still have the same “pulling” strength overall. 

[DerekD]

21 minutes ago, Hateanchors said:

I’m not talking braid v mono and the (made up) lb numbers manufacturers call them. I mean actual strengths and that my leader is always weaker (by my testing) than the main line. When pulling on the whole line, the leader snaps, not the main line. 

We all know that that the lighter line catches the most fish and the leader line is what the fish sees most.

Hi again,

Hmmmmm..... Now I'm going to get a chocolate milk and retire to the computer room to do some serious thinking.

The actual strengths through methodical testing is something I haven't factored into my calculations. I do factor in the behaviour of the lines from past experiences and do use the numbers on the box even though I expect there to be a fudge/safety factor.

I'll get back to you on the other stuff when I have a little bit more spare time. Just a quick clarification now - when you are talking about the line snapping do you mean at the knot, in the main line or in the leader?

I do agree with you about the lighter line theory and have had to point out to people that while I might lose more fish than them, if I am hooking more in the first place then I am usually ahead overall at the end of the session.

Regards,

Derek

Edited November 18, 2018 by DerekD

[Nolongeramember]

8 minutes ago, DerekD said:

Hi again,

Hmmmmm..... Now I'm going to get a chocolate milk and retire to the computer room to do some serious thinking.

The actual strengths through methodical testing is something I haven't factored into my calculations. I do factor in the behaviour of the lines from past experiences and do use the numbers on the box even though I expect there to be a fudge/safety factor.

I'll get back to you on the other stuff when I have a little bit more spare time. Just a quick clarification now - when you are talking about the line snapping do you mean at the knot, in the main line or in the leader?

I do agree with you about the lighter line theory and have had to point out to people that while I might lose more fish than them, if I am hooking more in the first place then I am usually ahead overall at the end of the session.

Regards,

Derek

Haha your a funny man Derek. I’ve got you thinking now lol. I like the fact you actually want to think it through some more. 

When I say the line will snap, I mean at the weakest point which will be the knot. So if the leader is weaker than the main line, it snaps at the lure knot (in the rigs I tie that is)

If the main line is the weaker then the rig snaps at the leader knot on the mainline end. 

I do agree with you that the larger leader has better abrasion but you have to draw the line somewhere and compromise. Remember, the lighter the leader the more bites you get. 

[Berleyguts]

Depends on the scenario. A stronger leader (I prefer to say stronger than heavier because breaking strain and wear resistance is what I’m looking for) can be beneficial, particularly in light tackle situations. A stronger leader can provide shock resistance on initial strike and also during  a fight (as DerekD explained). Many fish can be caught on light tackle - 10:1 and 20:1 captures are quite possible. Just ask the ANSA boys and girls! (Check the line class records at https://ansa.com.au/records/).  They consistently catch big fish on light tackle. However, you will find that they generally use a stronger leader than the line class they are fishing. In Sportfishing and Lurecasting divisions, we can use a leader length maximum of 1.5 times the rod length (measured from centre of reel mount to rid tip). The leader is measured from the start of the first knot to the mainline to the bottom end (e.g. last hook) of the rig/lure. In Gamefishing divisions, the combined double/leader length can be up to a maximum of 20ft (6.1m) in line classes up to 20lb (10kg) and up to a maximum of 40ft (12.19m) in line classes over 20lb (10kg), same as in IGFA rules. In Flyfishing divisions, shock tippets can be used.

When you’re chasing big fish on light tackle, you appreciate the stronger leader, I assure you! When you trace a fish, you want the stronger leader! Even when I’m drifting for flathead offshore, the stronger leader allows me to grab it and lift up to 3 fish into the boat by the leader without having to grab the net.

However, in clear water situations, e.g, whiting and bream over sand, sometimes a lighter leader is necessary, or you just won’t get the bite! Also, I sometimes fish a lighter trace on the bottom of a paternoster rig, so if the snapper sinker gets caught on reef, I may only lose the sinker, not the hooks. Trouble is, I usually use a jig in lieu of a sinker, so I usually use a stronger trace so as to try and not lose the jig!

Edited November 18, 2018 by Berleyguts

[kingie chaser]

8 hours ago, Hateanchors said:

Your leader is larger than mine so doesn’t snap but your mainline is the weaker so that snaps at 6lb instead. 

I wont say it wouldn't happen because there could be condition issues of some kind with the main line but the chances of the heavier main braking before the lighter leader line a very slim imo!

The is more chance of a knot failure than anything else.

Your theory of a lighter leader catching more fish is somewhat of a weak argument as if you want to use a specific leader strength then all you need to do is increase the mail line strength, eg you want to use a 6lb leader then then just spool your real with 8lb mail line, but I guess if need be you could then go up in leader strength anyway if you are getting snapped of by something bigger than a light leader can handle.

 

There's no rules or wrongs in fishing, just what is your preference or theory. 

 

[Nolongeramember]

18 minutes ago, kingie chaser said:

I wont say it wouldn't happen because there could be condition issues of some kind with the main line but the chances of the heavier main braking before the lighter leader line a very slim imo!

The is more chance of a knot failure than anything else.

Your theory of a lighter leader catching more fish is somewhat of a weak argument as if you want to use a specific leader strength then all you need to do is increase the mail line strength, eg you want to use a 6lb leader then then just spool your real with 8lb mail line, but I guess if need be you could then go up in leader strength anyway if you are getting snapped of by something bigger than a light leader can handle.

 

There's no rules or wrongs in fishing, just what is your preference or theory. 

