Tinny fit out

[Tinny pimp]

Hi All

I just bought myself a Quintrex 350 Dart that i'm pimping out with a full floor and fishing extras. Its a small basic boat but all i need for a fish on Sydney's Port Hacking River; no frills no fuss .

I thought Id share photos of my fit out journey. Its slow going as I only have a few hrs at weekends to work on it but so far ive done the front and back floor foundations and ply fit out (bow and stern)  

Im using Angled aluminum 25x25x3 + aluminum rivets Diam 4.8mm Grip 6.4mm + 9mm marine ply + the other stuff that I'll share only the way. All from Bunnings.

For the motor I managed to find a new Mercury 9.9hp two stroke (would have preferred a 15hp but no new one around due to the new emission laws. Boo) which does the trick nicely, the boat only weights <80KG so it gets up on the plane very quickly and easily.

You can see from the photos Ive cut the Angled aluminum to length and riveted to the seats and adjacent frame (for the back near the transom I used selleys no more nails instead of rivets, I didn’t fancy putting holes in the boat 😉). I then use cardboard as a template to jigsaw the marine ply. Once I have done the center deck I will epoxy the ply to make it water tight and then glue & staple marine carpet on.

[frankS]

Welcome aboard. I will be keeping my eye on this thread for sure, nothing I like more than seeing a boat getting pimped.

Have done several myself mostly old 2nd hand bits of junk but one new boat which turned out fantastic.

Currently building an OLD Brooker 14 footer and just about done.

Keep the progress coming.

Frank

[Guest Guest123456789]

Looks really nice well done mate.

Do you plan on standing on the new floors? If so depending on weight you might pull the rivets through and the Shelley’s no more nails off the transom. Most floor frames are fixed to a rib with vertical supports.

You wont need staples for the marine carpet, Good adhesive applied correctly will permanently fix the carpet to the ply. You then don’t need to worry about zinc staples corroding or worse still falling out and reacting with your hull.

[Rebel]

Welcome aboard.

Great photos and project. Good luck.

[kingie chaser]

Welcome aboard.

Are you also doing between the seats where you could stand & cast on a flat surface??

 

Everyone has their own ideas on how they want to do something like this so this is my experience.

 

I used some cross  members actually attached to the under edge side on marine ply(9 or 12mm,cant remember), that way I can actually pull the whole floor out in need be without anything attached to the interior of the boat

I also used a couple of hardwood 2x4 attached to the floor(not pictured unfortunately) in the shaped of the hull along the centre part for support.

It did add a bit of weight but I am 110kg so if I am going to stand on it it has to be pretty rugged & secure.

I guess as FHL is asking, it all depends on if you want to stand on it or not??

Edited October 8, 2019 by kingie chaser

[Tinny pimp]

3 hours ago, flatheadluke said:

Looks really nice well done mate.

Do you plan on standing on the new floors? If so depending on weight you might pull the rivets through and the Shelley’s no more nails off the transom. Most floor frames are fixed to a rib with vertical supports.

You wont need staples for the marine carpet, Good adhesive applied correctly will permanently fix the carpet to the ply. You then don’t need to worry about zinc staples corroding or worse still falling out and reacting with your hull.

Thanks mate. 
I don’t plan on standing on the front or back only the centre which I’ll be making with vertical supports as you mentioned. 
In the front I cannot see the rivets coming through, they seem fairly solid. I might try standing on it, wish me luck. 

[jeffb5.8]

Love Looking at a boat project,

my old tinnie had a battery box, switch panel for lights, fish finder and tackle storage set into the side  between the two seats.

it was in the opposite side that I sat on when driving which balances the boat.

hatches in the front and rear are good for storing gear like spare rope, water proof containers with tools ext.

i also has strip leds under the seats which gave good light at your feet without killing night vision.

Edited October 13, 2019 by jeffb5.8

[Tinny pimp]

Made the center floor frame over the weekend; lots of hack sawing and riveting. Im very happy with how it turned out, its super strong and level. The space in between the two center struts is 30cm, big enough to add a hatch and create some storage space (fishing tackle box / paddles / beer )

Next step is the flooring

[Green Hornet]

Looks like a fun little project and similar to one I did quite some time ago on a Seejay Nomad.

[Ah Me Ting]

On 10/8/2019 at 7:16 PM, kingie chaser said:

Welcome aboard.

Are you also doing between the seats where you could stand & cast on a flat surface??

 

Everyone has their own ideas on how they want to do something like this so this is my experience.

 

I used some cross  members actually attached to the under edge side on marine ply(9 or 12mm,cant remember), that way I can actually pull the whole floor out in need be without anything attached to the interior of the boat

I also used a couple of hardwood 2x4 attached to the floor(not pictured unfortunately) in the shaped of the hull along the centre part for support.

It did add a bit of weight but I am 110kg so if I am going to stand on it it has to be pretty rugged & secure.

I guess as FHL is asking, it all depends on if you want to stand on it or not??

 

I just started a new thread so we can share our idea's...

It's here:

@kingie chaser ... you wanna repost your's in there too?

 

[Ah Me Ting]

On 10/14/2019 at 10:32 AM, Green Hornet said:

Looks like a fun little project and similar to one I did quite some time ago on a Seejay Nomad.

