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Yamaha gear oil


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On 9/3/2019 at 7:40 PM, Peter Nelson said:

Hi All

Just wondering if anyone uses an alternative oil other then yamalube in the gearcase.

Got a 70h 2 stroke I think around 2006 model. Not sure what viscosity it should be.

Cheers

Ive haerd of people using the quicksilver stuff (mercury) SAE90 I believe it is

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On 9/3/2019 at 7:40 PM, Peter Nelson said:

Hi All

Just wondering if anyone uses an alternative oil other then yamalube in the gearcase.

Got a 70h 2 stroke I think around 2006 model. Not sure what viscosity it should be.

Cheers

This will suit.

A9307358-90A.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Peter Nelson said:

Thanks mate, hopefully I can squirt it in just with the bottle and I don't have to buy a pump 

It's very hard to get it all out using just the bottle, infact it's almost impossible. Buy a pump,look after it and it will serve you well.

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You need to buy an extra bottle to do it buy squeezing the bottle, because you can't squeeze it all out , so you need the extra one, not too sure why you don't use the Yamaha oil if you're worried.

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33 minutes ago, noelm said:

You need to buy an extra bottle to do it buy squeezing the bottle, because you can't squeeze it all out , so you need the extra one, not too sure why you don't use the Yamaha oil if you're worried.

Just looking at alternatives since I can by the penrite around the corner.

As long as it's got the same additives, properties and is cheaper why not I guess

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4 hours ago, Peter Nelson said:

Thanks mate, hopefully I can squirt it in just with the bottle and I don't have to buy a pump 

You can get away with just the one bottle if you have access to air( I use compressed air)and put a small hole in the base of the bottle when you can't manually squeeze anymore by hand and give it a squirt with compressed air to force the fluid into the gearcase.

Another option is filling a large syringe and injecting the oil in .

I've used both methods for various applications and they do work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Peter,

I would stick with the Yamalube. Its GL4 compared to the Penrite which is GL5. I swapped to the penrite and started to notice crunching in the gear box. I drained it and went back to the Yamalube and had no issues. I do have a mid 80's yamaha 2 stroke so the "newer" 2 strokes may be able to handle it.

Bill

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please get pump bottle filler sold by merc or yami lube  with correct thread. and next oil change using any good quality marine outboard gear box oil you can refill origanal bottle so no air bubbels when filling cheers duncv 333

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I understand the reason why they SAY to pump the oil from the bottom but what is wrong if you just put in the specified amount from the top? Surely it would all flow down and any air pockets (if there happens to be any) will disappear as soon as the gearbox starts turning.  

Obviously, if less than the required amount goes in and the top hole is overflowing then you either wait for it to go down or turn the gears until you can add the whole amount.

What about when you tilt the engine all the way up and then back down again? Same thing. 

Edited by Hateanchors
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17 hours ago, Hateanchors said:

I understand the reason why they SAY to pump the oil from the bottom but what is wrong if you just put in the specified amount from the top? Surely it would all flow down and any air pockets (if there happens to be any) will disappear as soon as the gearbox starts turning.  

Obviously, if less than the required amount goes in and the top hole is overflowing then you either wait for it to go down or turn the gears until you can add the whole amount.

What about when you tilt the engine all the way up and then back down again? Same thing. 

As they say there's only one way to find out.Personally I'd keep filling from the bottom drain plug.

 

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17 hours ago, Hateanchors said:

but what is wrong if you just put in the specified amount from the top? Surely it would all flow down and any air pockets (if there happens to be any) will disappear as soon as the gearbox starts turning.  

Obviously, if less than the required amount goes in and the top hole is overflowing then you either wait for it to go down or turn the gears until you can add the whole amount.

Yup... you can do it that way. It just takes longer and is more prone to error as you are trying to fill through a small top hole prone to get airlocks... plus getting rid of the bubbles trapped in the gears that you mentioned previously which would take up space meant to be filled with oil, yes you can turn the gears and wait for the air bubbles to leave via the top hole... but then you'd have to meticulously measure the exact quantity of oil and persevere until you have poured it all in being careful to compensate for any spillage running along the lower leg as you try and get it into that small top hole (from which the displaced air is also trying to escape). 

Much much simpler and quicker to fill from bottom, the rising oil will displace any air, once the oil starts to seep from top hole, you know you are done, screw close the top hole and remove the oil bottle at the bottom - nothing will leak out as you have an air lock - replace bottom screw. Done.

Also, if you are paying someone, mechanics charge by the hour ... which method would you rather they used?

Cheers Zoran

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