 

Your not looking at it this the correct way. I’m saying the heavier main line will NOT snap.  The lighter leader will go first. And yes, at the knot. 

What you are saying about all you have to do is increase the main line strength and then it will be more than the leader you are using is a good point. But then your overall rig strength will be higher as well. This is not what Derek is doing. He’s downsizing his mainline to less than the leader, so the mainline knot is the weakest point. Therefore, using a more stronger leader than the main is a waste because you don’t get the benefit of the full strength of the leader because the mainline will snap first. 

Trust me, it’s not a weak argument of using a lighter leader than the main catches more fish. You just need to understand it. 

The only time I think a heavier leader than the main is good is if you have to have the slightly better abrasion resistance. Otherwise, lighter leader will always be better IMO. 

[kingie chaser]

On ‎11‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 7:16 AM, Hateanchors said:

Your not looking at it this the correct way. I’m saying the heavier main line will NOT snap.  The lighter leader will go first. And yes, at the knot. 

Yes I get what  you are saying now & get your point

But don't forget that if your main line is braid then generally speaking the braid has a breaking strain of up to ( more in some cases) 50%  more than the product label so if your running a slightly heavier leader to main its most likely still less than the braid main line or at least fairly equal.

 

Apart from the reason of abrasion resistance on the heavier mono/FC leader I think its something that is just passed onto you as something you should do, my father was the one who told me to always run a heavier leader so in a lot of cases its how we are taught to fish. 

[frankS]

On ‎11‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 12:31 PM, SydneyIsSkyBlue said:

Hi everyone,

I've only recently started getting back into my fishing, was always crazy for it as a kid but never really cared for the tackle side of it all, just wanted to catch fish! But now I'm finding the time to start getting out a little bit more and thought this might be the place to come, as the community and abundance of knowledge on here is always so helpful.

I'm currently in the process of sorting out a new setup for some lighter land-based fishing (squid, bream etc.) and was wondering if someone could help me in understanding the idea of braid to mono (or fluorocarbon)? I've just gone out and purchased a Stradic Ci4 2500 reel and have been doing a lot of reading into braid which seems to be the way to go for the kind of thing I'm setting up for and in particular this FG knot which seems to be the way to attach the two together.

I was hoping that someone could maybe explain the reason why this is done - i.e.: why not just tie the braid straight to the terminal part of the tackle whether that be the hook or squid jig? Is it that the vibrant colour of the braid can spook the fish or is it more from a structural point of view in terms of these lines not tolerating abrasive surfaces etc. as well?

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated!

Unfortunately this topic has somehow got a bit OFF topic to the original question.

Let me try and explain the reason behind your question.

Many years ago when braid was first introduced into the fishing tackle world, the experts found that braid resinates/vibrates ( don't know which word properly explains it ) . When viewed from under water a braided line will send out a type of looking through smoky glass effect on the down side of the current or drift troll whatever, this the experts say would put the fish off the bite, so they came up with what we now know as fluro carbon line OR leader, fancy name for monofilament with some extras added. Anyway this in turn is the reason ( in the first place ) that fisho's first started using leaders, and developed fancy knots to suit it, weather they be thinner OR thicker than the original line/braid. Over the years both mono and braid have been refined to a point where it has become fashionable to have the ultimate set up on your rod/reel set up and fisho's unfortunately in my opinion have lost the plot some what.

Back in my day well over a 1/2 century when I was in my prime I used straight mono ( usually Maxima green ) straight to the hook with sliding sinker that went all the way to the hook, OR a paternoster with snapper lead and 2/3 dropper loops , I caught fish and plenty of them without all the fancy gear that is used today.

I have become modern in a lot of ways and do use braid on many of my reels for different applications but still basically an old fashioned fisherman with old views. And a lot of old gear.

Hope you read and understand this answer to your question.

Frank

[Sea Ranger]

ok I'll add my 2cents

For the species the OP mentions they are targeting I would suggest the uni to uni knot for the braid to leader ( or trace).  More than ample.  FG if not (lol) tied properly can cause grief where the uni is easy and strong enough.

Fluro vs Mono

Fluro doesn't have the elasticity of mono so it stretches but doesn't spring back as good as mono does.  However why I use Fluro is that for a given rating Fluro is typically thinner in diameter than equivalent mono and heaps harder , stronger against abrasion caused failures.  Fluor is almost invisible underwater as well.  I noticed once that when using 4lb fluro I was catching more squid than my son who was using 4lb mono tied direct no leader.  We tied a fluro leader to his line same as mine and first cast he was in the squid.  Could be coincidence but seemed at the time that the squid certainly could see his mono.  BTW he's converted and runs Fluro leaders now too.

 

Bear

Edited November 20, 2018 by Sea Ranger
fixing things

[Sea Ranger]

Ohh and forgot I always use a lighter leader than my main line.  My old salt friend RIP Jim used to fish only mono and would tie on a heavier leader at the end for abrasion resistance only.  If he spooled the reel entirely with the heavier line he was using for the leader he would not have as much line as using a lighter line with only the leader being a meter or 2 to give him the resistance to abrasion.  Not sure if that was everyone's reasoning but it makes sense.  I don't subscribe to the theory btw.

 

Bear

[frankS]

BTW the resignation the braid puts out also sends a humming type sound through the water which can be measured with instruments and different line thickness sends out different decibels of sound, these sounds are apparently very sensitive to fish , and I assume all lines whatever they are made of would send out some form of vibration sound.

PS I use the FG knot and find I can cast all day long without needing to replace the knot,  just use my own home made quick release clips for changing lures etc.

Frank