@Green Hornet have you got any more pics of how you did your floor, etc?

Post 'em up in the new thread I just started, so we don't hijack this thread.

New thread is here:

 

[Green Hornet]

Sorry, no more photos and this boat was sold long ago.

The floor section was 18mm marine ply, carefully cut and simply sat on the ribs. A couple of lengths of 70 x 19 maple were tapered either end, glued and screwed across the underside of the floor to resist excessive flexing.

The casting deck was framed with aluminium angle similar to the OP's mods, but I included a ss piano hinge and a little more framing to provide a hatch for underfloor storage.

[kingie chaser]

10 hours ago, Green Hornet said:

Sorry, no more photos and this boat was sold long ago.

The floor section was 18mm marine ply, carefully cut and simply sat on the ribs. A couple of lengths of 70 x 19 maple were tapered either end, glued and screwed across the underside of the floor to resist excessive flexing.

The casting deck was framed with aluminium angle similar to the OP's mods, but I included a ss piano hinge and a little more framing to provide a hatch for underfloor storage.

Actually I have a question but not about the floor, about the electric motor.

 

Ant reason why you have a rear/transom electric over one on the bow??

 

Im thinking of getting one & wondering which end to put it on?

[Green Hornet]

10 hours ago, kingie chaser said:

Actually I have a question but not about the floor, about the electric motor.

 

Ant reason why you have a rear/transom electric over one on the bow??

 

Im thinking of getting one & wondering which end to put it on?

I've had electric motors long before they became popular and back in the day, they were all transom mount. 

Bow mounts were around when I had this boat, but the reason I had the transom mount was because I used to also run it on a canoe when bass fishing.

In the boat I fished mainly flathead back then and used the electric to slow / control the drift when the wind was up.

I've had both over the years and if its only going on a boat, definitely go for a bow mount. They're far more versatile.

[Guest Guest123456789]

On 10/14/2019 at 8:48 AM, Tinny pimp said:

Made the center floor frame over the weekend; lots of hack sawing and riveting. Im very happy with how it turned out, its super strong and level. The space in between the two center struts is 30cm, big enough to add a hatch and create some storage space (fishing tackle box / paddles / beer )

Next step is the flooring

Awesome job mate well done. Looks like you have a few good potential sections for rod locker storage, i will be adding one to my boat when the floor needs replacing. Rods currently have a habit of getting in the way. 

[frankS]

I was at one stage thinking of mounting a bow mount lecky on the transom, but decided against it. It would be handy on the back to use electric motor to pull off from the bank and also would be very handy to drive boat onto trailer, and would manouver just as well on the transom as the bow but the room it took up on the back was too much so I mounted it on the bow like everyone else.

Kingie I have an old minn kota transom mount 36 lb thrust I could lend you along with a battery  to see if they would be suitable for your boat, certainly would push it along OK.

Frank

Edited October 16, 2019 by frankS
transom not bow

[Tinny pimp]

I had Sunday to finish the flooring off.  It was tricky to get the center floor to fit perfectly; the template works as a good guide but when it come to putting the actual wood in it requires a few adjustments due to the 9mm thickness. The Bunnings marine carpet is also 2mm thick so that was another thing to consider when cutting the wood.

Im pleased with the result.

I just need to add the cleats and rod holders and secure the outboard and im done.

[kingie chaser]

Looking good TP 

[antonywardle]

Looks good! Did you remember to put a bilge pump in now that the floors are covered?

 

[Tinny pimp]

12 hours ago, antonywardle said:

Looks good! Did you remember to put a bilge pump in now that the floors are covered?

 

Ha no, the floors are not fixed & i have no battery so its not mandatory i believe. If I start taking on water i can remove the front or back floors quickly and start bailing. The floors have a pull strap for easy access. Will post a pic later.

[antonywardle]

It will be interesting to see what would happen if you get pulled over.I guess it would depend n the guys interpretation.

 

This is what is says:

Bilge pump(s) – Manual or power operated for vessels with covered bilge(s) or closed under-floor compartments (other than airtight void spaces). Must be capable of draining each compartment.

 

If you put one in, you'll then need a fire extinguisher too.

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

[Guest Guest123456789]

Looks awesome mate well done. So much better than bare, uneven aluminium!

did you waterproof the ply? Not a major issue if you didn’t just means you will need to replace after a couple of seasons.

[Tinny pimp]

On 10/31/2019 at 3:23 AM, flatheadluke said:

Looks awesome mate well done. So much better than bare, uneven aluminium!

did you waterproof the ply? Not a major issue if you didn’t just means you will need to replace after a couple of seasons.

Sealed the wood using this stuff; its excellent but a bit expensive. Could probably use a cheaper varnish from Bunning and get a good result.

[frankS]

I use this stuff and have found it to be quiet good just slap it on with old paint brush taking extra care with any cut edges, dries just like resin , white when brushed on so easy to see where you have done but dries clear. Bunnings and reasonably cheap, I am on my 2nd lot of 4 ltrs and it does heaps. Washes out in water so easy to clean brushes.

 

Frank

[Tinny pimp]

Judging by the dust on the lid 4L lasts a long time 😁